Magdalen Bridge

22 minutes ago, kitpw said:

Thanks! ...paper is the short answer. I often use "Bristol board" but in this instance, I've used ordinary ink jet printing paper but coated with shellac both before and after pressing the rivets.  I've never used rivet transfer so I can't really comment on that except to say paper will almost certainly be cheaper! 

Kit PW

Thanks Kit PW. That is a really useful tip.

What beautiful workmanship! May I ask, what material do you press the rivets from? They look like a cheaper substitute to the rivet transfer sheets...

yes,  I had noticed that the painted numbers always look to have grease boxes in the photos. Good job I have a a stash on order from MJT.

To print on tissue paper, I taped it to normal paper:

This seems to have worked, and with a varnish, it is not too bad.

I am hoping that it can then be set into shape by misting a glue solution over it.

That is wonderfully useful to know. My copy of Atkins et al arrived a few days ago, so I will do some digging. In the meantime, I will try to track down some more Cooper Craft kits.

If I have understood correctly, 71460 of Lot 220 could arguably have oil axleboxes, and yet have painted numbers? I ask because I prefer the painted numbers to plates; I find the plates quite boring. 

Thanks all! 

my N8 Horsebox kit arrived today, wrapped in white tissue paper. This looks ideal for printing tarpaulins on.

Forgive my ignorance, but are the numbers on the tarpaulin independent from that of the wagon? That is, would wagon 65815, for example,  have a tarpaulin with the same number on it?

5 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Stacked 4-plankers, feels like a sweet shop 

 

For what it's worth:  I only press down Pressfix transfes very lightly at first. Then add lots of water, and once the top bit has been removed I use the point of a scalpel to reposition the transfer so that it's straight. Then press down again, and once dry apply Microsol fixing solution. Later a touch of matt varnish.  Never had issues with this even after many years.

Hi Mikkel, 

thanks for that very helpful tip. I will give that a go this evening. I have been building the 4-plankers as practice, so tips like that are excellent. When I am confident enough, I have some back-dated 6 wheel siphons that need their transfers; a task I am dreading. In the meantime, heavy weathering of the wonky opens should disguise the worst slips. 

8 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

Ian and I both made ours by printing onto Rizla. 

 

 

Now that is a good idea! Thanks for the tip; and what a marvelous tarpaulin template.

5 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Trouble is, once one starts worrying about the height of the floor, one inevitably moves on to worrying about the lack of interior ironwork... At which point the sanest move is to reach for a period-appropriate wagon sheet:

I'm on my second bout of Great Western 4-plank building at the moment. Without wishing to sound pushy, you might be interested in my thread, from round about here and sporadically over the following pages:

I've had a lot of help from some very knowledgeable folk, including @Mikkel, @Miss Prism, @Craigw, and @Chrisbr - the latter especially on finding appropriate numbers for wagons in particular condition. 

Yes indeedy. Tomorrow's task is to work out what is the best household material to make tarpaulins from!

9 hours ago, Harveyc said:

China reds a great colour, particularly on a iron mink! Definitely on my to do list. 

It is a marvelous colour; though I am still experimenting with the shade, as well as which parts of the wagon to apply it to. I can't help but feel it should be on the frames and w-irons too. I'm glad to hear it looks good on an iron mink... I have a few ABS kits waiting in the wings... 

4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Good to see a new blog on my favourite period 

 

I cut the solebar on these, but as you say it still leaves only 3½ plank. Annoying isn't it! Reducing the floor thickness does help a bit more (see this post), but for an extra 0.5 mm it's always a matter of personal opinion whether it's worth it, especially if you're building a number of them. Sheeted instead maybe?

 

 

Hi Mikkel, 

I can live with the 3 1/2 plank, especially when loaded. I bought a job lot of old kits cheaply as something to practice on, so each wagon is receiving a different type of glue, primer and finish to see what works best. I figured they would make a good starting point. So far Autotek acrylic spray primer is looking promising; it takes brush painted Vallejo very nicely.

As for period, I agree! I've always liked the Edwardian and the GWR, but it wasn't until seeing Farthing's The Bay while still at school that I was hooked by the glorious liveries.