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Bedlington North

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Posts posted by Bedlington North

  1. 28 minutes ago, Accurascale Fran said:

     

    The problem with a proper coin cell holder is that it takes up a lot of space. 

     

    492346407_image(11).png.16fdbbb205d2327b775843a8f30ab86c.png

    We came up with our own solution in the tipplers to preserve the realistic placement of the floor. PCBs are not a practical solution either as they take up a lot of space and are there for control rather than an alternative to wires.

     

    We have squeezed the above into the HYAs though, thankfully there is room at the ends!

     

    Cheers,

     

    Fran

    Sorry Fran, but  there are other (lower profile) options for a coin holder than the example shown in the picture. That one must represent the worst case scenario in terms of size.

     

    I fully appreciate why you have taken the approach that you did, but the result is fragile and, to me anyway, lacks the high quality approach of the rest of your products.

     

    I say that as someone who is an electronic design engineer that works with very small and delicate components and if I find it fragile, then just perhaps others may also do so.

     

    Your point about PCBs I cannot accept. They are both a practical solution and can take up as much space as they need to. They are not inherently "too big". Adding to manufacturing costs, yes.

     

    In any case. I just wanted to give you my feedback for what it is worth. In any case the wagons themselves are exceptional - no arguments about that!

    • Like 1
    • Friendly/supportive 2
  2. I think Rich is referring to the two plastic lugs which are part of the bed of the wagon. I certainly found great difficulty in getting the coin cell under both these tabs on my wagon. I also had to bend both brass contacts too. If Accurascale include a working tail lamp feature on future wagons I would suggest a rethink. I would personally prefer a PCB along with a proper coin cell holder to replace the ad-hoc wires and bits of metal.

    • Like 3
  3. 1 hour ago, Roy Langridge said:

     

    I think that is the point, Wagpnmaster cant get it and is asking advice on an alternative.

    Roy

    No it isnt the point. He has repeatedly quoted using silver grey which he says is too dark, which it would be seeing as the right colour is silver white.

     

    If he was able to locate a tin of silver white either as old stock or someone had some then he would be sorted...

     

    So it would seem worthwhile him asking or looking for the correct colour first...

  4. You keep referring to the fact you have used silver grey which is too dark, but people in this thread have said that Silver White is the correct colour. So I would suggest you use a tin of that, however your problem may be finding some...

     

    For example Railmatch Silver White is their code 240 in enamel. Seems to be out of production. And I can't see an equivalent on Phoenix's website....

  5. Fallacy or not if you look at one of the pictures the OP posted you can clearly see severe silvering. That means the transfers aren't stuck to the model and anything you do after that is a lottery in terms of the transfer sticking. Quite apart from that, silvering looks rubbish and is simple to avoid by using a glossy surface under the transfer. YMMV, but I've never had any issues with transfers of any brand or age when I've applied them over my favourite gloss (Johnsons Klear).

     

    See two pics of my own aircraft models - literally no evidence of transfer carrier film and the transfers have "melded" into the models surface nicely. They also accepted a sealing coat of varnish with no problems.....

    GUVs.jpg

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  6. Your transfers look to me as though they have "silvered". This is caused by air trapped under the transfer film. You should apply the transfer over the most glossy surface you can to allow the transfer to grip the surface of the model and exclude air. 

     

    Are you just applying the transfers directly over the blue paint or are you applying a clear gloss coating of some kind prior to transfer application? 

  7. Thanks for the explanation but it's not necessary for me. I travelled on the first day of service and I am well aware of the intent of the service (even though cranks have been regular travellers on the service...)

     

    Like I said, their hire of a 37/4 set a precedent and surely if you are going to hire in a last minute replacement to haul Mk3 carriages then it is always preferable to have something with ETH capability in case your other loco fails. Your passengers would very quickly give a hoot on a warm summers day sitting in an airless, hot carriage due to no aircon and no opening windows (droplights excluded).

     

    All I meant to say was that they have done it before, therefore it's not impossible to think they might do it again...

  8. 6 hours ago, broseley28 said:

    Why doesn't he  pack it in and let a younger person have a go? I'm in Tasmania, don't  they have pensions over there? 

     

    That's a lovely sympathetic viewpoint there. 

    • Agree 16
  9. On 31/07/2020 at 11:06, Phil Parker said:

    My favourite came from the model boat world. One kit manufacturer had a model brought in because the builder said he'd followed the instructions and it didn't work. The ship arrived on the desk with a thump and on inspection, the hull was full of Blue Circle's finest product. It seems the instructions about cementing parts in place hadn't entirely been understood...

     

    To be fair truth is often stranger than fiction. In the 1970s/80s and 90s a very popular British made kit of an R/C yacht had a plastic moulded hull with integral keel. The manufacturer had the modeller add builders cement into the keel cavity and then add water to create the keel ballast. This was the Duplex (then Lesro) 575.

    • Informative/Useful 1
  10. On 05/07/2020 at 13:50, great central said:

    Couldn't you use the kitmaster/airfix, Dapol kit version. Plenty of them around for a £few

    Like the OP, I have been looking for a donor J94 body yo put an etched chassis under. Hornby bodies seem expensive on Ebay and the Kitmaster version non-existent. I understand that the mould tools were destroyed in a fire at Dapol in the 80s.

     

    If you can point out a source for these kits it would be much appreciated...

  11. 45 minutes ago, D1051 said:

    i went down that road. & waited 3 weeks. You take your chance.

    3 weeks is hardly the end of the world if it makes a non-running model into a runner....

    • Agree 4
  12. Ultrascale are already offering a replacement gear service for many RTR models. Including some Heljan models. Those items look like they are from stock, avoid the long lead time. They are willing to make up new gears to customers requirements so that sounds like a better solution than replacing a defective Heljan plastic gear with another potentially defective Heljan plastic gear....

     

    https://ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/CAT015#RTRRG

    • Informative/Useful 2
  13. Even if he had full access to the J94 toolingto make further batches, there's no guarantee they would have been good sellers. Given the inconsistencies in running qualities of the existing models it's likely that he would have lost money on future runs. Or had to pay out more cash upfront to fix the chassis. 

    • Agree 2
  14. Sorry but I did mention the Gaugemaster handheld in my first post in this topic. While I accept that this might properly be called the model W, a quick Google search for Gaugemaster handheld shows the device I was talking about.

    While you are correct that a version of this model is available with a black fascia plate that incorporates feedback, every online listing of this product I have found has the term "with feedback" in its description. I would suggest that makes it clear which version is suitable for the OP's needs and also very clear which version isn't suitable?

  15. Doesn't PWM make a higher pitched buzzing sound? Is it not more likely to be unsmoothed, rectified AC as this is cheaper and easier (and more likely I'd have thought) to make.

     

    The Gaugemaster unit doesn't have feedback. Again it's a simple device!

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