Despatcher

As ever thanks for the advice and the time. I thought there must be a previous topic covering this but I do not come on here often enough to navigate it easily. Antex seems to be the way to go for me.

Having torn up my OO Gauge layout after10 years and installed new boards, I am about to start laying track for my new Lockdown Gauge O layout. 20' long 2' wide. However I need a new soldering iron as my trusty old Weller iron has finally given up. Having done research I am going to get 32.02 wire for the track bus wire and 16.02 wire for "droppers" to each piece of track. I usually solder the droppers to the track, possibly the underneath rather than sides for O gauge and use Scotchlock connectors underneath. I am not a fan of upside down soldering, or indeed any soldering. It is a "Dark Art" as far as I am concerned!! So, what sort of soldering iron should I get bearing in mind that soldering to me is a "Dark Art" to be avoided. I don't want to spend a fortune but I would like something robust that does the job without problems. Do I need 20w or 40w or 70w. I did not realise there was such a choice out there these days. I have been "happy" soldering wire to OO gauge track for numerous layouts for years. I am using Peco track for my O Gauge the same as I did for my OO gauge. Is soldering O Gauge that different? I realise this is basic stuff to some people but it sure scares the hell out of me! Thanks.

Many thanks indeed. I should be able to get the numbers sorted from that and indeed the works plates. My understanding is that this is a new upgraded release of the Class 35, see below, not due now until March 2020. Thanks also for the comments about the loco. I heard about "flaws" in the original loco from a number of people but I I was tempted by the quote below from the Tower Models website so thought I would just ask the question and your replies have been, as ever honest, helpful and encouraging. "Heljan have also announced a re-run of the ever popular Class 35 Hymek. A total of four liveries are being produced. During preparation work to rerun the very first O gauge loco that Heljan produced , it was found that various modifications were needed to bring it up to modern standards. These are now in hand, but it does mean that re-release will be somewhat later than originally expected. Modifications will include weight reduction, LED lighting to replace bulbs and an electronics upgrade to make it easier to convert to DCC. Now expected in 2020." from Tower Models website

I thought I might treat myself to the forthcoming (March 2020) release of the updated Heljan Hymek as I am building my first reasonable size Gauge O layout. Apparently it comes without a number and various outlets are offering it with "painted" numbers, presumably waterslide transfers. Is it possible to buy the raised silver metal numbers that the locos carried? I have also heard that the original version, Heljan's first Gauge O I believe, was not the best model ever, so should I steer clear of this one? Thanks.

Many thanks indeed Nigel. In that case I think it is easier to just change CV4 from its default of 100 to something much lower for my "double headers" and forget about using F2 unless the locos are working as single locos. One day I will buy a different controller! I quite like my Z21. My grandchildren can relate to it much more than a "normal" controller and if we are going to get grandchildren in general interested in model railways, then something has got to change considerably. I have now stepped off my soapbox!! Apologies. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated indeed.

Thanks. I have done all the speed matching. Every 5 speed steps starting a speed step 5. Well worth doing as the two loco in my consist, both Colas Rail 37s with Zimo sound decoders can be started at one end of my long end to end 6" apart and they remain that distance apart from one end to the other. When coupled together there is not a hint of push or pull on the coupling. Setting up a Train instead of a Loco is not the problem. It is dead easy apart from time consuming doing all the speed matching. My problem comes from having Activedrive decoders which have braking using F2 to dab the brakes. As I am a big fan of Activedrive, 23 of my 27 sound fitted locos have it. While I do not use "double heading" much, the two 37s look and sound wonderful. I will have a play with Nigel's suggestion over the next few days and see how I get on.

Thanks. I have tried entering 2 for binary bit 2 in Cv 21 in both locos but this makes no difference. F2 is still separate for both locos. The default for both locos in CV21 is 0 in single loco mode or consist mode. It seems to be something to do with how the Z21 sets up a consist internally. CV 19, the consist address is also 0 as a default. I then tried setting CV19 to 2 for both locos so they had the same consist number but that was wrong as both locos refused to move in consist or as single locos until I returned CV19 back to zero. What does CV22 do? This is reaching the limit of my CV knowledge and making my brain hurt so no assumption of knowledge answers would be appreciated.

I have two Colas Class 37s with sound that I have set up as a consist on my Z21. They sound really fantastic. The Z21 consist process works almost perfectly apart from one small glitch. My Zimo decoders have been set up to brake using a high number in CV4 to slowly coast to halt. To increase braking while coasting to a halt F2 (Function Key 2) is used to "dab" the brakes to simulate realistic braking. Holding down F2 rather than dabbing enables a faster stop to take place for when (misjudgement of distance occurs"! However, in a consist only one loco responds to the F2 brake being used. It is possible to display both locos and their controls side by side on my iPad but this would still need one hand the iPad and one finger from each remaining hand (!!!?) to dab both F2 buttons at the same time. Is there any way I can reprogram F2 (Function Key 2) to work for both locos so that one loco does not push or pull the other as they are stopping. The Z21 sets up lights (direction) for both locos, direction of travel for both locos and throttle for both locos by just using the controls for either loco. The remaining Function keys remain separate for both locos. This is useful for starting as one loco can toot and then the second can answer before setting off. My instant remedy is to shorten the stopping distance by putting a smaller number in CV4 for each loco when they are in consist but being able to dab the brakes for both locos by just using F2 for either loco would be good. So, is there any easy way of accomplishing this please?

Thanks for that and especially the photos. It all makes sense looking at the photos. I would not have worked that out at all. Hopefully I have sent my address. Many thanks for your kindness.

I have inherited a Heljan Class 33, 33207 Jim Martin in West Coast Rail Livery. It has detailing at both ends but no couplings. It also seems to have had its nem pockets removed as thete is absolutely nothing to attach or insert a coupling to. I would like to reinstall a coupling at one end, preferably with a nem pocket. Is there an easy way to do this?

Thanks for the explanation about lamps and signals. That makes sense to me now. Rusty and forgotten it is then ...

That is what I was thinking they would look like. I love the lamp and the primitive wiring. That has given me a few ideas too. Many thanks.

I am building a small O gauge diesel servicing depot/facility for shunting locos. End of green beginning of blue era roughly. I am trying to find out what colour the buffer stops would have been, in particular the horizontal "board" at loco buffer height. My stops will be rail built so I am assuming the whole thing would have been just a mucky rusty colour but, in various modelling magazines, I can find photos of layouts with locos that match my era where the boards are white and some with red where the locos buffers would make contact with the board if the driver gets the braking wrong (?). Any help much appreciated as buffer stop photos seem a bit of a rare item on the world wide web. Thanks.

Many thanks for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated.

If only I understood! I want to install an Absolute Aspects Ground Position Signal on my new O gauge layout. I am looking at using a Signalist SC1 accessory decoder. I have a Roco Z21 controller. According to Absolute Aspects on-line installation guide, the signal has a black wire which is attached to the negative DC supply. It then has a red wire which is attached to an on-on switch. Finally it has a yellow wire which is attached to the opposite side of the switch. The switch also is connected to the positive DC supply. As I will be using DCC that is not much use to me but does identify the three wires I need to connect. For DCC connection, the installation guide says that all signals come with a fitted resistor and can be fitted to a compatible DCC Signal Decoder. OK, so far I am more than a bit lost but Signalist SC1 accessory decoders I have been told are the greatest things since sliced bread for DCC signals. No idea if they are compatible with my Z21 though? The Signalist Manual claims "the diagrams all show common cathode wiring but if common anode signals are used the common wire should be connected to terminal ‘a’ instead of terminal ‘k’" As I have no idea what common anode and common cathode are (I am assuming positive and negative? But as to which might be which I am none the wiser). The Absolute Aspects Installation Guide does not mention anode or cathode but only connecting the black wire to the negative DC supply! I am more confused now. The diagram in the Signalist Guide for a Ground Position Signal like mine has four wires from the signal. According to the Absolute Aspects on-line guide my signal has a three (Red, black and yellow)! I am now totally confused and before I spend £50+ on one signal, it would be good if I knew what I was doing! Perhaps the Signalist decoder is not the answer. If anyone out there can explain this in VERY simple language that I might understand I would be very pleased indeed. Many thanks in anticipation.

Transfers arrived today from RailTec. Good service, good product and just what I was looking for. Brilliant. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

Brilliant. Thanks. You won't believe how much of my day I have wasted looking for these. You are a star!

This should be easy, as someone must know the answer. I have wasted hours today looking! I have three EWS 66s and a couple of similar liveried 60s. At "line side" these days they seem to have small DB branding vinyls(?) applied below the cab windows, one on each side and an much, much smaller version on the front. Now, I can find the cab side versions but with white rather than red lines and letters but I cannot find the front end ones at all. Any help with directions to exactly where I can obtain and purchase them in the correct colour would be a fantastic time saving help, please.Thanks.

I have had another reply from ROCO today! Amazing! It says much the same. It does though seem odd that the recommended Booster in the Z21 Manual is not actually totally compatible. I don't suppose they will do a refund/swap when the new ones appear! Although I am still really not sure what RailCom is and if I am missing out or not! I need to play a bit a bit more but turning RailCom off enabled a loco to cross the gap. I need to check again at the weekend as I am working today and tomorrow and time is a bit sparse. I just need to check that I did in fact, in my hurry, turn the Booster feed to the Programming Track off and the feed for the Programming Track back to the Z21 before I ran the loco back over the gap. I have installed a two way switch as suggested and need to make sure before I confirm to the wider readership that the problem is now solved. I also discovered that if my IPaD is not attached to the Z21 via the dedicated router then the Z21 "app" claims that RailCom is off. However when my iPad is connected to the layout through the router, I checked again and noticed RailCom was on and needed turning off. Fascinating. I'm still glad I bought the Z21 as I am learning many new things and it is making me really think, which for someone of my age is no mean feat! I also enjoy being part of this community even if I don't totally understand all the replies. I've said it before and I will say it again, RMWebs problem solving capability is immense. Anyway, enough of that, for those who are interested, here is Roco reply number two:- "thank you for your Z21-email-question! Please switch off "RailCom" at the Z21: Temporarily the booster sends the DCC-digital-signals during the reserved time of Z21 for RailCom-feedback. This voltage difference is recognized as short-circuit. After appearance of a new, RailCom-abled generation of boosters you can use RailCom all over your layout! With kind regards Modelleisenbahn GmbH Your Roco Service- and Digital-Teams www.roco.cc ------------------------------------------ Modelleisenbahn München GmbH Triebstr. 14 80993 München Deutschland AG München . Handelsregister München B159908 . Firmensitz München Geschäftsführer: Mag. Wolfram Haböck, Mag. Roland Weissenbacher"

I have received a reply from Roco which I will share with you as follows: 17 July 2013 13:20 "thank you foir your Z21-email-question! With high probability the different DCC-signals are the reason for the short-circuit for transient-situations: - Z21 supplies the track with DCC and RailCom-zero-volt-breaks - booster 10765 isn´t RailCom-abled: For the short gaps there is the full voltage, however not in the Z21-region To avoid this situation you have to switch off "RailCom" at the Z21! The right polarization between the both layout sections is a necessary precondition in every case. With kind regards, Modelleisenbahn GmbH Your Roco Service- and Digital-Teams www.roco.cc ---------------------------------------------------- Modelleisenbahn München GmbH Triebstr. 14 80993 München Deutschland AG München . Handelsregister München B159908 . Firmensitz München Geschäftsführer: Mag. Wolfram Haböck, Mag. Roland Weissenbacher" As their European Contact page appears in German on my computer and as my e-mail was quite complicated and in English I am amazed at the clarity of the reply. Very good customer services I think. I will try what they are suggesting and report back but, looking at my Z21, RailCom is turned off. Whatever RailCom is.

Thanks for your comment and interest. Unfortunately nothing as easy though. The Z21 and each Booster have their own dedicated and quite separate recommended Roco transformer. I am still awaiting a reply from Roco Europe.

I am going to use a switch which will enable the programming track to be used as planned as part of the layout. I also agree that switching it in is a good idea even if it is not really part of the holistic concept of DCC. I once managed to accidentally reprogramme several sound locos by having a wheel over the "gap" when changing CVs on the programming track. We all learn by our mistakes. I just about follow and understand what Andi is saying about Boosters and the Z21 but it is very much at the limit of my aged brain at this time of night! The Boosters are also much older technology than the Z21 as Roco have not produced new ones to complement the Z21. And the Z21 is very much new technology all round. They have just assumed that the Boosters which work with the MultiMaus system will work with the Z21. I wonder if they tested them with a Z21? It will be interesting what Roco have to say if I get a reply. But yes, and many thanks again, I have got a system that now works. Even if slightly differently and more costly than planned.

I have emailed Roco through the contact page on their website. I will add their reply here if I get one. I have also had a long chat with Gaugemaster who suggested that I should contact Roco. On the positive side I can now operate the layout and finish checking everything before adding scenic awe and wonder. On the negative side the ECoS I nearly bought instead would have been cheaper as it turns out! But I really like the Z21 and its range of control from iPads etc and its potential for future updates through Apps. It is very different. Once again I must say how invaluable this website is to the lone modeller working in isolation. DCC is certainly not the simple two wires plug and go it was supposed to be. Thanks to all who contributed and those who are still reading.

Keith, glad to know you are there too! I have identified a problem as you have probably read. Not sure of the solution unless it is a patch round the problem. I would prefer a booster that does what Roco claim it does in the User Manual. Not too sure being a Guinea Pig is what I intended when I started this!

Thanks Dutch_Master. Ok, so I have now used both my boosters, one to feed each track/power section and just used the Z21 as the controller. It worked just fine. No problems with the loco going across the gap between the sections. HOWEVER, as I was doing it, I worked out where the next problem would occur and it did. The Z21 has a separate feed to the programming track which, on this layout, is one of the sidings in the shed yard. It is separated from the rest of the layout by insulated joiners and .... yes .... the locos shorted the system when crossing on to the programming track. So, yes, I could have a totally separate programming track which would work. But that is not what I wanted, so second best. i could go back to analogue and switch the programming track through on/off switches but that is not DCC. What I think, possibly, that I have identified is a compatibility problem between the Z21 and the recommended Boosters which ROCO need to sort. Not sure what to do next now? The Z21 works just fine, the Boosters work just fine fine, unless they are connected as per the Z21 User Manual when they just do not like talking to each other. At least my wiring is OK. Phew! Any suggestions?