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Trev218

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Posts posted by Trev218

  1. Next was various scatter material and a bit of static grass - very satisfying seeing everything starts coming together! 

     

    I had some ancient wire trees that I added some clumps to and added a few bushes etc stuck down with pva

     

    Lastly I put the catenary gantries in place - at this point I've decided against trying to add the wires...maybe later on. I wired up the signal to a 3 way switch - just for effect - and I reckon for the moment it's finished...time for some wagon pics! 

     

     

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    • Like 6
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  2. Once all that was dry and smoothed down a bit, I added some cork underlay...and when dry started on the track and ballasting.

     

    The track was then coloured by a light spray of sleeper grime and assorted weathering powders brushed on - initially I was concerned I'd overdone it a bit but in the end it doesn't look too bad hopefully. 

     

    I wanted to experiment with a colour light signal and other bits and pieces so I ordered some of the peco accessories - lineside cabinets, concrete trunking etc...a signal and some OHLE kits from N Brass Locos...and a roll of backscene

     

     

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    • Like 6
  3. In my wagon kit building topic there's a few pics of the finished articles...in the most uninteresting of compositions, like on a tray or a tiny length of track nailed to a bit of wood! 

     

    I haven't got a layout ready for them yet so I set about making up a small scenic section of track that might do the wagons more justice in the photos. 

     

    Its nothing sophisticated, a section of double track...and as for length, its 2 pieces of Peco code 55 flexible track set on whatever bits of plywood I had in the garage 🙂

     

    As you can see in the pics it's the ply track base, cardboard strip formers over scrunched up paper all then covered with some of the woodland scenics cement stuff... 

     

     

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    • Like 7
  4. 5 hours ago, Steven B said:

    Lovely wagons!

     

    I'll be interested to read how you get on with the Hunt Couplings fitted to bogie mounted NEM Pockets. I've found them less useful when used on wagons or coaches without close coupling mechanisms. Using them on the later Farish Mk2F wasn't as successful as on the Mk2a for example. Couplings fixed to the bogies have limited movement within the pockets and you end up making a fixed wheelbased 4-axle wagon.

     

    Dapol's dummy buck-eye couplings work well in this situation - they've got some room for the heads to move with respect to each other in addition to any provided by the NEM pocket. Coming in two different lengths means it's easy to adjust the distance between vehicles depending on the curves the vehicles will run through.

     

    Steven B.

    I was actually wondering if I'd fall foul of something like that tbh - the Dapol buckeyes sound a good alternative if I get stuck - thanks for that 🙂 

  5. 6 hours ago, Robert Shrives said:

    Hi When storing the auto ballasters esp in foam trays wrap each in acid free tissue paper and you should be ok - guess how I know. I have 10 kit auto ballasters and had to repair a few.  A great kit and yours is a good build.  I ended up using the fixed knuckle coupler from the Dapol bits bags and with a med and short on opposite end got them to run really well on the Warley club Broadwater and Templedean layouts, both have 12" rad curves.

    Given how many workings are top and tailed I must try with a dummy loco on the back!

     

    A quick question what colour did you use on the insides?      

    Thanks for that, a useful tip! 🙂 

     

    Couldn't agree more - it's a great kit and the build is nothing like as traumatic as it first appears when you open the box - will definitely be getting another set of 5.

     

    For couplings I'm going to try the Hunt magnetic couplings, I've not got anything to run them on yet though, layouts are very much work in progress. Certainly I can see the bogies aren't going to be very forgiving when it comes to curve radius! 

     

    The colour inside is roughly halfy halfy mix of RailMatch railfreight grey and sleeper grime acrylic paint - seems not toooo far adrift from colours in photos. I've made up wagon loads for all my previous builds in this thread so haven't had to worry about the interior colour too much -  I may yet do the same for these

     

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. 13 hours ago, Revolution Ben said:

     

    Hi Trev,

     

    Great job! Looking really good.

     

    Designing etches is always a tricky balance between making them fine enough to be realistic, robust enough to be practical and configured so they can be folded and fitted as easily as possible.  It looks like you've got yours fitted perfectly!

     

    cheers

     

    Ben A.

    Thanks very much for that, it's appreciated.

     

    Indeed it must be tricky...at first glance, the fret of all the etches was terrifying to behold!

     

    As it turned out, taking time with them and also referring to a few images of prototype wagons downloaded from Flickr (thanks guys for putting them up those that do!) made it really quite satisfying how they went together. 

     

    The thing I had the most grief with was the chute extension flaps on the middle 3 wagons in the rake...I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they don't end up spoiling the finished rake. At least I know the pitfalls for next time, I'll just have to buy another kit! 🙂

    • Like 3
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  7. These are proving fun!

    I assembled all the hopper chutes and painted and 'stickered' them before adding the extenders and fixing them to the bodies - it was quite apparent they'd be pretty much impossible to paint etc otherwise. 

    The support etches for each end had quite substantial gaps around the edges which certainly aren't there in prototype pics, so a lot of fiddly  filling was needed.

    Once rubbed down as best I could and then hidden after a couple of coats of the railtrack buff paint they don't look too bad

    I'll fit the hoppers to the bodies next and then it's time to tackle the remaining (challenging looking) etches!IMG_20220630_083012_resized_20220630_114600869.jpg.aa34da6adae4da1bd1ffc439ad876215.jpg 

    • Like 1
  8. Finally had the enthusiasm to re-do the ARC logos on the wagons and then made up the loads for them - there might be quicker ways but this seems to work for me...and I used the Attwood Aggregates extra fine Mendip stone for a bit of authenticity 🙂

     

    Can't wait to see them lined up behind the Revolution 59/1 I've ordered @Revolution Ben!

     

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    • Like 11
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  9. 10 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

    Hi

     

    Never had a problem with Vallejo varnish over enamels, how long did you leave the enamel before using the varnish? I tend to wait a week or more.


    Couple of examples both painted with either Humbrol or Phoenix Precision enamels and sealed with the Vallejo acrylic varnish.

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    Cheers

     

    Paul

    Interesting point actually - it was probably only 24 hours between enamel and the varnish - I'll exercise more patience in future for that one! 

  10. 3 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

    Hi

     

    I use Vallejo Acrylic varnish spray through the airbrush after I couldn’t get Testors Dullcoat to looked back since. It’s a real pain when you get that far for it all to go wrong.

     

    Cheers

     

    Paul

    Yeah I use that too on acrylics - much prefer them really - I was limited by that colour only being available in enamel and when I've gone to use the acrylic varnish on enamel it sort of beads up on the surface when spraying. 

     

    Oh well its all part of progressing along the learning curve I guess 🙂

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