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MikeJT

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Posts posted by MikeJT

  1. I always use a product called "Formula 560 Canopy glue" for any glazing. A Google search should identify online retailers.

     

    I've had excellent results with this - it dries completely clear - you don't even need to panic if a small amount seeps out as you press the glazing into place as it's not visible once dry. It works well when fitting flush glazing to locos and coaching stock.

     

    I'm sure it's a variation of PVA but it does the job!

     

    Mike

  2. Well I'm regretting I didn't read this forum thread earlier!

     

    I placed an order via Osborne's website on 15th November and payment, via Paypal was immediately taken.

    No goods or any further communication has been received!

     

    I've tried phoning - never any reply.

    I've tried repeatedly emailing - again no reply.

     

    I raised the issue through Paypal - no reply to that "dispute" either.

    I've now had to resort to a formal claim through Paypal to recover my money.

     

    I would second what others have said - there is no info on Osborne's website to indicate anything is amiss. This simply isn't good enough and given my experience isn't an isolated one I begin to wonder about the integrity of this retailer!!

     

    Fortunately there are many other retailers in our hobby offering outstanding good service - too many to list here - but I'll be taking my business elsewhere in future and would advise others to do the same.

     

    Mike

     

    • Like 1
    • Agree 2
    • Informative/Useful 4
    • Funny 1
  3. On 23/05/2020 at 09:17, pauliebanger said:

    Hi Mike,

     

    That should be pretty straightforward. ZIMO Swiss Mapping has it covered. I'll use the F keys assigned in the project as the light switch sound is also assigned to these keys

     

    Assuming loco moves in the correct direction, no need to touch CV29 (for this).

     

    Cab light, using Aux 3.

     

    CV442 = 19  (value = number of the operating F key.)

    CV444 = 3    (value =  Function Output or Aux to assign in forward direction)

    CV446 = 3    (value =  Function Output or Aux to assign in rearward direction)

     

    'Shunting' Lamps.

     

    All on one F key:

     

    F key 0 and Function Outputs FOf and FOr are special cases, since using 0 as a value in ZSM means 'nothing assigned', so F key 0 is represented by a value of 29, FOf by 14 and FOr by 15.

     

    You can assign up to two FOs in each direction in ZSM, but you may assign more than one ZSM group to the same F key.

     

    For shunting, we need 4 FOs in each direction operated simultaneously.i.e two ZSM groups:

     

    CV430 = 29

    CV432 = 15

    CV433 = 1

    CV434 = 15

    CV435 = 1

     

    and

     

    CV436 = 29

    CV438 = 14

    CV439 = 2

    CV440 = 14

    CV441 = 2

     

    To avoid F key 19 also operating the red at the front end, you must disable the current assignmentto that key.

     

    CV442 = 0

     

    also, not absolutely necessary but good housekeeping:

     

    CV444 = 0

    CV446 = 0

     

    If I've understood you correctly, that should be it. Shunting lights on F0, Cab light on F10, nothing on F19 except the light switch sound. (you can remove that too if you wish; CV567 = 0).

     

    Best regards,

     

    Paul

    Hi Paul,

     

    Many thanks for taking the trouble to do this.

     

    The shunting lights now operate perfectly on F0.

    I did have a bit of a wobble as the cab light still didn't work. Having studied your instructions I realised the cv assignments at the start of your post (cv442, 444 and 446) had been cancelled out at the end of your post.

     

    I've now set cv442=19, cv444=3 and cv446=3.

    This operates the cab light perfectly on F19 as per the sound project and the marker lights at each end on F0.

     

    I just have the light switch sound on F10 which is fine by me.

     

    Your sound project is fabulous by the way - easily the most impressive I have.

    Add to that the amazing Zimo decoder with its flexibility and I'm a very happy chap!

    Thank you!

     

    Mike

    • Agree 1
  4. I've just installed a Zimo MX648 in a Hornby Class 08 with the excellent sound project from Paul Chetter.

    Alongside this I've fitted an equally excellent lighting kit from "Stickswipe" (via EBay).

     

    Beyond my limited knowledge is getting all the lights to work alongside the comprehensive sounds so I'd appreciate some pointers!

     

    The lights consist of red and white marker lights at each end, plus a cab light.

    I'm not sure which wire is connected to each light as they're sealed within the small circuit boards for each end.

    However:

     

    Cab end = White and green wires

    Radiator end = yellow and purple wires.

     

    I've soldered the cab light to the aux 3 solder pad.

     

    Pressing the following function keys in the sound project produces the following results:

     

    F0 = white marker light illuminated, direction dependant although opposite the physical direction of travel.

     

    F10 = red marker light at the cab end illuminated.

     

    F19 = red marker light at the radiator end illuminated.

     

    None of the function keys activates the cab light currently and all functions seem to be assigned in the comprehensive sound project.

     

    Advice on where to start would be appreciated.

     

    I'm using a NCE Power cab of that has any bearing.

     

    Many thanks,

     

    Mike

  5. 13 hours ago, pauliebanger said:

    HI Mike,

     

    That's great.

     

    Here are the CVs to operate in the way I described yesterday. If you prefer a different arrangement, let me know and I'll give revised CVs.

     

    CV430 = 29
    CV432 = 1

    CV434 = 15

     

    CV436 = 1
    CV438 = 2

    CV440 = 14

     

    Best regards,

     

    Paul

    Worked a treat!

     

    Thank you so much for your help.

    The support you give to so many of us on the RMweb is simply amazing.

     

    Thanks also for the link to your post about the Zimo Swiss Mapping - I found it very interesting and it's certainly something I'll be having a "play" with in future!

     

    Warm regards,

     

    Mike

  6. 2 hours ago, pauliebanger said:

    Mike,

     

    As long as you have the two pairs of marker lamps and two pair of tail lamps separately powered we can map the F keys to give any desired effect. We've got that as each pair is separately controllable, albeit incorrectly at the moment. No need to rewire.

     

    The first issue is to establish which Function Output is connected to which pair.

     

    Rather than me guessing, can you tell me which colour wire operates which colour LEDs at which end of the loco, please? I'll then be able to give the correct CVs.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Paul

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Thanks Paul,

     

    Details as follows:

     

    Green - marker lights No.1 end

    White - marker lights No.2 end

    Yellow - tail lights No.1 end

    Brown - tail lights No.2 end

     

    Cheers,

     

    Mike

  7. Hi Paul,

     

    Firstly thank you so much for taking time to provide such a comprehensive reply.

     

    Modifying the cv's as you advise produces some interesting results. Whether this means there are crossed wires on the Express Models pcb I'm not sure (and can't see unfortunately).

     

    Anyway, I've listed below what happens.

     

    Option 1. ( cv434=2,  cv438=1)

     

    F0 - marker lights @ No.2 end on.

    F1 - marker lights @ No.1 end on.

    This is with No. 2 and leading.

     

    F0 - tail lights @ No.2 end on.

    F1 - tail lights @ No.1 end on.

    This is with No.1 end leading.

     

     

    Option 2. (cv434=1, cv438=2)

     

    F0 - marker lights @ No.2 end on.

    F1 - tail lights @ No.2 end on.

    This is with No.2 end leading.

     

    Corresponding lights change to No.1 end with change of direction.

     

    Is there any way to correct this?

     

    It occurs to me I could simply switch the tail light wires over where they connect to the Express Models pcb if not.

     

    Warm regards,

     

    Mike

  8. I'm in the process of converting one of the original twin flywheel Bachmann Class 46's to dc. This is the version that doesn't have a dcc socket.

     

    I've fitted a Zimo MX600 and the loco runs beautifully.

    My next task was fitting lights - for this I'm using the "Express Models" DCC Head/Tail light pack.

     

    The instructions state the following:

     

    This unit is supplied with five input leads. These are :-

    Blue - positive common

    White - negative head lights (forward direction)

    Green - negative tail lights (forward direction)

    Yellow - negative head lights (reverse direction)

    Violet - negative tail lights (reverse direction)

     

    I've connected everything up from their lighting pcb "like for like" as instructed - the only exception being there isn't a violet wire on the mx600 but a brown wire instead. I've connected this brown wire to the violet wire on the lighting pcb.

     

    Now to my problem - the lights don't work as expected...

     

    What I'm getting is as follows:

     

    With my NCE Power cab set to FORWARD:

     

    F0 - marker lights on @ front (relative to direction of travel)

    F1 - marker lights on @ rear (relative to direction of travel)

    F2 - tail lights on @ front (relative to direction of travel)

     

    unable to get tail lights @ rear to work.

     

    With my NCE Power cab set to REVERSE:

     

    F0 - tail lights on @ front (relative to direction of travel)

    F1 - marker lights on @ front (relative to direction of travel)

    F2 - tail lights on @ rear (relative to direction of travel)

     

    unable to get marker lights @ rear to work.

     

    This has me with my limited knowledge of such things completely stumped!

    Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the lights working as they should?

     

    Many thanks in advance,

     

    Mike

  9. 13 minutes ago, bart2day said:

     

    Hi Mike,

     

    I too have this crackle that happens right at the end of the loco shutdown on both my Loksound 4s as well as the Loksound Select that came factory fitted in my Bachmann 37. My two Loksound 5s however don’t make this crackle. Whether that is because of the decoder or the file I’m not sure.

    Thanks for that - in a way that's good to know.

    It just seemed strange to me that with so many Loksound v4 decoders out there I couldn't recall ever hearing of this issue before. I'd remembered reading that the v4 hissed but this crackle is quite pronounced and spoils any attempts at realism.

     

    I'm going to contact ESU with the recoding to see what they have to say.

    In the meantime I think I'll be sticking to Zimo sound decoders which I understand suffer no such flaws!

     

    • Like 1
  10. Hello all,

     

    I'd appreciate your thoughts and advice with an issue I'm experiencing with a Loksound V4 decoder.

     

    The decoder in question was fitted from new in my Bachmann Class 47 (47 001). I'd never been very happy with the sound project and so recently sent the decoder to be reblown by DC Kits with the Legomanbiffo 47/4 sound project.

     

    Overall the project is a huge improvement however I have one big disappointment - there is a very noticeable sound of static like crackle at the end of the sound file when the loco is shut down.

     

    There is no evidence of this crackle during the playing of any other sounds within the project.

     

    I raised my concern with DC Kits and had a reply from Bif who said nothing can be done because what I'm hearing is a limitation of the Loksound V4.

     

    I have a couple of other Loksound V4 chips and don't hear this kind of sound problem.

     

    The loco in question is fitted with a double iPhone speaker, supplied by Roads and Rails. My first thought had been a faulty speaker but I've swapped that for another and the crackle remains.

     

    Seems very odd to me.

     

    A short video clip hopefully demonstrates what I'm talking about.

     

     

    Thoughts and advice would be gratefully received.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Mike

  11. Hi all,

     

    I've just fitted a DCC Concepts Zen decoder to my Dapol Class 22 and would appreciate some guidance on CV setting as I'm still new to this sort of thing.

     

    I use a NCE Power cab and successfully changed CV's 33,34,35,36 as detailed in the enclosed leaflet.

    This was partially successful as far as the lighting functions were concerned.

    F0, F1 and F2 then work as the leaflet describes - I'm unable to get the cab lights to work though.

    Reading the leaflet I think this is what Dapol are describing when (as is the case with the Power cab) F2 is just a momentary switch.

     

    I'm getting a bit lost at that point...

     

    Can anyone advise what values I need to set in CV's 33,34,35,36 as I don't fully understand the table Dapol provide?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Mike

  12. Morning all,

     

    I'm sure I'm being very dense but I'm struggling to switch on the cab lights in a Bachmann Class 47 that I've recently fitted with a Legomanbiffo Class 47/4 Loksound V4 decoder.

     

    My understanding was this function was assigned to F19 but this doesn't appear to do anything.

    I'm using an NCE Power cab and can action "extended functions" via the Option key on the Power cab.

     

    I've tried swapping back to a non sound decoder and the cab lights function normally via F0.


    What am I missing?

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Mike

  13. Apologies for not answering your question but instead posting another one but I too was about to ask about Class 50 sound projects...

     

    Much of my "misspent" youth consisted of spending many hours at Penzance in the early 1980's - lots of fifties in those days! :sungum:

     

    I've witnessed more 50 start ups than I care to remember - unless my memory is playing tricks, I think I'm remembering correctly that once the engine had started, warmed up and settled down to a nice even beat, when the ETH was engaged the engine revs at idle increased quite noticeably as the loco took up the load.

     

    Do any of the existing sound projects have the facility to mimic this, i.e. is there a toggle to "switch on" the ETH, where the engine idle revs are higher than at start up?

     

    I'm hoping my rambling makes sense!

     

    If this doesn't currently exist (to all those out there producing your wonderful sound projects), can I add this to a wish list - there have been a few instances now of air-con ETH stock hooked up to a Class 50 so hopefully it would be possible.

     

    Many thanks,

     

    Mike

  14. Hi all,

     

    Is it me or is it nigh on impossible to contact/place an order with Shawplan?

     

    I've tried ringing at the specified time - I must have tried this in excess of 50 times now but the phone either just rings and rings or I've had a message saying orders are only being accepted by post or email.

     

    I've emailed numerous times but have never received a reply.

     

    I've sent emails with payment details and an order (with cheque) by post. Again nothing!

    I've been trying this for over 3 months now.

     

    I'm at a loss what to do and there isn't an alternative for the item I need - a roof fan and grille for a Bachmann Class 46 (early Bachmann variant).

     

    None of the usual suppliers have stock for most Shawplan items.

    Peter's Spares informed me it takes over a year to get a reply when they chase orders. . .

     

    Can anyone help?

    Many thanks,

     

    Mike

  15. Does anyone know if Shawplan are still trading? I've tried emailing (some time ago) and have phoned on numerous occasions but although the number rings it's never answered.

     

    To add to my woes the majority of the Shawplan detailing parts seem to be out of stock everywhere.

     

    I'm after the "Extreme etchings" Class 44/45/46 roof fan and grille for an oo gauge 'old' Bachmann peak.

     

    Any help would be appreciated sourcing this or an alternative if such a thing exists!

     

    Many thanks,

     

    Mike

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