Richard Wills

If you look at this later variant , you can see how much sharper it looks and also how dense the skin is . No paint or varnish of course . The wood "coal" was fun . I tried coal and it was too contrasting and detracted from the wood look . So I chopped wood , coated it in PVA then hit it with the paint stripping heat gun . it scorches the wood to give contrast and sets the PVa like jam . The funny thing about the wood one is - most people prefer it .! Even the crew at Epping and Ongar Railway like the wooden one best . Horses for courses I suppose .

This was the first wooden prototype which sat in the sun for over a year . The wood had not been treated at all or sealed as it was only a stepping stone model . You can see a couple of little cracks but as I said, this wood is very light and grainy . The wood I use for the latest version is very dense and being a composite in its own right (at least two bonded skins) it cannot separate to form cracks . This version also had 3D printed Cylinders . Although, the people that like the wooden version , like as much real wood as possible , so I have reverted to wooden cylinders for them .

Very good points indeed . In the model aircraft world (sorry to keep mentioning it ) we have been using wood for over a century . But as you say . the wood has been traditionally sealed with tissue and dope which bridges any developing gaps and helps to form a resilient composite . material . In my scale aircraft , I have used (and influenced hundreds of others ) brown wrapping paper pasted on with PVA just like when you wall paper . PVA is heat reactive so you can even iron it on . The PVA soaks into the paper and the wood to give an eggshell like finish which is very strong . However , those models would be outside for hundreds of flights over say 5 years . Including rain sometimes . Our indoors models suffer nothing like that . I had one of the prototype trains in the window of a very hot and sunny room and the boiler did crack a little . But I was using obechi veneer at the time , which is less dense and much lighter than the marine ply used in the current version . This high quality marine ply needs only a little sanding sealer or varnish to make it pretty much bullet proof . In fact when I made the three coloured Locos I did cover the first boiler with brown paper as I was concerned about the finish (not the cracks with this wood) , but by the third one it was a quick varnish , then primer then red aerosol . I could have got a better finish if I had only one to make , but seven in one go is a challenge !

As you say , many models disappear over the years . especially one offs or short production runs . Its a shame really . Because maybe if more people had seen the models you mentioned in 1975 , we might now have a whole selection of wooden locomotive models to choose from . At the moment I have two on Display at the Swindon Steam Museum and a further two at Didcot . Both appropriate as Swindon was obviously where the Halls were built and Didcot , has just had a visit form Pitchford Hall .

So obviously you have figured out that I am building quite a few models form the same kit . Each one has slight differences and definitely different finishes . My point is that wood is very versatile . Look at the picture above of the Tender in particular . Clever yes , nice wood , yes . Some people just love the wooden one . In the same way that a wooden ship is rather beautiful . The shape + wood texture and colour is acceptable as a rather detailed show piece . However , to the pure modeller it doesnt look real . How about this then ? Same model , primed , painted and pva glue rivets added . There are still details to be added like the cab number , but you can see the potential . In fact , I was looking at the other thread on here showing the realistic photos taken . Absolutely stunning . I certainly would choose a heavily weathered model in the right setting . Imagine the effect you can create at this scale . I did the lining in vinyl . Its quick and much cheaper than waterslide .

Even in the bare wood , the boilers look very slick . As I said , the very fine grain is not intrusive and the different shades of wood and scorched highlights add depth .

Going back to the wood curving . For one offs , you just need to make up some doughnut type rings to hold the boiler skin in shape while you heat it up or soak it . I prefer the heating method . Its pretty instant and once cool , it stays "set ". You could tape it to a bottle or anything that doesnt mind the heat . As I had to make a few (and perhaps go on making them ) I made a tube outer jig . The skin tries to straighten out so naturally fill the inside of the tube uniformly . The stepped joint is great for adding glueing area . Finally I add an extra strip on the inside of the zig zag . Heat gun or pop in an oven then allow to cool . You can see below that I'm very consistent on it .

One of the interesting little illusions that we can create in no time at all , is rivet detail . The easiest way is just to put a penny size blob of PVA (decent stuff like the white Gorilla Glue or the PVA by Evostik ) , onto a piece of card . using the card as a Palette , you just dip a cocktail stick in to get a small drop, then drop it onto the primered surface . Because the glue is quite thick , it forms a sort of half sphere . Plus if you get it wrong , just wipe it off . You can do a load of rivets in no time at all . Below you can see the Red *"HOGWARTS" version that my nephew wanted as he is massive fan . On reflection I didnt spend too much time getting the rivets exactly right as I knew he just wanted "The train from the film " . You get the idea though . The cab roof should have had more small rivets really but since I never really wanted to make a red loco , I was in a rush !

Exactly Jeremy . you've got a great example of multiple material and technique building right there . By doing that ,you have increased your affordability and therefore your options . (I like your track too!) Imagine the cost of building a metre long Loco in either metal or 3D printing . Off the scale ! You can buy a nice electric powered kit for about £3000 , but you can build a near identical wooden loco for a few hundred . If you want it to work , you could probably throw a £1000 at it and have a running chassis that would still leave you with money in the bank . (quite a lot of money -£1500)

High quality marine ply is far superior to the stuff you see in Band Q . Consequently , it is more expensive . However , as modellers , even at this scale , it is good value . The endplates are made of 3mm , as is most of the loco . This is a useful thickness as formers are stiff enough in their own right , but it doesnt look too clumsy . The whole idea of using different materials , I could write a book on ! In many aspects of modelling we stick to the same format . For example , if you look at large scale plastic modelling , they are currently paying £500 for a largish Lancaster Bomber (I think 1/24) . As you would expect , the model has many parts and of course the moulds for those parts is why it is expensive . However Imagine if I could present a Lancaster kit at twice that size for the same money ? They would be very tempted when they saw the complete and painted model , but then real back in horror when they found it was made of wood and 3D printed parts . The two comments would be : "Its not a proper kit" or "I dont know how to work with wood " . Thats why I like your questions . We need to understand that wood is very easy to work and modify and also that people who are already modelling in many forms have most of the skills they require already . 3D printing is another good example . I do it when I want small details . But those who think that 3D is everything , print whole models . That takes hundreds of hours and is not the best way if the shape is large and straight forward . A perfect model of anything really should be made of a number of materials for maximum time and money efficiency . Below is a good example , my 100" wingspan of a Lancaster , made mostly of balsa wood , a little plywood and powered by electric motors but with sound . It looks and flies totally realistic and yet clearly is an illusion wearing a skin . The funning thing is , if it was made of alloy it wouldnt leave the ground and wouldnt be strong enough if it could ! Again , you can see that the structure must be right for the job , not necessarily the same as the full size . Its the skin and paint that is critical .

Yes Jeremy , of course , High quality marine ply comes in various thicknesses. Traditionally they came in imperial sizes . So for the thinner laminates 1/16th " . 1/32" and 1/64th" are used . The model aircraft world where I usually reside tend to use 1/32nd a lot . It gets used where strength is required and is quite often used to stiffen softer wood . In this case 1/64th is used because the rather fine roof supports (as per the real thing ) would struggle to keep 1/32nd sprung to a curve . Whereas 1/64th doesnt put up much of a fight when you bend it . Once you appreciate that even something as thin as 1/64th is still a laminate of two different skins and glue in the middle like a jam sandwich that has congealed over the years and gone stiff . Now , if you heat the jam up with heat gun then wrap it round a bottle while it cools , it will lock into a new curved shape. The ply skin is just one piece of ply as is the boiler skin that you will soon see . . This thin ply is incredibly strong and does not need much support . You would certainly never get the "starved horse look " as the skin itself has fantastic integrity . When I make the boilers which are around 12" long without firebox , the join runs down the underside but there is only a former in each end . Yet you can whack one on the table and nothing happens . The non plywood parts (90%) are made of Tulip wood which is a kind of Poplar . It has a finish which has a little more grain than the marine ply , but its still quite fine and easy to prime for painting . It has a nice colour if we consider that many people just like the wooden variant. Just to make sure I have answered you question on the firebox . I build the skeleton (it clips together ) dab some superglue on the joints (time spent about 2mins so far ) then bulldog clip the skin to one of the bottom rails . I then heat up the skin with the heat gun and wrap the skin right round the frame . The skin by then has taken on roughly the shape with the two tight top corners being locked into the skin when it cools . I then just run a little wood glue under the skin and put some elastic bands round it . Its actually easy once you realise that while hot , the wood is flexible. The boiler and firebox will be pre made for anyone that wants to follow me on this venture so really , the build would just plugging lugs into holes . However for people who want to experiment with this wood then ask "Balsa Cabin " in Maldon, Essex , to send you some 1/64th ply to play with . It has loads of uses . 1/32nd is less flexible but cheaper .

Hello Chris . Nice to hear a voice from the woods 😁. I like your points . Particularly about wood being a 2D medium and also being difficult to maintain accuracy without skill . Laser cutting makes alignment a piece of cake for those that follow the prototype . So its fine if someone puts in the donkey work first . On the other hand , wood is one of the easiest mediums to work with . I can see why you mention 2D . Those clever but rather skeletal models you see imported from China that are fire engines or even locos ,have a flat pack look about them . The illusion is not complete because as you say , they are clearly made from flat pieces like a jig saw . I think with all modelling of trains , cars , planes or buildings , it doesn't matter what its made of . The litmus test for me is "does it look believable"? Also I think once you accept that wood is easy to modify and work with then you have many more options . For example , somebody might take one of these Hall Class designs and adapt it to make a Black 5 . Surely easier to start with half a story than none at all ? At the moment , nobody offers English Locos and yet several companies tout American and European display models . Surely with our massive railway heritage , we should be well represented ?

The trouble with me is , its a bit like chocolate biscuits.......... I just cant stop at one !

Back to the build .its the Cab next . Pretty straightforward really . It ends up being nice and stable once the firebox is firmly mounted . You can see the moun t in the third picture . Plenty of scope for detail too at this size . Ive tried various options . A vacformed plastic facia is quick and effective , but Ive also tried 3D "wood printed " , which gives very sharp definition of pipes and controls . This can be enhanced by adding some .........2.5mm electrical cable stripped of its covering . Does a very good impression of copper pipe and really catches the eye . The cab roof does really need a little preforming . But its a gentle curve so heating or soaking works fine . The last shot is obviously the full size . I will post some of the options mentioned above later .

We are a way off from finishing the model , but I did take time to mock up this unfinished model to show exactly how big this loco is . However ,It fits comfortably on most window sills , or a nice metre long shelf on the wall . I guess what it reminds us of , is how small 00 is . Something we all grew up as viewing as standard . As I said before though , one for running and one for showing . Makes a lot of sense really . I cant imagine my wife allowing me to cut some holes in the wall of my house and have a nice 3 gauge track running from room to room . (would be fun though ) . Maybe if it could haul a little Prosecco dispenser , she might go for it ? Yes that is the Hornby 00 model.