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Posts posted by Jim Easterbrook
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20 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said:
First you need a "DC Supply Socket Female Panel Mount Connector 5.5x2.1mm".
I'm using a 5.5 x 2.5 mm socket with my PowerCab (I've mounted the PCP panel on a box with a current limiter and voltmeter). The plug on my PSU lead is a nice snug fit on a 2.5 mm rod.
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Various Fleischmann couplings are shown here: https://www.fleischmann.de/fen/products/coaches-and-wagons/exchange-couplings.html?verfuegbarkeit_status=41%2C42%2C43%2C45%2C44&spur=296
The standard couplings 9521 and 9522 don't appear to have quite the same fitting clip as on your model. Have you tried to unclip the cover on the underside to see what lies within?
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On 14/03/2024 at 23:39, the Goblin said:
I have heard of the Dapol couplers. I assume I would need to do some surgery to fit a NEM coupling box?
If there isn't room to fit a NEM socket (on old stock with T-shank rapidos) you can do some surgery on a Dapol coupler.
Fitting Dapol couplers to Arnold 2923 railcar by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
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2 hours ago, ruggedpeak said:
Do that on a model and everyone will criticise the poor modelling of a carriage.
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I wonder how long the mini-market queue will eventually be.
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1 hour ago, Vecchio said:
Speaking about speed curves and Zimo - How do you all do your speed measurements?
What I do is using a test circle with a rather large curve radius and some straight set track and time the speed per regulation step manually (stopwatch) over 2 meters.
I also use a test oval but measure circuit timings with an Arduino and an optical proximity detector. A simple program gives me the scale speed for each lap. (The lowest speeds take 20 minutes or so per lap, so I can go and do something else for a while. Then come back and find the loco stopped on a bit of dirt.)
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17 hours ago, PaulRhB said:
Yes unusual way of doing it to what I’m used to where the third and fourth numbers are just sub versions of 4.1, 4.2, 4.5 etcShould really be 4-50, 4-229 rather than using a decimal point.
Standard for software versioning though. Version 1.10 is higher than version 1.9 as leading zeroes for each part are suppressed. Think of it as two numbers (major and minor) separated by a dot.
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A bit about this on the BBC web site: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-65926381
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Doh! My mistake, yes yellow and white to white lights at each end, green and purple to red lights at each end. You can still use just F1 though - it should be possible to make it directional like F0.
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It's not the wiring you need to change, it's the decoder function mapping. This varies with manufacturer (and maybe decoder model) but I've had no problem getting all my locos to have directional headlights on F0 and directional tail lights on F1.
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6 hours ago, Gordonwis said:
Note the additional information for the two sets with locos included is VERY interesting (what is a 'slotless motor?)
From this product, the motor of Ge4/4-III included in the basic/starter set will be changed to a slotless motor. Along with that, the product number, JAN code, and price will be changed.
Mistranslation of "coreless motor"? A conventional armature has 3 (or 5) "slots" in which the coils sit. A coreless motor armature doesn't have such obvious "slots".
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7 hours ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:
The section from 2 to 3 minutes has the makings of a compact continuous-run display layout, with some staging sidings hidden behind the elevated houses to the left? Nice video, Keith.
The zoom lens makes those curves appear tighter than reality. I reckon this is where that bit of the video is.
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11 hours ago, PaulRhB said:
getting the four wheel wagons apart is easy to replace the steel with lead.
Get one nail on the top body and one on an axlebox and it pops apart.
Note that if you still have the original couplers they need to be unclipped before separating the body parts.
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I briefly looked for replacement screws. I found a lot of different types of self-tapping screw, including some specifically for injection moulded plastics. I didn't find any that are a fraction under 2 mm diameter though. I'd want an exact replacement as cutting different threads will likely lead to no thread.
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That's an extra complexity I was hoping to avoid.
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Micro-Trains or Dapol, you need an uncoupling magnet. Unfortunately the Lb-v wagons have a steel weight in the chassis and the Sb-t wagons have steel screws to attach the bogies. Both are attracted by uncoupling magnets.
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16 hours ago, Jim Easterbrook said:
Cutting bits off and gluing on a Dapol sleeve is easier.
It really is easier. First cut off the Kato coupler.
Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
Second, glue a back (Dapol shim) onto a Dapol sleeve.
Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
Third, glue the modified sleeve to the bogie.
Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
Fourth, fit a short Dapol coupling and reattach to the wagon.
Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
PS I'm using plumbers' solvent weld to glue the bits together. It works on both Dapol and Kato plastic, but it needs to be used sparingly. Don't get it anywhere near the keyhole slot on the Dapol sleeve as it'll reshape it!
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2 hours ago, PaulRhB said:
A NEM box for the Kato wagons or to fit the coach bogies would be good too 😉I'm a complete beginner at 3D design - let me crawl before I attempt a run!
Given the requirement to swing side to side by quite a large angle and the limited space in an unmodified wagon or bogie I'm not sure it would be possible. Cutting bits off and gluing on a Dapol sleeve is easier.
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On 09/08/2022 at 19:25, PaulRhB said:
Fitting 1017’s to the new Kato wagons
I've decided to go over to Dapol NEM for my RhB stuff.
Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
I'm designing a 3D printed NEM coupler that I hope will be compatible with Kato's close coupler. This should give me more options.
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6 hours ago, Gordonwis said:
Yes, as I'm authoring an article for Today's Railways Europe I've been keeping an eye on the RhB stock changes and noticed a significant number of conversions back to red this year including 620, 629, 650 and VERY notably 651 (ex Glacier on Tour)
Is this an effect of the recession causing a drop in advertising contracts?
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4 hours ago, PaulRhB said:
I think that stands up rather well Jim, considering the variety of types you’d need to look very close to notice and certainly wouldn’t on a layout at normal distances.Thanks. I'm not planning to "retire" my efforts now I have something better. The more stock the merrier, I say.
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Another night and day comparison. Kato on the right, my attempt (based on a Kato wagon chassis and a 3D printed container) on the left.
Kato RhB freight wagon set by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr
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17 hours ago, PaulRhB said:
Bit of a struggle to get the body off the first time, Jim F also had that issue with his. I also installed a decoder and it worked fine until I put the body on 🤨
After taking the body off, easily this time, I discovered that the light bar was pressing down on the contact end and disconnecting the decoder!
Is this the Digitrax replacement board? On my old Ge 4/4 II the body shell wouldn't go back on properly until I removed some webs inside the roof that were pressing down on components on the decoder board where the original board was flat.
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Useful NCE Powercab PCP Panel modification.
in DCC Help & Questions
Posted · Edited by Jim Easterbrook
Addendum re sprung contacts.
I've run into problems with these power plugs before (Skywatcher EQ-6 mount, for those who know what that is). I wonder if NCE changed socket type at some point. Something to check before buying a socket anyway.
Another point to check is that sometimes the sprung contact is in the plug and sometimes it's in the socket. Unsprung plug in unsprung socket means trouble.