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Markhalsall

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  1. 48” tracksetta is pretty much bang on, thank you
  2. That’s great info thank you very much indeed..
  3. That’s very kind of you to respond with a pic too.. looks great to me.. and I like to idea of of making things easier in operation.. the clunking sound puts me off solenoid but I may experiment with a small piece of closed cell foam under the solenoid to damper the sound. I’m also going to weigh up the cost between the two for formats which may be considerable.. that said a bullhead point at £30 may well warrant the extra expenditure.. I’ve already spend £600 on points alone… thank you very much
  4. I’ve always gone for solenoid due to the cost implications. One of my layouts had 40 points.. but this new layout is going to be about 20-25 points and may well be my last layout as my hands aren’t what they used to be.. I have used momentary switches in the past but thought I may go with using the gaugemaster accessory switches on the handset but in all honesty, I have been worried about messing about keying switches and running loco’s on one handset, and I may still opt for momentary switches on a control board.. it feels easier than messing about with the controller to find the right point to switch..
  5. Thank you Rob i may take the plunge and go cobalts… I just need to sell a kidney first lol.. thanks for the message mark
  6. Hi all. I have a quick question please. I’m using bullhead large radius points. Does anyone know what tracksetta radius guide I would need to match the curve on the diverging line please. ? Thank you in advance
  7. Thank you all very much for this Information. i will definitely be running a few shunters so it may be wise to liven the frog rails.I used to modify my peco electro frog which in all honesty was a bit of a faff…but with the majority of the rails being live on the bullhead turnout I’m hoping for a more tidy point without the need for modification. I’ve soldered literally 1000’s of droppers but only ever to a nice flat bottom rail so it will be good to steady my hand for the much smaller bullhead rail.. better lay off the gin the night before I’m soldering …. Thank you all for your input and help, very much appreciated
  8. Hi Harlequin. Thank you for your advice and for taking the time to answer me yes good shout on the frog wire I know what you mean about them being slightly wonky.. I’ll defo watch out for this. I did think about soldering on to the sides.. I know a lot of folk do.. it would be a lot easier on terms of concentrating on the track work without the two droppers soldered to the underside getting in the way. I always found it a bit of a faff poking droppers through, whilst attempting to join two pieces of track…. Plus with the minute rail joiners this could be even more tricky… you’ve made me have a good think about that as I may try a few solders to the rail sides.. appreciate the food for thought .. Mark
  9. Hi all, I’m new to this group and wanted to ask a couple of questions and advice please I’ve been a modeller for a few years and have completed several code 100 layouts in flexi. Im now starting an end to end medium size layout in Peco Code 75 Bullhead it came as quite a shock when the points and track arrived, just how fine everything is and in all honestly, just how beautiful it is also. I wondered, given it’s fine nature, if anyone had any tips on soldering such a small rail underside.? I usually ‘juice’ the frog, is it necessary with bullhead points or should I just use out of the box so to speak.. ? also, what should I look out for whilst laying track.. tips and advice would really be appreciated. Thank you in advance mark
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