I thought I'd share some of the next stages of the build if only to save folk going down the same rabbit-holes I have visited recently - at least accidentally. I should mention that I'm modelling in EM gauge so may be 'enjoying' wider clearances in places.
Earlier on I'd written that I'd matched a 1015/Roadrunner Compact+ combination against the drawing and the fit looked ok. In the cold light of a following dawn I realised that this test fit was for a different kit when I was choosing my next victim from the stash. I.e. not the class K. Oops.
The instructions say 'It may be possible to fit' the above gearbox/motor combo driving the middle axle. I'd started down the compensation route outlined in the instructions and etched parts which point towards compensating the front and middle axle and driving the rear. So, following this I'd already fitted hornblocks to the front and middle axles and fixed bearings to the rear as can be seen in the photos above. Waving a ruler over the model left me unconvinced that the gearbox/motor combo would fit on the rear axle or it would be marginal if it did. So I decided to build enough of the body so that I could test fit the various bits and pieces. So on to Plan A.
- I assembled the frame of the gearbox, i.e. everything except fitting the actual gear train.
- I then built the footplate to the point where I could fit the firebox.
- Next came the firebox.
This gave enough parts to test fit the motor and gearbox driving the rear axle. Photos below...
The above shows the motor/gearbox arranged on the rear axle. The firebox is 'centred' over the two inboard slots level with the rear of the motor mount. To get the motor into the firebox I needed the mount to 'shift' some 5mm further back. This couldn't happen as the rear part of the gearbox fouled the cab floor. I tried fitting the lower part of the gearbox 'upside down' on the motor mount but this didn't help. Here's a photo with the firebox in position. As can be seen the centre of the motor mount protrudes beyond the front of the firebox. Not good!
I considered a few options
- Modify the gearbox such that it didn't foul the cab floor. This didn't look promising as I think it would have left the gears proud of the gearbox and so they would foul the cab floor.
- Modify the gearbox less drastically, modify the cab floor and probably the rear of the firebox. Again I didn't fancy this as it felt over complicated.
- Check if driving the centre axle would work.
- Use a different motor and gearbox. I looked at a few options here mostly from the smaller scales (OO-9 and 2mm). Some reasonable options here which I think could be made to work although I had a feeling that I'd end up having to build a gearbox. Also most of the axles were 2mm so I'd have to get some convertors to 1/8" that I am using. No real show-stoppers though.
In the end I decided to try the centre axle approach first as being the easiest to try. Photos below...
The photo above shows the motor mount approximately aligned with the slots for the firebox. (it looks like the idler axle in the gearbox isn't quite home.) I have had to remove the portions of the dummy valve gear behind the support rod I'd fitted to get this to fit.
The photo below shows the gearbox on the centre axle, the motor centred on the motor mount and the firebox in place. The spindle of the motor is sticking through the hole for the safety valve. This all looks like it will fit.
One more (poor) photo showing the motor in the firebox. As you can see there's not much room to spare but it looks doable.
So I think I'll plug on down the driven centre axle route. I'm now wondering whether to replace the fixed rear axle bearing with hornblocks....
As you can probably see I've built some of the bodywork while ruminating over the drive arrangements, No problems in the most part but a couple of observations.
I annealled all the bits that needed a curve. This included all the small parts such as the splashers and the bunker doors. ... but I forgot to mark the positions of the bends in the cab roof (there are some etched guide marks on the fret).
There doesn't seem to be room to fit the rearmost wheel arch surrounds (part E61) as they foul the cab sides (E51).
I couldn't find the rear wheel arch covers (E39) on the fret.
Some of the half etched parts such as the cab sides (E51) need delicate handling (at least by me) as they're 0.2mm thick.
The overlays appear to be the same size as the underlying parts which leaves a gap where these parts meet. I think I'd spend some time removing some material from the underlying parts if doing it again although it's not obvious how easy this would be for the bunker.
Nothing too difficult to overcome. Here's a photo of it pieced together courtesy of blutack, Some fettling still required.
I need to find a photo showing how the tank was positioned on the boiler. Equal gaps at each end? Hard against the firebox? Hmm.