Trains4U

Hi, The process for converting the voyager is almost identical to the class 170 (They use much the same system for the lights) If I get one in, I'll try and do a seperate guide, but the principles are the same. The only difference is in getting the bodies off. There are more screws on the voyager and a little effort is required to spread the bodyshell sides to release the chassis.

I've already done a guide for the V1/V3 - I'll try and get that uploaded in the next few days, along with a few others that haven't made it across from the old forum yet.

RRP is ??119.95 Expect them to be selling for around ??105 - ??110

The Heljan "As Built" and West Coast Railways 33/0s have arrived in stock These are 33/0 D6585 in early BR Green and 33025 "Glen Falloch" 33029 "Glen Loy" in West Coast Railways Livery

Riddles' proposed design for a BR standard 3F was thrown out by the BRB as it was just TOO ugly!

Just a note about the Bachmann decoder. It is very good, however it needs adjusting to work proper;y in the 153. the Back EMF settings need to be adjusted or the model will run erratically at low speed. IIRC CVs 53 an 54 need changing.

Some from the last thread on the old forum.

mini 33...

Oh go on then... How about a proper observation car...

Please do be patient. Today is one of the busiest trading days of the year (And the last opportunity to send parcels by courier) It is very easy to get caught up in the rush and neglect to make return phone calls - I know, I've been there myself, and I can be pretty sure it wasn't intentional. Try again after Christmas and you'll probably be better served.

Trains4U have commissioned a run of 500 OO scale 150/1 DMUs in the original Provincial Livery. All 50 class 150/1s were delivered in this livery between 1985 and 1986. The original thread for this topic can be found Here on the old RMWeb forum. The Bachmann model carries modifications to the front end of the unit, most noticably, the removal of bodywork cowlings beneath the steps on the cab front. The chosen unit, 150135 is one of a small number that retained this livery after the modifications were made see evidence of 150135 at Doncaster in 1992. These models are available now for GBP 95.00 each + GBP 4.00 P&P per order. Delivery is due Thursday 11th March. NEWS 10/03/2010 They've Arrived! The class 150s will be delivered to us tomorrow - so cards will be charged, calls will be made and models shipped over the next couple of weeks, starting tomorrow! Sound models will be following in two to three weeks time. Photos of the production model will be up in the next day or two. Production NEWS 16/12/2009 Production Today is the ex-factory date given by Bachmann. So with luck, all 504 have been produced and will soon be on their way from China. Sound fitted I am pleased to say that we are able to offer a small number of these units with sound on board. Working in conjunction with Olivia's Trains these units will be available ready fitted with Olivia's Trains class 150 recording. These will be expected to retail for approximately GBP 190.00 - If you want one, let me know soon as numbers are very strictly limited. Livery Sample The following images show the pre production model. Please note that this is not the final version and the following modifications are being made; The bottom band of grey - painted in Regional Railways silver-grey on the livery sample, is being replaced with the correct Intercity Executive Light Grey (As on the lower band of Intercity liveried carriages) The white stripe indicating the parcels area is being made thicker so the bottom of the stripe is in line with the rain strips. A little more black paint is being added around the bottom of the cab front on the inside, so that no turquoise is shown. The turquoise (Provincial light blue) looks very bright out of the box, but looks much the same as the 142 and railmatch provincial light blue.

I can't do pictures straigt away, but there are two silver screws, high up inside each water tank (in the Bachmann model) in addition to the screw at each end of the chassis. these need emoving. the chassis should then drop straight out. This one had me stumped for a while first time around! I hope this helps

you know, some retailers will fit your choice of decoder free of charge - removing such worries. If you buy a loco and decoder from us, I'll fit the decoder, and promise to do a guide for it too! In the meantime, I'll see what I can do...

The colours of the wires are pretty much irrelevant, and don't trust that red and black match polarity (They don't in some models) I've seen class 25s with black, green, white and brown wiring. The quetions I need to ask are, does the model have lights? if not, do the wires run through the top of the glazing unit to a toothed metal block or not? Finally, does the ringfield motor have screws on the terminals or does it have folded over brush terminals? Based on the majority of 25s that I've done, I'm assuming the model is without lights and that the wires go up through the glazing to a toothed block. The principles of wiring are the same as for most older ringfield motors. Ensure the terminals are isolated, by removing the spade connectors. Solder the orange and grey wires to the terminals. Snip off the spade connectors and wire the red and black wires from the decoder to these. A simple conversion really. Just don't be alarmed if the colour if the wires are not as expected. Its even more ineresting when all the wires are black...

Hi Stephen, We don't sell O gauge (Apart from specially ordered Heljan and Bachmann) and I've never been asked to fit DCC to an O gauge engine. now if you want to send me your models, I'll have a go (for a fee of course) but unless I recieve the appropriate models from a customer I'll be unable to do a guide. (As with any guide for any scale), Cheers

Not much I'll add them to the list. The 37 is highly unlikely, but a Farish 04 may get done at some point. I need a customer model to do the job on before the guide can be done.

It might still be in Denmark. we ordered some more on Friday - delivered today.

Done!

If it wasn't such a monumental waste of money, I'd seriously consider respraying one into Large Logo Blue. And as a type 5, I'd probably number it Class 54 - Though it most likely would have been a 56, as the 56 as we know it wouldn't have been built.

If anyone has any particular requests for a DCC fitting guide, be it a hard wire job, or DCC ready job, list it here and I'll see what can be done. Hornby Class 153 - Done. Thanks

DCC Fitting Guides Trains4U offer a DCC fitting service for all of our customers, however, I am very keen to help people help themselves, therefore I have produced guides for a number of hard wire installations. These guides are intended to aid the modeller in disassembling their loco and fitting an appropriate decoder, hopefully highlighting any potential pitfalls and providing helpful advice as nesessary. These guides are intended for use as a visual aid only. Appropriate care must be taken when fitting DCC chips and necessary precautions taken regarding short circuits, insulation of wires and soldering, as such Trains4U or myself cannot be held responsible for any damage or injury caused as a result of following these guides. The methods of fitting decoders are my own, there are other guides where things are done differently and may even be a neater or easier solution. However, in these guides I have documented the process that I had in place at the time, and many of these were carried out as a first-time trial. The Decoders used in each guide are either the most appropriate available at the time, or the decoder specified by the customer. The most appropriate decoder for your model may vary depending on the range available at the time, your needs and your budget. I am gradually copying the existing guides from the old RMWeb, and I will be adding more in the future. If you have any specific requests, please let me know. The following guides are yet to be produced and will be done when occasion arises: Bachmann WD 2-8-0 Bachmann B1 Bachmann J39 Hornby Ringfield comparison and guidance notes I have not, as a rule, provided guides for DCC ready locos, but if anyone would like to see these (From a dismantling point of view) I'll be happy to add them by request, provided I have an appropriate model available. thanks

Fitting a TCS M1 decoder to a Graham Farish 170. This guide applies to pretty much any chinese manufactured split chassis Diesel or Electric which is not DCC ready or "DCC friendly" So, Classes 25/31/33/37(old model)/40/44/45/46/47(old model)/50/52/55/56/87/90/91/158/159/168/170 are covered. The chassis looks like this: There are variations between the different models, particularly in frame length and position of the screws. Remove the underframe detail, this is often held on by one or two screws (Shown) but on smaller locos, this will just pull off. Before seperating the chassis halves, check and note the position of the bogie mounts. These are a rectangular black plastic piece with two protrusions and a small hole at one end (Small circle) The bogie fits into an of centre peg,the hole indicates the correct position for the mount. The protrusions fit into one of four sets of recesses. It is essential that these are put back in the same positions as they affect bogie clearances with the bodywork and whether th driveshafts will fit properly in the motor or not. In this case, they fit into the outermost of the four recesses, with the hole facing inwards. (I had already undone the chassis at this point, when I remembered to take this pic!) Undo the screws holding the two chassis sides together - the 170 has two, many have a third in the battery box/fuel tank area. Carefully remove all components and place somewhere safe. (There are quite a few component parts) In order to isolate the motor, it is necessary to remve a chunk of metal from each half of the chassis. The part to be removed is indicated below. this is a well defined rectangle that is relatively simple and quick to remove. This can be quickly removed using a decent set of needle files. You can drill or mill it, but by the time youve plugged your kit in, put the chassis in a vice and selected an appropriate drill, the files would have finished the job. (Took me about 2 minutes each side) This is the chassis half with the area cut out Place the motor in each chassis half and make sure the brass contact of the motor is not making contact with the chassis half. Use a circuit checker to be sure. Reassemble the chassis ensuring everything goes back where it came from (A three handed job if ever there was one) A small channel must be cut in each half to accomodate the wires from the motor to the decoder, otherwise the bodyshell will not fit back on. The decoder wires should be trimmed to the minimum required prior to fitting. Ensure you know where the decoder is going in relation to the body. Some locos may require modifiction to the ribs inside the roof to allow space for the wiring. Ensure the decoder is not positined where it will foul one of these ribs. Class 158/159 will require more dramatic modification as the bodyshell is in two parts. The roof must be removed and all decoder wiring passed through a hole drilled above the motor position - then a decoder sized hole cut in the clear ceiling of the main bodyshell so that the decoder will fit with the roof on - all wires are channelled between body and roof as the roof is refitted (A bit of a nightmare) My preferred method of connecting the red and black ower wires is to secure them using one of the chassis screws and retainers to hold the wires against the chassis sides. I strip about 10-12mm of insulation off each wire and tin it. I then wrap one wire around the screw and the other around the retainer, then fit them back in place, ensuring that the wires contact the chassis. Some chassis will require a channel to be filed to allow the wires to fit flush. this is not the case with the 170 ehre there are cast recesses. Once the decoder is fitted, test it on the programming track, give it an address and check on the main line. Position the decoder (Use double sided tape if required - but not a sticky pad as it will raise the decoder too high) put the body back on, test once more, and its all done.