Jim Easterbrook

I've run into problems with these power plugs before (Skywatcher EQ-6 mount, for those who know what that is). I wonder if NCE changed socket type at some point. Something to check before buying a socket anyway. Another point to check is that sometimes the sprung contact is in the plug and sometimes it's in the socket. Unsprung plug in unsprung socket means trouble.

I'm using a 5.5 x 2.5 mm socket with my PowerCab (I've mounted the PCP panel on a box with a current limiter and voltmeter). The plug on my PSU lead is a nice snug fit on a 2.5 mm rod.

Various Fleischmann couplings are shown here: https://www.fleischmann.de/fen/products/coaches-and-wagons/exchange-couplings.html?verfuegbarkeit_status=41%2C42%2C43%2C45%2C44&spur=296 The standard couplings 9521 and 9522 don't appear to have quite the same fitting clip as on your model. Have you tried to unclip the cover on the underside to see what lies within?

If there isn't room to fit a NEM socket (on old stock with T-shank rapidos) you can do some surgery on a Dapol coupler. Fitting Dapol couplers to Arnold 2923 railcar by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr

Do that on a model and everyone will criticise the poor modelling of a carriage.

I wonder how long the mini-market queue will eventually be.

I also use a test oval but measure circuit timings with an Arduino and an optical proximity detector. A simple program gives me the scale speed for each lap. (The lowest speeds take 20 minutes or so per lap, so I can go and do something else for a while. Then come back and find the loco stopped on a bit of dirt.)

Standard for software versioning though. Version 1.10 is higher than version 1.9 as leading zeroes for each part are suppressed. Think of it as two numbers (major and minor) separated by a dot.

A bit about this on the BBC web site: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-65926381

Doh! My mistake, yes yellow and white to white lights at each end, green and purple to red lights at each end. You can still use just F1 though - it should be possible to make it directional like F0.

It's not the wiring you need to change, it's the decoder function mapping. This varies with manufacturer (and maybe decoder model) but I've had no problem getting all my locos to have directional headlights on F0 and directional tail lights on F1.

Mistranslation of "coreless motor"? A conventional armature has 3 (or 5) "slots" in which the coils sit. A coreless motor armature doesn't have such obvious "slots".

The zoom lens makes those curves appear tighter than reality. I reckon this is where that bit of the video is. https://goo.gl/maps/1fHR2kPJ6zWQ4JeD7

Note that if you still have the original couplers they need to be unclipped before separating the body parts.

I briefly looked for replacement screws. I found a lot of different types of self-tapping screw, including some specifically for injection moulded plastics. I didn't find any that are a fraction under 2 mm diameter though. I'd want an exact replacement as cutting different threads will likely lead to no thread.

That's an extra complexity I was hoping to avoid.

Micro-Trains or Dapol, you need an uncoupling magnet. Unfortunately the Lb-v wagons have a steel weight in the chassis and the Sb-t wagons have steel screws to attach the bogies. Both are attracted by uncoupling magnets.

It really is easier. First cut off the Kato coupler. Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Second, glue a back (Dapol shim) onto a Dapol sleeve. Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Third, glue the modified sleeve to the bogie. Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Fourth, fit a short Dapol coupling and reattach to the wagon. Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB Sb-t wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr PS I'm using plumbers' solvent weld to glue the bits together. It works on both Dapol and Kato plastic, but it needs to be used sparingly. Don't get it anywhere near the keyhole slot on the Dapol sleeve as it'll reshape it!

I'm a complete beginner at 3D design - let me crawl before I attempt a run! Given the requirement to swing side to side by quite a large angle and the limited space in an unmodified wagon or bogie I'm not sure it would be possible. Cutting bits off and gluing on a Dapol sleeve is easier.

I've decided to go over to Dapol NEM for my RhB stuff. Fitting Dapol NEM couplers to Kato RhB wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr I'm designing a 3D printed NEM coupler that I hope will be compatible with Kato's close coupler. This should give me more options.

Is this an effect of the recession causing a drop in advertising contracts?

Thanks. I'm not planning to "retire" my efforts now I have something better. The more stock the merrier, I say.

Another night and day comparison. Kato on the right, my attempt (based on a Kato wagon chassis and a 3D printed container) on the left. Kato RhB freight wagon set by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr

Is this the Digitrax replacement board? On my old Ge 4/4 II the body shell wouldn't go back on properly until I removed some webs inside the roof that were pressing down on components on the decoder board where the original board was flat.

Mine arrived (in the UK) this morning. Kato RhB freight wagon set by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr