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Clive Davies

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  1. Thanks all, some good advice. The two rail circuits (inner and outer) are not connected in any way, so probably not a problem then, but I do have another transformer under the board which operates a lighting circuit (some LED and some grain of wheat) It handles 2 amps so I'm tempted to use this to power one of the controllers anyway. ECM instructions state that the transformer should be able to handle 1.5 amps so 2 amps is more than enough and it can operate the GOW bulbs as it has 17/15 /12/10 volt outputs and I prefer to run them at 10v which makes them a bit dimmer and more realistic. they don't care if the voltage is AC or DC. The LEDs can then go from the bigger transformer with rectifiers at appropriate points. . Both controllers outputs go via 1 amp circuit breakers and there are ammeters and voltmeters on both circuits letting me know how well the loco is running. Thanks again for the reply's.
  2. Another Compspeed matter you might be able to help with, as a result of lying on the floor looking up at the underside of the layout and being bemused by the pile of spaghetti there, too many wires the same colour etc: done over many years with bits added on here and there, I decided to rationalize the wiring and have some sort of diagram so I new what was what. Discovered I probably wired the controllers up incorrectly. Compspeed instructions state (the input voltage must not exceed 14-18volts AC and each unit must be wired to it's own isolated winding, ie: one pair of orange wires per winding. DO NOT CONNECT MORE THAN ONE UNIT TO ONE WINDING.) I have to say that's exactly what I didn't do, both wired to one transformer, it's fairly meaty at 5 amps and a single 16 volts AC output. DC rectification is done within the controllers of course. They have been wired this way for years and nothing seems to have suffered any detrimental effects. I have no memory as to why I ignored their instruction or perhaps I didn't read them properly. Have I got away with it because I don't have it on for long periods, and if it was on for long periods would the transformer get very hot despite having more than adequate power ? Two separate transformers or a single new trans with two 16v windings ? Very interested to hear what people think.
  3. Many thanks for the replies, CD 4001 it is then, I shall acquire a couple and then put a complete board together as a spare. Looks like I need a new pair of eyeballs as well, preferably with built in macro vision. Clive.
  4. Excellent forum, I looked with great interest on the subject of ECM Compspeed Controllers. I have been using a pair of these for years on my twin track layout. But I've always wondered what I would do if either or both failed. So decided to draw up a diagram with all components listed. I got a bit stumped by the IC as the number was only partially visible. CD 4001 as mentioned in the forum does not appear to be whats marked on mine, but of course I could be wrong and probably am. The part that can be read is RCA 449 ( I thought I detected a 1 in front of the 4 but nothing comes up on the net with that number but 449 does). The number above RCA 449 I think starts with CD and looks like it ends with RE. Both units were purchased at the same time and are the CA direction switch type. Picture included as best as I could get it of the offending chip. Also have original instructions and my own component diagrams and diagrams of the copper side and component side with all relevant drill holes if anybody wants them. With a bit of circuit board and some ferric chloride you can make your own. I did that with the Optronic electronic ignition on my Ginetta car after I managed to fry the board and blow up half the components, (what a berk) still I made a completely new one and 3 years later it sill runs fine, and I built a backup board as well, two for the price of one. Also keen to hear peoples comments on the fact that I use Relcos with the Compspeed, I appreciate not every body likes them, I also appreciate most people on this site have far more knowledge and expertise than I do. All my loco's are Hornby Dublo, many with vertical motors most of which I've re-wound myself and converted to neodymiam magnets. Generally they draw 0.4 amps at 10volts, this seems reasonable to me but others may think otherwise and improvements could be made ie: no Relcos, wrong controllers anyway etc. Again I must say, great site.
  5. Excellent forum, I looked with great interest on the subject of ECM Compspeed Controllers. I have been using a pair of these for years on my twin track layout. But I've always wondered what I would do if either or both failed. So decided to draw up a diagram with all components listed. I got a bit stumped by the IC as the number was only partially visible. CD 4001 as mentioned in the forum does not appear to be whats marked on mine, but of course I could be wrong and probably am. The part that can be read is RCA 449 ( I thought I detected a 1 in front of the 4 but nothing comes up on the net with that number but 449 does). The number above RCA 449 I think starts with CD and looks like it ends with RE. Both units were purchased at the same time and are the CA direction switch type. Picture included as best as I could get it of the offending chip. Also have original instructions and my own component diagrams and diagrams of the copper side and component side with all relevant drill holes if anybody wants them. With a bit of circuit board and some ferric chloride you can make your own. I did that with the Optronic electronic ignition on my Ginetta car after I managed to fry the board and blow up half the components, (what a berk) still I made a completely new one and 3 years later it sill runs fine, and I built a backup board as well, two for the price of one. Also keen to hear peoples comments on the fact that I use Relcos with the Compspeed, I appreciate not every body likes them, I also appreciate most people on this site have far more knowledge and expertise than I do. All my loco's are Hornby Dublo, many with vertical motors most of which I've re-wound myself and converted to neodymiam magnets. Generally they draw 0.4 amps at 10volts, this seems reasonable to me but others may think otherwise and improvements could be made ie: no Relcos, wrong controllers anyway etc. Again I must say, great site.
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