CFL

Just a footnote to round up this query, as said I managed to fix the problem with the help of forum members here. In doing so I actually found out a lot to the point where I reckon I could install and programme a chip in a DCC ready loco. The shop was called by phone today and given a blow-by-blow of the grief and personal intervention by me. Of course it wasn't the guy at the shop that did the work, he sends it to a supposedly pro fitter who charges the shop, plus they have to make a bit of a mark up (fair enough or they would go out of business which nobody wants). The shop owner was incredibly apologetic and promised three things: 1) The 5 passenger coaches in for light fitting will be done for free 2) I will get a €50 credit note for my trouble 3) the 'pro' will get a serious shouting at So all in all it was a pain but finally remedied (that screw being a power bus still beats me, haven't seen it since I did G) and like I said loads of great and useful input here, but like Arnie said: "I'll be back"

I did use masking tape to make a sort of loom with a narrow binding every few centimetres, the chip itself was held on a strangely well placed size and shape of free body with double-sided tape then the loom tucked in out of harms way. I did need the black electricians tape though as there was light seepage at the rear where the body and chassis meet, the bulb being in the chassis and the lamps on the body. A few minutes with a bit of tape and a scalpel (mind the fingers) and job done. I now own the only Liliput BR91 that will spring apart by itself when told to.

Well, that was a huge surprise! Following Nigeliffe's advice I turned the loco over and got the magnifying glass out again this morning. There didn't seem to be much that even I could damage, sure there were brass wipers to the back of the driver wheels but set deep down, the rest seems to be in the motor block with a PCB mounted on it with the components facing down out of harms way. I carried on looking and noticed a hefty brass contact strip at the front pony truck, this came backwards to the hole where the one and only body / chassis fixing screw went through. Nah, far too easy, but then again I did the testing with the body off... So I turned the chip plug to the opposite way the shop did and fitted everything back together, reprogrammed the loco (including changing CV 29 by -1) and hey presto! It works perfectly. I am now going to invite disaster by opening it up again as the wires from the connector to the chip come dangerously close to the motion, a bit of electricians tape should see to that. Very many thanks to everybody for your helpful input otherwise I would be a gibbering wreck by now.

No idea and it wasn't mentioned. The shop is very small so only two people were allowed in at a time so the owner was stressed - but not too stressed to take my money. Don't worry, he will get an earful when I next see him.

If I had pushed any harder on the blanking plate or pin connector the pins would have come out above the PCB! No, seriously, I made sure the connections were secure without going like a bull at a gate. Too right I feel I was overcharged, but they now have five coaches of mine in for DCC lighting so when I go to fetch those someone will get his posterior chewed!

Too true about the price, I think I can get my car serviced for that and could definitely buy a brand new loco. Sadly this loco is a CFL version which are the proverbial hens teeth. Good idea about knocking something astray when taking the lid off, I will look tomorrow when the sun is switched on again. Thanks Ian

The wrong way round was my first guess, but as I had paid €150 for a pro to fit a €39 chip I thought I must be mistaken. I tried turning the plug without joy so pulled it completely and put the DC blank back and tried the loco on the oval I am building for my grandaughter (her DC locos work fine). Bad news, the locomotive is stone dead which I can't see as coming from the plug of the chip orientation and why has it died in DC mode? No smells and no Lucas-smoke. As it stands the loco has the chip mounted as done by the shop and I have done another factory reset. I am not well pleased with the shop, next time I will ask to see the loco in operation before handing over the bank card. Having said that the chipping was so easy I will do it myself in future on a DCC ready loco. Cheers, Ian

First the gear: Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance² HO Liliput BR91 (article no. L109117) ESU LokPilot 5 micro a programming/test track on a plank So I took the loco to 'The Shop' to have the chip fitted then brought it home and put it on the test track. To convert from programming to test I simply swap the wires behind the Prodigy as the track length is long enough. Turned the knob and the loco went the wrong way and neither set of directional lights came on. Set the track to programming and did a reset to factory values (CV8=8), pulled the plug out of the wall and left it for 10 minutes. Plugged back in and did the setup as usual but altered CV29 to change direction. The loco grumbled and lurched but still no lights. The settings I was using were from a Märklin loco fitted with a LokPilot 4 where the starting voltage was 3V, so I changed the Liliput to 4V and it started and ran smoothly but still no lights. I have looked everywhere on the 'net but everybody talks about the LokSound 5 with PDF's available but not the LokPilot, I went through the handbook (German, grey print, tiny. I was wearing reading glasses and using a magnifying glass). The so called manual says there are fantastic lighting setups available but does not clearly tell you how to activate them, especially with one button (F0) as on the LokPilot 4. Anybody have any ideas? I don't really want to fiddle with the big number CV's if it can be avoided. I could contact ESU but I expect they will direct me to the handbook, also I doubt the man at 'The Shop' is going to have more of an idea than I. Over to you...

I just ordered a pair of '4s' and they claim the '8s' plus all the point motors should be available as of next week.

Covid it is, the motors are made in China. I too want to buy a bunch but until they arrive will just have to carry on making models, painting details, attacking eBay etc.

As it is the only line between Luxembourg and Germany we get everything from steamies - the German ones have to stop here as their braking system doesn't conform to our norms, so the preserved "5519" a private big steamie comes down and they double head up out of the valley, very impressive - to some weird MoW contraptions in scary yellow paintjobs. The industrial railway workings are still going strong, the Port of Mertert is in our commune and lies about halfway between Wasserbillig and Grevenmacher. The port itself is private and so the CFL don't run there and that is why there is no catenary (the national system is all electrified) and the port has two twee little diesels to move wagons to the side of the dock for loading / unloading barges. The trains are then marshalled on a vast yard and set up as trains either to go to Germany or Bettembourg which is the huge freight hub for Luxembourg. These days I think signing a book and wearing a Hi-Viz would only get you as far as a platform, if that. Draconian isn't the word, even unmanned stations have security gorillas.

Also the cheaper, basic white z21 doesn't have wifi capability but it can be added afterwards. The horribly expensive, black Z21 comes with wifi as standard - but then if you need other add ons your credit card is going to take a bashing. Take a look here at the comparison chart: 20190910_Roco_Accessories.pdf I was very recently in your position, but living in europe looked at the 'local' makes but, as I said the prices were horribly disproportionate to the layout. I finally shelled out for the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance² which seems to do more than all I need plus seems to be idiot and bomb proof (mustn't forget the customer backup, I had a problem and they were very good at talking me through the actions needed although in the end it was the loco!) Good hunting!

Betzdorf? Two dungheaps and a mushroom farm, oops those are dish antenna at SES which is probably the only employer there, but from the train it looks like mushrooms on steroids. There is now a special shed, okay museum, for the old trams and buses, in town I really ought to go some time, and I really have to go the Fonds-de-Gras for the functioning NG railway. Better start charging the batteries for the camera!

It is a lovely city (the old part) but I have to get through the new part to see it! I actually live on the very eastern tip of Luxembourg - literally - at the confluence of the Sûre and Moselle rivers which form most of the border with Germany at Wasserbillig. Great view of the L-D railway out of the living room window and I often see some 'specials'. The closest city is Trier (where my better half originates from) in Germany at about 15 minutes drive and a whole two model railway shops. I mentioned I am trying to model an interchange station and Wasserbillig used to be just that, now the DB don't come over and the CFL go over there.

Right then, been from Z to G having had my first Hornby trainset aged four care of dad, there has always been a model railway somewhere. The last was a big G setup but then we moved into a flat and somehow a 'Garden' railway wouldn't cut it on the balcony so I am back to HO. I am trying to get epoch III (mid 1950s) where diesel was just starting to make inroads to steam modelled with a roughly end-to-end layout (with corners?) one end being DB for Germany and the other CFL for Luxembourg with an interchange front centre and a goods shed and sidings behind. DCC if and when I can get my head round it, the gear is almost all here but my local model shop is in Trier in Germany and the guy is chipping some locos, but the border is well and truly shut. Personally I was born in Stoke-on-Trent but grew up in Derby, I left school at 16 and the country at 20 having been fed up with signing UB40s, came to Luxembourg and took root. Having been here for 37 years I took out Luxembourgish nationality but have kept British nationality too. Sadly, or not depending on your point of view, I was classed as an invalid about 10 years ago so more hobby time if the Missus will let me. Cheers, Ian