Mburdett555

Yes bit of a sloppy job on my part but as I plan to add headlights etc I thought it best to just motorised one end that's going to be made from salvaged hst parts anyway. Middle coach will be interesting indeed as It will need more cosmetic work , whereas with the rest of it I'm just repsraying and repeat

Ok thanks. Unfortunately due to the nature of the 442 resin cabs fitment, I had to cut off one end of the MK3 so it no longer has clips at one end. I'll have to wire it up and then glue the whole thing in I think.

Will try that, guessing you glued the rest of the undercarriage in as well ? Or found some way of connecting it to the motor part? Was planning on putting lights in, look forward to my soldering breaking and tearing the thing apart lol

As you can see from the photos I am in the process of converting a mk3 to Gatwick Express class 442. While the rest of the consist will suffice with the original bogies, I need to motorise a vehicle for it to run by itself. To do this, I have cut up a ringfield class 43 and used the motor bogie retaining plastic and attempted to glue it to the MK3. As pictured. The clips will be retained so that it fits into the body shell still. However I've tried a few types of glue and they're not strong enough to hold the two parts together, putting the motor in is quite heavy and lifting the unit the undercarriage starts to sag. Has anyone else got a better way of motoring a carriage like this? I don't have a 3d printer... Thanks

Anyone know where the power car number goes on the midland Pullman hst power car?! 😆

Stuffed some revel plasto in the hole, drilled and painted. Sloppy paint job but looks ok.

So I'm repainting one of my old Hornby ringfield HST intercity 125 into Midland Pullman because I'm too cheap to buy one. Obviously the headlights are way wrong and what I need is to replace the plastic unit with something a bit more modern, What do you chaps do ? I'm guessing there isn't a replacement that slips right into the socket, I'm guessing I need some sort of plastic filler that I smother into the hole and then drill the new LED holes to my requirements? Pic attached. I don't have white / silver paint yet hense the poor paint job on the white parts at the guard compartment. Nor do I have a spray brush, just a regular paint brush but still a nice job for my days off work. I could probably get away with using the horn grill but the lights need to be circular, two on each side.

Perfect thanks. Soldered the rear bogie directly to the motor for the time being for purpose of running it in, runs well but traction tyres brittle and broken off, I recall seeing some posts about replacements on the above linked threads so will have a gander.

Thanks a lot. I think most of the wiring is there just not in tact.

Hi I've bought a spares repairs triang class 81 from a local antiques shop, only to find it appears to be powered by the pantograph only? I can't see any pickups on the loco only method of collection is via the two pantographs. The motor itself runs fantastic, lots of life left on the pickups, and commutator looks very hardly used. However unfortunately I can't use it as it is. Going to try and add DC power collection via the rails. Does anyone know for certain this is panto only or if there is some sort of hidden magic in that it works with rails too? The wiring is a mess and it didn't come with a service sheet. Photos attached. I can see there is an R753 service sheet online but the motor isn't the same.

Thanks very much for the responses, will buy some and see how well it goes.

I'm looking for somewhere that sells really thin diameter wire, the sort you'd use to wire up nano LEDs like on a diroama etc. The stuff im using now is the sort of diameter wires you'd get in the old stuff like 1970s Hornby hst etc. Thin, but the insulation is not thin enough. Not flexible enough to be discrete with cab lighting and stuff like that. I want something ultra thin but needs to be insulated obviously so it doesn't short. Where do you chaps buy your wire? I've been on eBay but I'm not entirely sure exactly what diameter im after. On a related note, rather than wiring up all my LEDs in series (I'm looking to wire up 4 marker lights - two front and two back) on an older locomotive with no DCC or anything. What's the best way to wire up LEDs? I'm thinking just a consecutive wire, from the pickup / positive on the motor through 4 LEDs 2 front two back + cab light, and return it to the ground. Is that acceptable, or is there some sort of circuit board I can buy that takes positive and return from the motor and then distributes the power to multiple wires? I'm doing this in a triang dock shunter hense the need for thin wires, space is limited. Im doing something similar to what someone did a while back where they rebuilt a port dock shunter using a smokey Joe motor and spare parts from kids toys. Except with mine I want lights. I've got most of the bits. Thanks

Unfortunately having purchased some R8097 (unnecessary as this project is now completed anyway), it looks like both ends of the axles are isolated, so I can't collect power via the axle. However I have bought some pickup strips which should align reasonably well with the top of the wheel so that should be a sufficient alternative to collecting power from the axle. Unfortunately this is going to require some work as triang didn't make it easy to remove the bogies ! My plan to use the spare wheel set is to make double bogie power collection on the driving vehicle.

My apologies for creating such a pointless thread. Upon continuity testing with my multimeter it does indeed have one isolated wheel on each axle. Very difficult to tell as I thought it was all metal . Train now works fine. Bogie rides a bit low with the shallower flange... Hopefully doesn't cause any problems.

Hi, I'm looking to switch my deep flange original triang Dmu power bogie wheels to a shallower variant. One better suited for code 100 track. So I've spent £25 on eBay (similar cost to what John's amazing trains charges for reprofiling IIRC), and bought some shallow flange Dmu wheels. However having fitted them, the motor doesn't work. It looks like a short. The only obvious difference that I can see, is that the gear on the axle on the ones I've bought is plastic rather than metal as we're the old ones. Has anyone else had this issue? I assumed the wheels would drop right in... Is it a problem with the wheels or should I change the gears over so they're metal on the new ones?