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Richy59

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Posts posted by Richy59

  1. I asked Hattons online chat about this, and they confirm that the ESU LokPilot V5 is the only way to achieve full lighting functions on a DCC Ready model. I’ve managed to find one online and ordered that and the ONE 66 so hopefully get a chance to try fit it later this week :)

  2. That’s why I was looking for the ideal decoder to fit into it as I can only get it as dcc ready. I want to take full advantage of the lighting like the sound version I got earlier in the year. I don’t want to stick the wrong decoder in and not get to use all the possible features. I will have a look for an esu lokpilot :) 

     

    What does the MKL mean, as you highlighted I should get one of those?

  3. Thanks, appreciate the advice. I’m sure I can give it a go.

     

    I think I previously read that the lighting is designed with a specific decoder in mind when using dcc control. What’s the best decoder to get rather than Hattons own brand ‘recommended’ one? Want to make sure I get the correct decoder to take full advantage of the lighting.

     

    Thanks

  4. I bought their Large Logo 66 when first released, but got it in the sound variant.

     

    With the festive price drop I’m planning on buying their ONE version, however they only have it in DCC ready form. A few others have the DCC fitted.

     

    Has anybody here had Hattons do the DCC fitting for them on a 66? I’ve read how fickle and delicate the loco is when taking the body off, so I’d like to avoid it if possible, but then again Hattons may make a hash of it when doing it themselves as well after purchase.

  5. Sorry to drag up an old thread but can someone explain how I am supposed to wire up the supplies microswitch for frog polarity changing?

     

    It’s my first ever attempt at point motor installing, and I’ve been able to do the basic wiring for basic functioning, but can’t work out the instructions for the microswitch 

     

    Cheers

    • Like 1
  6. I purchased a Royal on Monday - BR Maroon - and when tested in the shop it was working fine forward and back.

     

    Got it onto the track yesterday and whilst it does work at slow speeds and high speeds, at medium speed the motor sound alike a bag of bolts. It’s running so roughly, and it just sounds terrible.

     

    However in reverse at the same speeds it is completely normal, nice quiet smooth runner. Very strange. Back into forward direction at the same speed at before and still very noisy. I’ve stopped running it as don’t want to risk damaging it, and contacted the shop I purchased it from for advice, but yet to hear back.

    • Friendly/supportive 2
  7. I recieved my GBRf BR Large Logo a few days ago and just got a chance to run it today. Firstly, very impressed by the detail and the sound, I don't know if it is the file or the speaker, or the combinations, but it sounds fantastic.

     

    I started to run it and instantly noticed it wobbling. Thought I'd give it a chance to run in first after what I heard from feedback about the pre-Christmas deliveries.

     

    Then it reached a turnout, and derailed. Tried again, same thing. I checked underneath and noticed that one of the wheels on the leading bogie is stuck off centre, and cannot move in our out within the frame. Checking the wheel covers it seems when mine has been glued into place on the axel it has actually glied itself to the bogie frame as well, so it is stuck solid and unable to rotate. This is causing the wheel to stay out of line, and when reaches a turnout it derails and shot circuits.

     

    I tried to push it out to normal position but its pretty solid. I don't want to force it and risk damaging the bogie frame itself. I've put a little oil on it to try loosen it up a bit, otherwise I'll need to look at something that will cut through the glue, or failing that have to send it back.

  8. I really enjoyed seeing Hallside on the Friday, was a pleasent surprise and one of my favourites. I spent some time watching the trains go by. Thanks to whoever answered my questions about the red ballast towards the end of the day on Friday, very friendly and helpful with good insights to the layout.

  9. 16 hours ago, lambiedg said:

    There is indeed a Park and Ride at Newton and there will be a 4mm version at the SEC in the shape of Hallside which is based on Newton and gives another option.......

     

     

    How did you do your red ballast? I'm in the process of starting my layout based in Scotland, and have been struggling to find a suitable red ballast to match the lines local to me.

  10. 5 hours ago, MGR Hooper! said:

     

    This image has been there from the 6th of Jan 2020, the day it was announced. It's not a pre-production sample, it's an image of the CAD that's used and has the livery applied over it. They do it for all their models upto a point where they have and can photograph the factory samples.

     

    Cheers

    Yeah sorry, I was getting myself mixed up with the other 91s they announced which just have placeholder real images on their website.

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  11. 1 hour ago, McC said:


    A sea borne consignment lands early next week. Not very much unsold but there should be some available online or via our retail partners in the coming weeks. 

     

    Alright, thanks! Wasn't aware of this so I'll keep an eye out on your website or via the stockists I've seen. I see Accurascale will be at Model Rail Scotland, is this a trade/advertisement stand rather than a retailing one like last year?

     

    Thanks again!

    • Like 1
  12. 2 hours ago, MGR Hooper! said:


    Thank you, when these go on sale, you will get both versions. I'm doing this solely to allow customers to get their money's worth out of Shapeways' ridiculous prices.

     

    I had a look at your Shapeways link and saw these are currently on sale, are they still in a testing phase? 

    • Like 1
  13. Sorry to drag up an old thread, but with Hornby announcing a batch of new liveries for their 66 in the 2020 range I thought it would be better than starting a new discussion.

     

    Glad to see they are diversifying a bit with liveries this year, as so far they have pretty much been matching the upcoming Hattons 66. Makes sense for them commercially I guess.

     

    Really like the look of the PD Ports DB livery, it may actually tempt me into getting my first Hornby 66.

     

    Since they have been out for awhile now, has anybody carried out any major modifications on their models - lights, more weight, weathering etc? 

    • Like 1
  14. 2 hours ago, big jim said:


    I bought both sets last week and despite not getting them out of the box properly yet I wouldn’t have noticed the difference had it not been pointed out here, looking forward to getting the full rake together soon, when I do I’ll photograph it, I also have a Bachmann 57 and BG to go with it 

     

    regards price it was adjusted down to a more realistic price by Hornby, I paid £134 for my train pack and £95 for the coach pack, I immediately sold the loco on eBay, getting £42 for it which I was more than happy with 

     

    That would be good, to see pictures of the full set together and any differences.

     

    I was looking on ebay the other day at these packs and saw the loco being sold on it's own, must have been yours!

     

    Interesting to know why they released two packs of the same theme at roughly the same time but went with different coach tooling for both. How odd.

  15. Interesting to hear that the Train Pack R3697 uses Mk2D coaches and the Coach Pack R4898 uses the Mk2E tooling. I was looking into purchasing these two packs to get a 6 coach train, and replace the 47 with the Bachmann 57 for example, but if the coaches are significantly different then I don't think I will bother. 

     

    Is it quite a noticable difference between the Airfix Mk2Es and the newer Hornby Mk2Ds?

  16. I'm a beginner, about to start laying track for my first layout in my loft. Not looking for anything fancy, but I do want it all run run well and just work. Originally I planned to just have basic power, 4 loops off one DCC controller (Sig-naTrak 'Ace') with Insulfrogs and no point motors.

     

    Now I have moved to a stage where I would like some fiddle yards along the backs, and I would like motors to move the points as required, so I'd also install points at other areas of the layouts, but I'm planning on keeping them as traditional switches rather than DCC controlled as don't want to input addresses every time I want to throw a switch.

     

    I am also thinking about upgrading to electrofrog points to allow for smoother running, however I'm still a bit lost with how (or why?) I need to solder cables onto them to allow them to work correctly.

     

    Forgive my naivety, but in some simple testing I have done, I was using basic Hornby - and a few Peco insulfrog - points and I was using the small metal clips (like staples) that are fitted between the point blades and rail that Hornby provide to allow DCC operation. These seem to work quite well, and allow for me to have locomotives switch tracks and switch loops and have all my locos powered with sound emitting from them and lights on without any wiring taking place.

     

    If I just keep using insulfrogs and these little metal clips in the points do i really need to do any additional wiring?

     

    Thanks

  17. 14 hours ago, arran said:

    HI

     

    No locos this year but we are considering what to do next , its not always as obvious what to do now, Unlike the 158  which sold out in a Day !!!!!  a record that will never be broken by anyone.

     

    Regards Arran

     

     

     

    Cheers Arran, was just wondering as was nice to be able to pick up something special the the show :)

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