Pierview

Hi GE I am pretty certain I used Railmatch 317 Deltic Blue for this model although it was a long time ago! The other alternative, which I used for my static showcase Deltic, was Phoenix P110 Prototype Deltic Blue (Dull), but my personal opinion was that this was a little too dark. So far as mini drills are concerned I've gone for a Proxxon, which will be receiving as a birthday present soon. Barry

Here's my Kitmaster Deltic motorisation, which I completed about 2006. If I remember correctly I followed an article in BRM by George Dent and used a Lima class 37 chassis which was cut to fit. I subsequently replaced the Lima wheels with an Ultrascale set. The body was detailed with Shawplan parts and transfers and plates are by Fox. I carefully removed the raised plastic lining from the body sides, which is an exercise that I have done many times over the years with plastic kit conversions. The Deltic was a complete departure from my usual modelling interests but I had always wanted one so it had to be done!

Tim Many thanks for the images and gen on the D15 class. They had all gone before I began spotting but I have always liked the look of them and have intended to make a model for a long time. The photos in particular will be extremely useful. More news after the summer when I get construction under way! Barry

After a concerted effort over the last week or so I have completed the rebuild of the 2-6-4T. The remaining small parts have now been fitted together with final detailing. The lining transfers are a mixture of Modelmaster and Fox, whilst the numbers come from the PC sheet kindly donated to me by Enterprising Western (Mike) to replace my depleted supply. As acquired the kit was numbered 80015, and as this was a Southern /region engine, and one that I saw, I decided that it should keep its identity, although with the correct livery this time! Before and after views! I think this rebuild has been rather like a Barry Scrapyard restoration, and I reckon that the cost of the project roughly equates to the price of a new Bachmann class 4. As the latter model has better detail and no doubt runs smoother it could be argued that the exercise was a bit pointless! I knew what I was getting myself into when I started the project , however, and the exercise to turn a wreck into a useful member of my stud has been great fun. I am an admirer of modern r-t-r models, which I buy fairly often, but I don't want to become just a collector. From a personal point of view I think it important to do some real modelling from time to time in order to practice those skills learned over many years. It's now time for the summer modelling recess now before I turn my attention to building the Bec LSWR D15 kit that I purchased last year. Barry

Thanks for the recommendations folks. I am currently looking at the Proxxon range but as is often the case these days there is no one to ask about specific items. Which drill and power unit would other Proxxon users recommend? The FBS 12/E seems closest to what I need but there are a number of different models and I find it difficult to make a choice! Barry

My existing Rotacraft mini drill requires replacing and I would be interested to hear recommendations from fellow forum users as to which product they consider to be the best buy. My drill is used almost exclusively for loco and stock building and the only criterion I have is that it must be capable of holding small drill bits. I had to purchase a separate chuck for my existing drill to enable it to cope with smaller size drills. I have an open mind as to the replacement and I am not necessarily looking for the cheapest . Your views are welcomed! Barry

Well spotted DCB! The body was only placed on the chassis for photography but I agree that the front appears high, and I also remember that my HD model displayed the same characteristics. Anyway, I have today followed your lead and taken a big file to the model. I think that I have levelled it up a tad and certainly the front buffers now appear to be closer to their correct height. I find that it is often difficult in getting a pre-assembled model to conform and I should really have followed my usual practice in dismantling completely. It's had a good wash this evening, so now on to the paint shop! Barry

The rebuild project has swallowed up many hours over the last week or so but I have reached the stage where a trip to the paint shop is imminent. The chassis has been completed and now runs quite nicely. Because no splashers are present on this locomotive I opted for top of frames pick ups, bearing directly on to the tyres. It was good not to have to dodge springs and brake gear which is often the problem with under chassis pick up arrangements. Unusually for me the chassis worked first time, which was a pleasant bonus! Brake shoes and rods are from the Mainly Trains etchings and whilst I didn't have any BR pattern shoes I found a fairly good likeness on the MT Southern sheet. The already assembled front pony and rear bogie trucks were cleaned up , fitted with Markits wheels, and secured to the chassis. As I had a spare flywheel to hand I fitted it to the motor as there was just room to squeeze it into the firebox. The body has received quite bit more attention to fit missing and extra details. The steps came from the Comet sheet and are very good, although a little flimsy. The under tank piping and LH side injector assembly were cobbled together from 30 amp fuse wire and old white metal castings, whilst the triangular tank lifting plates were made from scrap NS sheet. Brass safety valves and whistle are to hand but will not be fitted until the body has been sprayed. Annoyingly, the cab back head was missing from the loco as acquired and I therefore fitted a Craftsman casting for a "Lord Nelson", which was the only belpaire type I had to hand. I am not too worried about this as very little will be seen when the cab roof is in place and the general impression is there. Incidentally, the cab roof has only been placed in position for the photographs and will be permanently fixed at a later stage. A short break now before the process of painting and finishing. Barry

I already have far too many Foden steam wagon models for my own good, but when this damaged example came up on E-Bay recently I had to have it. The attraction was the superb lettering and lining, and I won it at a very reasonable price. I have repaired some of the damage but unfortunately the chimney is missing and for once my spares box has nothing suitable. This is a white metal kit, originally made by EAMES, but the chimney from the Keil Kraft/Hales/ Amerang plastic Foden kit is equally suitable. If anyone has a spare part or a broken kit that they no longer need I would be pleased to hear from you! Barry

I am looking for a chimney for a Foden steam wagon kit. My model is an EAMES white metal kit but the chimney from the plastic kit by Keil-Kraft/Hales/Amerang is equally acceptable, if anyone has a wreck they don't need!

The earlier work described was actually done a couple of weeks ago and in the meantime I have moved on with both chassis and loco body. The chassis has now been wheeled with Markits drivers and a Mashima 1428 motor with a 45:1 HL Hiflier gear box added. The cylinders and valve gear were slightly twisted but perfectly salvageable with a bit of remedial attention. Because I didn't have to assemble the valve gear from individual components the unit went back together into the chassis surprisingly quickly and the next thing to consider is the pick up assembly and brake gear. Whilst I was waiting for the wheels to arrive I turned my attentions to the body. The Dettol bath struggled to remove all the thick paintwork and needed a bit of help but i got there in the end. I did not dismantle the entire body but the boiler and smokebox unit was not aligned properly so I eased it away and re- glued it in the correct position. I renewed all the hand rails and had to make replacement firebox top pipework as the original was missing. The cab roof sliding doors were also missing and replacements were cut from scrap brass. I fashioned a replacement tank vent on the LH side as the original survived but then got lost. The sand pots were missing and I found replacements in my spares box .The bunker rear was completely bare and needed detailing with lamp brackets, steps and hand rails. By the time I had drilled holes for all of these the bunker back was resembling a colander! I also fitted lamp brackets to the front of the loco and added a turned brass smokebox door handle to replace the cast original. Finally the cast chimney, which looked nothing like a class 4 type, was replaced by a Markits example. The remaining work will be the steps, injector assembly and under tank pipework. The original steps were missing and I will be using Comet etched replacements. As these are very vulnerable they will not be fitted until late in the re-construction. Now to get the chassis finished! Barry

It's funny how one's modelling priorities can be changed by a chance purchase. Two months ago I had no thoughts whatsoever of acquiring another BR class 4MT 2-6-4T and was quite content with my ancient but re-wheeled and detailed Hornby-Dublo model. I then spotted the following on that well known auction site. In consequence I am now beavering away on a rebuild which for some inexplicable reason has jumped to the front of my modelling queue! It was a fairly well made DJH kit albeit minus wheels motor and a few other small details and painted in an attractive but spurious BR green livery. I could see the potential of the model ,and my bid saw me obtain it at the starting price, which ,in all honesty, was the maximum I was prepared to pay bearing in mind the work required. I have always liked DJH kits and a few years ago successfully resuscitated a BR 84xxx which was a basket case when I acquired it. I find that it is extremely satisfying to undertake such rescue projects and it is probably the reason that I find the Repair Shop good TV viewing. My first job was to dismantle the chassis. I didn't like the cut outs in the frames which were designed for an earlier generation of motors so I soldered in triangular fillets cut from scrap brass. The DJH white metal brake shoes were missing so I decided to fit etched ones, and drilled the frames for the support wires, which were soldered in. Now on to fitting the wheels and motor. Barry

I have always been fascinated by Kitmaster/Airfix kits and here are some of my efforts. To start we have the first of my BR mogul motorizations, 76026 . I originally built this as a schoolboy back in 1963 by cutting down my Tri-ang 2-6-2T chassis. This was a common Kitmaster motorization of the time and one of the few conversions that managed to look the part. My version has had many upgrades over the years with the original Kitmaster loco and tender bodies being replaced by the Airfix reintroduction. The original chassis (or what remains of it) now has Romford wheels, K's valve gear from the Ivatt 2-6-2T, and in recent times Comet cylinder covers. My second mogul, 76016 is slightly more sophisticated and was constructed using the Branchlines motorization kit. This is quite a complicated kit which needs to be taken slowly but I enjoyed the build and was pleased with the result. The first of my Schools is 30919 "Harrow", which uses the excellent Craftsman etched chassis kit. The Airfix kit received a lot of extra and replacement detail with some boiler mountings being obtained from other sources, including SEF. Etched brass deflector plates are fitted which do much to improve the look of the front end. Finally we have my second Schools 30917 "Ardingly". This has an almost identical specification to 30919, The Craftsman kit is no longer on the market but it is well worth getting hold if you can find one. It is easy to assemble and produces an authentic looking chassis for the plastic kit. The Kitmaster range was of course of its time and bears no comparison with today's super detailed models. With a little care and a great deal of work ,however, the kits can still be made into reasonably attractive models. I have 15 conversions to date although I am not likely to attempt any more! Barry

Thank you Mike. I would be happy to purchase that from you if you are sure you want to part with it. Perhaps you could PM me with details? Barry

With a spate of loco building this year I am running short of transfers, particularly from the HMRS sheet 14, which I have used for years. Unfortunately it seems out of print at present. Does anyone have any news as to when it might be available again? Barry

I have just completed my PDK ex LSWR G16 class loco kit which I started to build a few weeks before the first lockdown in 2020. I had the body and frames completed when the project had to be sidelined whilst I awaited the arrival of wheels and then the gearbox. However, a month or so ago it came to the top of the queue and the result is shown here. I won't bother with details of the actual construction as this was covered very comprehensively by Ray Norwood in his 2018 thread. It was in fact Ray's superb effort that persuaded me to have a go as I am not that experienced with etched metal kits. I have to say though that I found the PDK kits to be very user friendly, and I was sufficiently encouraged to start with the H16 4-6-2T kit before moving on to its close relative, the G16. I enjoyed the construction of both kits and would certainly consider others, despite the fact that these days the cost of kit plus wheels, motor and gearbox makes it something of an expensive exercise. My model is OO and has Markits wheels throughout. The gearbox is a HL Road Runner + with 60:1 reduction and the motor is a Mashima 1426. I chose 30494 as the subject of my model as it was the only one of the class that I saw. I must have 'copped' it on a trip to London with my parents about 1960 I think. My final photo is is a re-creation of the one taken by A.B. MacLeod at Eastleigh in the 1930's and which appears in "LSWR Locomotives" It shows G16 494 back to back with diminutive C14 3744. My models are of the same two locomotives, albeit in BR livery. Barry

Thanks for your offers of help chaps and forgive my earlier impatience! Having had a look at the instructions I think that I can source or make the parts that are missing or need adding. I have already obtained some Comet BR standard fittings from Wizard Models and the wheels and motor are also on order. It won't be a cheap exercise but it could be interesting. I did a similar rebuild on a wrecked DJH 84xxx some years ago and I was very pleased with the result. To make it worthwhile though you have to get the damaged kit at a cheap enough price. Finally, I hope that your household is soon Covid free, Ian. Barry

Absolutely no response so I guess that this is not a very popular kit! However DJH kindly e-mailed the instructions so I am now gathering the parts necessary to get the rebuild under way. Further details will follow at a later date. Barry

I have just obtained a partially complete and damaged version of the above kit and I am starting to gather parts for a rebuild. Does anyone have the instructions that they could copy for me ? I think that I know what is missing but the instructions and parts list would be useful. Barry

I must stop rescuing waifs and strays from the clutches of E Bay! I have a very large collection of 4mm steam road vehicles and with my display cases crammed to capacity I really have no need of any more additions. However I can't resist a bargain, and a recent bid of less than £4 gained me no less than 4 dismembered traction engine kits and a showman's living van. All were white metal kits and had been painted in rather garish liveries. The now customary Dettol bath treatment (one of the many excellent tips picked up on this forum) quickly returned them to bare white metal and enabled me to commence re-assembly and repair. All were missing parts to a greater or lesser degree but I managed to find replacements from my spares box and by sourcing bits elsewhere. Other components were fabricated from scrap. Painting took a long time because of the fiddly bits but they then looked rather better. Details of the individual models start with the Showman's engine. This is an Anbrico kit of a Big Lion Showman's Road Locomotive, first produced about 50 years ago. I can recall building my first example (which I still have) in 1972! I had to find a rear canopy support and I also added other detail including steering chains. Chains are an essential feature of traction engine models and I have fitted them to the other models rebuilt in this exercise. it can be sometimes difficult to find chain with small enough links but fortunately my wife and daughter donated some discarded necklaces ! The Showman's Caravan is an unknown make white metal kit which needed replacement rear wheels and a top to the clerestory roof which I fabricated from scrap metal sheet. The other traction engine kits are all by Rowlands Miniatures, the first being a Fowler B6 Road Locomotive. This required a replacement chimney, flywheel and driving wheel. The Marshall General Purpose Traction Engine had suffered more than the others and required replacement governors, off side footboard and front wheel , hand wheels and winch rollers. Finally we have the Fowler Ploughing Engine. In contrast to the other models this was complete but in dismantling for painting I damaged one of the rear wheels and had to replace it with a spare. I find the restoration of white metal wrecks of both rail and road models to be a quite absorbing pastime and very satisfying. Inevitably a great deal of work is involved but given the cost of white metal kits, both new and second hand ,these days it can be a very economical way of boosting your model collection. Now back to rail matters and I really must get on with finishing my G16 4-8-0T ! Barry

With the improvement in the weather I was able to spray the 15xx outside and move on to completion as shown in the photos. I have aimed to portray 1504 as I saw it as a schoolboy at Paddington in the autumn of 1961. I notice from photographs that the prototype had lost its whistle shield by then but mine has the one supplied with the kit as I didn't have any individual GWR whistles to hand. Anyway, I think all self respecting pannier tanks should have one ! It will be back to Southern projects next, in particular the completion of my PDK G16 kit, but these will have to wait until I have caught up with decorating and gardening. Barry

The range of Lledo steam wagons is extensive with a great deal of potential but I find it annoying that none are made to 4mm scale. If you want an accurate Foden steam wagon to suit your period it is worth looking at the range of 6 white metal kits made by EAMES of Reading in the mid 1970's .They are long out of production but examples still turn up on E-bay from time to time. An alternative is the plastic kit by Keil Kraft (later Amerang) This seems very similar to the EAMES kit but suffers in that it has an empty cab devoid of boiler and valve gear details. However these can be replicated fairly easily from plasticard and scrap materials. The plastic kit lends itself very well to conversion possibilities and I have built 11 of them in various forms. Both kits have the distinctive cast spoke wheels favoured by Foden for their overtype wagons.

This is the latest addition to my road steam collection and is another E-bay rescue. The model as acquired was in the parlous state shown in the first photo and I nearly dismissed it as being more trouble than it was worth. However, I could see that it was a Standard Sentinel steam wagon kit by Langley Models and as these don't come along too often I decided that for the small financial outlay it was worth a punt. The kit had been assembled in an odd fashion with the front apron lower than it should have been and some improvisation had taken place to compensate. The chassis was distorted and the whole thing was covered in a treacle like application of green paint. When I gave it the Dettol treatment the dissolved paint allied with the glue to create a thick sticky mess which was the very devil to clean away from the component parts and I spent a happy few hours cleaning up each piece in turn. At this stage I began to think my first reaction was correct but I persevered and reassembled the kit as shown in the second and third photos. Barry

I have now completed the body for the 15xx class. I get the impression that Autocom must have improved the original K's kit as there appear to be a few extra details and minor changes. The cab front casting has a large rectangular hole , presumably to clear the original K's mechanism, but the back head does not conceal it and leaves daylight showing either side. To get round this I filled the hole with a piece of scrap white metal and then made a smaller hole to clear the front shaft of the motor. The biggest problem I faced with this kit was that there were no handrail holes nor punch marks for them, so I had to work out their location with the aid of plans and photographs. This took quite a lot of time as there are more than a few handrails on these locomotives. The small rear locomotive steps were part of the rear bunker/ buffer beam casting but for some odd reason were facing backwards. I can only think that this was a misinterpretation by the original kit designer and I got round this by cutting them off flush with the bottom of the buffer beam, lengthening them with scrap white metal and then remounting them in their correct position inside the buffer beam. The reversing rod was a hefty casting which neither looked right nor sat properly so I replaced it with one fashioned from scrap brass etching. The injectors were a little troublesome as again they were rather delicate white metal castings and needed to be drilled out for the copper wire. Needless to say, I managed to snap one but manage to effect a repair. I thought that the wire supplied with the kit was too springy so I substituted soft copper wire intended for jewelry work and obtained from my local arts and crafts shop. I have added some extra detail but I am sure that I have missed something as the 15xx is a complicated little beast of a locomotive which is quite different to most GWR types. The painting will follow when the weather settles down sufficiently to enable me to spray outdoors. Might be a few days yet! Barry

I have now completed the 15xx chassis which is running quite well at present although the mechanism still needs to bed in I think. I am always apprehensive about walschaerts valve gear assembly, particularly when an older kit design is involved ,but this one went together reasonably easily. I feel that the motion pieces are of their era though and perhaps a little on the chunky side. I did try to slim them a bit with a file but I am not sure that this has made much difference . The only problem I had concerned the valve rockers which hold the combination lever. The white metal castings supplied were impossibly delicate and both broke whilst I was assembling the valve gear. In my opinion they needed to be made of something a little stronger such as brass in order to do the job. I saw no point in requesting replacements as these would probably also break, so I substituted U shape strips of NS and glued these in the fixing holes instead. I salvaged parts of the broken castings and thinned these down before gluing in place on my replacement strips. The second photo shows the chassis with the completed cab and boiler/pannier tank placed in position for effect . The pannier tank has not been cleaned up yet. I am quite enjoying this build so far! Barry