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  1. Found the thread of your K2 Build 'Mike', but lost track of my initial enquiry to you!!
  2. Mike don't know if you can help me. Some time ago, I found and followed the thread of someone called Loch Rannoch (I think), whose thread about building a LRM K2 kit I thought was very useful. I would like to access it again, as I now feel I may be ready to attempt the kit. Grateful for any help you could give. You, or anyone else can contact me on e-mail at i.ogden88@btinternet.com. Thanks.
  3. Looks like I will be searching for an August '94 Modellers Backtrack now then. Strange how the impromptu discovery of something can bring on thoughts of a new or different project! Ian O.
  4. Thanks for your prompt reply Angus. Sorry to hear things seemed to have stalled a little. I know you obtained a OS map which I think gave you some scale of things on the ground. Did you get any further detail on such things as station diagram/platform lengths for instance, at Killin Junction? It's a but difficult to work out the scale of things, although one could always hazard a guess, in comparison with train lengths for example. Likewise building dimensions for the main platform shelter. You are right though, in saying that Thompson coaches were available RTR; I am sure it was Hornby who produced them a few years ago, along with a number of Gresley suburbans. Comet do a few kits now though in etched brass, not the D361's, but fairly similar brake third types - D340 or 360 I think. That would mean honing my etched kit-building skills!
  5. PS Don't know where in Cardiff you are 65179, as that is where I am. Coming from Manchester, I noticed you are looking at the ex Manchester Central line as a project, yes?
  6. Really interesting thread Argos, despite the fact that I am a year or three late finding it. Which may be the reason I cannot access many of the photos - apart from those of Swiss Ernie, which are really nice colour shots. I lived in Scotland for nearly 10 years, although did not explore the area of the C&O route much, and by the time I got to Callander again years later, the station was long gone! You probably know, but parts of it feature in Rob Bell's 'Walking Britain's Lost Railways' programme on the route. A few clips in colour - albeit a bit fuzzy - of loco and trains in operation. A tempting potential project (although I am already working on another one). Maybe a micro layout, featuring just the branch platform at Killin Junction (the station would need about 20+ feet to do it justice in 4mm scale). I have found the Thompson 4/5-compt. brake 3rd. coach drawings in my Jenkinson and Camplings' Historic Carriage Drawings book. Useful for building a Comet kit or two/three, if Hornby or Bachmann don't produce one and/or the other. We'll see.
  7. I want to try using transfers to add numbers to a loco I am going to re-paint. I have never done this before, and if you don't do it right and get the level and spacing correct, it will look a mess. Can anyone give me some detailed pointers as to how I go about this, or maybe the source of an article on the subject (if it is still available)? Grateful for any advice and guidance on this.
  8. Only two years late (didn't realise Braynerts was on RM Web, until I recently re-read your item on the subject in Scalefour News). Nice, compact layout Paul. Pity I couldn't sccess the photos for some reason, unless many of them are time-expired.
  9. Although not a particularly regular customer, I did tend to make my way to Eileen's as one of the first and most important stops at shows they attended. I always had really good, friendly service from the staff, and will certainly miss the excellent range of products amd materials for the finer scale modeller. My best wishes - and thanks - to and for all who have been involved in such a fantastic business which has served our hobby.
  10. Examined the etch and 'bits' after recieving the kit on Staurday Ian. All to the usual high standard. Do you have any thoughts regarding future NPCS (or similar) projects?
  11. As far as I understand it Ian, it Tom had alrady acquired 'Humber Dock'. If that is not the case, please let me know. I don't do social media, so cannot contact you directly without an e-mail address. I have always really liked the layout, and could be very interested, if it is still available. You can contact me direct if you wish at i.ogden88@btinternet.com
  12. Hi Ian, looks like I may have missed the boat - for the time being at least - as I have only just discovered this thread on your new chassis kit. Please let me know when you are likely to be ordering another batch of etches. I already had one of your BZ kits from you some time ago; not made much progress with it yet due to conetrating on loco kit building, and now layout wiring (somewhat slow as I have never done it before). Look forward to hearing from you.
  13. Apologies if I am back-tracking on this, some time after the thread was started, but I am on my first attempt at wiring a layout and a novice at doing layout electrics. For my sins, the layout includes a double slip, and I need some basic information/help in working out how to do it. If I use, say, Seep point motors, I presume they will a) move the relevant blades to the required position, b) provide the correct polarity at each 'frog', and c) they can be controlled by SPDT switches. Each stock/outer rail will need to be wired at its centre point in the slip configuration, as will each crossing 'V'. The 'V's are then connected to the SPDT switches yes? As you can work out from the above, I am looking for information/help on really basic stuff.
  14. I have recently started building a DJH WD 2-8-0 kit, starting with the tender. It will be a fair weight when fully assembled, and I am not sure what size/type of motor would be needed for the loco (it will not be required to haul multi-wagon trains). Also, in assembling the tender chassis, it has not been easy to create the solder joints for the main white metal components. I have recently acquired a Antex soldering station, which seems to work well, but I am not sure what temperature I should set it at for safe white metal soldering with low-melt solder. I started at 120 degrees, but have nudged it up to 150, and I am not sure the joints are as strong as they might be, although the basic chassis does hold together alright so far! Any tips here gratefully received.
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