Blefuscu

I like that idea. You could put a lamp of the buffers for contact/charge status... The chassis is looking really good! I'm still inspired to have a go... but the m0.2 gears arrived and I thing they might be too fine for my working tolerances, and I'm not feeling brave enough to have a go with those.

Thanks, thats good to know. There are a couple of really good images of it from 1975... then I lost sight of it.

Ah, I did wonder about the quality.

Yes, I just picked them up to have a look. I don't think I'd do anything but look at them! I have a selection of 0.2 Modulus gears on the slow boat from China that I hope will be more suitable. That said, it has just occured to be that I saw some geared versions of the coreless motors. They have a geared stage on the end of the motor. Only a single output shaft though, so perhaps not much use for a co-co bogie.

Actually, one of the problems I've had with V2 is getting it off the plate. One of the rafts shattered when I was scraping it off... so I'm quite surprised at how flexible the final prints are. Yes, it does feel like witchcraft at times... I've had similar problems working with casting resin and fibreglass but sometimes I just despair with printing!

I've just cured the chassis, and it's still quite flexible at 2mm section.. The thicker bits seem very strong. PS I've been curing them lashed to a wooden splint to prevent them turning into bananas, and that worked.

They are looking good! I am still waiting on gears before I have a go at this. I do have some of the Tenshodo gears... but I think the gear diameter is too small, and my motor will be too low for the middle axle.

Nice - thank you! It's the 1980 version I'm really looking for - but more angles from the late seventies are very useful. I hadn't noticed that tower on the left before... I wonder if that had come down by 1980? Here's the cover of my forthcoming book lol...

Funny you should ask, but I just did a test fitting of Piko ICE3 wheels. These bogies are printed in 'Anycubic ABS-like V2'. This was my first go with ABS V2, but it's very popular with in the Templot forum for printing chairs. This wheelset popped in quite easily - but the resin hasn't been fully cure yet. It might be that it becomes too rigid and cracks once it's cured. However, it's predecessor, the 'ABS-like +' , remained slightly pliable even after curing so I'm hopeful that it will be ok. I tried to fit a mueller 8.3mm tillig/bttb wheelset, but they have slightly longer pins. I'll need to re-version the bogie for those wheels if I use them and I'm also going to add holes for Peco NR-91 bearing cups anyway... these bogies are designed for the bin ultimately*, so that's no loss, but it's a promising start. (*There's also a weird print defect on the back of the bogies where it skews off at 45 degrees before finishing off the print.)

Thanks! I was pretty sure it's the same sign... but then I noticed there's a second sign in your photo, further down the track! I don't know how I didn't spot that before. I've gone back over my images of Hornsey folder and I can see it clearly now. Doh! So that sign in the foreground becomes the "Hornsey Electric Multiple Unit Depot", the one behind it becomes "Edinburgh 389 London 4", at least that's what I think it says. It's hard to read. Edit - here's the other image I found of it, from 1977 https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicjoynson/51789991755/

Printed, they look something like this... This was the second attempt as I'd used the wrong abs-like settings. "V2" feels very different to "+" too, they are quite different resins. I increased the supports 2nd run too.... Sometimes this printing game feels like witchcraft. The bogies were damaged in the first print run... where two chassis adhered to the bed!! They are salvageable, but I want to add a recess for my bearings (Peco n gauge ones) which have arrived. Don't have a bogie yet. I'm still considering the Halling 21mm coreless one, as above... but need to sell some stl files first!

I didn't think this old siding at the end of platform 2 was in use. By my reckoning, this used to be either the goods down (???) (An update on the depot sign... I discovered I already have a slightly better view. Further to this, it seems the sign had only a short life. In the late 70s it proclaimed the coming of electrification, and by the late 80s it was showing the distance to Edinburgh)

It might be early days, but I thought I'd park this thread here now and maybe get some feelers out. As the title suggests I'm looking at Hornsey in 1980, give or take a year. I have moved the introductory waffle at the end, because I have a few questions and I thought this way might be clearer. I'm looking for more information on the location of the control box at Hornsey. If possible, more images too. I guess it was adjacent to Ferme Park Sidings? I believe it's demolished now. I found have one image from the LNER forums, but I can't quite place it on any aerial/wide images. I'm also looking for a photograph of the Hampden road entrance as I believe the old steps were still there in 1980. So far all I have found is this painting to work from https://harringayonline.com/photo/hornsey-station-from-hampden-road1970s Modelling from a painting will be interesting exercise... but if that's all I have, I'll certainly take a run at it. I wonder if anyone have any images of this really cool sign at Hornsey TMD? Credit to Mike Lidgley's original photograph here https://www.flickr.com/photos/50256734@N05/6952179958/ And now the Waffle, for those interested in my long windy ideas for the project: I have been using the theme of Hornsey station and TMD in 1980 for my loco/EMU design projects. Being 50 years old, the era has nostalgic appeal. Hornsey was chosen as it's my local station, but I have now first hand memory of the area then, as I lived in Bedfordshire. The 313 and 55s I have been working on are getting closer to being working models now and need to consider laying some track. (not to mention sorting out my loft). I have completed the usual image research, Harringay Online, Geograph, Flickr have all been useful in building a picture of now as then. I also have a current rail map, the detailed 1950s maps, and aerial photographs from 1982 from the national archive in Scotland - between all that I think I can interpolate some sort of track plan... ...but it's an ambitious size. I'm hoping by using 1:120 scale I can capture a fair bit of it, well, at least achieve some of it with the flavour of the time and place. Practically, it's obvious I will have to curtail things quite a bit to get this to work, and there are some nice features that I wanted - like the crossing over the ECML between Hornsey and Harringay - that will have to go. Essentially, i guess it's mostly sidings... and six lengths of track. In terms of modelling 'fun', there are wooden and concrete sleepers, and there's even a bit of bullhead track left, with weeds. Operationally, however, I worry it might be a bit dull. I wonder if it's in anyway feasible to discreetly loop at least the fast lines, but I don't have a convenient tunnel to hide any of that. In terms of what was running then, Hornsey offers a lot more variety than my home town of Flitwick back then. I'm finishing off my 55 and 313 and then I'll begin working through MK1&2 coaches. From there I have classes 40, 312, 47, 31, 43, 08 on my list and eventually such things as battery locos, parcel vans and guards van. Obviously there's some overlap between my list, and Hornby TT120, but if I can work out my own bogies I think I might just trundle along doing my own thing. Partly, because I can't afford their models, partly because they might not look right against my home made offerings and also because they are generally useful designs and I might use them for 3mm or H0 one day. (I found a lovely photo of a goods yard, (Hornsey 1975, Paule Kearley), that, although gone by 1980, would make a nice standalone project in H0). I haven't even thought about freight yet... but there are already a few 3D files out there, so I think it will be pretty well covered by the time I get to it. Final mentions... I did see a thread on a possible Finsbury Park layout on here from some years ago... but i don't know if that bore any fruit? I would love a copy of the Finsbury Park book from the DPS mentioned therein but I think it's long out of print. I should also mention the wonderful Hornsey Broadway layout - which is a real work of inspiration.

That's an odd one. I use Anycubic slicer a lot(*) and have never seen this problem before. I would double check the printer bed settings, particularly the dimensions of the bed. It sounds to me like Anycubic workshop thinks your bed is 25% larger than reality. My thinking is sliced images will scale down on the printer to fit the screen, bringing the scale of the model down with them. (*I use it for slicing my .pwmb, but make my supports in Prusa... by exporting an stl with supports from Prusa into Anycubic workshop. Maybe Prusa can do .pwmb's now, but I'm a creature of habit and haven't checked for a while)

I'm another Blender user... but would I recommend it? Well, it's free I guess, but like all this software you will need to put a bit of time into it before you know if you gel with it. It took me years to get the hang of it - but that was back around version 2.6. They have done a lot of work to improve the user interface since then. It's quite different from CAD, and I don't just do 'hard modelling' with it, I also free sculpt more organic shapes... cloth.. .people... etc. It might be my personal workflow but I also spend quite a bit of time nursing vertices and cleaning geometry. I find this strangely therapeutic for some reason. For me, it feels more like modelling than engineering, (although I'm still able to take measurements when I need to.) For chassis and bogie mechs it's probably not the right tool... but I know it well enough now that I would use it in preference to CAD software. I will use CAD software if I need require .dfx drawings for cutting or .step files for CNC and my preference there is for FreeCAD (3D) and libreCAD (2D). Preference might be the wrong word. I don't know either package very well and find both pretty horrible to use. This is in part due to lack of experience, although, from what I understand, Fusion360 IS hands-down better. I only use them because I didn't really understand the Fusion license agreement. If I did more CAD work I'd probably look at the design spark software from RS, also mentioned above.

Thanks, I had completely missed that!

Yes, I saw a nice 55 body on one of the Facebook groups. Although i print my own bodies, and will probably have a go at a 31 before Hornby's turns up, I think they are good value too.

Those lincoln locos bodies are really nice. Halling got back to me - they are having problems with there webshop at the moment but are happy to take orders and sort out the details later, or take orders via email.

I don't think you'd need to resort to DCC to reduce the speed electronically. A potentiometer might do the job. Presumably you're running at a lower voltage in RC, so they would be slower anyway. I hadn't considered RC for 1:120, I will probably go down the DCC road eventually with one of those Arduino projects. Physically, I offered up their 3D model of the 21mm bogie against my 313 model and it looks encouraging. (There's a screen shot of it in the 313 thread.) Yes, it was too hard to resist for me. Once I'd caved in, I went for a fair handful of options.

OK, I've dropped them a line. Their 21mm powered bogie looks really nice and I could see a lot of applications for it. Meanwhile... I went in for the 9.1 and 8mm Mosskito wheels, and some 8.3mm wheels from muellerradsatz. So I shall have plenty to play with soon. I also ended up taking a punt on a 1015 motor and some M0.2 metal gearsets from china... more just to see what turns up. At £2.50 a go, I won't be too crestfallen if all I get is a puff of black smoke out of it. I also saw some 1.5mm ID bearings, but forgot to add them to my basket...

That's good to know. Who do you recommend for sourcing Halling gears? I tried to order that 21mm Halling bogie earlier but had no luck. (I couldn't seem to select any kind of shipping for it.. ?) I did manage to order a Tramfabriek 1015 though... and some worms. So it begins. I don't know how people feel about Aliexpress... Anyhow, my search for coreless motors threw up these... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004824606265.html Gears too... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000852987637.html I haven't used Aliexpress myself, but I guess the fact I haven't snapped those up indicates I have very mixed feelings.

I'm thinking about having a go at this for one of my TT120 projects. I will probably just use a Halling bogie for my 313 EMU, as it looks to be a good fit. (H0m trams save the day!) However, for the 55 I am looking at these 9.1mm Mosskito Wheels... https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/mosskito/products/mosskito-wheels-9-1mm-12mm-gauge?variant=40378791231554

...and the ST. The front bogie shown is the 210mm Halling H0m https://shop.ferro-train.com/hallingShop/Article/ANT-ALX-210-H0M I'm not intending to put a powered bogie on the second trailer, I was just offering it up for a look see. You can find the 3D models of the Halling bogies here (they are in STEP format but easy to convert to .stl using freeCAD) https://www.halling.at/Drehgestellantriebe-.html

I have had half an eye on this thread with the idea of using hunt couplings for my 313 units. I had originally intended to gut an ICE3... but I am going to have trouble getting the ICE3 kinematic couplings to fit, (and, it turns out, I quite like the ICE3 and might want to keep it intact.) Would these be the right sockets for the hunt TT120 couplings? https://westhillwagonworks.com/oo-9/34-ntt009-narrow-gauge-nem-355-sockets-pack-of-16.html Or, alternatively, what about the symoba 110/111 combination kinematic couplings. Would these provide tighter coupling? https://www.petersspares.com/p/103654-dcc-supplies-symoba-110-nem-362-short-pocket-pk2 https://www.petersspares.com/p/103642-dcc-supplies-symoba-111-nem-conversion-sliders-kinematic-coupling-pk2 I'm also assuming the Hornby TT8040s use the same socket?

The underneath is taking longer than expected, but this is what I currently have for the DM. I'm going to start on the ST now! .