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Tim123
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Posts posted by Tim123
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Is the brake rigging fitted? If so is there clearance between it and the rails? Many years ago when Dapol brought out the B1 I saw one that was more of a sledge than a loco. Derailed on points, and the rigging caught in the sleepers going backwards. Removing the rigging removed the problem.
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£0.484 for a pack of 100 excluding VAT and postage from Rapid Electronics. As Iain said 0603 sized.
https://www.rapidonline.com/10k-0603-1-1-10w-royal-ohm-chip-resistor-pack-of-100-72-9849
I've used Rapid Electronics for years, both for work and personal use. Never had any issues, and they live up to their name!
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It looks like a Poole developed loco that was put back into production in China without any changes. Pickups are on the three main drive wheels each side. No traction tyres - the cast metal body and chassis provided all the traction.
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Heljan class 27 D5369 2731 BR green small yellow ends
Heljan class 27. Has been removed from the box only to test. Complete with all original packaging, instructions and bag of extra detailing parts. 8 pin DCC ready
Runs perfectly in both directions. Much better than the Lima class 25!
UK sales only. Will be sent within 3 working days of receiving payment.
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AdvertiserTim123
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Date09/08/23
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Price£125
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Heljan class 25 D7550 2532 BR 2 tone green full yellow ends
Heljan class 25. Has been removed from the box only to test and have a 21 pin decoder fitted. Complete with all original packaging, instructions and bag of extra detailing parts.
Currently has has the Bachmann 21 pin decoder fitted. I can remove this if required before posting.
Runs perfectly in both directions. Much better than the Hornby class 25!
UK sales only. Will be sent within 3 working days of receiving payment.
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AdvertiserTim123
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Date09/08/23
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Price£145
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2 hours ago, kevinlms said:
So they really made them like that, with the lettering reversed and even rotated around? Somehow I think not!
Look at the one edge-on. It's the 3d ear!
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1 hour ago, Hroth said:
But that's MR Spock... 🤪
Correct, but I didn't have the time to change it #i didn't create the meme
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14 hours ago, Hroth said:
The one in the box will have a pancake motor....
The Lima 20 always had a can motor driving one bogie through a cardan shaft. The body was too narrow to accommodate the pancake motor bogie. Still not a great runner though.
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The spokes are definitely metal. Since moving away from the split chassis mechanisms their steam locos no longer use the plastic wheel facings that swell up and buckle causing the locos to waddle.
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What software version is the decoder - in the red box in Paul's screen grab it says "ATTENTION: DC analogue operation only implemented from SW version 4.50"
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Chassis castings for Hornby Scot / Patriot
These are the castings to replace Mazak rot in the Hornby fully detailed Royal Scot and Patriot models. You'll need to re-use the rear stamped metal motor retainer, wheels, pickups and all valve gear. Screws are not included, and I believe the screw threads in this casting differ from the original.
UK sales only as their price includes postage. If you let me know your email address I'll send a Paypal invoice for payment.
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AdvertiserTim123
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Date31/05/23
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Price£25
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I bought my CD motors as conversion kits, each came complete with a 3D printed cradle and the correct gear. I've done several Hornby and Lima models, each one has been a big improvement. Lima DMUs, 47s and 37s crawl silently round the track, aided by Zimo MX600Rs with around 8000uF stay alives.
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8 hours ago, GWR-fan said:
Several years ago I recall that Peters spares sold plastic screws intended for this application.
He still shows them as being in stock
5 hours ago, kev said:If locomotive a favourite can always ugrade the motor
Fitting a CD motor will give a big improvement in running, and they are electrically insulated from the casing. Some are only rated at 6 volts, but if you use a decoder which limits the voltage, such as Zimo with CV57, then there will be no issues with motor burn-outs. Quite a few guides on the likes of YouTube.
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There will be a thermal cut-out in the controller. It will trip out if there’s a short circuit, and auto reset a few moments after the short has been removed.
Assuming all you did was remove and dismantle the motor then I’d check that the insulating sleeve is properly located on the brush retaining spring, as shown on the service sheet. Also check the carbon brush is correctly seated and not touching the front of the motor housing. Same applies to the suppression capacitor, one end is screwed to the chassis block, the wire coming out of the other end might be touching the motor too.
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The Forum Jokes Thread
in Wheeltappers
Posted