SweenyTod1

Thanks for your input folks. I thought "wobble" was very descriptive of the action of the van, but of course I take your point (sorry!) that reducing the horizontal gap through the crossing "frogs/Vs" would prevent the wheels dropping. That is what I meant by "infill", but I didn't make that as clear as I should , apologies for that. Your remedy is what I shall do, assuming that my colleague with whom I share the layout agrees not to run his Wrenn/Hornby Dublo locos and stock!  I have some suitable microstrip that should do the job, but some diplomacy and negotiation needed first, me thinks.

The Parkside van, when I de-compensated it, was checked on glass, but perhaps I should check the Hornby ones, as I assumed they would be ok .At my age I should know better than assume, but they run happily everywhere else. So onwards and upwards with the joys of model railways with all its idiosyncracies that bedevil my (73 year old) grey cells. Perhaps I should be put out to grass, static, of course!!!!!

Tod

I have three LNER CCTs Two are Hornby, the other Parkside. When I built the latter I compensated one axle, as I thought it would be required on code 100 track, but it didn't like the long insulfrog diamond crossing, derailing most of the time. No problem through any of the pointwork though, so eventually the axle was de-compensated. It still wobbles, but stays on the track. When the Hornby ones came out, I bought one (eventually another) and they also wobble over the crossings. I know code 100 track is not ideal for finer scale wheels, but the layout is old and not worth ripping up to start again. I have the opportunity to operate a code 75 layout and a Parkside version runs happily on that. Perhaps some kind of infill of the frogs to stop the wheels dropping into the "chasm" might be the way to improve things? More ballast weight too? Your thoughts for a happy compromise please.

Tod

4 hours ago, Bedlington North said:

Glad you are sorted...

Do you not consider it slightly odd that the manufacturer doesn't hold spares?

Odd maybe, but he must have his business reasons and I got a very speedy result even so.

Tod

3 hours ago, woodenhead said:

So you spoke to Dave today?

No. It was yesterday. If you read my post, note the 24 hour bit!

Tod

1 hour ago, truffy said:

And he had...information!

Indeed he did and I am very glad of it too. That's what you get when you ask nicely.

Tod

I really must make a comment here of what happened in the last 24 hours.

A friend of mine had bought a J94 many months, if not a year, ago. It ran happily on his layout using a GM dc controller ( as it should). Last Wednesday he took it to another layout with  Kentrol controllers. It ran for a little while, then stopped dead. The instructions which came with the loco says not to use feedback control.

I discovered this info when he brought me the loco to sort out. After all the checks I could think of, I stripped it down to examine the motor. Definitely dead!!

On the phone to Peters Spares, who don't hold any DJM spares, but directed me to speak to Dave direct. This I did, we had a nice chat, but he doesn't have spares either! He passed on all his spares to Digitrains. Soooo, a call to them, puchased a new motor with DCC chip/ blank plate already wired, which I received in less than 24 hours, reassembled the loco. Job's a good'un.

Excellent service all round I'd say, but there's a moral here folks. Kentrol controllers are very good and a shame they are not being made again after the problems they had. They are Feedback controllers and my friend now knows, "if in doubt"read and apply the instructions! 

So there we are, a cautionary tale dear modellers. Enjoy the hobby.

Tod

I had a problem with a T9 and there were two issues. One as described above was the casting fracturing, stopping the gear mesh between the idler gear and worm. This was resolved with a Peters Spares replacement. The second issue I eventually discovered, was that the final drive gear had moved sideways on the axle, so losing contact with the idler gear. The centre part of the axle has splines which grip the boss of the gear. This I cured with a tiny spot of super glue, ensuring first there was no oil or grease present. Stripping down the chassis to get at the gear train isn't easy with tiny wires and pickups getting in the way. To be honest, it's a real pain, but with steady nerves and patience it can be resolved. It took me several attempts before I cottoned on to the loose final drive gear issue.

So if your loco motor spins happily, but the loco doesn't move, then you know now where to look!

 Have fun, keep the faith and your patience!!

Tod

5 hours ago, robertcwp said:

I have been looking at parking and other travel arrangements. York Road multi-storey car park is very close and is £1.30 per hour Mon-Sat and £1.50 for 3 hours on Sunday. It appears that the Spectrum Leisure Centre car park about a mile from the shop is only available for park and ride on Mondays to Fridays, not at the weekend, but the bus stops Mon-Fri very close to the shop. The other Park & Ride services also operate on Saturdays and the buses go to the town centre, which is not a very long walk from the shop. The Merrow Park & Ride bus Mon-Sat (number 300 every 15 minutes) stops by the library, which is not far from the shop. Or, park at Waitrose and do some shopping there, making sure to spend at least £10. Most of the on-street parking nearby seems to be permit holders only, so of no use.

Very helpful thanks. I've just downloaded the bus route map from The Friary Bus Station and it looks like the best options for me are 3, 34 and 35 services. They all go up and hopefully back along Stoke road. I usually park in the Bedford Road mutli-storey, just round the corner from Friary B.S. My duff foot can manage that. If all else fails, a taxi ride is another option, especially if I'm loaded down with goodies!

Tod

I drove past the shop yesterday, but couldn't stop (as they say), no parking there, (double yellow lines). I also passed the nearest public parking places and they are not far to walk for the fit types in nice weather. Anyone with disability may find that an issue though, unless they can be dropped off and collected later. Stoke Road is the best part of a mile long and more or less the shop is in the middle. My brief glimpse as I passed by, I saw lot of box front pictures of locos. Above, the shop name is still for "Pedal Pusher Cycles", yet to be changed.

I also hope it is a great success and I will visit it, but I would question the physical location, especially for the less able folk, no doubt influenced by financial considerations of business rates outside the city centre. Not ideal by any means, Footfall ( sorry) not a major consideration here methinks!

Tod

you're welcome, happy to help. I suggest you contact Squires to ensure they have stock for you. They are most likely to have plenty of stock with them, but I'm sure you know the Law of S-d!

Tod

Hi John,

Squires in Bognor is where I usually get mine, but any of the modelling tool specialists are likely to sell it. It is in an aerosol tin, so there may be posting restrictions. Give them a call 01243 842424, email; sales@squirestools.com or www.squirestools.com

They attend many exhibitions around the country and if you look in the model press their advert shows where they will be trading. Good luck with your locos and Bachmann can supply replacement parts, in case you didn't know. They are very helpful, quick and good prices. Their number is 01455 245575. For my V1/3  Insulated axle centres and gear set was £3.00 plus £2 p&p.

Disclaimer:- No association to the above, just a happy customer.

Tod

I presume you refer to the white nylon stub/isolating bearings, The centre one has the gear moulded to it.

1. With the chassis positioned upside down, strip down the chassis by removing the keeper plate. Lift out  the wheelsets and put the chassis to one side.

2. The wheels can now be separated revealing a square shaft.

3. The new bearings have a square hole but may need a bit of fettling  to slide onto the wheel stub axles. They should be a "push" fit, not sloppy or forced on. The latter will split the bearings (back where you started!). Too loose and the wheels won't stay in gauge. It is essential to ensure the wheels are set with the quartering at 90 degrees. For LNER locos it is right hand side leading. i.e. with the wheels on a flat surface, the right side cranks face forward, the left cranks should point upwards.

4. Back to the chassis, make sure the bearing surfaces are clean, likewise the stub axles. I use Servisol 10 switch cleaner, which is safe on motors and plastics. It will evaporate and leave a fine conductive film on the surfaces.

5.With the wheelsets complete drop them back into the chassis and replace the keeper plate.

All being well, your loco should be a happy runner once more.

I do hope that is helpful as I don't know how much knowledge and skills  you have, so I have kept it a straighforward procedure and should take less than an hour to achieve. Good luck with it and do let us know how it goes. If you need any more advice, come back on here or PM me.

Tod

I used Servisol Super 10 switch cleaning lubricant, "containing greater than 30% Aliphatic hydrocarbons" (what ever they are?) and have had no issues so far. I did this umpteen years ago and its used as a shunter, so it doesn't rack up a high mileage. I bought the loco second hand back in the 70s, so it owes me nothing, but continues to serve. Long may it continue and very likely to outlive me!

Tod

PS Bachmann still can supply new axle bearings/gear. Having recently needed to renew them on another loco,they appear to be a different material.

I found a solution to an old J72 tank with poor running issues. Once stripped down with the wheels out, I found that the axle surface faces had a wax type of residue on them and can only assume that it was applied a preservative, but not being conductive, far from helpful! I cleaned it off abrasively and sqirted switch cleaner on the contact surfaces. Magic! It runs as it should, a bit noisy from the motor, but acceptable. If you have an old split chassis loco that doesn't run well, its worth a look at the axle recesses and the stub axles.

Hope that is helpful.

Tod

Does anyone know when the rest of the first batch will arrive? The GE version has been available for a few week now and the big "H"  suggest by the end of of March for the LNER one. That's today!

C'mon you Oxford spies, where is the container full of goodies?

Tod

Thanks for your replies, very helpful, but I understand there is a family illness that is foremost in his life just now. I will drop him a line, but can understand that my wants may not be top of his priorities. I will post up if/when I am successful (or not).

Thanks again,

Tod

I have to put my hand up here. i couldn't find suitable transfers either, so although it runs with my milk train, it lacks the full description it deserves. There must be some bespoke transfer makers out there somewhere. HMRS do some lettering of similar type, but not enough to cut and shut to spell the words needed.

I think I still have the original box, so hopefully get the contact details for Dan. Fingers crossed he still has a kit available.

Thanks

Tod

Yes I did mean D & S, forgive my old brain! Do you have contacts Dan's details please "Chris"?

Thanks 

Tod

Unmade kit preferred, but would consider made or part made to go with  the parcel/fruit and milk van I made many years ago.

Tod

There is a dearth of Great Eastern, style railway structures. Every time I see the chap who does Prototype card kits, he promises to re-do the signal box in 4mm scale. The 7mm version is available. There is the March West box  available in the Scaledale range, but it it's not the same as the all timber one that still exists at Littleport also in Cambridgeshire {my home town up to the 70s, so I'm biased!} The shelter on the up platform hopefully is till there, also the swing gated crossing, though sadly the main ticket office was demolished years ago. Ahhh memories, memories.................

Tod

On 27/01/2019 at 19:36, steve1 said:

There's some very interesting and useful vehicles there that can represent a fairly 'average' car park or road. That said, the balance is tipped, to my mind, too far toward the esoteric and upmarket end of the scale.

Turning the old sit up and beg Ford Pop into real hot rod could be fun though...

steve

What a shame the Pop's  4-door big brother, the E93A Prefect has not appeared, despite several requests to Oxford and dealers (for customer feedback). In most 1950s photos, they were often in view. A very popular (sorry) family car built from 1938 to the mid 50s. My first car with many happy journeys, despite the three-speed box and vacuum wipers. HEW 5, where are you now?

Tod

So pleased to report that with a little fettling and getting the quartering correct with the right hand crank leading, My V1 is smoothe as silk, back in service on the layout. The body needs to be re-liveried back to LNER, source some brake rods and vacuum pipes to complete the whole project. However in it's late crest weathered condition, it looks good.........for now! Getting it mechanically sound was the main objective and that has definitely been achieved, thanks to Bachmann spares.

Happy modelling,

Tod

I have to thank Bachmann spares folk for their recent service. I have a split chassis V1/V3 tank that had very wobberly front and centre drivers. I found that the insulated bearings had cracked allowing the quartering to fail. One email to ask about availability of getting spares, a response next day with costs/P&P and a phone number to call and two days later, they arrived. I'm surprised they still keep such spares, but delighted they do with excellent and fast service. So a very BIG thank you to you all at Bachmann from me.

Tod

No-one has mentioned the Tyneside electric stock yet, so I thought I would.

M & GN locos would appeal to me as would other ex-GE locos not yet produced,e.g. the E4's sister, an F6 tank. GN of SR locos are very pretty with their different lining.

Boring re-runs are more likely, so when we wake up from this dream, same old s................................. Stuff!  What were you thinking?

Tod

I use Switch Cleaning Lubricant eg Servisol which is great at getting rid of old oil. Spray it on and let it evaporate. 

I have used Servisol 10 quite liberally on motors,gears and anything electrical and never had any issues with plastic attack. I spray point motors in situ and sticky point blade tie bars too. It works a treat.

Happy modelling,

Tod

Minoru.....ah yes, the Hornby A3 where the footplate starts to bend upwards over the cylinders.

 

 

I wonder if there were any 'perfect' models?

 

Ray

Just the one, "Flying Fox" with a lovely straight footplate. Why oh why are the later A3s still being released with the ski ramp? Hornby know about it, but they still churn them out. It beggars belief!!!?

Tod