BelsteadLane

Hi Jerry, you’ve done me a couple of those too! I’ll save them for future locos

A small job I undertook inbetween tasks on the short set was replacing the battery boxes on 90047 and 90048. These had the RFD model used as donors, and had the wrong battery boxes on. a photo showing 90048 pre battery box replacement - the best I could find sadly! Note how small it is compared to the rest of the ‘boxes’ on the underframe. And here’s both with the new battery boxes. much better! A very simple job that didn’t take long at all. These were kindly provided by @Squirrel Rail who cast them for me. Old ones pull out and new ones can either slot in place or glue underneath. Simply painting them black then weathering to blend them with the rest of the underframe (I did this prior to fitting them to the model) so very much worth doing and makes them more prototypical and accurate. 90048 is now a fully prototypical model for the year it’s set, whereas 047 technically needs a roof aerial replacement. However, I plan to rework It to ‘backdate’ it slightly so the ‘button’ aerial will stay on.

This week, most of my time has been spent working on the DRS short set coaches. They’re pretty much all finished now and just need weathering. I finished off the last interior painting and then added passengers. The next task was add lighting to all coaches. To do this, I robbed some train tech coach lighting strips from the pretendolino coaches as the train tech strips aren’t quite long enough for the mk3s. Plus, lll need to add lighting to the rest of the pretendolino coaches (six came with lighting) so it makes sense for them all to be the same set up. The train tech system isn’t cheap either - £20 a strip! I do like them though. They couldn’t be more user friendly and easier to install. No flickering like a lot of other systems or methods and it’s only a matter of replacing the battery every so often (we’re talking once every couple of years but it all depends on usage) so very little upkeep. No soldering required or messing around with wheel pick ups. They turn on via a sensor when movement is detected, and will stay on until the coach comes to a standstill and doesn’t move for a few minutes. Only downside is the cost which will be expensive if doing it to a whole rake of coaches! After adding new batteries in the strips, they were secured to the inside of the coach with double sided tape and here’s the results. and in pitch black. Here you can see the added effect of painting the interiors! with this complete, the last thing to do was renumber one of the TSOs. Hornby, for whatever reason, decided to produce the BSO with two running numbers and the TSO with just one - why...? I had a bit of a nightmare with this but all’s well that ends well. The coach became 6117 in the end. With the coaches all done and dusted, only thing left to do now is weathering. Gangway connections and pipework may get added in the future once I have a layout with more realistic/sweeping bends. The short set had a run this afternoon for a partial celebration!

If you do a tatty ex virgin, I may have to get some Oxford virgin Mk3s to get them tatted up too If you’re ever concerned about the manufactures making/announcing liveries you paint, at least you have the Anglia ones to fall back on. They will never touch those!

Do as many as you like! I want 90012 done eventually. I’ve contacted Illuminated Models to see if they can design a replacement lighting board. If/when I get it and try it out, I’ll let you know and send it your way. Also want 90006 in Ex-One as well. Those lighting boards will be vital! Will always come in handy for those who want to accurately model LSL’s 90001 and 002

what a stunning line up that is. Need to get an Anglian 90 amongst them! Maybe that’s where mine will slide in in the future? Super work as usual Jerry

Lots going on at the moment and this week, I done a bit of everything! most of it being work too rolling stock. all the DRS mk2 interiors have now been painted. The one below just needs varnishing and passengers until it’s fully complete. The BSO interior had a bit more doing to it. Thanks to the ‘Anglia Gen’ group on Facebook, I was provided information about the arrangements and detail of the DRS BSOs from a few people, so I set to work to improve the Hornby version. I had already painted the seating areas annoyingly so a few places needed rectifying but not a lot. First, I cut out a bay of seating which in turn, removed part of the floor. This area is the wheelchair area on the real coaches. A piece of plasticard was cut to form the new part of the floor and filla was added to make it nice and smooth - proved useful practise as I’m inexperienced with filla work. I added a new wall with a thin piece of plasticard and then the whole area was primed - was notified the walls on the real ones were grey so it made sense to prime everything. Walls to make up the guard’s office was also made up using plasticard and I made a luggage cage. I’m not too pleased with the cage and may change it for a 3D printed offering or something better. It was very awkward to make. But I will wait to see what it’s like when fully lit up in the dark. Another item of rolling stock was one of my pretendolino coaches where I modified the roofs to correct them. If only Hornby done a correct Mk3a tooling...! The square HST style vents were removed by very gently shaving them off. I used very thin and small strips of plasticard to make new roof ribs. A couple of ribs needed shaving off too to allow the new Roevac ventilators to fit correctly on the sides. A very nerve racking job but I’m quite pleased with how they came out. I need to do the same to the other 8 now! Currently waiting for some transfers for these and need to see if I can get the correct AGA style coach letter badges made. I’ve sent away the interior to who 3D prints some bits for me to see if I can get a more accurate one made. Hopefully then, it can be a fully prototypical coach both inside and out! All the interiors are the FO First Class 2+1 seating arrangement but the TSOs need a 2+2 arrangement. I’ll be needing a fair amount of these over time! That’s what’s taken up most of my time but in the spare hours I had I worked on a couple of other bits. I made a dummy tension pulley mast from an old Peco mast and used some brass rod, metal fasteners and 0.45mm wire to make up the main mechanism. The balance weights are 3D printed. I still need to add the tensioning bar that goes behind the mast to stop it from being pulled over due to tension but that’ll be done in due course. Very pleased with the turnout as a couple of years ago, I tried making one and failed miserably! and finally, I made a start on the scratchbuilt bridge, making the framework/bones of the build. Used mount board to make up the main frame then cladded with plasticard. Ready to add the brick plasticard now. The bar going through the middle is what will be used to carry the ohle wires through the bridge - I had to experiment and think about what would work as it needs to be strong enough to deal with the wire tension and I need to get it right in one go, ideally! It’s a scrap piece of rail which will slide through into place when the time comes - still need to add the registration arms yet. ive come to the conclusion that I’ll need to build the ohle leading up to the bridge first so I can then get the bridge in its final position and make sure the wires will go under the bridge without any trouble. I think the whole ohle system will need to be installed snd fully working before the bridge gets anymore work done to it. I’m starting to get withdrawal symptoms from YouTube, having not made a video for over a month now so once the DRS mk2 set is finished, I’ll start prioritising the layout and make some videos again. I’ve got my ideas on what I want to do so hopefully it won’t be too long!

Been rectifying a problem that most of my Bachmann 66s had where the leading bogie would end up derailing after a few laps on one of the mainlines. This was because the centre axles are fractionally lower than the others meaning the bogie would eventually ride on the centre wheels only and eventually derail. If you’re track isn’t perfectly level, this will only make it worse! After browsing the web for a cure, I finally found one and put it too the test and I’m happy to say it worked for me. Filing away lightly at the gaps where the axles slot into, will cause or allow some upwards movement on the rear axle making it level with the other axles. No more derailments for me! Obviously, this isn’t the only reason why you could get a derailment so double check your track, back to backs and other locos/stock beforehand. All of this for me was fine so it could only be the locos at fault. I fixed all the troublesome sheds and took photos while sorting out 66711. So if you’re having the same issues I had, you can (hopefully) follow what I did and sort out your own sheds. These photos show the problem - the front wheels on the leading bogie had risen up and over the rails. In worse cases, the rear wheels would have derailed too. Unscrew the four screws underneath and take the bodyshell off, removing the connections for the top headlight to make life a bit easier. The screw above is what holds the bogies and mechanism to the chassis. Unscrew this and pull on any slack from the pick up wires as this will allow more movement with the bogies. a photo showing the bogie removed. Work with care to avoid disturbing the pick up wires but they simply solder back on if you accidentally disconnect them. you’ll need to remove the bogie moulding from the gear mechanism housing. The bogie clips on to this. if you’ve never taken it off before, you’ll need to gently push the plastic clip away to remove it. The clip is located at the back of the bogie which is shown in the next picture. take a small flathead screw driver and gently prise the plastic clip away. It’s very fragile though and doesn’t take much to break so be careful. Once you’ve opened it up enough, it’ll pop out and come away easily. a photo with the bogie moulding removed. With the bogie moulding removed, you get access to the wheels, axles and cogs. The axles are simply pushed and clipped in. So they only need pulling out to remove them. take a small rounded file and file away at the gaps where the axles slot into. It doesn’t need much, just a slight shave so there’s a little upwards movement on the axles. File too much and the axles will then be too low and would look strange. Or they wouldn’t stay in anymore! Ultimately, You won’t truly know until you put the model back on the layout to test it. wheel simply slots back in and give it a wiggle to feel for any movement. Take the opportunity to clean the wheels and add lubrications the cogs if needed. Bogie moulding simply clips back on. Get it back onto the model and screwed in. back on the layout to test. Do it with the body off so if it still needs more filing, it’s less work to do. the model done 10+ laps of the mainline it derailed on previously and the bogie remained fully on the track. A good result! If it derails again, simply go back and file some more. tested on the other mainline for good measure as well as the points. All good! bodyshell back on. 66711 now a reliable runner on both mainlines. hopefully this helps a few people out.

Nice shot there Ben. Liking the freightliner 90 on the front. I’ve got loads of photos of the mixed rakes operated in Anglia. Unbranded virgin mixed with one and maybe an anglia mk2 shoved in too. Sometimes, even some swallow liveried stock. I think the variety of liveries and traction in the region during this period/era makes it so interesting. I wish I modelled it from the get go rather than the more recent ‘abellio’ era. But it’s too late now to change. The new layout in the future will focus more on the 04-07 era though. I’ll sell off some of the more modern freightliner stock but I’ll keep the Abellio things most likely.

I’d Faint with joy if I ever saw a refurbed DBSO or Mk2 in Anglia livery but I doubt that’s on the cards. I think Hornby would be more likely to do the Mk2s than Bachmann. While Bachmann already do the original dbso, it’s anyone’s guess if they’d stretch to do a retool of the refurbished ones. It makes sense given how popular Network Rail stock is but that’s all been covered by Hornby. I have a feeling that Anglia would get missed out on the list of liveries if a refurbed DBSO was announced (Anglia could be the reason altogether we havn’t seen one yet) but who knows what the future holds. East Anglia had a big variety in liveries on the class 90s, but I just think the lack of popularity in the region puts manufactures off. It’s a swings and roundabouts thing where nobody models it because the traction and rolling stock doesn’t get produced. But the stock doesn’t get produced because nobody models it. You’ve got to be fully dedicated to modelling it at the moment because you’ll be spending a lot more money than others on models getting them all repainted. A major put off nobody (including myself) would like to do, why do this when you can model something like the WCML that has all the stock you’d need to model it available in RTR off the shelf? Plus Hornby churning out more pendolinos every year. WCML layouts bore me to tears though because of how repetitive they seem to be (the vast majority of them being pendolino era) but make a WCML layout with Old Red/Black virgin mk2 stock hauled by AC electrics and I’d sit and watch it quite happily. Hopefully, seeing more ‘proper’ WCML layouts in this form rather than the constant Pendolino/Voyager ones will happen with the amount of virgin stock that gets made - Just waiting on a virgin 90 from Bachmann don’t forget that the 90s and mk3 sets ran as unbranded virgin for some time when they first transferred to anglia so you’d have a mix of liveries and stock amongst the trains. anyway, back to you Jerry!

My DRS Class 37s came back earlier in the week and I had lots of fun running them with the short set coaches and the RHTT! all looking far too clean, and will get weathered when I have a big weathering session one day. The locos are fitted with the Legomanbiffo West Highland file which was recently updated to feature wheelslip along with approved quality of sound. Both tractors are fitted with an EM1 + Tablet speaker combo. They sound absolutely amazing and props go to Roads and Rails for the sound installation. https://fb.watch/3ldc4eW-3a/ A short video posted to my Facebook page above showing them running on the layout. https://fb.watch/3ldgdPK1_X/ A short video demonstrating the new wheelslip

Anglia stands next to no chances unless it’s a collector club release or region specific model (would make sense if it was the latter) Virgin stands the highest chance to go with the rest of the virgin locos and stock getting produced. EWS is up there too, a livery I’d like to see get made. Freightliner Racing green perhaps or RES for the sector modellers.

Always nice to see the Squirrel Rail workbench packed with body shells. Looking forward to seeing the 90s as you know me! im hoping Bachmann announce more liveries for the 90 next month - it would be the ultimate Sod’s law if they did though

bloomin ‘eck! Looking forward to seeing what those end up being!

The 153 and DRS Mk2 interiors had passengers fitted today as well as a driver in the 153. The bodies went back on and I’m happy with how they look. They will look much more effective once interior lighting is fitted though! The 153 is now ready for sound, interior lights and door warning lights. You can’t see much in the DRS Mk2 currently but rest assured the figures are there! The other two coaches will get the same treatment over the course of the week and I aim to fit interior lights too them next week. 37425 and 37424 are due back from sound fitting this week so will get some lovely shots of a proper DRS Abellio Greater Anglia Short set very soon!

Id say no effort has gone into the interiors, the 153s wasn’t too bad - only fault I’d say was the tops of the seats which need to be more of a ‘ring.’ I’ve seen someone have thin wire to make those so that could be an idea on something in the future. the Mk2s was way out though. But for the most part, by the time you’ve added passengers, that’s what most people would pick up on. Not many people seem to bother with interiors anyhow because the attention goes too the passengers on show but at least you know your interior paint schemes are correct or as close as you can get them due to the incorrect tooling limitations. I agree, it’s no hardship to do, I find it rather fun and therapeutic. It makes a big difference and makes it that extra bit more prototypical. I hope it’s strong too it just needs to be super glued to its base once the weights have been added. Should prove strong though!

Spent the afternoon repainting a couple of interiors into their correct colour schemes. Whilst it’s a shame that the manufactures don’t bother releasing models with nice/correct interiors, doing it yourself is rather therapeutic. first interior up was my Greater Anglia Class 153 DMU from Hornby. The model comes with a dull silver interior which is, of course, totally wrong The model was primed with Hycote grey primer and left a couple of days. The primer provides a nice colour for the backs of the seats which is a bonus. The floor was first painted with Burnt Umber. Seats then done with Humbrol No. 421. With the tops of the seats, I had to mix up some paint to get the correct colour. Finally, the tables were done with Humbrol No. 103. At the end prior to varnishing, I like to tidy up the backs of the seats removing any overspill or messy ness by painting over them with Humbrol No.64. Once I’m happy, the interior was Matt varnished ready for passengers to be fitted. Once the passengers are in, the model will get sent away to be fitted with sound, interior saloon lights and door opening lights. Pictures are below including a couple from Flickr showing the real interiors for a comparison. The other interior I painted was for one of my Hornby DRS Mk2Fs. The interiors for these aren’t too bad for ones from the factory. The seating and floors underneath the tables are the correct colours so there’s no point painting the floors in this case as they won’t be seen. But things can still be improved. I didn’t bother priming the interior so this was more a partial repaint. Humbrol No.32 was used to paint the insides of the ‘corridor’ seats as well as the central armrests. I painted the tops of the seats white and done (or tried to do) thin lines to represent the backs and sides of the seats. The tooling for the interior is wrong so there’s only so much I can do to try and improve things. The thin lines were a pain to do as you can imagine. Two steady hands are very much recommended. This was the difficult bit though so when I was happy with the white sections, I painted the headrests of the ‘corridor’ seats in Humbrol No.99. Again, due to the incorrect tooling for the interior, this is probably the best way to replicate the small yellow squares bits on the tops of the real corridor seats. The inner and outer arm rests on the seats were painted with Humbrol No. 118 and the table tops were painted last with Humbrol No. 103 and then everything was varnished for protection. This wasn’t the neatest of jobs but it’s certainly better than plain blue. This interior is now ready for passengers as well, and then I can fit coach lighting to it.

Did you modernise 90002 at all Jerry? The new ‘dome’ roof pod rather than the button? Can just seeing poking up here! it’ll look wicked as well if the customer got the lights corrected to the led type with bi directional marker/tail lights. I need to speak to Illuminated Models to see if they’ll do something to achieve that.

thats good news then Jerry. Glad the chip was found!

More 90s Jerry? What’s the odds that the ‘wait and see’ liveries will be announced by Bachmann next month? looking forward to seeing what those will be mate

Only little bits and bobs this evening. I’ve decided against going for the marker light mods on the 153 and have instead came up with the next best thing by painting the right hand marker/tail light white to make it look as if there’s a dim marker light illuminating. It works quite well, especially when plenty of light is shining on the model. It doesn’t effect the tail lights which is good. Now I just need to get the sound sorted along with the other bits on the list. And the other thing I did tonight was make a dummy tensioning pulley for the electrified siding. It just needs the balance weights which will be getting 3D printed and then it’ll be ready for priming. The mast is from an old Peco mast which was used in the siding before but was just a rather basic one based on those at Ipswich depot. But I noticed I needed one like this. Brass rod was used for the supports and the wheels are snap fasteners from hobbycraft. 0.45mm wire was used for the wire bending around all the wheels. it’s looking a little crude but I’m happy with it - it should look better once primed. I’m chuffed I could make it because I attempted one a couple of years ago and really struggled and didnt know what to do. But in those two years, skills and confidence have come a long way so within a couple of hours, I knocked this one together quite smoothly. Some photos of it loose in situ on the layout. once this is finished, all my existing ohle will be done and ready for stringing. Meaning all that remains will be the headspans. I’m holding fire on those for a little while as I need advice and I’ll most likely get one of the bridges built and installed first.

the Bachmann 90 is totally flawless model, everything about it is superb from the running, functionality, detailing and even the dcc fitting! makes it very user friendly and it’s easily one of the best (if not the best) models ever produced. The annoying sound of the servo is a minor let down but that’s all I have to say about it! The servo itself has seemed to inspire other manufactures (Accurascale 92 comes to mind) to include the same thing so who knows, perhaps servos will get put in models more often to operate movable objects - opening doors on coaches and units sounds quite cool! I’d never entertain an old Hornby model for the reasons you stated. I would however get some old cheapos to do up as dit runners. You can get upgrade kits for the 90 and get new pantographs and pose them down so having those behind a loco being hauled as DIT would be a nice touch. Or maybe one at the back of a train with a flashing lamp. EMUs are vital for setting the GEML scene so yeah, I will 100% get a few. But by the time that does happen, Wratting Road will probably be dismantled. And hopefully, the new layout will be in the making. 321s do still run but they’ll be getting replaced very soon. Ive spoken to someone about commissioning me a Bachmann 350 conversion into a 360 which will include making it a fully prototypical model and I did get a very good price. It’ll just be a matter of getting hold of a 350 in the first place. Perhaps it’ll be one for this year...The bratchell 321 I’m starting to consider because there’s no other way of getting a 321 and won’t be for quite some time. I’ve been told their kits are perfect though for them and for AGA ones, it only requires a slight modification to the roof. it’s just the cost and the fact the kit looks rather basic ( IMO) and would involve a lot of work to get to a good standard. A well detailed rtr model would be cheaper by quite a long way. One of my friends has spent an absolute fortune on his one and I’m not prepared to spend that amount of money but I will see when the time comes. Knowing my luck, RTR one will get announced as soon as I’ve finished building one! It frustrates how overlooked EMUs are in general, a huge huge gap yet to be filled. I hear all sorts of excuses but to me, none of them make sense or are logical in anyway. It’s almost comes across as ‘I don’t like them so I don’t want them’ or ‘I don’t like them so we don’t need them.’ The demand for them is going up from what I can see so I suppose it’s only a matter of time... At the end of the day, it’s a lesson to be learned which everyone goes through. Experience, confidence and knowledge of how to do things would have greatly increased in that time so I’m sure you’ll pull your new catenary off. I would go full beans on modelling catenary but that’ll be for the next layout once I’ve for A large enough space to play with. Then I can build everything from the ground up with realism in mind. I’d personably like to model an overlap sequence or a feeder station (or both!)

My wires are the Peco ones which are made from copper and are around 0.4mm thick. A tad over scale I believe, at least for the contact wires. But I’ve spent the money so I’m going to use them and will use a better, more scale alternative next time. I hear guitar wire is good and tensions really nicely - different materials require more tension than others based on research and from what I’ve been told. I done a small test where I knocked up a block of wood, layed some track and tested the Peco wires to see how they’d cope with tensioning. The track was just over a metre long and had the ‘sprung/tensioning’ mast, a few cantilever masts I’d modified and a piece of h section on its own for an anchor on the other side. My masts I modified, I drilled holes into the sides to slot the cantilevers into and soldered which created a much stronger and better join than soldering it straight to the side of the mast. So the masts were somewhat tested as well. I used smiths coupling springs to apply the tension but the test wasn’t that great due to using my ‘termination’ mast and soldered the spring onto it. The mast had become a bit flimsy as it had started to become loose from its base. I’ll need to have some solid structures behind the backboards to get the best results. despite this, there was no uplift of the wires upon testing and everything was holding itself nicely. The only electric locos I have at the moment are the Bachmann 90s which are very softly sprung. Using its DCC pantograph proved useful because it can be raised and lowered back and forth to see it push upwards and against the wires to see what happened. DCC control means the pantograph has CVs which control its maximum height so if you have wires that stay the same height through the run, you can set it so it just touches them and has no/very little upward force. Which takes the worry out of ‘not enough’ tensioning. However, like the real thing, my wires raise and lower - lower when approaching the tunnel and bridges and raise a little when out in the open. I could always set the pantographs for the 90s to touch the wires at their highest point on the layout. So they will still always be in contact with the wires and there will be very little upward pressure when it runs underneath the lower wires. This time round, I’m having my wires raise and lower much more realistically and I’ve measured the heights of the registration arms from all the masts and the headspan installed so far and the difference in wire height between the lowest point and highest point is 5mm. As the remaining gantries will be on the approach to bridges, there will be less than a couple of mm difference from here on. So in short, the pantographs will change in height only slightly while running around the layout. So I will most likely end up tweaking the pantograph CVS on the 90s so their pantograph only raise up enough to touch the wire at their highest point. anyway, back to the test. I was happy with the results so hopefully, everything will be okay but I suppose it’s a matter of time will tell. As stated above, I only have Bachmann 90s at the moment which are nicely sprung and even on my old set up with no tensioning, there was uplift but it didn’t break the wires. Hornby models would have brought the masts up The only other models I’ll be getting will be the upcoming Heljan 86s. The layout will be gone by the time I start going down the route of gathering emus. I hear the new models (86s) pantographs will be sprung unlike the older model which just had a posable pantograph. So you manually raised it and once it got pushed down, it stayed down. I never owned or seen one in the flesh though, I’m just going on what I’ve seen in videos. Hopefully the new model’s pan is as nicely sprung as the Bachmann 90 but it’ll be on a clip so it’ll be at its highest point when I clipped until it touches a wire causing it to be pushed down. Again, a matter of time will tell. The info has proved useful though so thank you. Best of luck with your future catenary!

thank you very much. was very happy with the 153 got an idea to further improve the directional lights. Will look great once finished hopefully!

Something else that happened over the weekend... I acquired a Hornby 153 in Greater Anglia livery. Been after one of these for ages. I was offered a sound fitted one by a friend a couple of years ago which I VERY foolishly said no too. You can imagine how much it hurt kicking myself ever since! nonetheless, I finally have one and I got a very nice result with it. On Thursday, I saw two up for sale on eBay. First one was second hand in a bidding war so stuck it on the watch list. But below it, was one at a fixed price of £99 being sold as new. I couldn’t be bothered with the auction so quickly snatched up the ‘new’ model after checking the seller and their reviews. AC Models with very good feedback so I had my hopes up. Model arrived on Saturday, box was in good condition and the model was nicely wrapped up in its clear film with an unopened bag of extras which was a good start. Not a single scratch or mark on the model upon inspection so I was immediately happy. So what happened to the other one? It ended up going for £150 with 30+ bids placed on it. I felt I done well with this one I took the model apart to fit a decoder (the body felt as if it had never been taken off) and to look at what would be needed to make it more prototypical as I model Abellio era. I spent some time improving the direction lights by modifying the fibre optics so only the headlight is on and filled the marker lights on the side. The real AGA 153s have the taillights and marker lights on bi directional bulbs. They have a weird ‘alternative marking’ set up where both marker lights are illuminated while shunting but when the headlight is turned on, the marker light next to the headlight turned on, turns off. Does that make sense? Different to other AGA trains that have both marker lights illuminated but it is what it is. So where are the models marker lights? Well... In the vast majority of photos I’ve looked at, the marker lights on the real AGA 153s are incredibly dim to the point they don’t even look on. (all photos are taken from flickr and don’t belong too me) for now, I feel like I can get away with what I’ve done. I don’t think it looks bad at all. I’ve looked to see what would be required to get the fully correct lighting set up but it looks to me like it’ll be a big job to do for what seems a little reward. It won’t be a job I’ll do myself if I decide to get it right so I will have to approach a professional who will know what to do! Here’s some closer up photos of the fronts of the model. Note the Great Yarmouth and Norwich Destination blinds. Perfect! For now the lights will be left as they are. But other plans will be sound (providing I can get Anglian announcements) interior lighting, fully painted interior, passengers, driver and of course, branded up as Abellio. A C3 decal is required underneath the left light clusters on both ends and the bicycle access decal needs to be changed to a red one.