Eveannessant

Ha ha ha, a thought just struck me; it would seem that two Maybach motors have been removed and have been replaced by a single Sulzer.........😂

Eveannessant

Halvarras you must be the worlds most fanatical Warship fan ever........!

With regard to your Epoxying :-), should it ever fail, I'd recommend trying Bondrite Adhesives S1300 or even better S1500 MMA's they're structural adhesives, much better than epoxies.

https://bondrite.co.uk/adhesives/structural-methacrylates-epoxies/

Thanks for posting your brilliant story.

Eveannessant.

9 hours ago, NFWEM57 said:

Below is the PCB schematic.

Thanks Patrick, good of you to share.

Cheers,

Eve

1 hour ago, NFWEM57 said:

ESU decoders

Hi Patrick, good of you to commit to posting a circuit diagram, thanks. I've always found Zimo decoders to be better than ESU, not quite so much on diesels, but especially so on steam outline locos. I've had bad experiences with Bachmann's Hall, even the quick auto fix CV didn't work and in fact made matters worse......never had any troubles with Zimo's. Having said that I do have ESU Loksound's, mostly in some of my diesels, and they seem to be ok. I guess I'm just a Zimo fan!  I have Zimo MX644D sound decoder's in both my Warships, they run so very smoothly.

Eve

I really admire your dedication with the old Mainline version of Warship. I can't quite make out on the photo whether or not the second motor is wired up, or indeed, whether or not it is a motor? It's been so long ago when I had a Mainline Warship I can't remember what the non powered bogie looked like. Anyway getting rid of traction tyres is always going to be a benefit. I might have done similar if a late Bachmann chassis hadn't come along at a bargain price. A circuit diagram of the vero board components would be nice if you would be so kind as to post it, can't make out the resistor values, trim pot values and what the integrated circuit is. To me the value of this information would be for application to other models, as I already have two sound enabled later Bachmann Warships. Maybe it might be useful for older Hornby models with pancake motors etc..

Eve Wallis

10 hours ago, D 844 said:

Bachmann class 42 and class 43 body swaps, The class 43 shell is a fraction longer than the 42 chassis so it fits very nicely onto Mainline, early Bachmann and later 21 pin. The only need to alter is the rear end of the cab interior to clear the bogie tower and pcb on the 21 pin, the screws line-up, job done. I expected the lights to work but they don't they do look different internally. On the Mainline chassis, cab interior to clear the motor and slice a bit of their light holders, the screws don't line-up of course. As the 42 shell is a fraction shorter than the 43 classis, the only things I can see is to trim the buffer beams on the 43 and trim the cab interior.

Thanks for a very useful posting. Do you know if a class 42 shell from a later 21pin chassis will fit on the class 43 chassis? This information would pretty well complete most of the options available for Warship fanatics :-)

Cheers,

Eveannessant

Both my class 42 Warships are of the later type with PCB's, I have installed both with ZIMO MX 644D sound decoders from You Choos, and I haven't noticed any roughness when starting or running at any speed. The decoders are just plugged into the onboard 21 pin socket. Only the speaker wires needed to be soldered to the foot of the socket. Maybe the decoder CV settings on your Zimo MX 638D could be the cause of any roughness?

Cheers,

Eve

Thanks Ray and Chris for continuing this thread, it is indeed food for thought.

Oh & by the way, on the class 42's I found that by removing some of the plastic lumps opposite the attachment lugs on the inside of the body, the body will sit down on the chassis better so that the issue with the cab steps is dealt with.

Cheers,

Eve

Hi Ray,

No I don't think that sound has been compromised, it's not really possible to mount the speakers under the chassis in fuel tanks on the Warships. Space to mount speakers is very limited.

I haven't used BluTack, Black Tack has much more adhesion, if I was really worried I'd have used a structural MMA (Methyl Methacrylate Adhesive) such as Bondrite S1500. Anyway you can see the roll of black tack in the first photo, it can be a bit of a pain to cut some off the roll, and the backing paper. I got my roll from You Choos.

Going back to your photo's of the class 43 chassis, it's struck me that the class 42 bodies might well fit, maybe after altering the under body in the cab footstep areas. I don't have a need to do this, but I'd be interested to know if anyone has done it or not. Is the Class 43 body any different to the class 42, with respect to grills and exhausts etc? If it's the same , a simple identity change might be a much more sensible option.

Cheers,

Eve

I've altered the speakers and their location is now underneath the PCB, between the flywheels and drive towers. I've also changed the speakers for 8mm deep Ice Cubes, again from You Choos. These produce a much better sound than the 5mm deep Sugar Cubes. Next I managed to get hold of "The Royal Naval Reserve" body in blue, and ransacked the cab and directional lighting boards for my green D800 Sir Brian Robertson, which in turn has been given a new identity as D832 Onslaught, transfers and etched plates from Fox Transfers. Both D809 and D832 now have identical sound eqt.. Photo shows speaker location on the underside of the PCB, however speaker wires have since been lengthened and run on top of the PCB to avoid any slight possibility of being damaged by the flywheels. Speakers attached with 'black tack".

Does anybody have a definitive list of the models that had lighting or without lighting, and ride height variations, this would aid buying of items from flea-bay.

Wow, this is a very informatve & helpful posting by Silver Sidelines. I have two of the later Class 42 Warship chassis, one bought complete as D809 Champion, it's been a real pain to fit sound, however by attaching the speaker wires to the feet of the 21 pin decoder adapter (two pins immediately next to the blank indexing space) I have got sound working using a You Choos supplied Zimo MX64 decoder and two 5mm deep sugar cube speakers, quiet at first but altering the volume to 85% is acceptable.

The other chassis was a blue one bought complete 5-6 years ago, this was to replace an old Mainline chassis. I painted the visible part of the chassis green to match my mainline body and it worked fine, in fact for 5 years the body was held in place by slightly wet paint. Previously, I too had removed the mainline motor and ran it as a dummy with the other Bachmann Warship.

Six years later I'm wanting lights & sound in most of my models. To this end I purchased a Bachmann body from e-bay, thinking of proper attachment to chassis and lights. It was D800 Sir Brian Robertson, I was a little put out by the fact that it wasn't the same internally as my Maroon D809. Ho hum, I suppose I'll have to resort to hard wiring, strip board and LEDs with resistors. I wish I'd found this most informative posting previously..................it'd have saved my purchasing a body that's little better that the Mainline one.