Crosswood

Late to the party, as ever! I've just come across this thread and you've frightened me to death! If the asbestos doesn't get me, then maybe the selenium will - or possibly straightforward electrocution. I use my 2ndhand Duette (power lead insulation looks sound) to run modern locos on a double loop layout (cab control) with shunting yard and extension. What would wise people on here suggest as a replacement?

There is wise advice on here about making notes and labelling wires - can you guess who disregarded that. When setting it all up, it made sense but going back to it now it's bewildering. The need to tidy up was prompted by retro-fitting Seep point motors to previously manual points. That's another piece of advice I ignored - fit below the board point motors before pinning down, ballasting and doing the scenics. Thanks again, much appreciated.

Being both lazy and easily confused, I thought I would try 34theletteretc's simple suggestion first and, disconnecting my mimic panel with stud and probe point control and indicator LEDs from the 16V AC socket, all is well! I shall now power the panel etc from a spare 'The Engine Driver' dual controller with 16V AC outlet which is probably as old as my H&M Duette. Having tested it, everything works. Many thanks to all for suggestions, I knew there would be someone here with an answer. I shan't ask anyone to explain what the issue was since I shan't understand. I fear I may come back as other problems rear their ugly heads.

Thanks RFS, Bachmann Service Department are sending me replacement couplers and it will be interesting to see if they are the stepped/cranked ones, as opposed to the bog-standard straight ones. I need to become a deal more competent before I start seriously considering Kadees. Please look after Derbyshire for me. I mis-spent my early years in N E Derbys and, my word, it has changed more than a bit. But that's a whole different story.

Wow, thanks to all for your observations and suggestions. I am constantly amazed at the breadth of knowledge on here and members' willingness to share experiences. I am particularly struck by Johnster's call to manufacturers to get their act together, at least on their own products1 Thanks again

Flashes. I'm modelling (badly) end of steam on the Welsh borders. I am happy to live with locos from far beyond their home territory but would like them to be conteporaneously correct, if not geographically! Thanks for the suggestions so far, I think I shall check with Bachmann to see if the wrong coupling has been fitted in error.

Bought this a couple of years ago and have now reached the point where I am fitting uncoupling ramps to the track. The front coupler works fine every time, either on my own home-made acetate ramps or the Peco version. The rear coupler never works. Close study reveals that the dropper arm on the rear of the loco is too short to touch the ramp and from that I deduce that the entire coupler is set too high. If I raise the ramps any higher I shall derail the front bogie and foul the underside of the loco, so it seems I can either identify a replacement coupler with a longer drop arm, or lower the entire coupling - but how? All suggestions gratefully received, thanks. While I'm here: I've had to bend the brass strip make the front bogie sit more firmly on to the rails, not to mention having to send the loco back twice because the connecting rods were fouling other bits of gear. And shouldn't this loco have OHLE warning flashes? I don't believe we should have this sort of hassle given the amount we are paying