Traintresta

On 09/01/2022 at 11:47, hayfield said:

That's a shame as the only thing that comes close to looking like a prototypical turnout are Wayne's very easy to build kits "British Finescale" or the EMGS ready built turnouts but they are in EM gauge

 

I must admit there are some disciplines within the hobby I don't enjoy, but they its the wide amount to variety of things that make up a layout which keeps our interest 

I quite agree but I think this is one I may struggle with.  I might move on and come back to it at a later date.

16 hours ago, hayfield said:

What Part(s) are you having difficulty with?

I'm not fining it particularly difficult, I just haven't enjoyed it.  I have to admit its starting to look really nice but I'm struggling to get motivated to go back to it.  I think I have realised that I am much less about detail and more about the ability to construct something functional.

I have progressed my first effort, but I have to say I have not enjoyed the process at all!  I still need to put the switch rails and check rails for the frog but so far I have found this hard going and have found myself reaching for the copper clad....

Thank you all for the advice. 
 

I’ve considered this a bit more and think it would be a waste to throw in the towel before really giving this a proper go. I think I’ll order some of the exactoscale chairs from the EMGS and persevere at least with this switch and see how I feel. 

9 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

If you belong to either the EMGS or the S4 society, you can get the Exactoscale turnout chairs all on one sprue and enough for several turnouts all in one pack. Do remember that the EM gauge chairs have a 1mm flangeway gap and the S4 have 0.86mm gap.

 

 

I’m working to OO-SF so EM chairs wouldn’t be a problem.  I feel like I’m giving in too quick but I know within copper clad I can get up and running reliably and quickly. 

I had another look at the C&L website and it appears I forgot to ask for the slide chairs to be added into my order.  I also forgot to obtain some check chairs, which I was going to do from the EMGS, but by the time I add it all up and think of the time it will take, I’m not so sure I want to continue. 

I’m very quickly getting the feeling that track is less of a special interest to me than I thought and the idea of copper clad construction really does appeal so much more than it did before.
 

50 minutes ago, David Bigcheeseplant said:

Have you tried Michael Clarks Masokits system where the chairs are formed from a etch and use copperclad sleepers.

 

David

I had seen those when I researched point kits but thought using plastic parts might be easier. Despite my experience of laying copper clad track, I tend to work in plastic for almost everything else so I thought I’d go that route with track work. 
 

it’s early days yet and I’m still learning so I might explore the options. 

19 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

My advice, if you've not handbuilt several turnouts, is to start with copperclad construction as this will get you into a method that suits you. It's also easier to adjust, if you get things a bit out. You can use these in the fiddleyard.

 

I start by constructing the V, then add the straighter of the two stock rails, then the curved stock rail, don't forget the SET  in the curved rail for the switch, marked on the Templot template. I then add the switch/closure rails. Finally, I add the check rails, some add these before fitting the stock rails, using the checkspan gauge.

 

I have built plenty of points using copper clad construction, hence I’m tempted to go back to that as I know how to do it well. 
 

9 minutes ago, Izzy said:

If you look through the hand built track & Templot section here you will I think find plenty of help with regard to basic bullhead construction using chairs. @hayfield has just added a thread which is probably all you need.

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/168596-easy-and-cheap-built-turnout-point/

I did do a search and found very little bit didn’t think to do the obvious and check that section of the forum. Thanks for the nudge. 

I've stuggled with this for too long, I have finally come up with a plan for something relatively familiar (the town I live in) that has potential for growth/expansion, if and when the space becomes available but it has taken years to get to this point.  I have found that focusing on a real place, where I am constrained by the layout of the real thing, has really focused the mind.

I'm glad it's not just me!

I'm planning a layout at present, I've got it mostly sussed but have to get on with it.  I'm not planning to have to start over because I haven't the time.

I definitely relate to this!!! In fact, these things take soo long, I rarely finish anything and it's so bloody frustrating!

I'm a year older than you, been modelling a very similar length of time, similar experience.  In fact I think of the time I spent building airfix kits as a kid as serving my apprenticeship, but of course, as you say, that only leads to the situation you (and I ) are both experiencing.  Even worse, when thinking about the next thing, I spend so much time planning it, I have a mental list of projects waiting to be started, let alone a completed!

9 hours ago, Dave Holt said:

The Ivatt Black 5 model is by Comet, but was a full loco kit, rather than just a chassis or valve gear kit.

As a matter of interest, I also have a BR Standard  Caprotti Class 5, with the outside drive shafts you mentioned earlier. The centre axle drive gear box and slide bars are from the DJH kit but all the shafts, universal joints, reversing gear boxes, brackets, etc., are home made from brass sheet, wire and tube.

 

 

Dave.

That's starting to look like the way to go since I can't afford either a whole comet loco kit or a DJH kit. any pointers on how to do this?

Thanks for the replies. I suppose that makes modelling it easier. I went looking for valve gear yesterday but I can only find the comet crab chassis with reidinger gear.

Where does the rotary drive come from on this version of the Caprotti valve gear? On the later Ivatt class 5's and the BR standards there is a drive shaft from the centre axle outside the coupling rods that goes to the cylinders, but I cannot see anything similar on these. 

I had never realised that the Lima Deltic was in 3.5mm scale fortunately I'm not modelling Deltics, although I have an excellent little book on the Deltics which, out lines some alternative applications. These are all very interesting and I may one day get around to modelling one or two, meaning I will eventually need Deltic body shells son its good to know what's right and what's not.