Blefuscu

Etched windows are probably sensible answer. Thanks for the recommendation. I know 4D... but I hadn't thought to look there. The 'new' windows are looking pretty good from what I can see so far... but the rest of it is still printing.

Yes, i think the wheelbase is very useful... I think we will need to wait a while for the drooling to subsist though! I expect I could have used them for the 313, as i don't think the HST bogie is far off the BX1. The halling 21mm bogie was also a candidate, and the ICE3 is also in the same ballpark... Though, with the ICE3 I also get a pantograph (it's not right, but it's useable). I'm fairly happy with version 3 of my ICE3 conversion chassis. Not sure how long the 3D printed drive shafts will last. I have been cutting lumps off the metal top plate... but I have given up getting it to fit, so weight might be even more of a problem. Otherwise I just need to position the couplings, change the bogie sides and fit the bogie pickups. I have also decided to reprint the body in ABS V2, and with a support mesh in the windows, to see if I can improve those wobbly window frames.

That might be worth looking at... although I expect the old tt bodies were a little wider? I'm printing chassis V2 now, for a test fit, and once it's running I'll have a look at where I can pile the weight on. Although the quote from JLCPCB for a SLM printing chassis on stainless steel is about £23!!!... that's hard to resist. I need to double check it's the right size, as protolabs' quote was x10 that, and the postage will be awful, but it's stainless steel!

Unfortunately the motor cavity occupies most of the under floor. I even had to add material around some of it where u could see daylight through the floor. I'm trying to keep to at least 2mm thickness, more where possible, for strength (and stability during curing ). That said, metal filled resin is structurally a better bet than the UV resin. I was going to finish cleaning the design up tonight, but I tripped on the way to a hospital appt and now I'm in a&e 😂 When it's finally ready, i will get a quote for sintered metal, if for nothing else than general amusement!

Ha ha, I wish I suffered from that problem!

I have an offcut of 2mm steel next to that image which I'll be cutting up for reinforceing the trailer chassis, but I also have some 1mm steel shot (it was sold on ebay for weighting teddy bears!) that i use as a metal filler for adhesive or resin and pour into gaps, or into nose cones a la Liquid Metal. Iron fillings would work as a resin filler too I guess. It's just a question of making room for the weight without cutting away too much chassis. Have you found adding the weight above the drive train makes it top heavy? Another option that came up in conversation today at Ally Pally, was having the design 3D printed in sintered steel once I am happy with it. I can't imagine what that's going to cost... but I like really the theory!

This is a slight issue... It isn't nearly the weight of the die-cast chassis. However... the top half of the metal chassis should still fit. I'm hoping that's enough weight, or ill need to get creative. It will only be pulling the two other units.....

I'm working on the powered DM unit now... this is the first attempt, and has suffered some crude adjustments! Now the bogie is sitting comfortably, I'll reflect these changes on the design and print a real one.

The plier wrench was actually fine for pressing/flattening - but I would have had to have down a another 0.1mm I think to compensate for the flattening. I don't think I could justify the rolling mill for the amount of work I'm carrying out (or the space I have).... that handrail jig looks very useful though. Small enough that I might just smuggle it in without any justifying too. Need new pliers too... my 'fine' point pliers are old enough to have accrued some sentimental value now, but are really no longer up to fine work.

I started squeezing with a big knipex plier wrench, but for this job, they did seem to come up a bit wide - so I ultimately went with filing flat. Thanks everyone for the advice!

I think I'd be more comfortable with 0.3, but I'm not sure I could realise a low enough gear ratio... which led me thinking about a 3d printed gearbox. I agree, Tenshodo look to be 0.3 and I think the Halling gearsets are too. I did look at Romford and Ultrascale but as you say, i found supply a bit patchy. I have an assortment of 0.3 gears on a wishlist so I should probably just order them. I think I've stemmed the flood of aliexpress marketing emails, and am almost ready to try again. Another avenue, (particularly if ii end up designing a gearbox), is to have the parts cut at jlcpcb who used to do my 3d printing and pcb's. They are also based in China, but are a nice company to deal with. However, they ship with FedEx which is significantly more expensive than speedpak!

I like that idea. You could put a lamp of the buffers for contact/charge status... The chassis is looking really good! I'm still inspired to have a go... but the m0.2 gears arrived and I thing they might be too fine for my working tolerances, and I'm not feeling brave enough to have a go with those.

Thanks, thats good to know. There are a couple of really good images of it from 1975... then I lost sight of it.

Ah, I did wonder about the quality.

Yes, I just picked them up to have a look. I don't think I'd do anything but look at them! I have a selection of 0.2 Modulus gears on the slow boat from China that I hope will be more suitable. That said, it has just occured to be that I saw some geared versions of the coreless motors. They have a geared stage on the end of the motor. Only a single output shaft though, so perhaps not much use for a co-co bogie.

Actually, one of the problems I've had with V2 is getting it off the plate. One of the rafts shattered when I was scraping it off... so I'm quite surprised at how flexible the final prints are. Yes, it does feel like witchcraft at times... I've had similar problems working with casting resin and fibreglass but sometimes I just despair with printing!

I've just cured the chassis, and it's still quite flexible at 2mm section.. The thicker bits seem very strong. PS I've been curing them lashed to a wooden splint to prevent them turning into bananas, and that worked.

They are looking good! I am still waiting on gears before I have a go at this. I do have some of the Tenshodo gears... but I think the gear diameter is too small, and my motor will be too low for the middle axle.

Nice - thank you! It's the 1980 version I'm really looking for - but more angles from the late seventies are very useful. I hadn't noticed that tower on the left before... I wonder if that had come down by 1980? Here's the cover of my forthcoming book lol...

Funny you should ask, but I just did a test fitting of Piko ICE3 wheels. These bogies are printed in 'Anycubic ABS-like V2'. This was my first go with ABS V2, but it's very popular with in the Templot forum for printing chairs. This wheelset popped in quite easily - but the resin hasn't been fully cure yet. It might be that it becomes too rigid and cracks once it's cured. However, it's predecessor, the 'ABS-like +' , remained slightly pliable even after curing so I'm hopeful that it will be ok. I tried to fit a mueller 8.3mm tillig/bttb wheelset, but they have slightly longer pins. I'll need to re-version the bogie for those wheels if I use them and I'm also going to add holes for Peco NR-91 bearing cups anyway... these bogies are designed for the bin ultimately*, so that's no loss, but it's a promising start. (*There's also a weird print defect on the back of the bogies where it skews off at 45 degrees before finishing off the print.)

Thanks! I was pretty sure it's the same sign... but then I noticed there's a second sign in your photo, further down the track! I don't know how I didn't spot that before. I've gone back over my images of Hornsey folder and I can see it clearly now. Doh! So that sign in the foreground becomes the "Hornsey Electric Multiple Unit Depot", the one behind it becomes "Edinburgh 389 London 4", at least that's what I think it says. It's hard to read. Edit - here's the other image I found of it, from 1977 https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicjoynson/51789991755/

Printed, they look something like this... This was the second attempt as I'd used the wrong abs-like settings. "V2" feels very different to "+" too, they are quite different resins. I increased the supports 2nd run too.... Sometimes this printing game feels like witchcraft. The bogies were damaged in the first print run... where two chassis adhered to the bed!! They are salvageable, but I want to add a recess for my bearings (Peco n gauge ones) which have arrived. Don't have a bogie yet. I'm still considering the Halling 21mm coreless one, as above... but need to sell some stl files first!

I didn't think this old siding at the end of platform 2 was in use. By my reckoning, this used to be either the goods down (???) (An update on the depot sign... I discovered I already have a slightly better view. Further to this, it seems the sign had only a short life. In the late 70s it proclaimed the coming of electrification, and by the late 80s it was showing the distance to Edinburgh)

It might be early days, but I thought I'd park this thread here now and maybe get some feelers out. As the title suggests I'm looking at Hornsey in 1980, give or take a year. I have moved the introductory waffle at the end, because I have a few questions and I thought this way might be clearer. I'm looking for more information on the location of the control box at Hornsey. If possible, more images too. I guess it was adjacent to Ferme Park Sidings? I believe it's demolished now. I found have one image from the LNER forums, but I can't quite place it on any aerial/wide images. I'm also looking for a photograph of the Hampden road entrance as I believe the old steps were still there in 1980. So far all I have found is this painting to work from https://harringayonline.com/photo/hornsey-station-from-hampden-road1970s Modelling from a painting will be interesting exercise... but if that's all I have, I'll certainly take a run at it. I wonder if anyone have any images of this really cool sign at Hornsey TMD? Credit to Mike Lidgley's original photograph here https://www.flickr.com/photos/50256734@N05/6952179958/ And now the Waffle, for those interested in my long windy ideas for the project: I have been using the theme of Hornsey station and TMD in 1980 for my loco/EMU design projects. Being 50 years old, the era has nostalgic appeal. Hornsey was chosen as it's my local station, but I have now first hand memory of the area then, as I lived in Bedfordshire. The 313 and 55s I have been working on are getting closer to being working models now and need to consider laying some track. (not to mention sorting out my loft). I have completed the usual image research, Harringay Online, Geograph, Flickr have all been useful in building a picture of now as then. I also have a current rail map, the detailed 1950s maps, and aerial photographs from 1982 from the national archive in Scotland - between all that I think I can interpolate some sort of track plan... ...but it's an ambitious size. I'm hoping by using 1:120 scale I can capture a fair bit of it, well, at least achieve some of it with the flavour of the time and place. Practically, it's obvious I will have to curtail things quite a bit to get this to work, and there are some nice features that I wanted - like the crossing over the ECML between Hornsey and Harringay - that will have to go. Essentially, i guess it's mostly sidings... and six lengths of track. In terms of modelling 'fun', there are wooden and concrete sleepers, and there's even a bit of bullhead track left, with weeds. Operationally, however, I worry it might be a bit dull. I wonder if it's in anyway feasible to discreetly loop at least the fast lines, but I don't have a convenient tunnel to hide any of that. In terms of what was running then, Hornsey offers a lot more variety than my home town of Flitwick back then. I'm finishing off my 55 and 313 and then I'll begin working through MK1&2 coaches. From there I have classes 40, 312, 47, 31, 43, 08 on my list and eventually such things as battery locos, parcel vans and guards van. Obviously there's some overlap between my list, and Hornby TT120, but if I can work out my own bogies I think I might just trundle along doing my own thing. Partly, because I can't afford their models, partly because they might not look right against my home made offerings and also because they are generally useful designs and I might use them for 3mm or H0 one day. (I found a lovely photo of a goods yard, (Hornsey 1975, Paule Kearley), that, although gone by 1980, would make a nice standalone project in H0). I haven't even thought about freight yet... but there are already a few 3D files out there, so I think it will be pretty well covered by the time I get to it. Final mentions... I did see a thread on a possible Finsbury Park layout on here from some years ago... but i don't know if that bore any fruit? I would love a copy of the Finsbury Park book from the DPS mentioned therein but I think it's long out of print. I should also mention the wonderful Hornsey Broadway layout - which is a real work of inspiration.

That's an odd one. I use Anycubic slicer a lot(*) and have never seen this problem before. I would double check the printer bed settings, particularly the dimensions of the bed. It sounds to me like Anycubic workshop thinks your bed is 25% larger than reality. My thinking is sliced images will scale down on the printer to fit the screen, bringing the scale of the model down with them. (*I use it for slicing my .pwmb, but make my supports in Prusa... by exporting an stl with supports from Prusa into Anycubic workshop. Maybe Prusa can do .pwmb's now, but I'm a creature of habit and haven't checked for a while)