Adam FW

20 hours ago, sem34090 said:

That is simply gorgeous and I'd be seriously tempted to buy one were it offered for sale, or to print one on my own photon were the file available to download or purchase.

Thanks. I’ve considered putting some of my other designs up on shapeways marketplace but I’m not as happy with this one as I am my other designs as it looks nice but is a pig to build

once I get this one built I might do a version 2 that requires far less hacking and slashing to fit together properly and I may well upload that if it’s good enough. 
 

 I’d also definitely have to make instructions for the chassis as that was surprisingly difficult to work on, I’ve never seen another model where the motor is primarily attached to the body not the chassis

4 hours ago, TangoOscarMike said:

 

I've used one of the Dapol figures in this way, as shown here. He's the one on the far left in this picture. With a bit more effort I could have had him leaning out a bit more.

 

Some of the other poses in this set have a bit of a lean to them, and might be suitable.

 

I love the model (the previous owner's work and yours). Freehand lettering of that standard is not commonplace.

Cheers, I’ll consider one of those Dapol figures.

Wish I’d bought more from the bloke as he had loads of brilliant kit and scratch built items, mostly LNER stuff though which isn’t really my thing though one of his motorised Stirling singles was tempting. I did pick up some ratio coaches and a Foden steam lorry which were built and painted to a similar standard.

52 minutes ago, AlfaZagato said:

 

 

Really neat, almost if Nielson had lasted to the 20s.

It's just a shame the poor driver can't see where he's going, the saddle tank obscures most of the spectacle plate so if I ever put a crew on the footplate one of them will have to be leaning out the side to look forwards which I don't think I've seen a model of.

51 minutes ago, DK123GWR said:

Thank you for the advice. I am currently leaning toward Rail Blue as by 1985 (roughly the target period of my layout) you would probably have to scrape around for the last remaining black 08s, if any were still in service (and I've never really like the black ones).

 

Yes, although I do not have the model to hand I believe that it does have the wasp stripes. Where would be the cheapest place to source decals for a class 08? And just to confirm, will it be OK to apply the primer without removing the current paint?

Shouldn't be any need to remove the old paint before priming but you probably will want to give it a clean to remove any dirt/oil.

If it already has decals/printing on it they may need rubbing back to stop it showing through to the new paint as I doubt you want to see dino safari ghosted onto your new paintwork

Getting hold of some decals may be difficult with most model shops shut or online only and no swap meets or train fairs going on. Your best bet to get some decals at the moment is likely ebay, personally I like HMRS pressfix transfers (they just need cutting out and pressing onto the model, no water sliding or solvents needed) and you can get a sheet with lots of logos, numbers and lines on for £6-10 but I've never used the BR ones so couldn't say how good or bad they are.

The cheapest repaint for it would be to go for BR black, in which case you can repaint it from supplies at your local poundshop or B&M bargains (or whatever is similar and open), just grab a can of automotive primer (tends to be grey, but watch out for a rouge can of silver mixed in with the primers, I've made that mistake before) and some matte black. Depending on the stock some stores have other colours, my local poundland has had yellow, orange, green, blue, red, silver and white in the past so you may be able branch out into more colourful liveries.

Remove the body from the chassis. If you have the model I'm thinking of, it already has wasp stripes so using masking tape cover them up and any other areas you want to remain original. Then apply several thin coats of primer (give it some time to dry between coats), later on once the primer has dried apply the top coat in several thin coats again. Let the paint dry then remove the masking tape, add decals later if you want.

If the model doesn't already have wasp stripes apply primer to the entire body, then yellow paint to the areas you want to stripe, once that's dried use masking tape to cover up any areas you want to stay yellow and then apply the black paint.

Tamiya and some other companies make thin masking tape for modeling which is perfect for wasp stripes. I used 2mm masking tape and enitrely poundland spray paints on my 3D printed pannier tank body.

If you want BR blue then you're going to want to go down the pot of airfix/humbrol paint route for cheapness and use a brush as I assume you don't have an airbrush or want to buy railmatch spray paints, alternatively you can also buy spray paint for around £5 a can on amazon for more colour choice but your unlikely to get a perfect match to BR blue as you'd be guessing the shade from the image on a computer screen.

3 hours ago, Corbs said:

 

Hello Ben, I believe it's done on a Photon printer which can get much better quality and fidelity than the materials available from Shapeways.

 

 

That's gorgeous! Great work.

Cheers Corbs

FYI for Ben my models are printed on an anycubic photon, which is a resin 3D printer, sort of the hobby equivalent of the machines that output shapeways smooth fine detail plastic. The Kitson in my images above are not sanded or filled, though I probably should have done so considering the gloss paint shows the build lines clearly in some light on the flat sides.

Shapeways fine detail plastic from experience is typically higher quality with fewer visible build lines than what my printer can normally output but considering how much I 3D print and how expensive the higher quality materials are from places like shapeways it was worth getting it

Below is an image of some of my printers output after cleaning but before painting or sanding, from left to right:

- a cubone keyring

- anycubic impossible cube test print, I have never been able to match the quality of this and would love to know the settings used as you can barely see or feel the build lines

- fantasy castle, there are some tiny details on it which don't show up very well without painting.

- the saddletank is a scrap part of my latest project on an electrotren chassis where I did a really shoddy job of cleaning the print, but it shouldn't be too hard for someone to guess what it's going to be with the giesl ejector.