AlanRM

Thanks again Kris – but can anyone confirm the long term viability of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water and Woodland Scenics Water Effect in natural sunlight? I’d like to use both Thanks!

Many thanks, Kris, and much appreciated. For those who have not seen the video, it's here (with the warnings of UV discolouration starting at 8 min 29 sec). This video was apparently made in 2016. BTW, the pools produced using this video are awesome - stunning colour and real "depth". And all from some toilet roll, white glue and a few layers of high gloss varnish. I skipped the additional coat of white glue over the varnish (12 mins in) and just kept going with the varnish. 4-5 coats are perfect.

Hi all - apologies if this has been aired before (but even if it has, things might have moved on). I am constructing a waterfall and need a product which will enable me to model the cascading water but won't fade with UV/ age. The wonderful marklinofsweden flagged this issue in a waterfall tutorial and advised viewers to check the latest products/ experiences in the forums. He indicated that some products could turn brown within a few months. All thoughts welcome! Cheers, and thanks in anticipation :-)

Thanks - working in HO scale on this one to match Preiser figures (although would probably work in OO). I stumbled on the artists’ pastel fixative thanks to OH. It works remarkably well and really does highlight the surface of the wood (bringing it to life), even from a distance. Probably helps seal the surface and repel dust, too. Haven't tried brollies yet! PS - haven't had so much success with balsa on this sort of thing as it can rip/tear. Mahogany is so crisp

Working on it! (cough cough...)

OK since no one is asking, and I am not by a PC tomorrow in case someone does, here goes: Wood - 1/32nd (0.8mm) Mahogany sheet from an aero model shop or https://www.slecuk.com/hardwoods/mahogany (one sheet makes dozens of benches – leftovers useful elsewhere) Tips: - Bench end frames are made from 2mm strips (draw a simple side-on diagram on a sheet of paper and use as a template – see attached with mahogany frame awaiting trimming) - Each end frame is 10mm from ground to top; 5mm from ground to the top of the bench rest crossbeam - Construct end frames from long (2-3 inch) 2mm strips then trim afterwards. Longer strips are much more easily aligned/held if you have 10 thumbs (as I do) - Table tops are 25mm x 15mm; each bench seat is 25mm x 4mm - Use superglue throughout (I applied tiny drops with a glass head modelling pin) - (Optional) When complete, spray with artists’ pastel fixative (I used Frisk Graphic Art Materials because Other Half had some spare). This dries in minutes, darkens the wood, brings out the grain brilliantly and makes any superglue residue completely disappear - Drink beer

Working on the parasols - currently adorning my tequila :-)

Hi all. I have just constructed a few beer garden benches from scrap modelling mahogany sheet - I'm sure this must have been covered before, but shout if I can suggest dimensions, etc. Also uses pastel fixative which enhances the wood grain and disguises any superglue stains :-)

That's great - thanks! Personal experience beats everything. More shortly when I have the sample through the post. Cheers, Alan

Hi all and an update. I have also phoned a very friendly filter materials specialist who is popping a free sample of their "blue/white medium" in the post today. It certainly looks the equivalent of the US product, so fingers crossed. I'll report back on suitability when it arrives in case others are planning the same, but meantime if anyone has any other thoughts that would be very welcome. I suspect various products would fit the bill but I'd like to stick as close as possible to the recommended formula :-)

Hi guys (and gals!). I would like to make 1-200 pine trees and have settled on this technique using layers of "furnace filters": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wdSKMOV8dY ...See 2mins 50secs in, but to save everyone time, the material is described in this US video as blue fibre filters, available also in rolls. I think this is the stuff here (in half inch form - it's for OO/HO): https://www.aafintl.com/pt-br/commercial/browse-products/commercial/media-pads-and-rolls/polyklean-blue-rolls Clearly we have similar filters in the UK, perhaps under a different name or application. Many Google searches have led to heating and ventilation filters, fish pond filters, etc., but the choice is overwhelming. Does anyone have any ideas? Apologies if this has been covered before - I have seen many posts re tree fibres - but again, the choice is vast. It would be good just to find the UK equivalent (or even close) of the above if possible. Thanks in anticipation!

Thanks and yes, got this, thanks - have been experimenting!

This did strike me too as I was shaping it with the convex Stanley Surform shaver. It's spooky. I used 10mm EP layers which build nicely towards a village, but thinner might work very well for seashores Meantime, I'm off to experiment with plaster/ Sculptamold and a wallpaper scraper! Other Half has threatened to lock me in

Many thanks, Harold, and much appreciated. I had been wary of using PVA with EP after reports of a reluctance for it to dry in the inner parts, away from air (I have used many 2ft square panels). I have bonded several scraps of spare EP (and Surformed them similar to the pic) and will follow your excellent advice in experimenting. Using a wallpaper scraper to reach underneath the ledges is also an good idea. I'll try and report back :-)

Afternoon all. I have created gentle contours on a very rigid (1 inch thick) ply board using extruded polystyrene (see pic), and plan to top this with Sculptamold (as per many reccs here and Dave Frary’s book). The layers are bonded with an extensive grid of beads of a “Hard as Nails” equivalent (again recc by Dave Frary), applied using a caulking gun mechanism. Test pieces have shown this to be highly effective, but it leaves a very slight gap between the layers where there is no beading. I haven’t used EP before so would like to ask: - Should I sand the surface prior to covering (I would rather not, as it’s more work and logic says it might even provide more grip for the Scultamold)? - Over time, will the fine/ “feathered” edges (some of which have a tiny air gap where there is no beading) try to flex/ move/ curl/ rise etc. beneath any covering? - Will Sculptamold help reinforce these edges – and, if so, how thick would I need to go? All thoughts welcome and thanks in anticipation!

Excellent suggestions and thanks, RJS and Right Away! That's brilliant :-)

Hi guys I would like to build up my 1 inch ply baseboard progressively towards the rear, by around 1 ½ inches, to create a village on a gentle slope. I have explored two main routes - foam (too squashy for me to work with) and Polyfilla/ Plaster of Paris/ plaster bandages (too rigid/ might crack). It needs to be solid, yet able to be carved/ shaped/ sanded. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Sundeala (not so easily shaped?); Cork tiles (crumbles too easily?) I could perhaps coat cork (after shaping) with Hydrocal to cover any crumbling, while avoiding the "plaster/ Polyfilla" brittle finish (as Hydrocal seems less brittle). ....But has anyone done similar? All thoughts welcome and apologies if this has been asked before. Most dialogue on boards are to do with the choice of the baseboard itself, but I have this sorted already. Thanks in anticipation!

An unusual request ! On an 009 layout I am creating a model "visitors' area/ graveyard" where the (model) public can view trains in sidings. The idea is to have some being restored and others already renovated. Can anyone help with defunct 009 or HOe locos? Condition is almost immaterial as long as they have a body and wheels. All will be static only. Happy to pay or contribute to a charity of your choice. West Sussex based, but postage happily provided. PM me with any details, please - and thanks in anticipation :-)

Just to add my experience here - I have three locos from this range, and tests on the matt black (weathered) version using Powerbase show it will comfortably climb 1 1/2 inches for every foot travelled, carrying four lightweight passenger carriages. I am therefore using a more "gentle" (but still impressive) 1 inch rise for each foot travelled in a helix of around 18 inches in diameter. This gives roughly a 5ft circumference, so every rotation of the helix rises by five inches. It also enables remarkably steep climbs / descents in other visible parts of the layout - along mountain sides, ridges, etc. The downside is that the two Powerbase magnets required beneath the train (to pull towards the metal strips below the track, thus providing the grip) only just clear the sleepers (on Peco 009 flexible track), therefore the use of points, etc., would be impossible. I therefore plan to run two trains up the helix with Powerbase while the third, non-Powerbase, version, will trundle around the more horizontal goods yard. Also, would echo comments re sound with the Zimo card - pricey, but excellent.