Thebodger

Following your advice I have started to look at mounting motors, the neatest solution seems to me to be to mount it this way, is there a good reason that I shouldn't do this? I am aware that this obstructs the location of one of the plunger pick ups however I could drill new holes and mount them either here Or here The motor can then be anchored in place with this strip of scrap brass i have cut down for the purpose. I intend to add slots to this bar to prevent the motor from moving sideways. The advantage of mounting this way seems to be that all the motor gears can be accessed from below allowing easy lubrication and the boiler will not need to be adjusted to allow it to fit. Also worked on the cab a little finally completing magazine 1!

I did think that could be the case!

So do I understand you correctly that you mean to turn the chassis upside down and work the bolt through from underneath, then fill those holes with Arldite? That was essentially the plan I had concocted but I though I needed to add these parts for some of the motion parts to seat into hence I was doing these now. I also was thinking to add the break gear first before tackling the motion? Or am I better to leave this until later?

Good and bad today, a reasonable looking boiler to the Good but a little bit stuck to the bad. I have started trying to fit the cylinders to the chassis as shown in the image however try as I might I cannot get either of the bolts that should fill these holes to engage! Therefore I am wondering does this part need to be removable or can I simply get out the soldering iron? If not does anyone have tips for starting these m2 bolts?

Apart from more longwinded but visually unimpressive work on the chassis my attention turned to the boiler. Step one was to replace the boiler band where the dome was originally to sit, this was done with modellers putty that was filed smooth when dry, its now smooth to the touch though usually unappealing however I think the simple cure to this will be paint! After doing a bit of research I found this picture of flying scotsman after restoration. For me the best way to simulate the rivet heads shown here was using the brass wire provided by hatchette as any replica rivets would seem rather clunky in comparison to the above therefore the long winded process has begun, which unfortunately means back to the glue! Finally as I hadn't played with my soldering iron enough I began construction of the rear bogey.

More progress today, a footplate and a tender chassis making it look like a lot has been done and hiding the myriad of small parts that I'm in the process of adding! The bad new I have run into is that all sources I can think of are sold out of 0.5mm false rivets for my boiler top which unless someone can suggest source I have not tried I will be forced to use the dreaded wire technique which so many build logs have managed to avoid! Having printed out plans for the tender I have decided to scratch build the body of the tender from brass which is now en route to me, I have a good variety of tools at my disposal but little experience... what would those who have scratch built with brass before recommend for cutting out my parts? Thanks again for all your help and advice

If I could title a post then: 'whats that smell?' Would work well just here! Springs going well apart from a small incident with my desk and an overheated spring.... I'm not sure if now is the time to test fit my motor but the original edition 104 seems a little late.... so I was thinking now would be a good time in case my chassis needs tweeking. I bought a slater 1:30 motor which I was advised would be just the ticket for this loco the only point of confusion i have is how do I mount it?

The steps there folded in from the bottom so I had to solder the inside as they were not a separate part, I made good use of that solder however as i was able to attach the additional step detail using them! Regards the tender exactly as doilum said I don't want to fork out for a complete new tender when with a little creativity I hope i can make a reasonably accurate replica! particularly when, visually at least, the chassis and running gear are virtually identical!

Morning all Last night saw more progress with the rear chassis assembled an added to the loco. 450 degrees seems to do the trick, in my inexperienced view the soldering looks ok now! As my attention begins to swing toward the start of the tender I think that rather than scratch building from the chassis up I will attempt to kit bash the kit tender into a GNR coal rail tender. Plans from the Internet seem to indicate that the outside dimensions are within a wisker so I think I can live with that. As ever tips and advice are appreciated!

So another session tonight saw there first test for my chassis, wheels fitted and tested running up and down my test piece of track, all promising so far, very free with no wobble in the wheels, which came as a pleasant surprise after the horror stories of the hatchette wheels! The I ran into one issue however in that the nut on one of the crank pins could not be persuaded to fit despite spending longer on that one than the others combined, is there a recommend manufacturer for a replacement? Regards soldering an increase in temperature to 450 degrees helped no end and free flowing joints were easy to form however this has caused problems with rapid build up of detritus on the iron tip, this will reinforce the necessity of regular retinning and cleaning of the bit! No more quick dips in the flux for me! Final orders going in this evening to laurie Griffin for the Nicole silver Slide bars, crossheads and drop links that im told are essential if planning to run regularly! Along with the Banjo dome and double chimney befitting 60107 in 1961 my chosed date!

Day 2 showing progress the chassis cleaned up and soldered together, the axles turn very freely in the test box which is a good sign! Struggling to keep the solder to a minimum though

I am using LA CO regular soldering flux, 145 degree solder and I have a 60w variable temperature soldering iron which at the moment is set to 340 degrees C. My soldering is not the best therefore I tend to a lot where it will not be seen, the biggest problem I seem to get is that solder will not run freely on large parts, is there a trick to this? The axles were solved using some 1200p wet and dry to clean up the axle leaving them running freely.

So here it begins, my first attempt at an O gauge locomotive, after purchasing a complete hatchette Flying Scotsman and upgrading a few parts construction started today. My thanks to Doilum for all his assistance with research and parts recommendations. I started with the front bogey as this was an easy sub assembly, all seems to have gone well however there is some friction in the axles which prevents them from freely turning. Is it sensible to file the bushes down to free this off or is there a better technique?

Yes it is! Very keen to build a 7mm J50

Looking for an (ideally) unstarted connoisseur models J50 kit, happy to pay a fair price!

While browsing youtube I encountered this video showing DCC sound synchronized with smoke effects on the cylinder cocks and pressure relief valves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ssA5J6EC2s&t=451s Has anyone created or purchaced a system like this that could point me in the right direction to produce a similar setup on my O gauge A3? Many thanks Bodger

I have made a start with creating alex jackson couplings for my O gauge layout which work well when manually adjusted but I cannot find a suitable electromagnet, can anyone make a recommendation?

Here it is looks ok to me in my limited experience!

Ah would a crailcrest cr109 be right?

I have just unpacked the kit and found it is complete with a sulzer gearbox, is this a suitably powerful motor for this locomotive?

I thought that might be the case, where would I go about sourcing new cylinders and piston? My search has thus far borne no fruit.

Yesterday I slipped and accidentally bought a complete set of Hatchette Flying Scotsman magazines. I have some experience soldering wagons together so the chassis shouldn't be too much trouble, however I intend to motorize my Scotsman, can anybody advise me on which parts may need to be replaced to achieve this? Furthermore has anyone had experience mounting pickups on this model? I will use the DJH motor and gearbox unless anyone has had a better experience with another set up. Finally I intend to paint this model in BR lined green where would be best to source the necessary transfers for emblems and lining. Along with replacement name and number plates as if this is practical I would like to build mine as royal lancer. Many thanks as ever Bodger

Very helpful thank you all, the contact spray did the job for now but the latching relays, does anyone have a recommended brand or know of a guide to fitting them? Many Thanks Bodger

Well this is disappointing, i hoped unreliable meant weeks or months before failing not minutes can anyone recommend an alternative system that wont break the bank?

I've loved railway modelling for some time but always fell at the first hurdle of scenic modelling when applied ballast ruined my points and the railway ceased to function... However the discovery, known already I'm sure of everyone on the forum that seep point motors with switches solved my electrical problems was a revelation! Have now motorised all five of my points carefully testing as I went along, all correct according to the multimeter however after 10 minutes testing one of my motors has developed an intermittent fault with the polarity switch. Extensive testing with the multimeter shows that both wires entering the motor are ok suggesting the problem is in the motor, I have removed the motor from the board where all appeared fine as did it after reinstalling for 10 or so cycles after which the intermittent fault returned. Can anyone suggest why this may be and suggest a solution to my problem. Or are seep motors simply that unreliable? Many thanks Bodger