A. Bastow

14 minutes ago, Nig H said:

Hi Adam,

 

I have the Jenkinson book, and the R W Rush one only. The L & Y Society has some coach drawings listed including D. 94 with a note 'from Rush'. If so it won't be dimensioned, I think. The L & Y drawings can be viewed and photographed at Manchester Central Library when it re-opens. Sam Kennion is a L & Y soc member so I'll ask him if he can help with more information.

 

I think the Jenkinson drawing should do for a coach side as long as you make measured bits fit in with known dimensions. When I drew the artwork for my GSWR dining car I used a spreadsheet to help balance the gaps between the vertical lines of the paneling and associated beading. This helped ensure the sum of the total equalled the known length of the coach. I use a spreadsheet to convert feet and inches to millimetres also. This can be used as an audit trail of all the dimensions in a drawing, including source of dimension and whether quoted in the published drawing or measured from it.

 

Nigel Hunt

Hi Nigel,

I'm a member of the LYRS myself, though last time I asked for drawings etc, the B. C. Lane Drawings came back, which are the ones in the Jenkinson book. I'll have to have a trip out to Manchester when things start opening up again. I do have it on good authority though that the LYRS is working on a book of carriages and their drawings. 

I did do some bogie designs for 3d printing as an exercise in whether it could be done, but my pal who does the 3d printing hasn't got round to it yet - this was to see if functional parts were possible. 

I work in a similar way, converting the dimensions on a spreadsheet. Although the last one I worked from I marked up the drawing in red with the 2mm scale dimensions - this was for 3d printing.

I think 3d printing has its merits for enclosed structures, but as you say for cab side and roof, etched parts will give the correct scale thickness needed. Likely in the future I will have a go at doing a proper etch for the class 28. My list of things to have a go at gets longer and longer. 

I should stop being a hobby butterfly with many unfinished tasks and I should concentrate on getting my trackwork finished and wired up. Like I've seen in Geordie Exile's tagline It's not "a bunch of unfinished projects", it's "slow-burn multi-tasking".

Adam

Thanks for the encouragement folks. 

For my first etch, I kind of wanted to group together all of the bits that I might want in the future as a test for the artwork, then if I wanted more in the future I can always separate the components out and have an exclusive etch made. 

@Sithlord75 I was worried about wasting money, hence the idea for a paper mockup - I can see how it goes together and make adjustments based on how well it went. That mock-up made me realise that I needed to change the hole diameter for the wheels and geartrain. I had drawn them twice as big, using the circle from radius as opposed to by diameter. 

@Caley Jim I did intend to use PPD for my first etch, minimum size as I read it is 300mm x 150mm, but I'm sure I have enough for an A4 at least I just need to sit down and do the drawings. So many other things to work on at the same time. Like getting the turnouts working that I have made. 
 

@Geordie Exile Including ephemera such as fences, windows and the like wasn't something I had thought of. Consider the idea stolen! 

@Nig H You don't happen to have any good drawings or diagrams of the D94 and D87 do you? I have the Jenkinson book with them in but the diagrams don't include height on the drawing, plenty of lengths to measure from but that introduces inaccuracies. I'd rather work it out with basic maths from the dimensions given rather than having to measure it with calipers. 

I guess I'll have to get on to my computer tonight and share the progress on this as it develops. 

Adam

Maybe a bit of a loaded question... but to those who use DCC which systems do you use, which have you used and what would you recommend? 

I am looking at getting a starter set to get going on DCC rather than using conventional DC control. I have been looking at the NCE power cab, but the Lenz and Prodigy Advance systems also look interesting. I guess I'm after some real world advice from people who have used them as opposed to someone who is trying to sell it to me. 

Cheers,

Adam

Hi all,

First time sharing something I’m working on. 
 

With help from (and thanks to) Rich Brummitt I’ve been trying to get my head around drawing up some artwork for etching. I was apprehensive about sending things off for etching and then being wrong when they come back so I obtained some .35mm thick card from work and printed it as a mock up. The body is a 3d printed L&Y class 28. 

This stage of progress was a week or two ago. I need to find some other things to add to the artwork to make it worthwhile in having an A4 or even an A3 sized etch made up. I am thinking of maybe some coaches or wagons; all L&Y oriented I think. 

4 hours ago, Nig H said:

Hello Nick,

 

I'd much prefer it if someone else would do an etch! Full kits take a long time to develop and I'd rather spend my time on other projects. I did look  at the Wild Swan book on the Crabs, and it struck me that the footplate might be difficult to design because the valance is so shallow. I suppose some sort of cradle below the valance  to retain its shape until the footplate was attached might work - who knows?

 

Nigel Hunt

When I get my head around how to draw etches and have them successfully made then maybe I'll have a look at trying to do another simpler loco etch first and then I might attempt a Crab. Don't hold your breath though, it'll be years before it appears, if at all!

1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said:

I'd much prefer it if Nigel Hunt could be persuaded to do a proper 2mm kit for a crab. So far my persuasive powers have failed. Maybe I should lobby the Association products officer to commission a kit from him...

I have yet to put my Radial Tank together and I already have my eye on the Fowler Tank that he does, as well as the L&Y 0-8-0. A Crab would go down very well! 
 

The list of things to do grows ever longer!

On 09/03/2021 at 18:39, Nick Mitchell said:

 

There's a nice photo of Edwards Sissling's converted Farish Crab on the back cover of the December 2009 2mm Magazine. It has the original valve gear with finescale wheels - could they be Ballantine wheels?

Thanks for pointing me to that image Nick. I have no idea what Ballantine wheels are, I would assume a manufacturer that no longer exists? 

Thanks for the pointer to BH Enterprises as well Andy, I didn't realise they did just separate tender kits. 

I might have to think about this one some more before committing to it! I should really finish the other projects that I have before moving on. 

 

Hi Folks, 

I have been thinking about getting one of the Grafar LMS Crabs with the aim of converting it to finescale. 

I have completed a modern tooling Grafar Jinty conversion with the conversion bearings, wheels etc provided by the association. 

My question is how do I go about converting one of the older models? I know I can get the wheel flanges turned down but I'm more looking at a proper conversion with correct scale wheels. 

Has anyone managed to do a Crab before?

Can I still use the valve gear and connecting rods from the N gauge model? 

Would it be a full chassis replacement? 

Many thanks in advance for any help you guys can give. 

4 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

Hello @Zaonite I am but the student trying to catch the pebble from the master's hand when it comes to 2mm but hopefully I can help before one of the titans of industry step in.

 

The association offers a wheel-turning service, where you can send your RTR locomotive wheels to a gent in the organisation who will turn them down to the 2mmFS profile for you for a nominal fee. It's not always possible. I've built an rebuilt some chassis for commercial bodies (the Jinty and 57xx) and find it great fun, despite the challenges inherent in building your own mechanisms.  Generally if you're going down that route it means buying the chassis,  the wheels, some accessories such as bearings and muffs, and a motor - although I'm still not happy with my work in this area, it's really not all that difficult and is very rewarding.

 

The association sell all the relevant parts, so it's often worthwhile sourcing the body from Peters Spares or as a 'spares or repair' on ebay, rather than hacking up a perfectly good model.

1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

Even that answer is an over-simplification.  The back-to-back of N gauge is between 1mm and 1.25mm less than 2mm finescale.  Doesn't sound much, but that has to come out of the chassis width somewhere.  Which means finding 1mm, or more, from between the frames.  Typically in 2mm finescale, they're about 6.5mm apart.  Reducing that by 1mm is quite a bit.  

And you've got to find a source of track bits/gauges to hit your particular track standard, and then wonder why your track looks nothing like British track (US flat-bottom and spikes doesn't look like British bullhead chaired track). 

 

Or, you can just use the 2mm standard which adds up to work.

 

 

- Nigel

 

 

 

10 minutes ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

Not mentioned so far is that there are conversion parts for some of the Bachmann steam locos such as the latest Jinty and 64XX so that you can use the Association wheels in them, basically by replacing the bearings. It is close to drop-in. http://2mm.org.uk/products/instruction_sheets/pdf3-219.pdf are illustrated instructions for the Castle but the 0-6-0s are even easier. see also http://2mm.org.uk/articles/64xx chassis conversion kit/index.html

 

The etched chassis are largely for older style Farish (and other) locos. BR LInes (brlines.co.uk)  will sell you some of the relevant bodies.

 

Chris

 

 

Many thanks to the three of you! 
 

More information to help tip the scales! I am seriously considering joining the 2mm association. I will have a play with the intro kit and see how I get on. I am sure my modelling skills are up to scratch.

My first order will likely be an easitrac turnout and the bits needed to make a soldered one. See which one I prefer, although from what I have read the consensus seems to be easitrac for plain track and soldered for point work. 
 

Thanks again folks!

Hi Folks,

Ordered myself a taster wagon and section of easitrac from the 2mm Association’s website the other day. It all started with me considering coming back to railway modelling after a 7 year hiatus, due to a friend who I do tabletop wargaming with switching from OO to N. I was planning to do N gauge again, and doing 1930s LMS again, but with a bit more accuracy to a particular area. I wanted to do something that represented my local area a bit more so I started looking for kits in N gauge for things from the L&YR.  I emailed Nigel Hunt to ask if he had an etch available of an L&YR Aspinall 2-4-2T as well as asking if the 2mm society wheels would run ok on N gauge track (with suitable alterations). The short answer is no, but the long answer is maybe, providing you adopted say NMRA standards for N, which peco track is nowhere near.

I’ve seen that the 2mm society does drop in wheel replacements for diesels but what do you do with steam locomotives? I know you can get the wheels reprofiled; is it then just a case of altering the back to back? 
 

I saw that there are a variety of chassis etches for grafar locos... which I assume means new motor etc too? Would it not be better to buy the body shell from an N loco in that case then? 
 

Thanks for your help folks. Want to make sure it all lines up in my head first before joining the 2mm association.