Klaus ojo

Jayk, for motorized bogies perhaps have a look at Ian Smith´s stunning steam railmotor at > Modbury - Page 28 - 2mm Finescale - RMweb <. Here the link for the turnout video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ1I9wWJ3c8 (And the photos from my first attempts is at "What´s on my Workbench" and not at "questions" ) cheers Klaus

Hi Jayk, do you mean the class 22 diesel or the class 02 shunter? The latter does only have a simple chassis without gearbox, the class 22 is body only. Both problems can be solved depending on what experience you already have. However, I doubt it is wise to take this choice. Well- I did both and I´m a newbie to 2mm FS as well. You might have a look at some photos earlier in this thread for the class 02. There is more than one experienced modeller who did advise to build your own chassis. The 2mm SA booklet for split frame design will help you doing so, and you might search for and find some advice here as well. My class 22 is still lacking some driven bogies because I had to postpone this in favour of other models. Basically making bogies will not be much different to building 2 chassis for a 0-4-0 with a underframe connecting both. Basically- whatever you do first it will be to get some experience. If you want a little diesel and you want to "make it all by yourself": perhaps take the Worsley Works Class 04 Tram for the body and the 2mm FS chassis for the Farish 03 (3-680) to get a proper chassis with a useful jig. The Tram is good for covering the wheels if you end up with trouble. For the points: Do you know the video of the fellow building his n gauge turnout with a print of a point, a dremel and a bogie only? This works in 2mm as well, although I have to admit that the 2mm FS methods and parts are having many advantages. cheers Klaus

Simon, don´t worry, it will get proper wheels: I won´t araldite the 14mm rims onto the present driving wheels. Crimson lake is a nice color and I do not want to make more changes on the loco. So let´s see if I´d be able to turn a dome and chimney and have hands for the lining...

Nigel, Simon, Bob, your hints are much appreciated and I am getting the imperession I should bring it to a showable status. It will not be the last loco, so the next one with bogie will have a taper for some sideplay. I´ve been playing a bit with wheel sizes and agree that the 6.5mm bogie wheels look better. I´ve also simply slipped rims over the 12mm wheels. It looks like there is even space for 14mm drivers (lower picture) but this looks slightly too big while 13mm seems too small (upper picture. If someone would have told me such things a year before I would have called him a rivet counter.) I don´t want to promise too much, but when it has buffers and a dome and a nice black or red underwear I might show it again. Yours Klaus

Thanks Simon, that trick of Keith Armes with the opened wire loop will help me to keep the piston rod centric. Or some very similar solution. I am having some of the parts mentioned in that thread, however, decided to have a go with the parts coming with the kit as a first run. It is possibly a good idea to modify the slide bars as well and not only the 2 crosshead parts. To illustrate the source of the problem to other readers here a photo of a more previous state of building. Here everything still is fitting to the slots. It will possibly not keep this neat alignment after some mistreatment during soldering and bending the slide bars... (Just to avoid any misunderstanding: I like these kits. Sometimes you need to find your own solutions) I think the loco needs larger wheels a) because the chassis is lopsided ( nose up) with the small wheels, b) despite all filing and changing to 6mm wheels the bogie wheels still don´t have enough side play and c) the wheels are stolen from another project. The loco now runs relatively smoothly and so it is time to continue with my Bavarian CIII. I am still rather ignorant of the refinements of British railway companies and their livery. So it is possibly a good idea to choose the proper livery later. Thanks for the link to Witney Euston. I was aware of that layout but not that a Deeley Compond is running there. cheers Klaus .

@ Simon yes, the "cylinders and slide bars unit" is not plumb in its rests and needs some more tweaking as well. I have to admit that I did not entirely understand how the etch is meant to construct the motionwork. So I took a brass tube for the cylinders with the downside that the slide bars had to be mounted "somehow differently". There is no instruction for these kits and so I do as I think and can. You can develop a lot of skills with Allen´s scratch aid kits. That´s the fun. The cross heads e.g. are too flimsy to have correct support on the slide bars which is causing some more need for tweaking. The loco should have 14mm wheels as well and currently has 12mm. This may contribute to a slightly strange appearance as well. And reading your advice I am now sure that I´ve ordered the wrong muffs because I can´t read... That´s the way it goes. @Tony (?) it is always fun with the mix of pieces with metric and with imperial standards - I suppose as a consequence of availability of tooling, suppliers etc. The worm gear set currently is imperial and 100DP (approx. mod 0.25 or so) and needs a 1/8" muff while the other gears are metric and want 3mm muffs. However, it works together and that´s the important thing. cheers Klaus

Hmm... ...so I just had luck and my muff was concentric or I intuitively ended so after having played around with the parts? The gearbox in my eyes should make things easier and not more complicated. So far for me this did work well. This is my first loco with motor in the tender and drive via cardan shaft. So much to learn. And indeed this is the very purpose. My loco is not yet running perfectly smooth due to the too long silicon shafts causing vibrations just like your flywheel. cheers Klaus

Oh! Sorry for having forgotten to tell you: I did not have an imperial muff in my gloat box and so could not take the worm gear set as suggested. So instead I took a mod 0.3 28teeth gear with 3mm hole from 2mm SA shop and an OD 3mm mod 0.3 worm (from MicromotorEU? The brass worm needed to be glued onto the 1.5mm axle) As I did not get the imperial muffs yet I could not tell if this is worse or better but I´d assume that the plastic worm might be less noisy. Oh, and you need a rather large reamer for opening the hole for the axle muff. cheers Klaus

The 2mm SA gearbox came quite right for this Worsley Works MR Deeley compound. I had no problems with insulation as I glued it to a PCB spacer to stay at its place. Everything is nice and square (which is not guaranteed at my self made gearboxes these kits usually need) The loco may need some more parts and wheels the right size, however, I always feel fine when "it works in principle"... cheers Klaus

I do not know if I´d trust a source which does not know that W must be 50% heavier than Pb and please do not cut a 0.5mm sheet of that kind with scissors. A trustworthy source I know is very significantly dearer (specialist metal wholesaler) There are not many why could roll tungsten.

You are aware that the putty is not heavier than lead shim? If you want to avoid lead it is helpful and you can squeeze it into the corners. I did not know that it is so difficult to get lead shim. I´d have some- unfortunately on the continent. Are you possibly VAG member to contact me if you need some? As you´ve gone outside for your work: You certainly know that the most important measure when working with lead is cleanliness of the workplace and hands- especially after your work. You will unlikely produce much airborne dust when cutting or filing lead shim or soldering but the mask will remind you not to touch your face with dirty fingers. Don´t wash your working clothes together with your children´s pyjamas. Sorry, I had to write that (occupational disease)

Do you know all these historical photos of prototypes where exactly at the parts you are intersted in - there is a staff member standing in front of it? Possibly the loco finally will get an appropriate colour. As well as the figurines. After I´ve solved the problem with the expansion links which could cause 4 electric shorts each revolution of the wheels. Or I´d simply cut them on top. I had to do some not so accurate modifications anyway to gain the necessary clearance for all the parts of the motion work... [... p.s. after some twiggling with a 0.25 mm PET shim between chassis and body there are no shorts now. How do I deserve this luck?...]

The station staff is proudly posing in front of the LNER V1 which at long last did arrive from Worsley Works´external construction site with addition of wheels and parts from 2mm Scale Association shops. Obviously the loco is not yet in its proper livery and some other work still has to be done. Would apple green be a good colour or is black colour enough? Would it pull more than one coach? Most important for me: The Walschaerts valve gear is properly moving now, although in mid gear. Time for gaining some more practice in contructing chassis with Walschaerts gear... cheers

@Mike currently William at VAG is offering a Jubilee chassis together with wheels and body. Have you already built a loco chassis with Walschaert´s gear? If not, you might probably face some difficulties at your first attempt. So it possibly is a good idea to get some practice first with less risk of loss and do the Black 5 later. Worsley Works are offering some Britannia and BR Class 5 chassis for little money. For soldering all these bits and pieces of motion work this is a good entry. These "scratch aid kits" are having some downsides for a newbie because you´ll have to invent your gearbox by yourself and see how to get a split frame. However, Nick´s videos will give good advice. And when you´ll suceed at first or second attempt you will find a body to fit on and show us proudly. The one photo is showing that there is some milling and grinding necessary. Or planning in advance if you prefer. The other photo is showing a DelPrado body of a LMS coronation which is a bit coarse but you sometimes can get rather cheap. That just because you recently said that there are no attractive British models from that source. @ John, I´m pretty excited to see some locos with Walschaert´s gear growing here. Will you build it in mid gear or do you intend to go the extra mile for moving radius rod? I´ll be highly interested in watching. And I´m sure this will encourage me to get my locos ready as well. best wishes Klaus

This is really looking great! It is a pity that it doesn´t work to your satisfaction- for just now... It is a bit looking as if the loop would only pivot on one side but that may be a matter of perspective of the photo. What do you think about a loop design allowing more side play for the pin/hook for tight curve radii. This could certainly be done with this elegant DG-like design, however, other designs of prototype couplings would give much more excuse for a bigger and more coarse loop design. I am pretty sure you will not really need my thoughts but I felt invited to tell them. (Personally for my choice of prototype I´d take an ordinary central buffer and a 3 link coupling on both sides. But not this year and probably not next.) best wishes... photo: HSB coupling: fido / buntbahn.de (at bing.com)

The "Taschenbuch Deutsche Dampflokomotiven" by Horst J. Obermayer is a good overview saving space and money. For some more specific interest and if you like more and a bit larger drawings and pictures: The former east German "transpress " at their time has published a series of books named "Dampflok-Archiv" edited by M. Weisbrod, H. Müller, W. Petznik, A.Wagner and many others. There are specific books for DRG, DR and DB locos and the Länderbahn Locos, (east-)diesels and for wagons as well. The books have been reprinted by Alba Verlag and Bechtermünz Verlag as books with hardcover. Sometimes you can get some for a good price (and sometimes not: wait for your chance!). You may have a look as well at "Länderbahn-Report" by Verlagsgruppe Bahn/Eisenbahn-Journal. They come with titles like "Bayern-Report" or "Sachsen-Report". What you get here is a bit of history and track plans as well. You can get a DVD with PDF of a compilation of these for reasonable price. Unfortunately the resolution is not very good for the drawings. But then you know what you need printed. "Eisenbahn-Katalog" series by Gera Nova Verlag may be interesting for some photos although this is covering less prototypes than the latter. If you get one cheap or if by chance this is matching your field of interest. As all the books are more or less based on the same couple of photos available

This little class 02 shunter is a Worsley Works kit I´ve built during last months with addition of 2mmSA wheels and other parts. It comes with chassis but without a gearbox. As it is one of my first attempts of a loco with chassis it is looking a bit freestyle. However, I am slightly proud that it is running now after changing to that little black 6x12mm coreless motor. ( Julia, thanks for this and other hints!) With a slightly bigger motor I had mounted before I did not manage to add enough weight to ensure rail contact. Maybe it needs a bit more refurbishing, new painting and weight and possibly a DCC decoder. But all that must wait for after the SEQLAG 2021 challange: There are already many pretty trains almost finished and I´d like to see my own train finished in time as well...

@ Sam Kennion Well, yes, a photo of the prototype is in my post earlier on page 1. I am having some more photos, however, they might be copyright protected. You are right, it will have outside cylinders and of course it will get crankpins as well . I will have to attach the Hall cranks before and axle prolongations which will lead through the outside frame. I agree, there is still much to do before it will represent the loco.

Greetings from BOB to SEQLAG Please let me introduce you my entry to SEQLAG´s build a train challenge: BOB is an early German pre grouping railway officially called „ Actiengesellschaft der koeniglich priviligirten Bayerischen OstBahnen“. (Sorry for enthusiasts of Berner Oberland Bahn or any other BOBs.) This private company was founded in 1856 and has been nationalized and merged with Bavarian national K.Bay.Sts.B. in 1875 because competition did diminish profit of both railways. BOB for me is perfect for 2mm FS for several reasons: · Bullhead rail with chairs in Bavaria is prototypical at that time - only at this specific time. · The prototype at that time generally is still rather British · Drawings very often are in feet- well: Bavarian „Schuh“ - which is 292mm by the foot/shoe. It is no problem that this gives a little bit more enlargement: the RTR models -if available at all- do suffer this as well. · The tiny early wheelstock is better off with 2mm scale than the 1:160 scale typical on the continent. · Almost everything has to be scratchbuilt. Please allow some look-alike solutions for the first approach. To make it easier for me and to encourage others I´d try to use components available from the 2mm SA shops. (Special thanks to the shop keepers! I kept them quite busy for the last months to build up a reasonable stock for my tinkerings) The loco will be a C III, a 0-6-0 with outside frame and Crampton type boiler, a robust prototype but I fear multiple chances for an electric short with split frame. Perhaps I´ll end up with a scratchbuilt chassis. To get a more exotic touch it will be peat fueled, giving a need for a peat tender and an additional peat wagon. Not so much progress so far: the J94 chassis and the boiler. When should I be finished? The wagons are having some chassis of correct wheelbase from shop 2 or are made with W irons. The more complicated cattle vans are not yet ready for being shown around. The symbolic half finished kits of a box and a pig van will be replaced by more prototypical models. Of course a part of the wagons is coming with brakemen´s cabs, as continental trains usually do not have separate brake vans.

Well, these 2 are simply dealers offering a little bit more items from UK than the usual continental model railway shop. AFAIK nothing more.

The stone sleeper system did not last much more than 20 years in the very beginning. It was not very durable. I´m not so sure that you will find much of wooden parts after 150 or 200 years. picture of Cromford and High Peak Railway (Wikipedia):

... if you are interested in how securing the chairs: most likely wooden dowels and nails or screws https://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=2870&forum_id=11 lead - as suggested there as well - is not really suitable. cheers

Hello Prof, I´m not sure if this does help as the photos are gone: https://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100439&p=1122547&hilit=robel+kibri+16100#p1122547 https://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=163988&p=1896865&hilit=kibri+26100#p1896865 I do not have one of these models, however, Kibri is known for PS plastic kits and so the 16100 kit is supposed to come with parts on the sprue, no motor, no decoder but fun to construct it. (about 40 EUR) The 26100 is readily built, however, again without motor (about 80 EUR) Expect the wheels to be plastic and to be exchanged. The arm is said to be not working, just deco. If you want it motorized, with light, sound and decoder and working arm Viessmann will take your left arm (or more than 250EUR likewise). https://www.modellbahnunion.com/Spur-H0-00/Bahndienstfahrzeug-Robel-Gleiskraftwagen-54-22-Digital-Sound.htm?SessionId&a=article&ProdNr=Viessmann-2610&p=802&CAWELAID=120096200000020691&CATARGETID=120096200000021174&CADevice=c&msclkid=e68fee5131a7181744318ed082926f4c "Der Kranarm ist ohne Antrieb." The mech is without drive. (However, I´ve seen this with drive on a video from Nuremberg fair...) So I hope this answer is better than none- until somebody answers with an own experience. Yours Klaus