Roger Wood

As I've said before my ultimate aim is to apply transfers to an acrylic painted or varnished model, and then to be able to peel off the carrier film resulting in a 'factory finish'. I can do this with enamels but not with acrylics. I'm experimenting with adding either white spirit or meths when applying the transfers; so far not so good but still trying. I've come up with an interesting side effect, which I'll explain in a mo. To recap, initially I oversprayed my acrylic painted coaches with gloss Humbrol enamel varnish, applied the transfers, peeled off the carrier film and sealed with another coat of enamel varnish. All seemed well until I discovered that the enamel could easily peel off the acrylic. What I've found is that applying a quick wash of meths to the acrylic paint, allowing it to evaporate, then overspraying with enamel varnish results in strong adhesion of the enamel to the acrylic, so that's worth further consideration. Hope to have further results to report. Roger

Michael I'm afraid I disagree with your contention that enamel or acrylic makes no difference. In my experience transfers - and specifically here I'm referring to the actual numbers or letters, not the carrier film - adhere strongly to enamel but weakly to acrylic. A glossy base only makes the transfers appear to have adhered because there are fewer microscopic air bubbles trapped underneath the carrier film, some call this effect silvering. I suggest that use of Microset/Microsol only serves to improve this 'appearance'. I think that rather than trying to hide the carrier film our aim should be to remove it thus achieving a realistic appearance - there's no carrier film in real life. You can do this with easily with enamel, just allow the transfers time to fully dry then touch a sliver of masking tape to the carrier film and gently peel it off - try it. I cannot do this with acrylic (yet) because the numbers/letters don't adhere strongly enough, they lift off with the carrier film. I'm working on this and will report back in due course. Roger

Replica Railways supply these in normal or reverse form for applying either inside or outside. £2.70 a sheet last time I looked. HTH Roger

Thanks for the further responses. I want to stay with acrylics for my coaches if possible because I have a supply of the Halfords green paint (acrylic) and I have shown that it doesn't take overspraying with enamel. The problem is that waterslide transfers do not adhere strongly enough to the green paint, they just don't stick! I am going to try Microset as suggested by John. If that works I can then overspray with gloss acrylic. Does anyone know how to get a good gloss finish with acrylic varnish, the best I manage is more like satin?

Hi John Hope I'm doing this properly, this is all new to me! Thanks for your advice, I have a lot to learn regarding acrylics. Is the Glosscote you suggest acrylic? Do you apply it with an airbrush or is it in a spray can? Your use of Microset and Microsol sounds interesting, I will look into that. Thanks, Roger

Hello, this is my first post to this (in fact any) online forum so please bear with my expected errors/mistakes! The last time I did any serious (i.e. making kits etc. ) modelling was in the 1970s, so you can guess how old I am. I would be most appreciative of any advice on using waterslide transfers with acrylic paints. This is the specific problem I've encountered:- I have built two old Ian Kirk Maunsell coach kits and spray painted them with Halfords Rover Brooklands Green car paint, then applied suitable waterslide transfers, so far so good. Now waterslide transfers are easy to use but I dislike the rather obvious carrier film so I carefully peel this off once the transfers have fully dried, or rather that's what I used to do successfully in the old days with cellulose or enamel paints. It would appear though that the transfers do not adhere strongly to the Halfords paint which is acrylic and when I tried to remove the carrier film the numbers came away with the film. I've tried polishing the paint with T-cut to a smooth gloss finish but still the transfers don't adhere strongly. So I did an experiment just to prove (hopefully) that I'm not going senile, by applying a number transfer to a scrap of plasticard painted with enamel paint. Bingo! I was easily able to peel off the carrier film because the numbers had adhered strongly to the enamel paint. So then I risked over spraying the Halfords painted coaches with Humbrol enamel gloss varnish. This apparently being OK I applied transfers, waited a few days, and cautiously peeled off the carrier film - success! Another coat of Humbrol and I thought I'd cracked it. There's still a problem. The enamel varnish is incompatible with the acrylic underneath and will actually peel off quite freely with knocked/mishandled, taking the transfers with it. One of coaches still looks fine but the varnish lifted at an edge on the other coach and I was able to peel it all off, so back to square one. So the question is, do I have to live with carrier film showing on my acrylic painted coaches? I suspect someone will suggest the obvious solution - use enamel paints from the start, but this would mean buying an expensive airbrush to get the spray finish I prefer.