hartleymartin

The great thing about Stanton S-cab is that it will pick up just about any sort of power to charge the battery. Doesn't matter if its the 16VAC from DCC, or a regular analogue controller. The only trouble for me, is that I kept putting off going to DCC to the point where conversion is going to be a bit expensive for my to do in one hit.

You can get a lot of 1:43 vehicles, but they tend to be mostly American models. The frustrating thing for Americans is that their O gauge trains are 1:48 scale!

And a link to some heritage information: https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/heritageapp/ViewHeritageItemDetails.aspx?ID=4807643

If anyone is interested, there is a short news report on the Carlingford Produce Store, which is still open 7 days a week:

Sure will. From comparing the two Aerial survey photos, I can confirm the only building from 1943 still there today is that produce store. Though, I wish I had taken more and better pictures last time I was there several years ago. That new tower is right in the way of some of the shots I would need!

Here is the same area with a contemporary Aerial Survey from the same website:

I was able to make use of a 1943 Aerial Photographic Survey of Sydney and surrounding areas to take this image. Image is a screen capture from this website: http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Finally laid my hands on the book! Lots of details being figured out for the era.

Time-Lord Technology.

I've previously used a mix of newspaper, old chux wipes, cheap paper towel, etc, mostly just laid on with cheap PVA mixed with cheap acrylic paint. Sometimes the paint wouldn't mix properly, so I just used the cheap PVA and then put a coat of earth-coloured paint over once it had set. I've even used old paint rags or worn out T-shirts, old pillow-cases or old socks (no worn-out underwear has made it into the scenery base yet!)

Thanks. I can send you some images which give basic dimensions. I know that there is a Slater's 3-plank dropside wagon which is a pretty good near-enough for one of the dropside D wagons, and perhaps a 5-plank is another one I can pass off. The Low-sided A wagon, which is basically a flat wagon with a single 6" plank all around is so simple I can probably manage it on my own.

Will contact you via pm. For the most part, fairly basic open 4-wheel wagons and a couple of vans. Mostly 15ft long, 8ft wide bodies. Generally about the same size as a Slater's Midland Railways open wagon. I am actually planning on using the Slaters MR chassis kits as the basis if I have to scratch-build the bodies. You can check out this webpage which shows some basic outline drawings. Of course, I have to purchase them, and probably have to pay a fee for the rights to use the artwork if it is something that gets turned into a kit or a re-salable item. http://grapevine.com.au/~datashet/set_wagons.html

Critter had a little disaster. I primed it in Tamiya light grey and tried a Humbrol spray can. It needs to go into a bath of plastic-safe paint-remover before anything else can happen. In other news, I bought an Atlas O Gauge "Bobber" Caboose for $5 the other day. Starting to consider what I might do with it. At the moment my thoughts are to do away with the cupola, put some slaters wheels into the underframe, add buffers, couplers and possibly replace the end-platform details. Perhaps something based on one of the Brill Tramway's former horse-drawn carriages:

Hi everyone. Being based in Australia, I don't always get to know about a lot of the manufacturers and stuff being made in England. I was hoping that some of you could point me towards various manufacturers and kits of pre-grouping vans and wagons. I'm working on a selection of rolling stock which would be near-enoughs to represent various items used circa 1900-1908 in NSW, Australia. Most of our wagons at that time came from British manufacturers. A lot of the earliest stuff from the 1850s onwards came from J Wright & Sons of Birmingham. A lot of our wagons were patterned after LNWR stuff in the early days - in fact our Loco No. 1 class were an 0-4-2 version of the 0-6-0 Wolverton Express Goods locos.

I'd like to know if you get any issues with buffer-locking on the S-bends formed by the cross-overs. I'm working on some designs at the moment.

The trick is designing the sidings so you don't get reverse curves. Minories is a great example of this.

I reckon they would have had the typical flip-up semi-circular flat smokebox door typical of the era.

I agree, I find that O gauge is something which cannot be rushed. One might make use of RTR and kits, which is certainly faster than building from scratch, but it does seem to be a scale which asks you to spend more time with each task than most other modelling scales.

Thanks. I was worried I might turn some of my models into blobs. I've seen bad paint reactions on brass models, but you can just dunk those in a bath of thinners and start again. Not so with plastic models.

Hi Everyone! I just discovered the range of Acrylic sprays that Humbrol has. In Australia, all spray-paint is stored in a locked cabinet to stop kids from stealing the stuff for graffiti/vandalism. I was just wondering if anyone knows about the compatibility between the Tamiya and Humbrol Acrylic sprays. I have used a lot of Tamiya over the years, though I am aware that most of the colours are more for military modelling and cars rather than railways. I'm just asking because I've used Tamiya grey primer on a project and I really would like to use Humbrol Brunswick Green, but I'm worried that it may turn my model into a pile of plastic-goo if there is a bad reaction.

It looks like they've 3D-printed a prototype and plonked it onto an existing HO chassis. I expect that Bachmann will actually make a proper chassis for the 2-6-2. I really wish they would do the 4-6-0 version though since we had a couple here in Australia.

O Gauge RTR is quite good, about the same as a moderate-difficulty kit build. 1 Gauge on the other hand seems to still be a scale which is the realm of kit-builders and miniature engineers. The question is really over the price-point. If you make model locomotives which sell for 200-300 pounds, you'll sell hundreds and maybe a few thousand of them. If you make model locomotives which sell for 2,000-3,000 pounds, you'll sell maybe a hundred of them all up over several years. You do have to watch what kind of product you put on the market.

The main thing with Gauge 1 is that there is 10mm scale (1:30.5) and 3/8" scale (1:32). You then run into complications with a number of varieties of G scale, which runs on the same gauge of track, but generally represents narrow gauge and uses different wheel/track standards. They generally all use 1-3/4inch, 44.5mm or 45mm gauge British Gauge 1 has "standard" and "fine" specifications which principally differs in the back-to-back wheel dimension which is 40mm in "standard" and 42mm in "fine" with flange ways being 3mm and 1.75mm respectively. https://www.g1mra.com/pdf/standard-dimensions-for-gauge1.pdf The American Large-Scale standard, which covers Gauge 1 and G scale (in its many varieties) varies yet again. The back-to-back is 41.5mm, but the flange ways are the same as British Gauge 1 "standard" https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-3.3 2010.02.24.pdf https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-4.2 2015.01.19.pdf https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-4.3 2010.02.24.pdf Co-incidentally, 7mm Finescale flange ways are the same as Gauge 1 fine standard, so depending on whether you use 1:30.5 or 1:32 scale, O gauge track is roughly around the 3ft, 3'3", Meter, 3'6" gauge. As usual, the wonderful thing about standards is that there are always several to choose from!

Thanks. I really think that getting a model into primer shows when the ideas have worked well.

Shot the first two light coats of grey primer. Looks pretty good I think.