Eveannessant

There's a photograph of D1062 Western Courier in Maroon with yellow buffer beam, no location is given. But as it's preserved on the SVR, I suspect that it's a livery applied in preservation? There isn't as far as I can tell any record of the this livery having been applied to this loco during BR service. Is it photo'd somewhere near the rear of Kidderminster SVR Diesel depot? But there's that Guy in a BR uniform pointing...............................

Ha ha ha, a thought just struck me; it would seem that two Maybach motors have been removed and have been replaced by a single Sulzer.........😂 Eveannessant

Halvarras you must be the worlds most fanatical Warship fan ever........! With regard to your Epoxying :-), should it ever fail, I'd recommend trying Bondrite Adhesives S1300 or even better S1500 MMA's they're structural adhesives, much better than epoxies. https://bondrite.co.uk/adhesives/structural-methacrylates-epoxies/ Thanks for posting your brilliant story. Eveannessant.

Thanks Patrick, good of you to share. Cheers, Eve

Hi Patrick, good of you to commit to posting a circuit diagram, thanks. I've always found Zimo decoders to be better than ESU, not quite so much on diesels, but especially so on steam outline locos. I've had bad experiences with Bachmann's Hall, even the quick auto fix CV didn't work and in fact made matters worse......never had any troubles with Zimo's. Having said that I do have ESU Loksound's, mostly in some of my diesels, and they seem to be ok. I guess I'm just a Zimo fan! I have Zimo MX644D sound decoder's in both my Warships, they run so very smoothly. Eve

I really admire your dedication with the old Mainline version of Warship. I can't quite make out on the photo whether or not the second motor is wired up, or indeed, whether or not it is a motor? It's been so long ago when I had a Mainline Warship I can't remember what the non powered bogie looked like. Anyway getting rid of traction tyres is always going to be a benefit. I might have done similar if a late Bachmann chassis hadn't come along at a bargain price. A circuit diagram of the vero board components would be nice if you would be so kind as to post it, can't make out the resistor values, trim pot values and what the integrated circuit is. To me the value of this information would be for application to other models, as I already have two sound enabled later Bachmann Warships. Maybe it might be useful for older Hornby models with pancake motors etc.. Eve Wallis

Thanks for a very useful posting. Do you know if a class 42 shell from a later 21pin chassis will fit on the class 43 chassis? This information would pretty well complete most of the options available for Warship fanatics :-) Cheers, Eveannessant

I know that this thread is old, but there's an important point being missed if an NCE UTP is used with a 12vdc source, the instructions MUST be closely followed, with the incoming RJ12 lead (from the NCE Power Pro or Power House) being connected to the correct RJ12 socket as is marked on the UTP PCB. This stops 12 vdc being back fed in to the Powerhouse or Power Pro controller, which apparently can cause major issues that can only be resolved by NCE. Presumably the same is true with the Powercab and SB5 booster combination? I've used the DCC Concepts Alpha Panels, but I cannot find any documentation regarding this issue, nor is the PCB marked in any way. I'm very tempted to add a NCE UTP in my cab bus at an appropriate place if it ever needs more power, that way I can be certain. As is stated above DCC Concepts "manuals" are at best confusing and in some cases misleading. I think that there's far too much sales bull**** and not enough facts. That being said the staff at DCC Concepts are some of the most helpful people that I've come across, and the company's after sales care is second to none.

Oh,........ itseems that TCS UK has been discontinued? Shame, John Russell was always very helpful. Now I do have a UWT 100, it's better than an iPhone with wiThrottle, but no better than a iPad with wiThrottle IMHO. I find the screens on smart phones too small. The most annoying thing that I've found with my UWT 100 is that it doesn't display 28 speed steps, ok it will still control any loco with whatever speed steps entered into a decoder, but it only ever displays 128 speed steps. If anyone else knows how to alter this, I'd be very thankful for the information. Other than that it's fine, a good easy to use simple and intuitive throttle, very similar to an NCE Procab / Powercab, both of which I love using. However because of the speed step issue I rarely use it, because it makes controlling an express train really frantic, having to keep turning the thumbwheel or push buttons repeatedly........................If I want an untethered throttle I'll use my iPad. Regards, Eveannessant

Hi, I know that this thread is old, but so am I........... I've neaarly finished building a Comet Std 5 chassis, I have a Bachmann body for it, but I'm after a BR1F tender for it, so that it can represent one of the 73110 - 73119 batch of loco's. What RTR models used the BR1F tender other than some of Bachmann's std 5's ? Is there a Hornby BR1F tender? and is there a version with decoder mounts inside at all??? Cheers Eve

The delays to producing 00BH slips, diamond crossings, med rad turnouts, after the availability of 00BH streamline track (is it 4 or 5 years now?), must have caused many to build their own items, as I have........................so there's a silver lining to many a cloud. Necessity is the mother of learning new skills. Peco double and single slips? I'll believe it when Hattons and Rails have them in stock.

Hi, love your alias name! If you read my post again, you'll see that I stated that it was the encoder that was at fault. This is the electronic device that the knob controls................ Actually, if it wasn't for the very common encoder fault, for the price the MRC / GM PA2 would be good value.

I know that this thread is way old by now, however for the benefit of others in the future that may be faced with this dilemma I will add my own experience of both. Originally when first setting out on the DCC path I chose a Gaugemaster (GM) Podigy Advance squared (PA2) this is a rebadged MRC product. At first I was very happy with it, but after a short time the speed control knob wouldn't work properly, I eventually had 3 of these located around my layout plus I also had a wireless version too. All 3 wired versions had the problem with the speed control knob at some time or other. In the meantime my layout grew ever larger, and I purchased DCC Concepts alpha power and alpha box with a alpha central points control unit, and all the cross over conversion cables to enable running with PA2 system. I soon got tired of paying for posting back handhelds to GM, and requested they post out the defective part replacement (an encoder) which I could easily replace my self. They always refused to do this much to my annoyance, and although they would always repair or replace without charge, the fault would recur 8-9 months later. So I sold all of my GM PA2 stuff, I'd had enough of it! Maybe GM & MRC have now replaced their awful encoders with more reliable versions in later years, maybe with the back lit version of their handheld??, but my expereince with them was for over 6 years. I then purchased an NCE Power Cab and integrated it with the DCC Concepts alpha items, this is so very, very, much easier to do with NCE equipment, no converter cables needed. But I needed more hand held throttles etc., and soon upgraded to the full blown 5 amp Power Pro system, and have since added a Wi Trax WFD 30 card and a TCS UWT 100 Universal wifi throttle to my system as well another NCE Booster when I divided my layout into two power districts. I have never been happier than I am now with my NCE system. Oh and the very versatile PowerCab is used as another throttle or to program accessories and dcc equipped locos on a separate programming track. I also noted soon after purchasing the PowerCab, that the encoder manufacturer, part number and where to purchase from is shown in the owners manual, I got mine from RS, they're pretty much "cheaper than chips". No I haven't had to replace one yet either, they're there just in case. I'd also add that the DCC Concepts Alpha Boxes are now redundant for the time being because the Alpha Central unit just plugs into the NCE command bus in exactly the same way as any other NCE piece of equipment does. The Alpha boxes are now going to be used as a booster, BUT to control separate DCC layout accessory buses. Bottom line in my experience is this; No matter if I hadn't had any problems with the GM throttles, I'd still have been be better off with the NCE equipment. I should have purchased NCE when I started out with DCC. Cheers, Eve

Great stuff, but a common crossing jig would be a most useful tool, perhaps similar to the 00 gauge DCC Concepts jigs, which I've found to be exceptionally useful. Now building 0 gauge I find that it's such a struggle to find equivalent items that I just took for granted in 00 gauge. Yes 0 gauge is enchanting and I'm slowly turning............... Cheers, Eve