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BenNewland

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Posts posted by BenNewland

  1. I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before, but there is another great thread. Well I think it is great. Perhaps other don't like the idea. But is it "bashing" cheap and cheerful locos into something nice. I have had so much inspiration from this thread. I probably won't be able to do any model making for a few years, so I dip in and out of this to dream of my next project...

     

    To give you an example (if I may):

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    This loco above, started life as a my first ever loco, Smokey Joe, which was bought for me for my 7th birthday. At first it was a little hard chopping it about etc, but it was very rewarding seeing it come together. I put one of those cheap geared N20 motors in it (I think my gearing was actually too low, because although it crawls so nicely, it is noisy as its very slow top speed).

     

    The cylinders are made from brass rod, as are the slide bars and the cross head is made from a fosters beer can and a nail:

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    The rest is plasticard and (lots of) milliput filler:

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    I know it doesn't past master for a proper scale model of anything and but it was really fun to make.

     

    I have one massive expensive caveat to make, my father bought me a second hand Cowells lathe, so that is how I made the safety valve cover and chimney, but I am sure these could be sawed off scrap models or bought reasonably cheaply.

     

    Lastly, I would just like to say what has been said before. I have bought a brand new W4 Peckett, and ages ago I bought a second hand, but very good condition Bachmann small prairie. They have largely stayed in the boxes compared to my bashes etc. The tinkering that goes on with these is more fun. I don't know why, but I value these so much more than the (few) expensive models I have.

     

    Happy modelling all,

    Ben

    • Like 4
    • Craftsmanship/clever 4
    • Round of applause 1
  2. Hi All,

    I have a strange request. Does anyone have a front end of a Hornby/triang 3F "jinty" hanging around that they don't need?

     

    I'm halfway through bashing one into a freelance Johnson looking loco backdated to having a round firebox etc. I tried "gently" warming the loco with an air gun to straighten the footplate. All was going really well, when I did "one last adjustment", and the loco melted.

     

    Really gutted. I do want to attack it again, but I had already spent ages on the new cab, hence why asking for the front end.

     

    You're the only bunch crazy enough to have a front end  (front 1/3rd) of a loco hanging around in a box somewhere.

     

    Of course I would pay postage etc.

     

    Thanks in advance.

    Ben

  3. On 05/10/2021 at 14:44, Barclay said:

    Not quite R-T-R but these cast lead tank engine bodies by Stewart Reidpath have some potential. It was a generic tank engine body which I think originated in HO scale before the war but was widened subsequently when 00 became more popular.

     

    Conversion to an industrial loco in EM gauge that looks a certain amount like a Hawthorn Leslie locomotive involved grinding off the smokebox extension plus splashers and sandboxes with a Dremel. It then received a new smokebox wrapper from 10 thou brass riveted in the GW Models press, a chimney from the spares box and a GE N7 dome from SE Finecast. Safety valves are Tri-ang. The chassis frames and rods are leftovers from an Impetus Bagnall kit and the cylinders/slidebars/crossheads are scratchbuilt.

     

    Power is from a Minebea 6 pole motor driving Romford 40:1 gears using a Branchlines motor mount/gearbox. 

     

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    Amazing work. That smokebox band with the rivets looks very neat. You can hardly see the original maroon! Very good.

    Ben

    • Thanks 1
  4. 2 hours ago, The Johnster said:

    Is my half-built Collett 31xx large prairie too big to be considered for this thread?  Details over on 'Modifying Kits & RTR', but a bit crude for the standards here; there is some inspirational stuff! 

     

    For those who find GW locos confusing, and even some of us GW types find the large prairies to be a bit of a muddle, the Collett 31xx is the final development of the line started in 1906 by the Churchward 31xx (different class, extinct by 1938 when the Collett 31xx was introduced).  This loco was the forerunner of the 5101 and 61xx large prairies, and some of them were rebuilt into 5101 specification by Collett.  They had no.2 boilers and 5'8" driving wheels; there was no visual difference between 5101 and 61xx, the latter had higher boiler pressure.  The next development was the 81xx, which also had the 61xx's higher boiler pressure but smaller, 5'6", driving wheels. 

     

    In the meantime, Churchward had added to the original 31xx class by producing the 3150 class, identical but for a larger no.4 boiler.  These were 'modernised' by Collett in a similar way to the no.2 boilered large prairies, with top feeds, new cabs, curved drops to the front frames, outside steam pipes, and extended bunkers.  The Collett 31xx was the final development of these no.4 boilered large prairies, a rebuilt 3150 with a higher boiler pressure combined with 5'3" driving wheels, and hence a lower running plate that allowed a higher domed cab roof.  Picture the result of a terrible accident (or an ill-advised night of drunken sex, or both) involving a re-wheeled running chassis, running plate, tanks, cab sides, and bunker from an Airfix 61xx, the boiler and drop front running plate/buffer beam from a Mainline 43xx, and a 56xx cab roof with front and rear bulkheads.

     

    Collett apparently considered there was more to be had from the large prairies, and intended to continue new production of the 81xx and to rebuild all of the 3150s into his new 31xx design, but the war and his retirement intervened, and his successor, F.W. Hawksworth, did not pursue this line, ordering more 5101s which were built until 1950.  Only 5 Collett 31xx were built, and were all withdrawn by the end of 1960. 

    I'm no admin, but I'd say post it. Not sure size has much to do with things, more the fun of bashing and bodging than anything else. I'm bodging my way through an LMS tank engine at the moment, not sure how it will turn out.

    Ben

    PS, I live in Cardiff too, but the streets aren't so mean here!

     

    • Like 2
  5. On 10/08/2021 at 23:45, BlueLightning said:

     

    Ask and ye shall receive, yes she's a bit jerky at slow speeds, no problem when going faster, hopefully some running will help that, but she did get a repaint by someone else before I had her (although not a lot of running, so I still don't think she is run in) and they also painted the con rods, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it, I shall have to try removing it.

     

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    yes she is the Hornby model, obviously the biggest change I have made is the removal of the cab, and the dumb buffers, She has acquired a number since my video the other day, also known as me sticking the DCC address on the side in nice large numbers so I can read it!

     

    The livery is Humbrol number 25 blue, with Phoenix Precision LBSCR Marsh Umber around the edges of the panels, and Fox Transfers white-black-white lining. The name is from my K's Lion kit (Lion wearing the name Thunderbolt instead). Next job, add a crew, which will be from Andy Stadden's Victorian Loco Crew range.

     

    Gary

    Hi Gary,

    Thanks for that. Thanks for the info about the paint scheme too. I like it. The umber looks almost black, but works realy well with the lining.

    I think that you might find that the painted rods and motion may well be the issue with the jerky running. It is a shame. Perhaps a tiny bit of oil applied with a thin wire, might help. Otherwise, it is probably quite a tricky job to take it off and use paint stipper etc to take it off.

     

    When mine was jerky, the connecting rod was rubbing everso slightly agains the bracket holding the valve gear motion (sliders?). After a while the paint rubbed off and it worked smoothly.

     

    Very brave to hack up a perfectly good model. Impressed.

     

    Thanks,

    Ben

    • Thanks 1
  6. On 05/08/2021 at 16:56, BlueLightning said:

     

    A whole SER O Class, and the trackwork and electrics on a new layout!!

     

     

    Sounds wonderful, I hope you enjoy yourself!!

     

    and to bring this back on topic, 7 seconds of a Peckettbash shunting some wagons on said new layout, one day I'll give it a crew, it's rather obvious that they are missing!!

     

     

    If there are any chance of more photos of your Peckettbash, I'd like to see them. Is that the Hornby model? It seems a tiny bit jerky in its running. Mine was like that until I ran it in, and a bit of paint wore off the con rods and it all ran smoothly after that.

    Ben

  7. 2 hours ago, 33C said:

    Just finished a (very) little side project. A Neilson "Jumbo" 0-4-0 ST from the Beckton Gas Works stud. An un-powered model with the books that inspired me.20210515_203603.jpg.8e3b9af7faa7e3a4b49f5cad6d993ea3.jpg

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    I have to say that isn't my favourite prototype to model, but it oozes character. You have done a really impressive job of modelling it too. Can I just say that if that was mine now, I would add a grey or brownish wash to it, which runs into corners and brings out the detail, but also blends different colours into each other well. I would experiment with an acrylic wash or two, (it would grime up the wheels a bit too), then give it a waft of satin or matt varnish (not much mind, just a wee bit). However, my brother things my locos are too dull and should be more shiny, so probably more down to personal taste I guess. Just an idea. Brilliant stuff and inspriational for others to try. One question, does it roll freely? I.e. could it be pushed along by another loco (double heading for instance)?

    • Like 3
  8. Thanks Moxy,

    Those locos 802 or 806 look like what I should be aiming at. Much appreciated, you save hours of searching (though they are always fun hours looking at locos!).

     

    Hi Malcom, that sort of talk is worrying for me as I just go by guessing, hence freelance models being me preferred option! Sounds like you did a great job. Do you have a photo to show on here?

     

    Thanks both,

    Ben

  9. Help/advice wanted.

     

    Now, you lot are an imaginative bunch. Sorry if this is not on topic, but help would be appreciated, and if I get a roundtuit then I can post it on here as a bash.

     

    I am looking at the Hornby J83 (number 8473) that I had since a child.

    My railway inclin is towards pregrouping, GWR primarily, but also LMS, LNWR or something that might have operated in Wales. Does anyone have any bright ideas of what I could chop it into? Pictures, or drawings would be great, and I am not worried about exactly matching lengths, would just like it to look acceptable to the eye.

     

    I also have two old Triang/Hornby 0-6-0's one a Pannier andthe other a Jinty. I was wondering about converting the clearly spottable cab on the Jinty and removing the belpaire (is that right?) firebox to a round topped one. Or half open cab would be nice.

     

    Anyway, any ideas welcome.

     

    Thanks,

    Ben

     

    Thanks in advance

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  10. On 19/01/2021 at 11:35, tubs01 said:

    Yeah they're from the Dapol kit, I haven't got the connecting rods yet but when I do I'll just drill a hole wherever it's needed and trim the rest.

    Thanks Tubs, good to know,

    and thanks 33C about just using plastic for the connecting rod. I wouldn't have tried that, but if you say it works...

    I guess there is no load on it.

    Thanks,

    Ben

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  11. On 15/01/2021 at 22:54, tubs01 said:

    Not exactly a pugbash but here's a thing I'm working on. The Hornby pug really does like nice with some light weathering and better cylinders 20210115_213621.jpg.85cf56d97b4c25ab3cbe0cc63e23732e.jpg

    Hi Tubs,

    What did you use to make those cylinders, are they from the Dapol/kitmaster pug kit? Am I right in assuming your connecting rod isn't connected to the slide bar? I've been eyeing up some plastic Dapol kit cylinders and seeing if they could fit another smokey joe, but the length of the slide bars seems to short for the range of motion needed. Any details gratefully received. I know other people on this thread have used spare motion from a GWR loco (castle class I think) -just the plastic components are free and many N gauge locos from Germany used plastic motion without problems.

    Thanks,

    Ben

    Ben

    • Like 2
  12. On 13/10/2020 at 02:54, 33C said:

    Just a couple of my early attempts to try out my weathering techniques and a "what can you do with these two!". Lastly, a "Nellie" conversion done a few years back. Hope you like....20201013_023418.jpg.72af9deadd8e7a777af6372e9e4d7016.jpg

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    That Ogee tank looks great. What chassis is it on?

    (actually, all those bashes look really nice, but I was particularly taken by the Ogee tank).

    Well done,

    Ben

    • Like 1
  13. On 19/08/2020 at 12:33, taine said:

    Here's an attempt at a Pug-bash.  I'm a real beginner so have not worried too much about realism (big compromise being the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with oversize wheels etc.

     

    Does anyone have a recommendation for crew figures for a pug?  I have some from the Dapol work-men set but they all seem too tall. The old Hornby figures that come with the Caledonian pug fireman is OK but the seated driver doesn't fit at all!

     

    Well, that is a very impressive attempt. Brilliant stuff, especially if you are a beginner. I'm another vote for AC stadden figures. They have incredible detail. If you just want them to go far inside the cab, you could buy some cheap figures from china on e bay. They are also smaller than 4mm figures. The bright colours on them would need toning down/repainting though!!

     

    Well done,

    Ben

     

    • Thanks 1
  14. On 01/07/2020 at 21:59, AlfaZagato said:

    Look up one of the n20 motors.   Tiny and powerful.  Cheap, too.   I picked mine up for $7.

    The N20 motors are cheap and the 2000 rpm gives a nice slow running ability.

     

    However, the original request was for one where you don't have the change the worm size. I think (please correct me) that the N20 has a larger diameter rod (3mm I think), than the original one from Toby (about 1.5mm maybe?).

     

    Hope that helps, but I don't know of a smaller motor with the same size worm.

     

    Ben

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