97406

25 minutes ago, DBC90024 said:

 

Was it relatively easy to make those triangular cantilevers? As I'm planning to use that style on my layout ? :-)

Yes, using the Peco mast I drew a sketch on graph paper, based on a photo of the real thing. I used .75mm nickel silver rod for the main triangle and side assembly, and .5mm brass wire for the registration arm (I think that’s what it’s called) that holds the contact wire. I found this flexed a little too much on some so some got replaced with slightly thicker wire. I used thin masking tape to hold down the components that needed soldering. I made a top piece out of a strip of plasticard, and insulators from 0.3mm brass wire coiled around the .75mm nickel silver wire. Apart from the soldered joints they are glued together with superglue. The thing is to ensure the contact wire is lower than any other parts of the assembly or the pan head will catch it. The contact wires are held in place with a blob of superglue, and this can be heated with a soldering iron if you want to remove a piece of wire for maintenance.

The picture above is the test piece, the proof-of-concept if you will, so that’s your first thing to do before it gets rolled out on the layout. .

10 hours ago, letterspider said:

I have that Sommerfeldt and although very fine is also very robust - apart from the base really would have been a better choice for Heljan.

I agree that of itself the pantograph looks good and is an improvement in the right direction, however when the Heljan 86 is put next to a Bachmann 85 or 90, you get the feeling that Bachmann were uncompromising in their aims

 

My 2 non-sprung Heljan pans now work quite well, but I’ll go for the Sommerfeldts. It looks like the Heljan metal base can be fettled with a file so the pan just drops in like the Hornby bases I’ve used before.

The Hornby crossarm pan from their 87 also doesn’t work properly on catenary, with the pan head flopping over to the side, which is a real shame as I like the look of it. I have a poseable Judith Edge crossarm pan on an 86, but my soldering skills weren’t quite up to making it work fully, alas.

19 hours ago, Strathyre said:

are those available to buy?

 

Paul

I understand you can send the file to a commercial 3d printer like Shapeways and they print them. I have some class 86 compressor shelves (from someone on here), to replace the one I broke on my Heljan model, and also for my Hornby fleet in due course. https://www.shapeways.com/product/7SX4KWHEF/1-76-class-86-underframe-with-one-compressor

6 hours ago, Pete the Elaner said:

 

When designing them, I checked photos of class 87s, 50s & 58s. The fittings looked different. I'll make no claim about my artwork being bang on. I certainly guesstimated them, but from photos of class 87s, not 50s or 58s.

 

My 3d printed ones are certainly different to those on a Hornby class 50; the 50s being taller but the receptacle on the 2nd man's side of the 87 is wider.

Yes, I think the real 50 ones may be different too having squinted at photos. I really need to get up close and personal to 87002 that has a real set. Here's my Hornby 87 duplicates.

4 minutes ago, Wrenn said:

Hi thanks for sharing your TMD layout. It's looks a lovely little layout with some really nice modelling.

Thank you! It's been great fun to do. It could in theory get integrated into a larger layout at some point in the future.

The growing heritage fleet:

The pantograph looks good, but nearly destroyed some of my new catenary due to the pan head not sitting straight and the springing being too strong. My banger blue one now has a spare Sommerfeldt 927 on a Hornby base. The original blue ones have had the springs removed and a tweak so that they can be posed at about the right height. This is something that does need to be addressed, and watch out if you have modelled OHLE. Beware!

On 18/05/2021 at 14:12, Pete the Elaner said:

 

Probably my 3d print .stl. Forums are not the best place to store things because it takes ages to find them in a thread...assuming you have the correct thread to start with.

Here they are with a photo of some fitted to a class 87. Please excuse the livery. I had a few old Lima 87s & did 1 in a bizarre livery just for a bit of airbrush practise. 

 

 

class 86 87 MU jumpers scale.stl 44.13 kB · 11 downloads

They look similar to the castings I took off the Hornby 87, size-wise. I wonder if the ones on the 50 are a touch too big having scrutinised some photos, though I still think the Hornby 87 ones are a little too small.

One of the few shots of the construction. I wish I'd kept more of a record in hindsight!

I may just wait for the Heljan 86/4 and make moulds as I have 2 on order. My small, but perfectly formed appendages look good enough for now. The pan needs some work first as the geometry isn’t quite right having just installed catenary.

Or in the spirit of using a sledgehammer to crack a nut, I could always treat myself to a 50, as I haven't got one yet and a large logo one would work in my era. I am trying to go for at least one model of each class eventually.

I could make a set of moulds off that and use car body filler to make the items. It takes a couple of goes before you get a decent set. Food for thought as a set could also end up on the 87. Nevertheless the 87-based MW looks OK.

34 minutes ago, GRUNFOS said:

Have you tried Peters spares, that's where I got mine from but it was a while ago, wanted ETH cables but ordered the wrong item!

Still showing as sold out. I could try and contact Hornby. I got some discs for my class 31 that way.

3 minutes ago, cravensdmufan said:

The loco looks fantastic Paul.

 

Like 97406, I'd like to know what cable boxes you used please?  I feel the ones one the Hornby 87 look a little undernourished - yours look just right!

 

Cheers.

 

Vivian 

Yes, I think they’re a little on the small side, but it’s what I had to hand. I scoured t’internet for class 50 ones, but to no avail. There is a 3D print file somewhere on here that I could have tried, but I was unsure of the dimensions being a bit of a newbie to that sort of thing.

44 minutes ago, GRUNFOS said:

Just finished MU fitted 86 002, used E3156 as a base rather than removing orange cantrail stripe on 85 036.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Drivers fitted in both ends, etched arrows fitted and a blast of matt varnish to bring it all together.

Paul.

What parts did you use? I moulded mine off the end of the Hornby 87 and used fuse wire for the cable.

23 hours ago, P.C.M said:

I have almost finished my class 25. I think a tad more weathering will do it.

I think Heljan have dropped the ball a bit on these with badly fitting headcode components badly fitting cab windows and overly chunky windows wipers. I ended up making my own wipers and cutting the windows to fit individually.  My Heljan class 33s have some nice flush windows and finely molded wipers which makes me wonder why the class 25 didn't have these. I guess it comes down to production costs. Otherwise a pretty good little model.

Cheers Peter.

I may do my 25's windows the same. I bottled it, trying to remove them. Did they come out easily?

1 hour ago, cravensdmufan said:

Three models in Rail Blue.  All manufacturers have the shade spot on to my eye.

 

I'm delighted with all three locos.

They've all sussed rail blue out well. My blue 85, 86 and 87 have all been patched painted with Railmatch acrylic or enamel blue, which is also indistinguishable. The yellows on the other hand need thin coats of pre 84 yellow and post 84 yellow acrylic until they match.

I only have a small depot layout with a fiddle yard, but I'd say there's little to choose between the 3 models when it comes to performance. My running is slow speed, but they all excel at this. Using some rickety old scales, the Bachmann 85 is about 400g, with the 86 and 87 at about 480g. All run quiet. I'll leave comments on haulage and speed to those with larger layouts.

I haven’t really noticed the chunky ladders on mine, but if they do start bothering me, then signal ladder looks to be a promising replacement.

I’ve used a light detergent solution, ready-mixed car screenwash (also good for cleaning records), or that clear pump-action antibacterial spray. All appear good and didn’t affect the paint. I’ve also used acrylic paint thinners, but this created a bloom on the surface of the paint. A happy accident as I wanted a worn finish under the weathering.

I missed the boat with the SLW ‘Experiment’ so a Bachmann one will do nicely, having just got a 24/1. That cab front roof profile that dogged the old models is gone.

I did use 1000 grit wet and dry to remove the numbers and arrows, then then T cut to give the areas a little polish. Once the transfers and etched arrows had been fitted the upper body was masked off and the  body  sprayed with satin enamel varnish to seal the transfers and even out the finish. Followed by a light dusting of frame dirt acrylic on the lower body sides, and the same paint on the ends but watered down a lot with thinners.

34 minutes ago, Wagonmaster said:

 

Can't help noticing the prismatic effect of the cab glazing in that photograph. I wonder if Shawplan will produce some Laserglaze for it?

To reduce the effect, I used a thinned down mix of acrylic black paint and thinners applied on the inside edges of the glazing (from the inside) with a tiny brush so it got drawn in. Better to experiment with a thicker paint and thin it, rather than the other way around or you risk getting it on the front.

It's worth bunging the large handrail holes with some yellow acrylic paint beforehand or you risk the paint oozing out under capiliary action. Makes them go away, too!