BenNewland
Members-
Posts
29 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Everything posted by BenNewland
-
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before, but there is another great thread. Well I think it is great. Perhaps other don't like the idea. But is it "bashing" cheap and cheerful locos into something nice. I have had so much inspiration from this thread. I probably won't be able to do any model making for a few years, so I dip in and out of this to dream of my next project... To give you an example (if I may): This loco above, started life as a my first ever loco, Smokey Joe, which was bought for me for my 7th birthday. At first it was a little hard chopping it about etc, but it was very rewarding seeing it come together. I put one of those cheap geared N20 motors in it (I think my gearing was actually too low, because although it crawls so nicely, it is noisy as its very slow top speed). The cylinders are made from brass rod, as are the slide bars and the cross head is made from a fosters beer can and a nail: The rest is plasticard and (lots of) milliput filler: I know it doesn't past master for a proper scale model of anything and but it was really fun to make. I have one massive expensive caveat to make, my father bought me a second hand Cowells lathe, so that is how I made the safety valve cover and chimney, but I am sure these could be sawed off scrap models or bought reasonably cheaply. Lastly, I would just like to say what has been said before. I have bought a brand new W4 Peckett, and ages ago I bought a second hand, but very good condition Bachmann small prairie. They have largely stayed in the boxes compared to my bashes etc. The tinkering that goes on with these is more fun. I don't know why, but I value these so much more than the (few) expensive models I have. Happy modelling all, Ben
-
Hi All, I have a strange request. Does anyone have a front end of a Hornby/triang 3F "jinty" hanging around that they don't need? I'm halfway through bashing one into a freelance Johnson looking loco backdated to having a round firebox etc. I tried "gently" warming the loco with an air gun to straighten the footplate. All was going really well, when I did "one last adjustment", and the loco melted. Really gutted. I do want to attack it again, but I had already spent ages on the new cab, hence why asking for the front end. You're the only bunch crazy enough to have a front end (front 1/3rd) of a loco hanging around in a box somewhere. Of course I would pay postage etc. Thanks in advance. Ben
-
GWR 28 “Cleobury” – ex-CM&DPLR
BenNewland replied to RosiesBoss's topic in Modifying & Detailing RTR stock
Thanks for those details. It must be nice aquiring a smooth running chassis as blank sheet to work from. Well done. Ben -
Hi Gary, Thanks for that. Thanks for the info about the paint scheme too. I like it. The umber looks almost black, but works realy well with the lining. I think that you might find that the painted rods and motion may well be the issue with the jerky running. It is a shame. Perhaps a tiny bit of oil applied with a thin wire, might help. Otherwise, it is probably quite a tricky job to take it off and use paint stipper etc to take it off. When mine was jerky, the connecting rod was rubbing everso slightly agains the bracket holding the valve gear motion (sliders?). After a while the paint rubbed off and it worked smoothly. Very brave to hack up a perfectly good model. Impressed. Thanks, Ben
-
I have to say that isn't my favourite prototype to model, but it oozes character. You have done a really impressive job of modelling it too. Can I just say that if that was mine now, I would add a grey or brownish wash to it, which runs into corners and brings out the detail, but also blends different colours into each other well. I would experiment with an acrylic wash or two, (it would grime up the wheels a bit too), then give it a waft of satin or matt varnish (not much mind, just a wee bit). However, my brother things my locos are too dull and should be more shiny, so probably more down to personal taste I guess. Just an idea. Brilliant stuff and inspriational for others to try. One question, does it roll freely? I.e. could it be pushed along by another loco (double heading for instance)?
-
Thanks Moxy, Those locos 802 or 806 look like what I should be aiming at. Much appreciated, you save hours of searching (though they are always fun hours looking at locos!). Hi Malcom, that sort of talk is worrying for me as I just go by guessing, hence freelance models being me preferred option! Sounds like you did a great job. Do you have a photo to show on here? Thanks both, Ben
-
Help/advice wanted. Now, you lot are an imaginative bunch. Sorry if this is not on topic, but help would be appreciated, and if I get a roundtuit then I can post it on here as a bash. I am looking at the Hornby J83 (number 8473) that I had since a child. My railway inclin is towards pregrouping, GWR primarily, but also LMS, LNWR or something that might have operated in Wales. Does anyone have any bright ideas of what I could chop it into? Pictures, or drawings would be great, and I am not worried about exactly matching lengths, would just like it to look acceptable to the eye. I also have two old Triang/Hornby 0-6-0's one a Pannier andthe other a Jinty. I was wondering about converting the clearly spottable cab on the Jinty and removing the belpaire (is that right?) firebox to a round topped one. Or half open cab would be nice. Anyway, any ideas welcome. Thanks, Ben Thanks in advance
-
Hi Tubs, What did you use to make those cylinders, are they from the Dapol/kitmaster pug kit? Am I right in assuming your connecting rod isn't connected to the slide bar? I've been eyeing up some plastic Dapol kit cylinders and seeing if they could fit another smokey joe, but the length of the slide bars seems to short for the range of motion needed. Any details gratefully received. I know other people on this thread have used spare motion from a GWR loco (castle class I think) -just the plastic components are free and many N gauge locos from Germany used plastic motion without problems. Thanks, Ben Ben
-
Well, that is a very impressive attempt. Brilliant stuff, especially if you are a beginner. I'm another vote for AC stadden figures. They have incredible detail. If you just want them to go far inside the cab, you could buy some cheap figures from china on e bay. They are also smaller than 4mm figures. The bright colours on them would need toning down/repainting though!! Well done, Ben
-
The N20 motors are cheap and the 2000 rpm gives a nice slow running ability. However, the original request was for one where you don't have the change the worm size. I think (please correct me) that the N20 has a larger diameter rod (3mm I think), than the original one from Toby (about 1.5mm maybe?). Hope that helps, but I don't know of a smaller motor with the same size worm. Ben
-
Oh, that can't go to waste. It looks lovely. I actually really like the faded look. I could make space in my attic, but live 4 hours away and still in full lock down. Hmm, 8 hour round trip... so tempting. Please don't bin it! Someone bring it to life.