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GWL

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  1. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Static Grass.

    Is now all over the flat... I’m chasing after myself with the hoover before I get told off!
     
    A short update today with some work in progress. I wanted to share some photo’s of my first attempt at serious landscapin’... I’ve gone for my own take on Simon George’s method of static grass application (thanks MW for the links!) and I think it works rather well! See Simon’s Heaton Lodge Junction thread here, where I found much inspiration:
     
     
    As all of this first board is either road, farm track, grass or mud, the entire surface was painted in an earthy brown acrylic (my mix is 1 part each white, black, raw sienna and burnt umber). Note there is no initial layer of ground cover over everything, just papermache and cork underlay painted brown. The exception is the dusty footpaths and dry mud under the tree which is brown grout from B&Q, which goes down before I start any grassing.
     
    I work in small patches at a time, no more than 20cm sq. PVA is liberally painted on, then an initial layer of static grass scattered over using my peco precision applicator. While the glue is still wet, I use the handheld vacuum with a pop sock  on the end to take off the excess fibres and get it standing up a bit more. This also blows it about a bit which is good.
     
    I’m going for a summery Somerset look, using a smorgasbord of cheap bags of Woodland Scenics products. I have used three lengths of static grass in three colours: 2mm Medium Green, 4mm Light Green, and 7mm Straw.  The initial layers were a mix of two lengths, 4mm & 7mm for the embankment, 2mm & 4mm for the field.

    Next, for the more overgrown or weedy areas, a liberal amount of Crystal Clear Matt Coat is sprayed over and a second layer of grass is applied, usually just 7mm Straw, sometimes with 4mm mixed in as well.
     
    Finally, more Crystal Clear is sprayed in specific areas. Fine and course turf is scattered in patches to represent weeds; I found that fine burnt grass really looks like nettles, fine green grass like brambles, and a mix of medium / dark green coarse turf like the general melee of scrub undergrowth you find at the edges of fields, besides bridges & hedgerows, etc.
     
    Crystal Clear Matt Coat is my new favourite aerosol, although I fear my lungs may now be 90% Matt varnish... use a mask, people. 
     
    The fencing is all made from matchsticks and tooth picks, with 0.25mm Polyamide thread for the wiring.
     
    I’ve also tried a couple of trees à la Luke Towan; twisted wire, coated in latex rubber, with static grass added before spray painting, brush painting, and finally dipping in coarse turf. When it’s dry, I simply pushed the roots into a layer of wet grout to fix in place.
     
     


    Bob with his barrow, note that the darker brown is just painted cork, not any sort of ground scatter.

    Fencing team at work. There were ideas of having a boggy pond in the middle of the field, but I thought better of it. The sheep would get stuck.

    I really like the way the fine turf sticks to the grass, I do think it looks like nettles.

    The paths are just brown grout from B&Q. Before anything else, PVA is painted where the path should be, then grout scattered over the glue. Water & IPA mix is dropped over the top to make a paste, and finally a dusting of extra grout is applied to the wet stuff using a small brush.

    Tree trunk needs a touch-up, fingers covered in Crystal Clear took off some paint. The tree is just pushed into a wet layer of grout, I will clean up the tops of the roots with a wet brush now the grout is dry. Rough hedgerows not stuck down yet, but give an idea.

    Bit of extra fencing yet to go in next to the stile, perhaps a dog gate and footpath sign?

    Overview of work so far. Plenty more details to add, dirt to tidy, fencing to install and weeds to grow, but it’s a start!
     
     
  2. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    YouTube
     
    It’s a wonderful thing. I stumbled upon this 8mm cinefilm home video from the 60’s, just as the Clevedon branch’s working life was drawing to a close.
     
     
    This line is the inspiration for my layout, and I am trying to distill the general feel of it while giving it my own twist. (I wasn’t around to see the real thing, after all!)
     
    1:30 > 2:15 in this video is all footage of the real Kingston Bridge, 5 minutes walk from my childhood home. I’m trying to create a representation of this as the titular bridge on my layout, at the far end where trains will emerge and disappear through to the fiddle yard. A 3D printed letterbox is in the works to be set into the bridge wall.
     
    Here are some then and now comparisons:
     



    You can just about see where the old postbox has been removed from the parapet, as well as the old (BR? GWR?) fence posts buried in the hedge.

    The rusty old excavator has been buried in weeds on the old track bed since before I was born, I think it will be given a nod to on the layout in some way.

    Grant me some creative license, I am trying to capture the essence of 4 miles into 2 metres....
  3. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Change
     
    All my previous forays into railway modelling had been both temporary and analogue, but Kingston Bridge has been the launchpad from which I can explore Digital Command Control.

    The choices are mind boggling - there as many options as there are methods of modelling railways. I preface this by saying that these are the choices I made that suit my needs, but I'm certain they will not be to everyone's taste.

    So lets have a little ramble about the DCC products I've really enjoyed working with.
     
    I am going to assume you know what DCC is and the basics of how it works. If not, here is some light reading to start with!
     
    Mind, control.
     
    Choosing a control system was the first step. Much research was done on the forums, and particularly watching YouTube videos of the various controllers in use.
    My criteria were:
    well designed full-featured easy to use capable of running 2 locomotives simultaneously expandable in the future under £200 for the full controller kit (excluding decoders).
    The NCE PowerCab quickly emerged head and shoulders above the other options. I like that it offers the same features as it's premium big brother, the ProCab, the only limitation being it's power supply and therefore the number of locomotives and accessories it can power. It can also be linked to PC control systems if I wanted to head that way in the future.


    I really could not to find anything else that ticked all these boxes for the same price, so the NCE PowerCab was the winner for me.

    Bag o' chips!

    Controller sorted, I now enter the world of DCC decoders... so many to choose from! What features do I need? Which brand is 'best'?

    To cut a long story short, I had three loco's to fit (see the end of blog post 6) so purchased three decoders to test, one each from Lenz, Zimo and DCCconcepts (Zen).
     
    They were all brilliant, but I have settled on Zimo as my decoder manufacturer of choice. Here is why:
     
    Zimo offer decoders for all pretty much all installation types, certainly the ones I need; 8 pin, NEXT18, and 6 pin Direct. All of the basic decoders cost only £20 each! All* of the decoders have solder pads provided for you to easily fit a stay alive capacitor (*NEXT18sockets have solder pads on the Loco rather than the chip, more on this later) They are very well respected, with lots of positive reviews and acclaimed reliability.  
    I buy my decoders from DigiTrains (I'm not affiliated in any way, but I find their website and service brilliant)
     
     
    Smooooooth runnin'.

    My layout is essentially a shunting puzzle, and therefore low speed controllability and smoothness are really high my list of priorities when it comes to locomotives. I want to avoid the 'hand from the sky' making an appearance if I can at all help it.
    (This is also why I've gone for Kadee couplings, see blog post no. 3)
     
    This lead me to the decision to fit stay alive capacitor units to all of my locomotives. A built in battery unit in every locomotive that pretty much guarantees smooth running? Clean track and good loco servicing are still important of course, but more time running trains and less time prodding trains is a win-win in my books.
     
    One of my recent purchases was a Bachmann 03, and it runs beautifully. So let's start there and I'll show you why I love the NEXT18 decoders.
     
    Easy Breezy.
     
    Many people make their own stay-alive capacitor units, with the required resistor and diode protection circuit, and to be honest I really should learn to do this. But as it is, I have bought off-the-shelf units to get my feet wet (and avoid a great price. The three variants are here, here and here. For the Class 03, I used shape no.1 (long and thin), part no. 870007.
     
    Removing the top of the Class 03 reveals the Next18 decoder socket, contacts for the cab LED on the top, and housing for a DCC Sound speaker in the front.
     

     
    Removing the two screws securing the decoder socket allows you to flip it over, revealing extra solder pads for lights, functions and (most excitingly) V- and V+ for a capacitor stay alive unit.
     

     
    Before soldering, I needed to find a home for the Kung Fu stay alive. I found the logical answer was to wrap it in black electrical tape and hide it in the cab behind the driver.

    Now I simply soldered the black stay alive wire to V-, and blue wire to V+, carefully tidy the cabling inside the loco body and job done!

    I enjoyed working with the NEXT18 socket so much that I decided to install the same type in my old Dapol 14xx. LaisDCC make a brilliant adaptor board (part no. 860031) with the NEXT18 socket on one side, and all the solder pads on the other, ready for rails, motor, lights, functions, loudspeaker and stay alive.
    (Note that V- and Ground are one and the same)



    Just needs some crew to hide those wires!
     
    Of course, there are other decoder types too, and Zimo's 8 pin and 6 pin direct decoders are equally as easy, with solder pads and/or wires provided on the decoders themselves for adding stay alive’s. (See this helpful video from Digitrains on how to fit a stay alive to a Zimo MX600R 8 pin decoder)
     
    Standards.
     
    In my opinion, this is the way that DCC should be going - making things as easy and as flexible as possible for the modeler. Some people are happy and able to hunt about decoder circuits with multimeters to find the tiny spot to solder to, but why should we have to?!
     
    LaisDCC bring a range of economically priced components to the market, and brands like DCCconcepts and Zimo are providing decoders to suit every need and price point. Most importantly, they are accompanied with clear instructions including where all the necessary solder points are.  I applaud this "we will guide you to the door, but go through at your own risk" approach, I think it shows a real understanding of the hobby.
     
    It seems an increasing number of models are using the NEXT18 connection. One that caught my eye is Dapol's new Mogul, with 'tool free decoder and speaker fitting'. The decoder and speaker are attached to a sled (similar to a USB stick), which slots in place behind the smokebox door.  See Sam's video here showing this in detail- I think he's as excited about this design feature as I am!

     
    I would love to see NEXT18 decoders become the standard for all models, I just think they’re brilliant (can you tell?!)
     
    What do you think?
     
  4. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Furloughed. But its not all bad, I’ve been allocated a corner in our 2 bed London flat to embark on a model railway project to pass the time. HURRAH!
     
    I thought I’d start a blog about this adventure and this first post details the progress so far.
     
     
    Scheming.
     
    I'm a Theatre Production Sound Engineer in London, who grew up in North Somerset.  Ghosts of old branch lines that snaked around and through the villages near my childhood home have always been a potent source of inspiration.  A pile of Hornby 00 track and assorted western rolling stock has been sat in a box for years, leftovers from a childhood 6'x4’ loop layout that closed to goods and passenger traffic circa 2008. 
     
    The project is to build a model railway on a budget in the limited space available. I have some modelling experience and am handy with a soldering iron, drill, files and to some extent paint brushes. I’ll be using this layout as a test bed to learn some new skills and try things out, building as best I can while having fun. I’m not going to worry too much about perfect true-to-life design or operation.

    The gist is a fictional GWR country terminus (because we can't get enough of those!), perhaps a preserved line, effectively based on a shrunken version of the old B&E / GWR station in Clevedon, North Somerset. Photos of said station below... I’m naming my layout Kingston Bridge, the landmark still standing about halfway along the disused Clevedon branch from Yatton, and just up the road from my childhood home.
     

     
    LINNMON to the rescue!
     
    Base boards... I have no wood, and no means to quickly buy wood online at a reasonable price. Step up the ikea LINNMON table!  Two 100x60cm white tops, sturdy, and £6 each! Add 8x ADILS legs at £2.50 each and we’ve got ourselves a budget base board. Thank you IKEA.
     
    I’ve laid 2mm cork on the top of both tables as a base - six pack of 300x1000mm rolls from Amazon did the job - though it turned out more like 295x1010mm. So a slight gap at the back that will need filling later. The legs took longer to arrive so the “boards” sat on an existing table to get me started.
     

     
    I’ve used two small flight case catches to join the boards. They keep the table tops together nicely while allowing for some vertical adjustment for levelling. Only gripe is that the holes on the hook component were smaller than listed - hence ugly countersunk screws instead of nicer pan heads... I’ll fix that later.
     
    Track attack
     
    I had a pile of used Hornby 00 track, but it wasn’t in good nick and I decided to treat myself to something new. After a fair amount of research I’ve chosen Peco code 75. I like the way it looks on other layouts and having never used Peco track before, I thought it was the time to try!
     
    Well I was too slow, because it seems EVERYONE has had the same idea!  Buying track was quite a challenge. It feels as though the parts for this project have been sourced from every model shop in the UK!  The original track layout (planned to be all wooden sleeper) quickly went out the window and was adapted to suit what I could get my hands on for a sensible price - I was not going to pay £10 per piece of wooden flexi track!!! I’ve ended up with concrete sleeper flexi track, and wooden points with the exception of two right hand medium points that also had to be concrete. I was determined to get a single slip into the layout, I find them interesting and wiring and operating it correctly would provide some exercise for my brain!
     

     
    Initially the mix of sleeper types annoyed me, then I remembered my mantra for this project - I can learn to model with both concrete and wooden sleeper types.  I’ll have to make up some back story for the mixture of sleeper types later... thoughts on a postcard please.
     
    Rough version of the plan above. The lower sidings might change a bit... that idea was a mileage yard, and that the uppermost track crossing the road might enter a factory yard or building, set into the back scene. Who knows, its a moveable feast.  Meanwhile the table legs arrived! Super easy to install and remove, with plenty of adjustment for levelling - at least 25mm. At 70cm high they’re not “exhibition height” but are ideal for sitting and working.
     

     
    What’s the point?
     
    I have a pile of Hornby point motors, and the initial plan was to use them. However, once I’d committed to the LINNMON tables I decided to surface mount as much as possible rather than hack away creating holes for things. Wire in tube with slide switches for frog polarity seemed like a neater option and a fun learning opportunity, so thats what I’ve chosen.
     
    The switches are part no. SW05898 from CPC.farnell.com, PTFE tube is 0.5mm ID / 1mm OD from Amazon. The wire is 0.4mm silver coated copper... I know I know, I’m probably going to regret not using steel, but I had it on the shelf and It seems sturdy so far... perhaps I will curse myself later. I’ve soldered on thicker wire for the point end so there is more rigidity and less play in the hole through the tie bar. The switches are soldered up to the frog wire with two drop wires for + and - feeds, then set into holes drilled with an 8mm bit and filed to shape. The PTFE tube is set into a slot cut in the cork, then everything is fixed and filled in with a hot glue gun.
     

     
    Each individual piece of track has drop wires, which are 16x0.2mm 0.5mmSq (20 AWG) from railwayscenics.com - I couldn’t find lengths of wiring under 25m as cheap as theirs, and its great quality. I will be using  32x0.2mm 1mmSq (17 AWG) for the bus wires under the tables - probably overkill but better too much than too little and should be future proof for upsizing. I will run ‘analogue’ Initially but would like upgrade to DCC at some point...
     
    Rust, rust or rust?
     
    Painting the track has been a voyage of discovery. I don’t have an air brush nor the funds to buy one. My initial solution has been Kobra low pressure spray paint In Chinotto brown for a base coat on all track, wooden and concrete sleepers. Used with black dot caps from Graff City, this provides a more controlled spray than the regular spray paint cap. The concrete sleepers have then been brush painted in Humbrol No. 72 Khaki Drill Matt Enamel, and the rails brushed with No. 62 Leather for a rusty look.
     


    The No.62 works well In my opinion for unused extra rusty track but is a bit too red for track in regular use. Thinning it down on top of the Kobra chinotto looks okay but its not perfect or consistent for the main track. I think I’ll try a darker option down the line... Also, brush painting concrete sleepers takes quite a lot of time... I have some Plastikote grey primer that I think comes out roughly the same colour as the humbrol, so I might give that a try going forward in conjunction with some darker rail rust paint.
     
     
    And thats it for now! I’ve started laying track and a bit of test ballasting, but I’ll save that for a more bite-sized next instalment.
     
    Please comment with your thoughts, I’m trying to learn and would welcome all opinions!
     
  5. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Well, it's been a while!
     
    I've been back to work, furloughed, back to work again, furloughed. The railway had to find a corner and wait a while. There has, however, been progress. I'll keep this post as concise as possible and give you an idea of what's been happening.
     
    NCE DCC.
     
    I took the plunge and bought myself an NCE PowerCab starter set for christmas. Really impressed, after a lot of research I can see why NCE repeatedly comes out on top as a great entry system to DCC.
     
    More on this in an upcoming blog post - it's been an interesting journey finding the pro's and con's, pitfalls and bonuses of each DCC product (specifically decoders!).
     
    Arts and Crafts.
     
    I've rekindled my paper mache skills and made embankments around the titular bridge! My method is:
    Cardboard formers Gaps filled with newspaper 3 layers of plain white paper (strong base) 4 layers of newspaper (easy to layer and smooth things out) 4 layers of kitchen paper (for the textured finish)  



     
    The strip of 300gsm brown card I laid down the hill for the road base was pointless, I don't think it made any difference to the lumps which evened out anyway when it all dried.
     
    On the second board, an early platform attempt is awaiting resurfacing - I'm contemplating a filled and painted surface, but I'm still researching options and looking for the best option.
     
    I've been testing out "soil" paint colours and some foliage in the newly ballasted run-down goods yard. The layout is definitely taking shape as a preserved railway, with some areas well maintained and others awaiting the next fundraiser or National Lottery grant!
     
    Future areas will be painted more grey-brown to represent the clay-heavy soil of the North Somerset area. I'm about to launch into the world of static grass, watch this space...

    I'm still undecided as to what the two sidings north of the platforms will be. The idea was a factory, but now I'm tempted by a loco shed... I think ideas will come into focus once the platform and station building is built.
     



    I've been playing around with weathering the ballast - I don't have an air brush, and I like low-tech low-budget solutions, so I've brushed on watered down acrylic for light weathering, and neat black and greys for the oil & coal stained areas where locomotives stand, as well as the top of the loading stage. Some real coal is on order to create some wagon loads and a coal stage.
     
    I used wood glue (Gorilla was what I had on the shelf) for applying the foliage as it dries clear and is more tacky than watery. I certainly works better than the cheap-as-chips PVA I use for cardboard, paper mache, etc.
     
    Loco's and Rolling Stock:

    Some new toys have appeared in the past few months. After all, you've got to spend some time playing trains!
     
    Here's the list - photo credits to KMRC as they do a great job of showing off a model in its natural habitat.
     

    Bachmann 31-361B, Class 03 in BR green - I LOVE this loco, high build quality, super smooth, crawls very well, and the NEXT18 decoders are brilliant for wiring a stay alive to.
    I'll be doing a subsequent blog post on my DCC choices and what my go-to products are now.
     

    Hornby R3721, Class 61xx Large Pairie GWR green - waiting for a decoder for this, nice model but a little fragile.
     

    DJ Models K2203, Class 13xx 0-6-0 GWR green - lovely to look at and runs okay on DC, but on DCC it lurches each time it starts moving. It might be down to the Zen Blue decoder I originally paired it with, and I considered returning it as the mechanism is really not that great... but I'm going to try a Zimo 6 pin and see if I can get it running at least as well as it does on DC.
     

    I've also bought a selection of Dapol GWR wagons - the NEM pocket springs are very easy to bend or snap which means Kadee coupling's can play up, but all fixable.
    You can also see my old Dapol 14xx which I've DCC fitted. Slightly wobbly runner but it was my first ever loco so I love it all the same.

    And I think that just about brings us up to speed. Not as detailed as my previous posts, but I'll try to update this blog more regularly to document my progress.

    I hope you are all keeping safe and sane in these crazy times!
  6. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Progress. I’ve started from the bridge end of the layout and roughly a third of the track is now stuck down, including 6 of the 8 points. I’m happy with my wire-in-tube point control, I’m waiting for some more glue gun sticks to tidy up around the slide witches. No idea why I didn’t group all the switches In this section together... hindsight is 20/20, but perhaps this will make them easier to disguise in amongst the foreground scenery.  Since there are no decouplers to be installed here (more on that later), I’ve let excitememt get the better of me, cracked out the wet water, pipettes and PVA and started ballasting.
     

     
    For those that don’t know, wet water is in fact normal water with a drop or two of fairy liquid added to it (other dish detergent brands are available). This reduces the surface tension of the water droplets when sprayed over the loose ballast, and allows the water to seep down, around and under the stones and track.  A 50/50 PVA and water mix is then dropped/dribbled/splurged over the pre-moistened ballast, and seeps everywhere it needs to get to stick it all down nicely.  The PVA sets rock hard, some prefer to use other glue so the finished ballast is more springy and can be worked on later, but I’m not fussed. Plus PVA is super cheap. Noice.
     
    I’ve gone for a mixture of Woodhand Scenics ballasts, sourced from two model shops on eBay; medium grade “light gray” for newer, cleaner sections and fine grade “gray blend” for older dirty stuff.
     
    I wrapped my steel rule with cling film and taped it to the end of the board to get a flat edge to ballast up to, which I think worked well. I’ve managed to remove some paint from the sleepers when chipping off rogue stones after the glue has dried, so for my second round I used a tooth pick to do this while everything was still wet. Much better.
     
    What do we think of the ballast on sleepers on the main line? Inspired by a photo of the West Somerset Railway, but no idea why it’s there... is it new ballast waiting to be spread or tamped down?
     




     
    I’m pretty pleased with the results, I plan on weathering it down later to make it look more grimy. The rusty rails are too red in places, so a tin of Humbrol No. 29 enamel is in the post for me to try Instead of the No. 62 I have been using, though I do like the latter for super rusty bits such as disused sidings, trackside debris, etc.
     
    Concrete and Couplings.
     
    Two things have brought track laying to a halt for now:
     
    Firstly, the spray plastic primer wasn’t a match for Humbrol 72 Khaki Grey which I like for painting concrete sleepers.  I’m contemplating whether or not to brush paint 4 meters of flexitrack or take the plunge on an airbrush... The latter would take nearly £100 from the railway budget pot, so I’m leaning towards brushing by hand. I don’t need to be as fussy as I have been with the inside faces of the sleepers as the ballast covers it, so perhaps it wont be as bad as I think. Brush painting is quite satisfying too... but airbrushing is a new skill to learn! Choices choices.
     
    Secondly, I’ve decided to buy Kadee magnetic couplings as I feel I’ve outgrown tensionlock and don’t want the “Giant hand” descending to decouple locos. I have a small amount of rolling stock and I can afford £30 worth couplings to convert the lot, but the official Kadee decouplers are all a bit dear considering I need at least 6.
     
    So, after some research on this forum and others, I’ve bought a bag of 3mmø x 12mm neodymium magnets from First4Magnets.co.uk - really cheap, easy to install and from the videos I’ve seen they seem to work well... I’ll do some tests once they arrive and see how it goes!
     
    Signalling is another consideration, I think I’d like to keep it mechanical, perhaps with my wire in tube... but one that can wait for now. I’m also going to attempt to move two points with one slide switch for the platform run-around crossover. Fun and games ahead!
  7. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Kadee Couplings! For those that don’t know, they’re a more realistic looking coupling for model railways than the usual bulky tension lock ones we get on most models in the UK. They are made by an American company called Kadee (pronounced Kay-Dee as in K & D). Kadee just look more like something you’d expect to see on a train, and allow coaches and wagons to run closer together.
     
    I ordered a selection of Kadee’s for NEM pockets from Hattons, along with the rod magnets I’d ordered from First4Magnets. Testing has been done on a siding and I'm pretty happy with my version of a budget delayed action magnetic decoupler. Also it turns out that I what I thought were modern models fitted with NEM pockets for interchangeable couplings, are in fact not-so-modern models with the older, bigger clip-in style pockets. I've ordered some Dapol wagons from Hattons which I'm assuming/hoping will have NEM pockets. Either way, I'll be testing as we go.

    I was slightly disheartened initially as I thought I would have to order the underset gearbox style Kadee's, but some fettling with a drill has produced modified Kadee 18's, 19's & 20's that should fit both Hornby pockets and NEM pocket if I want to swap things around down the line.
     
    I have also bought the Kadee coupling gauge, which really is a necessity to set the decoupling pins height accurately. I found that this made more difference to reliability than the height of the magnets under the track. Half the Kadee's required pin bending once fitted to rolling stock; I didn't use the official bending pliers but just grabbed each end of the pin with pliers in each hand and gently bent the pins up or down. You almost don't know you've done it, it's very subtle.
     
    Photos & captions below.
     

    Here are two couplings fitted, with decoupling magnets fitted just under the track after much trial and error.  3mm holes were drilled in the top of the board and the magnets simply push in. There's plenty of grip to hold them in place but I think I'll use a drop of PVA going forwards to make it more permanent.  I only drilled through the top surface of the Ikea Linnmon tables I'm using for base boards, which is fine until you realise really need to push the magnets up from underneath to raise or remove them - hence the massacred sleepers from much grappling with pliers!
     

    The magnets in question - bought from First4Magnets.co.uk, arrived very quickly!
     


    A Kadee 18 modified to fit a Hornby pocket, and a comparison with the original Hornby tension lock. My process:
     
    Put the Kadee's swallow tail in a vice and drill a 2mm hole between the forks of the swallow tail, right where they meet at the knuckle end. I found the drill bit located itself in the right place, right at the tip of the V. Drill a 1.5mm hole at the base of the T piece of solid plastic, between the knuckle and the 2mm hole you just drilled. Use a Stanley or craft knife to cut through the plastic between the two new drill holes. Push into the Hornby pocket!  The 2mm hole should "click" locate around the shaft in the socket, the 1.5mm hole and knife cut allows the additional flex.  
    I found this works for Hornby pockets but not for the similar pocket on a Dapol GWR grain wagon, there was too much vertical wiggle room. A bit of glue or packing would fix this, but I'm trying to find ways to keep things both glue-free and semi permanent. I don't actually have much use for that wagon anyway...
     

    Two types of modified Kadee's fitted to each end of the Hornby auto coach, Kadee 18 on the left, Kadee 19 on the right, the latter giving an extra mm or so of clearance.  The modified 18 seems to be the best all-rounder and fits most of the Hornby non-NEM stock. Both coupled to the same butchered Kadee screwed onto a 6 plank wagon - see below.
     

    This was a Kadee 19 with swallow tails removed and a 1.5mm hole drilled through the centre of the T plastic. It was tricky to drill close enough to the knuckle so that the coupling would be nice and close, but without the head of the screw touching the knuckle which would stop it from pivoting freely and self centring on its little springs. I failed on the other end of this wagon. In future I will err on the side of leaving too much space between hole and knuckle, then file it into a slot if I need adjustment later.  I could have left the swallow tails attached - they actually rub on the axle slightly which might help stop the wagon rolling towards the magnets when decoupled. Might try that down the line if needed.
     

    I also had to file down the end of the stanchion that holds the coupling screw, as this was also rubbing on the knuckle and preventing it from self-centring.
     

    In other news, most of the track is ready to glue down now, I'm just waiting for steel wire to finish the station crossover switching, and the cable to finish the electrics under the boards. I will go through both in detail in subsequent posts.
     
    Oh and finally, as a random side project I'm trying to create a removable 5 plank wagon load using clingfilm. There is an M10 steel nut hurried in the ballast to add some weight, and the whole lot is being set using the trusty PVA/water mix... who knows if it'll work, lets see.
     

     
  8. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Copper vs Steel
     
    One of the point control wires I installed last week has broken where it bends 90º through the point bar, which I think tells me all I need to know about my copper vs steel wire conundrum...  Oh well, no going back now. So I‘ve reinforced it with an L pin made from 1.2mm wire through the point bar and soldered it back onto the existing control wire for now.


    Meanwhile, new 0.4mm stainless steel wire has arrived, (thank you Wires.co.uk)  which means I can crack on with the final two points at the far right of the layout, the platform runaround.  As it's a crossover, I want to use one switch to throw both points. Here's how I've done it:
     
    ...Oh and forgive the jaunty angle of some photos...!
     
     
    First, cork is cut away for the tubes and slide switch. Three 8mm holes are drilled in the top of the board and then filed into one rectangle for the slide switch to sit in. A 5mm hole is drilled through the bottom of the board (in my case an ikea Linnmon table top) for the cabling to drop through.

      The switch is a double pole on-on slide switch from CPC. The travel of the switch is pretty much an exact match for the travel of the points.
    The switch has to change the polarity of the frogs (the V section of rail) of both points, so everything is marked as to what supplies what. The white cables are already soldered to the point frogs and threaded up through the hole I drilled for the switch. The red and black wires are 15cm droppers which will poke down through the hole and crimp to the main DC bus wires.

      The switch is soldered up and everything is insulated with electrical tape - sadly my heat shrink kit is trapped at work in an empty theatre!

      With the switch in place, two 0.8mm holes are drilled through the head, one with the direction of travel and one across it.

      PTFE Tube (0.5mm ID / 1mm OD PTFE Tube from Amazon) is laid into the slots and held in place using hot glue.

      The tube is trimmed to length at the points and switch ends. Next, 0.4mm steel wire is threaded through the head of the switch and into the tube, and pushed through until there is about 5cm of excess is protruding past point no.1. The wire is then bent up through the hole in the point tie bar, folded over and cut so it cannot slip back through the bar. A small L shaped pin made from 1mm wire is pushed in with a drop of super glue to fill the hole completely, preventing the 0.4mm wire from rattling about in the hole. The top of the pin and the end of steel wire are joined with a drop of solder. Once the glue has dried, the control wire is now connected securely to the point tie bar.
    This is repeated for point no.2.

      The points can then be secured in place, with any adjustment in position facilitated by pulling or pushing more wire through the hole in the switch head. Once everything is fixed down,  the wires are then bent around the switch head and pushed through the hole running through the side of the switch, then trimmed to length. A drop of solder and/or superglue can be used to keep the wires in place around the switch head.

      Everything is filled in with hot glue, with any spillage or excess glue trimmed away using flush cutters or a Stanley knife. Once the glue has set, there should be no movement in the switch chassis, PTFE tube, or points. The switch should slide easily and change both points with a nice positive click!
     
    And thats it! I’m sure there are more elegant ways of doing it, but it cost me less than £30 for the parts to control 10 points, including switches, wire, PTFE tube and wiring. I have 8 points on this layout, so have spares left over for $@%& ups. Of course this does not include glue gun, soldering kit, hand tools, etc. and we shall see how reliable they are over time, but I’m confident!

    Next task is wiring up the main DC bus...!
     

  9. GWL

    Kingston Bridge
    Splicing.
     
    This...

    ...has turned into this...

    ...and it all works! (So far!)
     
    These quick splice crimps (from CPC of course) have been great - they clip onto the main bus wire, the dropper wire slots into the second hole and butts up against an end stop, then the blade contact is crimped across both conductors using pliers. The insulating lid is then folded down and clips into place. It can get a bit tough on the hands after 50 splices as you need to exert some force on the pliers to crush the splice down, but they are reliable and made the whole job so much quicker than terminal blocks or soldering. 

    Everything is cable tied to the underside of the board using 19x19mm adhesive bases - both from Amazon. The dead-end splices have two cable ties to stop them slipping out, and the trailing main bus feed wires have been loomed together using electrical tape and the bare ends tinned. I may put a connector on the end and make a Junction box that sits on the floor for each board to plug into, along with the controller feed. One for another day.

     
    My two dusty old locos are running as well as I can expect, but the time has come for a brand new ready-to-run engine to test my track laying, electrics, and magnetic decoupling properly and hopefully provide some more enjoyable running sessions free from the “giant hand in the sky”.
     
    So, I’ve splurged this months budget on a DJ Models GWR 1361 from KMRC. At £69 I hope its as good a bargain as the reviews suggest...

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