paulypaul0

Thanks again for the additional information. I am a little confused with the primers - please bear with me! Taking Halfords as an example... Their "normal" primer I would guess is okay on plastics as well as metal (brass kits / fullsize cars etc)? Or would I aim for their plastic primer? And if I go for plastic primer and then use enamel paints on top of that am I going to have any issues since plastic primer is acrylic based? Thanks for all of your patience! Paul

Thank you for your comments. I think I will combine what I already know with trying out a few other options - acrylics etc - I do find the idea of wiping a brush and dipping into another colour most appealing! I won't be airbrushing, so will get myself a range of items from a few different manufacturers and see what I find works best for me. Thanks again, Paul

Hi - real basic question here! A long long time ago I did a bit of modelling and the choice (I seem to remember) was to use Humbrol enamel paints. Now I'm easing my self back into the hobby and trying to regain some of my old skills (If anyone would call them that), there seems to be a much bigger range of paint manufacturers out there. Whilst I realise a lot is going to be down to personal choice, what would people recommend for painting plastic kits. I'm talking about things from Wills, Ratio, Peco, Parkside etc. Many thanks, Paul

Thanks for the replies - wheels just about to be ordered

Perfect! Thanks v much

Hi Everyone, I am returning to the hobby after a lot of years away! I have laid my Peco code 100 track, but found some of my old stock - specifically Hornby coaches - do not run through the 3 way or medium radius points. The wheels don't run through the small gap between the rail and check rails. I'm guessing a simple wheel swap on my coaches will rectify the problem, but just checking first and seeing if anyone can recommend wheels / axles to go for. Many thanks...

Thank you. I see myself spending a fair bit of time reading those pages, but a quick skim through tells me I'll be fine - I think!

Hello Everyone, I'm returning to modelling after a break of around 25 years, and am struggling with the wiring for this item! I am going for traditional DC, mainly as I understand it better, and I'm on a tight budget. The space I have means I need to use a 3 way as I don't quite have room for 2 "normal" points. I've searched the web but cannot find a good answer to my question, which is how best to wire up my SL-E99, which will use Seep point motors. I understand the wiring to make the motors work and can do that bit with SPDT switches (like the Gaugemaster GM510), but I'm struggling with switching the polarity of the track I've discovered that when the switchblades are set to go "straight on" it works fine, but when switching to either left or right I'm obviously going to have to do something with the wires that come trailing from the 2 frogs to make it work properly, but I can't get my head around it. Has anyone done it with this model of point and could post an exact diagram or information on what to do. Ideally I'd like it so that when I throw my switch (GM510 or similar), then it switches polarity for me too. I understand the concept of isolating rail joiners and sections - it's just this 3 way I'm stuck on! All help gratefully received - be gentle with me! Electronics is not my strong point! Many thanks, Paul