Graham T

That sounds like a lot of effort, but well worth the results. What did you use for the ballast itself?

I'd second Simon's idea. I use masking tape when cutting very small pieces of etch (still doesn't stop me losing a fair few though, to be fair...)

Looks pretty good to me. What materials are you using?

I'm fairly sure I could manage the shell, and then use perhaps Scalescenes papers for the brickwork. Do you have any recommendations for all the other items though please? The range of products is nothing like what was around when I was last involved in railway modelling - there's (almost) too much choice ... And having seen what you've been building for Aston on Clun it seems to me that you know what you're talking about when scratch-building is concerned!

It's a beautiful building I think. And as you say, the size is about right I think for what I'm building.

Ultimately I would love to build this: It's Rowden Mill in Herefordshire, so would fit in with my plans for the imaginary location.

I'm not sure yet, to be honest. I'd like to try my hand at scratch-building, but would be starting from scratch (haha). Maybe a bridge would be a relatively simple project to start with. Famous last words!

I've now put the river bed in place, cut from 2mm ply. But I'm a bit stuck now, as I'm waiting for backscenes to arrive, and also a pack of Peco bullhead flexitrack. The plan is to lay out the tracks so I can get an accurate idea of how the curves will flow through the scenic section, then I can cut the elevated levels of ply to carry them across the river and into the hills. Then I'll do some experimenting with how to position the backscenes, so that I can get the landscape contours to match up with it. I think at that point I might be ready to start thinking about laying some track (provided that I can get hold of some code 75 points...) That of course opens up a whole new set of questions though! Wiring, point motors, and what to lay the tracks onto. I have some 2mm cork sheet, so am thinking about using that, not sure if it would need two layers though. I haven't yet decided on what control/power option to go for, and have almost no idea about point motors. From what I've been able to find out roaming around the forum, Gaugemaster Seep point motors look like they might do the trick. I must admit that at first I thought I could do without motorised points, as the layout will really be more for looking at than actually operating - but obviously it will need to run, and so I'd have thought that manually switching points is a sure way of destroying various bits of scenery as I reach across the layout... Anyway, here's how it looks.

I think I can hear the Stukas starting up ...

Thanks, I'm already watching the progress of Warren Branch - great stuff there. Having slept on it, I'm going to stick with the cutting and copious application of trees! In the photos above, the left-hand track comes to a halt before reaching the wall, so never actually goes through the backscene. I'd have to knock through into the bathroom for that, and I don't think the landlady would be too keen...

it's been a busy few days at Chuffnell Regis. The mounts for the backscene are now complete, and I've been playing around with some mock-up scenery, to see if I can make the "disappearing branch line" (TM) actually work. I think I might be able to get away with it - just - if I use some strategically placed trees as view blockers. Another approach would be to have the train go off into a tunnel (there's a prototype for this on the Wye Valley branch, just south of Tintern station); but I'm not keen on using a tunnel there because access would be difficult in the event of e.g. a derailment. I'd need to cut an access space through the bottom of the baseboard. It could be done, but I'm not overly keen. That being said, it would look better ... Anyway, here's how the mock-up looks. I'd really appreciate any opinions and constructive criticism please!

I've started putting the backscene mounting boards in place. Ply sheets fixed to the wall with Command velcro strips, and a curved sheet of cork to carry around the corner. I considered trying to bend ply for the corners, but decided that cork sheet would be a lot easier and work just as well.

I thought Ernie drove the fastest milk cart in the west?

I know that the Great Western wasn't exactly known for standardisation, but wasn't a sign like this something that they might have produced a "job lot" of? I'm thinking about the "Beware of trains" signs, for example.

I'd also go with the smaller one I think. Neat work.

Nothing better than messing about in boats...

Me also. I keep it next to my tin of elbow grease.

I like the detailing on that coach! Could you tell me a little more about it please?

As the bishop said to the actress, I finally managed to get some wood... And so the baseboards are now in place!

I haven't tried it, but even PVA might work? Get a thin film of it across the opening with a cocktail stick or similar. I'd recommend a test on some scrap first, mind you...

I've used kristal klear and had good results with it so far.

You should try this stuff: Very good for making small windows. It will probably cope with gaps up to about 5mm.

Looking very good! I'm enjoying watching this one progress.

Thanks. It was more the curves that I was asking about actually. I'm thinking about using curved corners and then fixing on ID Backscenes using these. I know that I could/should paint my own, but ...

It is. What material did you use for the curved backscenes?