Tinsley no.3

No there isn't, I have tried to find room but only space is in cab where there is no driving wheels. =/

It's stranger... the middle ones are =/

I dunno, the pony has no spring so can't go no lower and front wheels touch track... I was curious if the kato 0-4-0 would fit but not sure.. I just want a decent running 1401 for my small titfield train

Ah yes, this old loco is having some running issues, mainly the fact it's wheel slipping when trying to move itself . . . Backward is decent but in forward we got no grip to the track, does anyone know a fix or any other n gauge 0-4-0 chassis with similar wheel spacing or even a kit for a replacement chassis, let me clarify this is n gauge, not 00. Would like to finish as it it part of my n gauge titfield thunderbolt train and is due to be at an exibition as a cameo on my n gauge layout. Thanks ;D

Well I'd agree, the skinhead ain't very good but as I'm working with it I decided to pick this one as without the headlight it looks worse. 😞

Does anyone have any decent photos of class 31 31418, I belive in the 80/90s when it had a high intensity headlight with/without cowlings around buffers. Or anyone remember any details on the loco as I am modding a Hornby class 31 passed of this one photo but I would like a few more pictures too go of. [Picture from X by Richard Bywater]

Thanks everyone for all the feedback, I have determined through testing that the 3.5 decoder is very happy running on other controllers and as such with the multimaus killing other "test" decoders I would say it is to blame and will probably go into storage, sold or disposed of if a fix isn't possible at the moment. I appreciate all of your replies and with so many of em in a matter of days 😅 Thanks alot ;D

Thanks for reply

Thanks for the info, any other locos you can name that use the crewe wheelbase aside from the 94xx as stated, can't find much on Internet and don't have many books on steam being a diesel buff. 😅

I would have to ask My father if I can borrow it but not direct access, in the shop rails of Sheffield [ not an advert XD ] I have been given access when I am free to use there gaugemaster prodigy.

I asume you are referring to the power supply and yes, I do think that it could be that because looking now I can still find them for sale for £10 so I'm bit dubious, I could get a actual roco power supply but I want to rule out the decoder so I can get a refund if it Is the decoder.

Unfortunately pal, the Multimaus is on loan from my family and isn't mine too sell, my grandfather wishes to use it on his 00 gauge layout but I'm not sure how well it will work.

Oh, I forgot to mention the main reason I would think it's the Multimaus is that it has claimed the lives of a lenz silver mini 6 pin decoder and a gaugemaster 6 pin dcc decoder to the same fate of overheating. Yes I am aware that 6 pin decoders are smaller and will get hot but these two decoders were tested and working By Rails of Sheffield, my local model shop until they were tested on the Multimaus and got very hot and once tested were absolutely knackered. These were done by fitting the lenz in a farish class 37 and the gaugemaster was in a Dapol class 121 'Dummy' DMU, the decoder in the 121 was already fitted when acquired so no fault on decoder fitting by me. So that's one of the reasons, added to with the wrong plug/transformer for the controller, others complaints and even the previous owner isn't sure if he ran dcc sound with it as the z21 came in for the 00 gauge collection and the Multimaus ran the H0.

Thanks for this, I am new to dcc so yes I have probably said a few things wrong, I have more a belief that the controller is at fault because even the person who bought the Multimaus [my father] hasn't actually used it with dcc sound locomotives, and has [as pointed out] used a non roco power supply/plug and, I'm not ruling out motor or decoder, I will try the loco with a blanking plate and the decoder in a different loco if possible. I do want to try a different controller as my family stopped using the Multimaus and went to z21 in a matter af a few years, the Multimaus only ever used to run German/Swiss stock and only ran anything like my 31 4/5 times on a short period. The z21 seems happy with all of my families zimo, esu, lok sound ect decoders and before now the last time the Multimaus was used was a year ago for 6 minutes on a SLW class 24 with sound. I do understand that the chip could be faulty but I don't want to believe a chip from 2010 would suddenly decide to have problems when the controller has some "bodgery" behind it and a lackluster time scale regarding most dcc equipment. I have read from one person in particular who had this issue and how they fixed it [without much detail though]. Thanks for the suggestion. 😅

I can confirm the decoder and speaker are the same as they left Hornby in 2010.

The type of power supply my father added to this controller was a bsg-1802000uk

Good solution... if I had the instructions 😅

Right, thanks to everyone for the advice, I have just tried the loco again without the sound on and the decoder got warm but not hot, I will wait until I have access to a different brand of dcc controller when I have time to visit my local model shop but I still am open to suggestions. Genuinely appreciated that in the span of an hour I've had so much help 😅

Just curious, why would giving the motor less voltage help the decoder, the chassis is fine, it'd the decoder that is rejecting the controller for some reason? I can't change any cv as I don't want to leave the loco on the track for any more than necessary. Thanks for the suggestion.

I see, well I can confirm the decoder is fine as it is a lok sound v3.5 21 pin which the class 31 had fitted from factory as the chassis is a factory fitted example from 2010. Should I try a different dcc controller, I do have some access too a secondary controller but time is limited as are dates so I would like the multimaus working.

My complete set up

No, unfortunately not, this controller was previously my father's which he used for 4y, this controller not only lacks the power track due to using peco set track but this adapter shown here.

You may be spot on with the track voltage but how to turn it down I'm not sure =/

From what I have read no, I've heared of people using bridge rectifiers but I'm not sure, my first dcc loco is a sound fitted class 31 [as the picture shows] so I'm new to dcc =/

Soo, didn't think I'd end up here but here we are, I have a roco multimaus controller which in the past has "possibly " killed 2 lenz silver mini's [say possibly bc they were second hand] by getting them very hot. My lok sound v3.5 decoder has just shut itself down due to getting very hot. The decoder after cooling seems to have survived the ordeal. I have read that the roco multimaus output too high of a current but I'm not sure? please can someone help [not to be rude but don't just say "your decoder is a dud" I'm pretty sure it's fine.] =/