trustytrev
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Posts posted by trustytrev
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Hello,
Finer wire and a socket/plug combination as used by Hornby or Bachman would sort it.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Much has been said about the cost of converting locomotives to DCC. I have some DC locomotive but do not intend changing them to DCC because they are obsolete, crude, inaccurate or no longer fit in with my requirements.
I will hopefully sell them in the future to someone whom finds them satisfactory. By the numbers of more up to date realistic more accurate models being sold I would suggest this is a route many follow.
At risk of this disappearing was that not the fate of clockwork ? In these times I would suggest DCC controlled locomotive are more desirable than plain DC for exactly the same reasons more features. Track/layout control is a separate subject whether using DCC or DC so should not be a factor really.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
From some of your experience earlier in life you might care to look into MERG. From your posts it appears you already have the skills to easily make an informed decision with information available there.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Here is a link to Luddite on google as I am at a loss as to why my post was disappeared. Good manners cost nothing.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=luddite+meaning
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Perhaps decoder cost for DCC is a bit of a red herring really.
Don't all of us tend to go the extra mile when it comes to railway modelling be it better wheels, detail, etched chassis or repaints etc etc?
Surely that is one of the reasons we all come to this site anyway.
trustytrev.
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9 hours ago, Neil said:
I'm similarly amused when locos are driven into wrongly set trailing points on DCC layouts and everything shuts down.
It's obvious that you have your preferences and I have mine. We both have different opinions over what constitutes complexity and what trade offs we're prepared to make when it comes to selecting a system.
It's a DCC ready model with a factory fitted socket. It works perfectly on DC, with the DC blanking plate out it shows no short on DCC yet put a chip in (one we know works, tested in another loco before and after) and it shorts. Try another working chip and it does the same. Even if there's some weird sh!t decoder/socket interface thing going on it's still a DCC problem as all is well on DC.
I'm not saying that DCC is the spawn of the devil, or the model railway equivalent of the emperors new clothes, but I will say that it's not without it's negative points and that pretending that it's perfect or that it will suit eveyone's needs is just plain wrong.
Hello,
I may be missing something but to run on Dc don't you need to fit the blanking plate? It wont short on DCC if there is no blanking plate fitted either. That is because the locomotive motor is disconnected from the track due to an incomplete circuit. Sound like the problem mentioned could be due to lack of knowledge rather than the DCC chip.
trustytrev.
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10 hours ago, Chris M said:
I just don’t see that dcc provides a near prototypical running experience any more than dc and yes I have tried both. There is no right or wrong, just what works for you.
On my garden railway and one OO loco I have installed battery powered radio control and I rate this as absolutely brilliant. No wires at all for track, no track cleaning and no stalling on points; you really are driving the loco and not the track. I really think this is by far the best system but as yet it is not suitable for N. It is great for older 00 diesels where there is plenty of room in the body for batteries. It’s a shame that the likes of Bachmann and Hornby have no interest in BPRC because I think it would be a great step forwards. I just use NIMH batteries and they run for a long time between charges. The only down side I have found is that locos don’t stop when they come off the track...
Hello,
Do these batteries take up less space than a DCC chip and can the locomotives be controlled/run as well/easily as DCC fitted ones? And cost?
trustytrev.
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22 hours ago, WIMorrison said:
Every time I have looked at MERG stuff I have been glad that I stuck with conventional DCC, they seem to want to make it complicated and enjoy showing how impressively complicated you can make it with their 'demo' boards.
Hello,
As far as I am aware MERG DCC is the same NMRA standard as everyone else. Conventional DCC.
trustytrev.
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10 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:
....and thus another interesting DC/DCC discussion is once again dragged down to the throwing insults level...
Hello,
I find it strange responding to a derogatory remark in kind results in my post disappearing and further remarks such as this.
I will not throw my dummy out of the pram though. After doing plenty of research into lots of commercial DCC options from different manufacturers I decided the best option would be to join MERG.
Doing that has enabled me to learn lots about electronics and railway modelling related technology. I have a better understanding of how stuff works and how to sort it out myself. Joining MERG means I bypassed all the pitfalls and expense of commercial DCC offerings and being unable to rectify faults. I also became aware of a lot more options in regard to layout control and operation methods. I use MERG DCC for loco control and CBus for controlling the track/turnouts etc. I also am able to access kits for testing DCC decoders, track testing, servo testing, train detection , DCC reverse loop control, etc,etc. On top of that there are guides to the hobby related electronics and the generous help and information on the forum from fellow members at all levels. It also has something for those whom wish to remain with DC as well. I have found most things in MERG follow the shortest easiest and simplest route to solutions for model railway matters. MERG is absolutely overflowing with interesting things about DC/DCC as well.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Quoterecently in Wright Writes, when a RMweb member asked how he could keep his soldering iron tip free from crud or corrosion and last longer.
I do believe that was me.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Quotecompression ratios in engines
Now there's a blast from the past. So many years ago.
For those interested here is a link to the phosphoric acid. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Essentials-pH-Down-250ml-pH-Control-81-Phosphoric-Acid-Hydroponics/253192096259?epid=1422808434&hash=item3af36cca03:g:kVwAAOSw8Y1bq37T:rk:13:pf:0
Being from Lancashire means I am more frugal than a Yorkshireman. Just need to sort out the 145 degree solder now. There is a product that lowers the melting point of solder. Is it really possible I wonder.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Thank you for making it all so clear. Tens and hundreds after the decimal point.
It is so easy with hindsight.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
With the edited numbers please.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Is that 259ml divided by 1350ml multiplied by 0.81 = 15%
250ml divided by 1640ml multiplied by 0.81 = 12.3%
and 250ml divided by 1350ml + 25? multiplied by 0.81 = 12.6% ?
25 what ? and where does the 0.81 come from? if you could be so kind.
Thank you.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
Thanks for the replies. How did you both work it out to get different answers?
trustytre.
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On 18/12/2013 at 22:14, Coombe Barton said:
75% Phosphoric Acid - http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/phosphoric-acid.html?gclid=CMrUh6nkursCFbMPtAodpQ0AwA £5.17 plus carriage £8.16 in all - came as promised
1 litre Carplan De-ionised Water, Sainsbury's £1.30
250ml 75% Phosphoric acid makes 2 litres of 9% flux or 1.5 litres of 12% flux - cost each dilution £10.66,
Better than three quid for 60ml.
Hello,
I got some phosphoric acid 250ml at 81%.
Can anyone tell me what amount of De-ionised Water I need to add for 12% flux please?
I have tried working it out but I just get confused by the difference between 75% and 81% strengths of phosphoric acid.
I know it would make a larger quantity but I would like to have an accurate mixture strength.
Thank you.
trustytrev..:)
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Hello.
I am in the process of doing a Comet rebuilt Scot/Patriot chassis. I Am using some Gaugemaster Brass Flux from years ago with 60/40 tinmans solder. The solder on the parts does not shine as brightly as some demonstrated in your Locomotive Kit Building Guide video. Also the solder tip gets crusty and dirty extremely quickly making picking solder up on it very limited. I note you seem to be able to melt and pick solder up much easier and longer than I can manage . I am having to flux the iron tip virtually every time I want to melt and pick up solder to transfer to the joint.The dirty tip/flux issue is causing tips to erode prematurely. I assume the combination of flux and solder you use is the solution to my problem. Could you advise the solder and especially the flux you use as I am not entirely satisfied with the results thus far.
Thank You.
trustytrev.:)
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Hello,
This link though quite old blows the myths and mysteries about Klear into perspective quite well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6dXkL6CwGY
I hope it makes things a bit clearer.
trustytrev.:)
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Hello,
The ideal would be boxes and packaging that flatpack for storage when the contents are in use. Then when we die the inheritors would have to match all those items with their appropriate boxes to shift them on..
It could create a whole new industry with jobs for those doing it known as box matchers. Or they could just sell them seperately I suppose.
Or not maybe.
trustytrev.
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Hello Gordon,
I think a nice glass or two of Shiraz is in order to celebrate you latest achievements. You deserve a few glasses of red too.
Cheers.
trustytrev.
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Hello,
You could try the Pound shop for a couple of pairs of glasses. Keep the screws sling the glasses?
trustytrev.
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Hello,
I think you have the issue sorted now Gordon.
trustytrev.
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Hello.
I encountered the same issue after using Templot to recreate part of Lancaster Castle station. I produce a compromised plan that I was eventually able to accept. It did mean curving the visual part excessively at either end but still retain all the track as per the prototype.
It was then that I realised the long goods shed would have to be curved when in reality it is straight. I am still at that impasse as the plan is not viable for the location it needs to fit otherwise.
Life has got in the way since so not much progress has been made. I still ask myself "How many curved goods sheds have existed on the West coast mainline.?"
I suppose building a convincing curved representation of the real one is the only way forward.
PS.Why does spell check insist on Americanising perfectly good spelling like "realised". Or is it right?
trustytrev.
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Hello,
I used to have a lifting flap construction across the entrance of my railway room but found it got too complicated and heavy when wanting crossing at multiple levels.
I took it down and made a fixed section that I could crawl under. Having seen your efforts I think I might have a go with something similar as crawling under is getting a bit much now.
Have you had any problems with distortion/movement at all?
Thank.
trustytrev.
Pragmatic Pre-Grouping - Mikkel's Workbench
in Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding
Posted
Hello,
Two of them can look down on another but only one has to look up to both.
It was and still is a great skit about class.
trustytrev.