Nigelcliffe

Nigel, Is this because you're one of those people who don't like inertia/brake, or that you think that the implementation on this controller? If the latter; why? Thanks, Richard.

I don't like the implementation on this specific controller (I'm quite happy with a classic inertia/brake as on a panel mount Pentroller and several other controllers). I know others who do like the MedVend Blueline inertia feature. But, I thought it was worth pointing out that there may be an issue with that feature

I thought that some people had talked to the Pictroller designer about the poor performance on small coreless motors, and there may be a tweak available.  Worth contacting him to find out.
 
Alternatively, and much cheaper, the small units from MedVend get good comments and seem to perform well - I think that Mark Fielder has one. They can be battery (9v) or powered by a power-brick.  Personally, I don't like the inertia/brake stuff on the "Blueline" MedVend units, but for basic speed control they seem to perform well - I've not tested the MedVend on small motors such as a Nigel Lawton or Faulhaber/Maxxon.  Under Euro30, and Euro8 for postage last time I saw a price list.  Email the owner of the website for sales via PayPal.

 http://medvend.hu/analog_en.html
 
 
However, like others, I like my Pentroller and don't plan to get rid of it, even though most of my models are now DCC, I test run stuff on DC extensively before fitting chips. 
 
 
- Nigel

Andrew,  I assume you know that an EZ Command with its supplied Power Supply puts out a very high track voltage.  Enough to cause problems with some small decoders in my experience.   If you want to try something more sensible, around 11v AC supply seems to give a sensible output from an EZ.  ( Or use the EZ to power a lower output booster   ).    The EZ also only delivers 28 speed step instructions, so takeoff from standstill may not be quite as smooth as you can achieve with better controllers. 

I think the run-round might require some modifications near the buffer end, possibly loosing the road which goes across the buffers to make the line a bit longer to get the cross-over in without being too cramped and spoiling the effect.   

I found that using an airbrush to blow dust from a layout worked well,  perhaps combined with something to try to catch the now airborne dust .

-  Nigel

Don't need to limit the power supply, it will be fine at 1.5A.   The Servo4 device will only draw 500mA, so you could run three of them from the power supply.

BUT....  You need a setup device as well to use the Servo4, or it does nothing.  

The cheapest setup device is a serial lead to your computer (assuming it has a serial port, or you have a suitable USB-Serial adaptor).  Once the settings have been made, disconnect the lead and done.  This requires some software running on a PC to make the settings.  Various options exist on the MERG website, and one day they will have the stuff properly organised so it is easy to find.

The other setup device is the servo-settings box, which is another MERG kit.  This is a stand-alone box of gubbins which you temporarily connect to the Servo4 to make the changes.

There is another way, but only for the somewhat insane... The PIC (processor) can be programmed with the settings required directly into its EPROM.  Requires a PIC programmer.   The other two options are a lot more sensible and cheaper !

- Nigel

Hi - the guttering is in fact modified Wills plastic guttering or downpipes.....

Thanks for the explanation.

Very nice.

How did you form the gutters ? (Mine are not yet at gutter stage, but will be soon).

Only one comment, in my experience, aluminum angle does not make a good reliable running surface. Aluminium angle is great for alignment, but I'd be fitting steel (or similar) rail to the inside corner for the wheels to run along for both the alignment angles, and any cassettes which use aluminium.

( I could dredge up my physics and chemistry of conductivity of aluminium oxides, but it would be a long deep dig ! )

- Nigel

A cheap photographic light box helps - white fabric covered box with one open side, which you put bright lights around. This gives a uniform difused light to the subject within. Jessops sometimes have them for sale at good prices.

Then, add cheapy close-up filter lenses to the end of a zoom camera:

http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/budgetphotos/index.htm

- Nigel

Hello Nigel

 

This is probably a stupid question but that diagram you have posted is for one end only, yes? I will have to duplicate it for the other end?

Yes, duplicate for the other end, onto decoder outputs 3 and 4.

Some modifications required if outputs 5 and 6 of a Zimo MX620 are used, I can sketch those at Warley.

- Nigel

 

A and B would not be on at the same time, so the combinations (A1+C2) or (B1+C2) and their inverses are all that is required.

 

'A' would be normal for most railcar services as they were stopping passenger trains. I suspect that 'B' was rarely used, except on the later two car units, as it would indicate an express service. Note, I'm using Missy's labels here, not headcode class designations, and we'll ignore the business of the oil tail light

For the combinations Nick outlines above:

LEDs are labelled A1, B1, C2. Resistors are rectangles. Current diodes (eg. 1N4001, though smaller would work) are unlabelled.

This results in the tail lamp (C2) being on regardless of which of A1 or B1 are on (or both).

Control of the outputs is for function mapping within the decoder, it depends on what each maker offers. From reading their manuals, TCS seem to have a wide range of options, so it would be possible to map the combination (A1+C2) to Function Key F1 when forwards, and a different output (eg. A2 + C1) to F1 when in reverse.

- Nigel

If not resolved quickly, bring it and a bit of paper to Warley next weekend and we'll work it out.

As the thread shows, it depends on how many different combinations of lamps are required.

If the arrangement when going in direction 1 is

(A1 + C2) or (B1 + C2) or (A1 + B1 + C2)

ie. C2 will be on whenever any of A1 or B1 is on.

Then that only takes two wires (four for both directions). C2 is fed by both of the wires, using diodes to stop back-currents illuminating the "wrong" ones of A1 or B1.

That leaves two spare outputs, for the interior lights and the loo flush.

- Nigel

Is the Tomix unit a definite fit under these etches ? The width over the side-skirts is limited, so bogie space is restricted.

I know someone with one of these on the bench with chassis design still in the air.

- Nigel

David,

I've been playing in similar areas, and have a S.h.a.g. lever frame attached to a LocoIO board (Loconet) talking back to JMRI. Like you, I'm using LEDs to indicate lock state for now.

For the actual interlocking, I was thinking of mechanical blades (like a flat screwdriver) which came up vertically below each lever, and thus locked movement from its current position. The blade would come up where the mechanical wire connection goes in the frame. Not yet sure how to move the blade - solenoid or servo springs to mind.

Finally, have you looked at Kevin Dickerson's UK signalling plug-in for JMRI ? Its available from his Orwell-St-Johns railway page, follow links into computer control.

http://www.orwell-st-johns.co.uk/

- Nigel

I find that a fixed wire length is a lot easier than turn counting unless you rig up a mechanical counter. After a few of the same size, I usually stop even measuring length; just make them to the same size as the first ones. We're talking crude solenoids here, not precision instrumentation coils ! I measure the finished coil resistance to make sure its roughly what was expected, and that's the quality control finished.

I use shellac (crystals dissolved in meths) to fix the wire to my coils; paint a little on every now and then as I wind them. Mine can be tiny; 3mm x 3mm when finished for mounting inside locos (Missy has one I think).

I maintain tension by running the wire under the handles of my insulated pliers resting on a piece of MDF; far easier than holding the wire. I then guide its angle on the coil by gently pressing to left or right either with my finger nail or a small round probe.

- Nigel

Half answering Kris; I did something similar with a Farish 04. Boring the wheel centres really requires a lathe to ensure the bore and tread are concentric.

Its possibly easier if starting from the raw castings used to make 2mm wheels than the finished shop items; members can get the raw components if they ask the sales officers, but you are on your own with the machining (and machining mess-ups!).