Softvark

Great videos, Rod, I thoroughly enjoyed those.

Any chance of some more?

Julian

I use a fairly fine-toothed tenon saw to cut ply' for my frames - this has never caused any splintering problems on good quality birch ply'.

I think this is the key - use a good quality plywood.

I bought some 'cheap' stuff from a well know diy store not that long ago and the amount of splintering on the underside was appalling. I was using a fine toothed blade in a jigsaw, with the anti splinter guard in place, but I'd used the same type previously with nowhere near the same amount of tearing. However it does seem quite difficult to find decent quality ply - especially at a reasonable price.

Julian

I still have 4 Warwells to finish and a JLTRT BG and my JLTRT 27030.

Really looking forward to this as I also have a JLTRT BG to build - after I've finished by class 37/0

Wow, I've never been much of a fan of the 66 but that underframe and bogie detail is fantastic.

Julian

Thoroughly enjoyed finally being able to see Dock Green after following its development over 46 pages, and it was a real pleasure to meet Chaz and Sue.

Totally agree with all the comments about the quality of the modelling and all the attention to details. I could have spent hours just watching the trains from over the bridge parapet!

Julian

 

Julian, the MMP B Tank is better than the Heljan one but will take you a while to assemble it.

Tell me about it - I've completed 4 now and that's enough!

Julian

Looking good Brian. How do they compare, in the flesh, to the MMP tanks? The catwalks don't look as fine but at least they are perfectly straight whereas the MMP ones were always a challenge!

Julian

Hi Chaz

How about a grain of rice bulb like this http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/TruOpto-Rice-Grain-Meter-Bulb-81587

You could then cut the leads short and solder on enamelled wire to pass down the post. You can get very fine enamelled wire but you would probably want something around 30 swg to make it manageable http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Enamelled-Copper-Wire-62484

Fibre optics produce a very narrow beam of light so you would have to create something to diffuse the beam on the end of the fibre. I'm not too sure how you would do that such that the light was even.

Julian

It looks very similar to the tulle I am thinking of using.

You'll have to excuse the garish green colour - I was experimentally dyeing it for use as fishing nets...

As you can see from the ruler I reckon that there are approx. 3 links per 5mm, if it's not stretched, which is slightly overscale but not too bad.

Julian

Just a thought, but chain link fence often has a horizontal wire or two to support it over a certain height. You might find you can thread the tulle on to fine brass wire to achieve the support you need.

Yes, that was something I am considering doing if I go down the tulle route. I think I need to try it as I'm wondering if the threading will look odd, unless the wire is very fine. I was also wondering if nylon fishing line might be finer?

Julian

However you might be interested to know that I found that if I cut my two pieces the height that I wanted I had two half height pieces left over. I soldered the two offcuts together with a very small overlap and so ended up with three pieces, all the same height.  I sprayed it with grey primer - I did consider adding some rust but decided to leave it looking new.

That is really useful to know. It would definitely make it more cost effective.

Julian

Is it the diamond mesh on this page http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Meshes___Mailles.html? It looks like it but it would work out rather expensive for the length I would need.

I'm also looking at using tulle - a sort of netting used in dressmaking. I've got some which I'm using for model trawler fish nets which is almost the right mesh size but it will be difficult to get it to be even and vertical for the length of a fence.

I'm also thinking of using tinsel wire stripped from old telephone cables for the top wires. The model barbed wire seems really overscale but tinsel wire looks pretty good.

Julian

Thanks Chaz, it gives me ideas and something to look for.

Julian

I'm really impressed by this cracking layout - can I ask how you made your chainlink fence? I've looked through the pages and I can't see any explanation but I may have missed it. So often it can look overscale but this looks just right.

Julian

I've added some detail photos of 27005 I took last summer at the Bo'ness and Kinneil railway if it's of any use to anyone - http://www.flickr.com/photos/julianbest/

Julian

Hi Julian, you can use Carp fishing rig tubing varios sizes and colours

Thanks Gazza and Brian! I've never been fishing in my life so this will be an experience.

Julian

Amazing Brian, I can't believe how fast you bulid these!

Can I ask where you get the black flexible sleeving from? I find the JLTRT supplied sleeve is too large a diameter. They recommend telecom cable but the correct size is not sufficiently expandable to go over the ends of the spigot. Is it small bore heatshrink that you're using?

Julian

Very useful and interesting video. Quite timely for me as I was wondering how best to "bulk up" an initial covering of static grass.

Do you ever go over the grass with a vacuum before the pva has completely set to get all the fibres upright? I've seen some people say you should do this but I've never tried it.

Julian 

I know what you mean about warm and cosy modelling environments - I've not managed to stay in the garage for more than a few moments for what seems like weeks now. Never mind - it's given me an excuse to build some rolling stock

If you're like me then once you actually start replacing the pointwork you'll wonder why you ever put it off in the first place as it won't be as bad as you think.

Julian 

Hi Andy

I think you may find the plastruct slightly overscale at 1.6mm. I used MSE point rodding stools and 0.9mm square section brass wire (from a well known internet auction site). Any rod larger than that would not have fitted into the stool slots. It looked OK which is the main thing!

Julian

Points looking very good, Rod!

Julian

I also don't use a decoder for coach lighting. In my era of modelling, the late 70s, lighting was quite dim so I set the light output from the LEDs to be low. it is not noticeable that they are on in daylight but look realistic when dark.

The other advantage is that it's easy to create your own flicker free circuit - simply take the voltage from the pickups through a bridge rectifier to a capacitor placed before the series resistor to supply the LEDs.

Simple and cheap.

Julian

I only use these for the outer coaches and use Kadee's for the other ends that are coupled up to each other.

Hi Brian, could I ask what sort of Kadees you are using? There seem to be so many! I've been using buckeyes on my JLTRT Mk1s but they are a fiddle and I think that Kadees would be a better solution.

Julian

I don't seriously see Heljan ever doing a 27, I might consider doing a 26 to 27 conversion. Any thoughts ?

I'd be interested in learning about your experiences if you do this and what would be involved. At the moment the only options for a 27 seems to be JLTRT or to wait for the MMP kit to be available.

Depending upon the work involved a conversion may be another option.

Julian

For some reason this kit had an etch for the floor plan to glue onto the chassis. The other 2 of these Mk1's I have built have had a plasticard floor.

Interesting - both my Mk1s (bck, sk) had the floor plan etch. Perhaps they were just omitted by mistake in the kit for your other ones?

Julian