Guinotmac

Thanks Suzie - if the LED doesn't change colour, then that's not my problem. The LED is lit up and always has been - I just thought maybe the yellow showed a fault somewhere but clearly not. Back to the drawing board ...................

I have 1 Lenz LS152 facia panel and 2 other ordinary DIN sockets installed on my Xpressnet network. Whilst working on the layout, I have developed a short which, to date, I haven't found. I've removed all stock, vacuumed the layout and visually checked almost everything. By chance, I noticed that the LED on the LS 152 was showing yellow - shouldn't this be green ? If that is the case, then it appears my problem might be with the Xpressnet rather than a short on the layout. If I'd taken advice earlier, I'd have created some power districts and installed a few PSX 1 circuit breakers although I'm not sure an Xpressnet problem would have been identified by them. In short (pardon the pun), should the LS152 be showing a green LED if all is in order ?

Thanks both - you're absolutely correct in that the 3 rail version wouldn't require a polarity change ! Why didn't I realise that .......???? I had read that manual kevinlms - it just didn't register that the turntable was for AC operation - I just assumed that was an option (and you're dead right in that "designed for" and "option for" have different meanings ......................I simply didn't pick up on it). Off to find a suitable DPDT switch now - should have one "in a box" somewhere. If I can't find it, then I'm sure the smiley arrow company can provide one within a couple of days - even here in France.................

Thanks for your input both of you - I have indeed seen those videos GWR Fan and yes, that handbook too Cypherman but many thanks for your pointers all the same ........... Both relate to what is I suspect, a later model of the turntable. It looks virtually the same - the only difference I've spotted (apart from that "extra" wire) is the inlay between the rails on the bridge. The one you've shown (Model No. 6152) has a removable centre piece to access the fixing screw and a further removable plate to access the oiling points for the motor. Mine has 2 long metal plates, each half the length of the bridge between the rails, held in place by a central screw. In addition, it has the extra white wire coming from the bridge which, as I said, is to feed power to the centre stud contacts used by Marklin on their 3 rail system. To clarify - my available wires are as follows: From the switch to the turntable a triple wire ribbon - 1 red, 1 yellow, 1 grey (presumably for the motor, the aligning system and, I thought, polarity change. From the switch to separate power supply: 2 wires taking 12v DC power to the turntable itself - 1 black, 1 white. From the bridge (deck): 3 wires - 2 yellow in ribbon, 1 white. The 2 yellow wires feed track power to the bridge - 1 + and the other -. The "extra" white wire is not used on a 2 rail system. Had it been 3 rail, then both yellow wires would have been connected to + and the white (centre rail) connected to the -. I experimented with a blob of solder on the rail ends of a "spare" outlet track to try for a more positive contact between the bridge wipers and outlet rails - it worked !!! I proceeded to add a blob of solder to each of the outlet tracks I'll use and now have power fed to each one from the bridge - Problem 1 controlled (for now at least). I still don't get a polarity change although I'd have thought this was one of the main factors with turntables and one at this price should surely have a built-in system for doing so. I wonder, not being totally au-fait with electrickery, could this be because the layout is DCC but the turntable was originally designed for DC operation .....??? The above video doesn't actually explain WHY he's using a DPDT switch. I'll do some testing to see if, during a complete revolution, polarity changes anywhere. If not, then I'll have to add a DPDT switch to the circuit - and remember to throw it at the half-way stage ...... !!! I'm grateful for all your help guys. Cheers Peter

John (Brit 70053), thank you for your input. Am I to understand from your comments about polarity, that your turntable wasn't actually reversing polarity at the mid point ? You say "so I found it necessary to fit a DPDT switch to have control over polarity" or was it simply that the factory installed half-way point on the turntable didn't match your positioning of the unit on your layout ? I hadn't thought of that possibility ........ Regarding the 3 rail option, AFAIK, it was designed for use with the Marklin stud contact system. With that system, both yellow bridge feed wires are connected to one side of the track power and the "spare" white wire I mentioned is connected to the other. I'm guessing the bridge studs are an "accessory" because my bridge is a simple 2 rail bridge so the "spare" white wire is just ignored - it doesn't do anything (hopefully....). Regarding contact between the "v" shaped bridge wipers and the rail stubs on the outlet tracks - see my previous post - i.e they are clean and true although obviously not making proper contact for some reason .......................... Having looked again at my "switch", mine doesn't have the "hut/non hut" option for power - this must have been an update for a later model turntable. My switch is exactly as that shown in Cypherman's post above - just the directional arrows imprinted. I'll check the contacts between bridge and outlet tracks again but did wonder if putting a blob of solder on the outlet track stubs might create a more positive contact .............

Many thanks for your replies you two. Cypherman, I'll re-check the connections at the track ends but I've cleaned both the rail tabs and "inverted v" shaped wipers attached to the bridge so everything is clean. As for touching - I can't guarantee that because I can't see under there !! I could maybe try using a mirror - I'll do that. Regarding polarity, I've read elsewhere, and indeed Brit 70053 in the post following yours, it is suggested that a DPDT switch is installed in the circuit. There wasn't one when I bought the layout and, as you say, I'd have thought, at the price of these things, polarity change would be built in.

I have a Fleischmann turntable which I bought with a layout. From research, it appears to be Model No. 665201 which offers a 3 rail option. My layour is DCC. I powered the deck with track power via the two yellow wires. The 3 wire set from the switch (DC power) turns the table in both directions without any problems. There is a "spare" single white wire which I think powers the third rail if one has a 3 rail system (Marklin or the like) The 2 problems I have are - a) Most of the connecting tracks from the table do not appear to be getting power fed from the deck and b) Do I need to install a polarity reversing device - I appear to get a short when the loco tries to exit the turntable onto the layout. I'd assumed the turntable itself took care of polarity ............. From the German instructions, it appears one can choose which end of the deck feeds power to the link rails - "hut end" or "non hut end" - does this matter ? Maybe somone on here can help out.