WaysideWorks

Here are some pictures!

It has no traction tyres, and bending the rods straight didn't do anything. It happens when the driving axle is in front, so smokebox first. There's little to none sideplay, so that's not it either. And it has done this since running it twice.

Hello!

I have a Hornby 0-4-0 class D industrial, one of those cheapey ones.

It runs fine in reverse, but when I put it in forward it sort of "wobbles".

As in it goes slightly slower and faster every other turn of the wheels.

I think it has to do with the connecting rods, but it could be something else. Can someone help?

TIA.

Hey,

I have a Dapol J94 in which we replaced the old Dapol motor with a Hornby one because the old one was a bit dodgy. Though, the Hornby motor is now interfering with the small mounting bracket in the front. Can I remove this and replace it with something else or can I just leave it out in general?

TIA

On 29/06/2019 at 21:50, friscopete said:

A coreless replacement is due out I gather.

What does that imply? (Not that well versed in motors, I'm afraid.)

14 hours ago, The Johnster said:

I'd be tempted to have a kick back siding in the bottom right corner, Wayside, as it would increase the operating potential and introduce the possibility of more than one loco.  The weight in the loco is needed to improve the very good Kato slow running, holding the small and potentially very light loco down firmly on the track.  Don't know much about lead figures, but military modelling websites should be able to help you.  An alternative is cast whitemetal figures, almost as heavy, from the likes of Dart Castings or Springside, but obviously it would be better for you to source in the Netherlands.  MJT cast figures for 4mm scale marketed by Dart Castings are about £1.80,  2 Euros, but are unpainted.  Painting is not going to be a problem for someone prepared to scratch build a loco!

The track layout was specifically designed to be made from the Peco 009 started pack, which is a better deal than buying the track afterwards. But maybe I'll do that idea later.

Looking for a Kato 11-103 for my narrow gauge project that I'm going to be working on in the winter, so no rush. (Netherlands)

33 minutes ago, RedGemAlchemist said:

Is it just me or is Bulldog apparently a quite common name for Pugbashes? Not just my own No.1, but I've seen several others around the internet with that name.

 

I think it’s just a common name for locomotives for locos in general, the GWR has an entire class named Bulldog, so yea.

My (unfinished) pugbash, Bulldog!

Came up with a new track layout:

1 hour ago, The Johnster said:

I think (ignore my inane rantings if I’m wrong) you mean ‘shunting problem’; a fiddle yard is a non-scenic off stage area to store trains in. 

 

Peco make 009 track, 9mm gauge like their N but with sleeper detailing and spacing more suitable for narrow gauge.  9mm equates to 2’3” gauge in 4mm scale, as used by the Talyllyn, Corris, and Welshpool & Llanfair. 

 

The little tub/tipper wagons are, AFAIK, available from the trade in a generic form (Lilliput?), which gives you the choice of using them, the chassis with 3D printed bodies, or full 3D printing.  The loco can be made out of brass, or pretty much any material you want/think suitable/are able to work with.  Try and get it to be as heavy as you can which will improve the contact between wheels and railhead.  You need good slow speed control for a project like this, and in respect of this I’d go for a lead figure driver modified from wargaming; every little helps and he’s right over the rear axle!

About the fiddle yard thingy, that's completely right. I mixed it up.

I didn't know 009 track existed! Thanks for letting me know.

About the weight of the loco, the Kato 11-103 has good slow performance, so that's not an issue. But I think adding a bit of weight wouldn't hurt. Where could I get one of those lead figures for relatively cheap, seeing as I've got a pretty tight budget?

Hello! 

I’m looking to start building a small 009 fiddle yard in the winter, after I’ve finished my 00 trainset.

Would brass suffice for the shell of the loco?

Are there any tips or things I should/could add/change?

TIA

1 hour ago, Killian keane said:

See my post earlier in this thread 

I did, I'd really love to make it too!

Yet another idea for a pugbash, this time tall chimney time.

Loosely based on this one:

On 01/02/2019 at 19:14, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Folks,

 

Here is the Y6 with cab windows fitted, the windows are made form .030" transparent sheet cut to size, masked off and then the perimeter and edges painted to match the body sides. When the paint was dry I glued them in place with carefully applied PVA.

Unfortunately the photography is worse than usual !

Gibbo.

Wow.

added buffer beamsDSCF0292.JPG

I like the numbering!

I suppose it's turning into more of a scratchbuild than a proper pugbash.

Who cares? It's absolutely wonderful!

Yes the Caley Pug is quite a smooth runner though it will go like a rocket if you turn the power up too far !

 

Unless you use thick plasticard I would make sure you brace it well inside to prevent warping in the future - I made a body for Kerr Stuart KS4421 when I was about your age and 35 years later it's a bit wavy....

Got it.

This might be a silly suggestion, but if cash is a factor, then what you could do is make a cardboard mock-up using cereal packets etc, so you can work out exactly how much styrene you need, and how you plan to mount it on the chassis, and you can get all that development work out of the way without using the styrene etc. which costs money? What I'm thinking is you could get your eye in with the cheap cardboard as practice?

Very good idea!

It should be appreciated that motor bogies like Tenshodo SPUDs are intended for railcar usage. They move at railcar speeds, not at roadside tramway speeds. I did once see a Sentinel steam shunter at an exhibition which was whizzing backwards and forwards at silly speeds due to its SPUD power unit. A better option IMO would be a High Level Kits Flyshunter chassis although that too may blow Wayside's budget but something to bear in mind.

Oh, I'm not really aiming too much for realism. My layout is a preserved line and well, the Y6 isn't preserved!

H Folks,

 

Three more links to compliment the above;

 

https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php

 

https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php

 

I would think that by using the leading dimensions and photographs that the above drawing might be adapted successfully.

 

The Dapol / Hornby L&Y pug would be the best chassis to build from as it has similar wheel diameters and wheel base.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%26YR_Class_21

 

Gibbo.

The L&Y pug is way too expensive. I'm only 15, you know!

If modelling the 0-4-0 G15 with the skirts in situ, I wonder if there is any particular advantage to using a loco chassis?

 

A motor bogie with 12mm wheels and a 26mm wheelbase would be a better fit than even the L&Y Pug, and the lack of motion and the use of disc wheels would not matter. Admittedly this might blow your budget at c.£45.

You're right, but as you said: It will blow my budget. And I already have a spare Caley Pug, so y'know, all I need now is the materials for the rest of the ruddy thing and then I can be on my way.

Hi WaysideWorks,

 

Is this any use to you ?

 

24cb4a131700e70c9ff900f210048ef9.jpg

 

Gibbo.

Oh wow! Thanks man!

It depends on what you want to use it for.  1mm represents 3 inches (or 75mm) to a scale of 4mm per foot.  It would be suitable for footplates, buffer beams and the like but to thick for any components which would need to be bent.  Worth having though, just for stock.

Would it be good for the wood that makes up the "cab"?

Ah, I’ve been looking around on the interwebs and I noticed an A4 sheet of plasticard (1mm) thick. Is that good? Or should I go a bit thicker?