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MarkNJ

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Posts posted by MarkNJ

  1. What a co-incedence.  I am also a resident of the GWN and was just looking in Crappy tire today to see if I could find something appropriate.  I came across one that was close but couldn't find any details that would indicate if it was safe for plastic.  Decided to leave it and will see what my local gamer store has in Humbrol or Viejo.

     

    Hi Theakerr,

     

    My model is brass so plastic compatibility is not an issue.

     

    Mark

  2. Just finishing off a GWR full brake, in BR maroon (cellulose)...my usual methods employed for getting the lining straight - which on the previous 30 odd coaches worked well. Added the Micro sol, off came the top covering to reveal a donkey's hind leg. Added more micro sol and went about trying to repair the line. Gave up! So the question is what will remove the lining without damaging the paint or it's high gloss finish? or is this heading to a bath of cellulose thinners and start from scratch...

     

    Mike

     

    Hi Mike,

     

    If you use plenty of water and a soft fine paint brush and work it under the transfer the transfers will lift off without damaging the paint. This can take a bit of time and patience.

     

    Mark

  3. So lead up to the video I posted was filing hornblocks thinner and my Heath Robinson holder to do it!

     

    attachicon.gif21246CB3-803E-45CD-B46C-87146AE31D0E.jpegattachicon.gif0F779603-0C10-443A-A09C-F54AAF52E6D4.jpegattachicon.gif37C4AE26-22C7-4939-91A2-FB71015412DA.jpeg

     

    Had enough of the chassis so moved on to connecting rods, I thought the brass to flimsy Laurie recommending mild steel I hunted out what I had to hand, ah a cut nail! That’ll do it.

     

    attachicon.gif947C622E-D0DD-4A9A-9BAD-2E5EE15F240C.jpegattachicon.gifF255FD05-C65A-4EE6-8A06-F89DA72ABD74.jpeg

     

    Blimey those crankpins are blumin tiny! One bush successfully drilled in. They don’t want to wind into the threaded hole in the wheels all the way, ideas anyone?

     

    attachicon.gif5949F896-8B29-4294-8D56-158A75235029.jpegattachicon.gif37A7C07B-3D4A-47F3-8504-0910F2AFEFAE.jpegattachicon.gif12FDF011-0F17-42B3-A6AF-9B8C3EC33C65.jpeg

     

    Measured the wheel/crankpin centres made it 24.5mm not 24mm so pushed out the hole to suit that, then found on the model that was to much! Time to cut another ho hum!attachicon.gif5950F874-1277-4FB6-9C56-46940D70A50A.jpeg

    You need to counterbore the threaded holes for the crankpins slightly as some of the crankpins are not fully threaded.

     

    Keep up the good work

    Mark

  4. Hi ScR,

     

    It looks like you need to connect the spring wire pick up to the insulated carbon brush.

     

    Mark

     

     

    Hello all again, this is the results of the last weeks work, I've managed to fit the replacement driving wheels and coupling rods, Hornby T9 spare. However it will not run, I was somewhat expecting this. Here are the photos. 

     

    attachicon.gifSAM_1184.JPG

     

    attachicon.gifSAM_1185.JPG

     

    attachicon.gifSAM_1186.JPG

     

    I have observed that a Hornby shunter I have uses a type of small Orange capacitor that I have seen for sale quite cheaply on eBay, could that make a suitable replacement?

     

    ScR.

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