chrismontgomery83

Hi,

Of all of the ones I've seen in real life, the thicker part of the buttress is at the bottom. The wall is most likely to burst at the bottom due to the weight of the material above.

With this kit, it is still possible for the wall to lean backwards, as the majority do, simply flip the buttress over so the thicker part is at the bottom and cut the bottom at a slight angle.

I'm part way through the build at the moment, so If you want to see what I've done, let me know and I'll post up some images for you.

Hi,

Building one of these kits up at the moment, I can confirm that the buttresses do work upside down, I've never seen a wall where the buttresses are thicker at the top that the bottom.

Hi,

All sorted now,

Set CV 154 to 0, then added a delay on CV 273. So now the drain cocks open, the loco starts to creep forwards, the cocks are closed and the loco Chuff's.

Thanks for everyone's input.

FYI also got the 8F doing the same thing

Hi,

So apparently it isn't possible for the loco to move during the drain cocks opening sound is active. A little disappointing as the loco would certainly have been creeping forwards with them open.

Hi,

So I've managed to get the Chuff rate right, and BEMF wasn't need as was suggested.

I'm still having the problem that the loco isn't moving during the drain cock's sound is playing, it only starts to move once this sound is completed, I'd like to be able to get the loco to start creeping forward during this sound file. Anyone out there got any tips on how I would do this?

Video of what I'm talking about

I would also like to know how to disable the automatic sounds when at standstill, they're driving me crazy. I've already consulted the Zimo manual and made some changes here, but the result was either no sound function at all or the automatic sounds still kept playing. I've set them back to what they were originally now. Does anyone know the correct CV and setting number for this.

Thanks in advance

Chris

Hi,

I originally posted up in the questions part of the forum, to which I thought the problem had been solved, but it would appear it hasn't.

So I've now managed to get the chuff's set so that it matches the wheel revolutions, there or there abouts.

The problem I'm having is that the loco remains completely stationary during the initial sound with the drain cock's open, only when this sound has completed does the loco start to move.

Unfortunately I'm not particularly adept at editing CV's so I don't want to edit something unless I know that its the correct CV, as I'm still pretty new to this.

I've managed to record a video of what I'm trying to describe above as a picture/video will speak a 1000 words.

Any questions or tip's I'll be happy to answer.

Video can be found here

Thanks in advance

Hi,

Yeah I figured that they won't all perform the same, if I can tune it so its close back EMF won't be needed.

Thanks again for your help

Hi,

Thanks for that, I tried to adjust cv #302 to 75 for the loco to complete its EMF run but the loco just remained stationary.

I think I will have to invest on a rolling road, as trying to set it up on a small layout is pretty difficult.

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum, and pretty new at tuning CV's in DCC, So I'm hoping there will be someone out there that can provide some advise.

So I've fitted the decoder and speakers in the loco, the loco operates as it should and the sound also works.

There is a slight issue with the timings of the sounds;

1 - When the drain cocks close and the loco is supposed to start moving and then progress onto the next sound file, being low speed chuff's the following occurs

     - Drain cocks sound and close, there is then a slight pause, the first chuff then sounds, then the loco starts to creep forwards.

2 - When the loco is then in motion, the chuff's aren't synchronised with the wheel movement

I'm pretty sure this is just because some settings need to be adjusted slightly, as not every loco runs the same, however I just don't know which CV's I need to adjust and what effect they should have. I assume that it's the back EMF settings that I need to adjust, but I'm no expert.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Chris