wasdavetheroad

Mmm! I have just started building a prototype of a tension lock hook lifter using servos. early tests prove the concept works for 00 scale wagons and bogie coaches. to allow the coupler to work as normal I have used some polyester sewing thread to give a flexible connector between the servos and the coupling hook extension. I bought my servos from Micron Radio control http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/servo.html I think I will start a topic when I have done more testing and learn how to make some simple video of the stuff working It will be in the radio control section because that is what I use but no reason why DCC should not work as well.

That looks really good. what volts does the motor need and does it come with the gearbox?

do you get a lot of sun on the door? If you do it will get roasting in the cavity and those little buzzers won't like that. I left a gap under the door as well, glad I did it as we had rain of biblical proportions that flooded through the garage, at least it had a means of escape. I have since constructed an enormous flood barrier 2 inches high!

Before you build your stud wall secure the door to the walls with metal brackets to enhance security and screen any largish gaps to stop wasps etc building a nest in the void behind the stud wall. It is probably best to have some trickle ventilation anyway

Thanks for the info. Electro magnets might be in the project as well as you can buy really tiny ones. I will take a look at the continental ones

That's useful to know, I am just starting an on vehicle uncoupling project and hope to use servos

I see the future for model railways control like this, a 'decoder' which; uses DCC protocols for commanding the loco etc if that is what the market wants is user switchable to receive its commands via the track or via radio for power seamlessly auto switches between the track or onboard battery (consider it a stay alive) will recharge the battery from the track if needed With this there is no need for any rivalry about which system is best You can run pure DCC with track power or run pure BPRC with battery power or run hybrid DCC/BPRC with considerably simplified track wiring. Your choice

The RC batteries I use can have fully charged voltages of 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, 10.8 using single cells wired in series. Nominal voltages are given as 3.7, 7.4, 11.1 etc. The batteries all lose voltage as they discharge, a single cell starts at 4.2V and falls to 3V which is considered as discharged. Voltage regulators are very useful if you want or need a constant voltage and essential if you want to consist.. The RC style batteries as used for model trains are not stressed in use or recharge as they are when used for model planes or drones.

When I was checking out consisting for my radio controlled locos ( I want some locos to double head) I checked out how they did it in the old DC days. In simple terms it will be fine if the locos don't have wheel spin or skid. On DCC wiki they suggest speed matching within 10% will be fine. I have a pair of Hornby 2P 4-4-0's which can double head and they had a difference of about 5% out of the box. Of course with DC the two locos will run slower with a given controller setting. For me the advantage of DCC would be simpler layout wiring and much better control of the individual locomotives, you are driving the loco, not the layout. As I model the late 50's/early 60's I have no need for lighting and as I have music or the radio playing no need for sound either. I disassembled my extensive DC n-scale layout several years ago and moved to 00 scale. As I had played around with radio control I followed that option, however if I had decided not to use radio control I would choose DCC rather than DC simply because of less wiring and more realistic control of locomotives.

Here is cab control and common return, the SPDT is the key. SPDT means single pole double throw. If I remember correctly each controller needs its own transformer.

This should work for 2 operators

Even easier would be to use some chocolate box connectors that plug into each other. " connectors with the prongs make the token key and there are a pair of connectors for each operator to plug the 'token' into

How far apart will your 2 operators be? You could use a token key, each operator has a switch for the final track feed to the central section. This switch is operated by 'inserting' the key. To pass control switch OFF and pass the key to the other operator who uses it to switch ON. Some mechanical jiggery-pokery to ensure the key can only be removed or inserted if the switch is OFF might be needed, or you could trust each other!. A slide switch would be easiest.

Here is a good guide to servicing a Lima pancake motor https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&qpvt=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&view=detail&mid=4D20ACD6E32F295868464D20ACD6E32F29586846&FORM=VRDGAR You can also fit a CD type motor inside the Lima motor casing

I find the Dapol wagons perfectly acceptable for how I run my layout and I have over 100 of them but very few Bachmann or Hornby. I don't notice the brake levers/blocks at a couple of feet on a moving train and the other main issues can be fixed. Reasonably priced packs of 20 wheelsets allows replacement of wobbly wheels and there are fixes for the floppy couplers and loose coupling hooks. They are reasonably priced at about half the cost of a Bachmann or Hornby model and even cheaper if you buy the unpainted version and paint them yourself. We are lucky that Dapol produce them as there is very little available from Bachmann/Hornby for the 1950's and early 60's. If I wanted to have a 30 x 16 ton coal wagon train tough cos they are not available. My Dapols chassis is too long so the train is 5 inches longer than it should be but I don't notice that. Maybe I find the suspension of disbelief easier than some and that helps in our miniature world full of compromises.

These are works in progress extended and modified Metcalfe kits with Scalescenes papers

Oops, that should be a 3mm spacer between the chassis and the top of the NEM coupler box. Actually nearer 2.8mm