Johnfromoz
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Posts posted by Johnfromoz
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As with Birdseye circus, I too am struggling with dcc installation in the senior scale. Being new to O Gauge and despite having fitted a couple of hundred decoders in 00 over many years, I am somewhat confused about chipping my new Heljan 37. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a basic tutorial for beginners with a couple of pictures regarding dcc installation.
I have heard all sorts of horror stories about blowing the lights in O gauge when installing decoders. Is it simpler for a beginner to use the Lok XL that seems to have screw terminals? If so, which wires go where? What would be the best speaker for the HJ 37?
Grateful for any advice you experienced O gauge guys can offer.
John
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Anyone tempted might want to check Brian Daniels' thread in kitbuilding/scratchbuilding where he has moved the side windows on a Heljan 26 to 27 conversion - an aftermarket 37 etch would help!
Good luck to anyone trying to move the 37's windows! Examine the whole bodyside first - the windows share a correct relationship with many other grills and features. The eye is drawn to the fact that they are a tad low through comparison with the obvious datum point; the cab door windows. But perhaps it is the cab door windows that are in error? I don't know.
As is often the case with innaccuracies in our scaled down versions, the solution is not as straghtforward as appears at first glance.
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A closer examination of the Heljan side profile suggests to me that most of the side detail has the correct relationship with each other - the windows are slightly lower possibly due to too flat a curvature on the cantrail grills. The plain liveries nullify the error somewhat, or at least makes it less obvious.
With regard to the body screw issues, anyone finding an interim solution to releasing them other than drilling them out?
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and the real thing
Looks to me that the prototype window level is somewhere between the Bachmann and Heljan renditions (albeit closer to the Bachmann effort) Definately not a dealbreaker for me. It is cruelly exposed by the TTG livery line, but I doubt I will even notice it on my green version.
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Further to the tight screws saga, I wonder if carefully heating the screws with a soldering iron might assist before screwdriver. I realise this might make the screw expand, but might soften the bond with the plastic?
John
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Good to know Steve.I've test run a few and all have been very smooth at slow speeds using a basic Gaugemaster controller.
Have ordered myself a green FYE version. I assume Heljan don't include a number sheet of transfers for these?
John
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Has anyone actually given any of these a test run yet? If so, can anyone venture any comments on low speed control/smoothness etc?
TIA
John
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A couple more quick snaps of 68005
Hi Nick,
Brilliant layout. Do you have any ideas about rectifying the DRS livery on the other side of the 68? I'm thinking a respray would be too complex. Looks like we will have to live with it.
John
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So assume they are selling out rather than being pulled? Hattons normally says when items are of stock rather than just nothing showing, I see nothing now for 68005 for instance, seems a bit odd.
If selling out in just days seems someone got the demand figures a bit wrong!?! Maybe its all the returns/swaps for wonky plates etc
Yes I am extremely curious about what's going on with their sudden dissapearance......
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Hopefully this can be sorted out very quickly to make you change your mind. I am really looking forward to receiving ours and my own one today. I have ordered the DRS livery myself. What I do find that is really disappointing is that at least two posters had raised the livery errors to Dapol in July and August 2016 in Dapol Digest. In particular the need to centralise the livery on one side.
Hi,
Can't see how this error can be sorted out quickly. Whats done is done with regard to the incorrect livery of the DRS examples. Beggars belief, given the general effort made to reproduce this complex livery. Given production costs, it would seem unlikely that Dapol would issue corrected body shells, but I suppose anyhthing is possible (pigs flying by!!!).
I am certainly not a pedantic modeller, and have overlooked many production 'sins' that others have baulked at in the past but this is an error too far for the price.
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Now that the 68 has broken cover, a couple of points:
The overall quality of the body moulding, the seperate details and (hopefully) decent running makes me just about able to forgive Dapol's usual little finishing niggles (wonky nameplates, bit of glue showing etc.)
However, now that we can see a VERY significant livery error on one side of the DRS versions which in effect renders one entire side of the loco's paint scheme as bogus, I am really suprised that this issue does not have purchasers more concerned. We are not talking here about a questionable paint shade or a few edges that can be touched up. Nothing can retrieve this major error, save a total repaint of this complex livery on one side. Not feasible for most. For those not aware of the extent of this error, observe and compare each side of the loco. I am inclined to reject my purchase over THIS issue, more than a few minor ones raised earlier.
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Like many here, the 08 has fuelled my first dalliance into O Gauge, having picked up the pre and post TOPS blue versions. Mightily impressed with both, one now has sound, the other plain DCC.
Looking back at the earlier angst in the thread about 21 pin control of all functions and the unsuitability of MTC chips for these, just thought I would let interested parties know that the humble 4 funtion cheapie from hattons operates all lighting (switchable) on my d3045 EXCEPT the cab facing shunt lights. Given the decoder cost I think I can live with this.
Superb motor control too, though I think this is more to do withe Dapol motor than the chip. (Has anyone yet had a rough running 08?)
John
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The Dapol 08 Doctor will see you now....
Am I the first to dismember my 08 completely?
Being quite comfortable with taking things apart and not too fussed about warranty (once I had proven it basically works).
Contemplating fitting a Zimo 644D sound chip to my 08 last night led me to start removing screws to see if access could be made as simple as possible.
So, as others have found, the body and chassis can easily be separated with two small screws (one at each end of the chassis) , remembering to carefully
disconnect the wiring/plugs inside and gently threading the chassis out of the plastic items (vac pipes, rear crossbar, pipework plugged into chassis etc.).
We now have the two parts - I want to fit a crew, the Cice art ones are very nice and a good price too..
See here http://artcice.wixsite.com/cice
Body
Therefore I needed to gain access to the cab. Removing the two side by side screws below the cab allowed the whole assembly to lift vertically away from the bodyshell.
Again, take care that the wires to the cab and marker lights are threaded out as well. The wires are thin and easily snagged..
With the cab free, it is found to be made up of two parts, the control desk and floor separates from the outer cab body by very very gently easing the cab body outward starting with the control desk end and working round (note, it may be glued) to the back of the body where there are two very small clips in each corner of the rear cab inside wall.
Once free, the two parts separate to reveal a very nicely detailed cab - you can now add more gauges/detail and crew easily.
WARNING - be careful of the hinged doors, as the fine wire pin that secures them is liable to fall out... Best keep the cab body inverted to help keep the wire in.
The main body/nose assembly is also glued to the footplate (most probably to avoid a gap showing !) although there are two recessed screws if you are needing to separate things further. I chose not to, as access is now clear to easily mount a speaker behind the nice mesh radiator grille.
The Zimo dual chamber speaker is an easy fit with plenty of room available.
It can be secured with blu-tak or a small bracket.
Also plenty of room for a small smoke generator. <a project for another report later>
Many will have found that the centre lower marker light is not active (no led fitted). I plan to add one as there is some space - albeit tight...
With a Zimo decoder a separate funcrtion can be added to drive this if required (or wire it into working with one of the others)
Chassis
Turning to the chassis...
The small circuit board can easily be removed via the two small screws on top once the wires have been unsoldered (mine were rather untidy) - and I wanted to replace them with slightly thicker wire as I intend to make my loco dual mode with a DC - DCC switch inside.
Also allowing me to add my stored charge lighting circuit for when on DC use ;-) Keeps the shunting lights on for a long period when stopped.
The plastic support frame that holds the small plug board also acts as a motor retainer and is simply clipped out of the chassis by gently prying with a small blade on each of the lower part of the four legs and the frame lifts away.
Now the motor can be lifted out from the flywheel end and the gearing examined for lubrication etc.
Actually the motor is not securely fitted, simply resting in the chassis casting cradle and secured with the plastic clip surround - this might be why some mechanisms are a bit noisy at higher speeds.
I also noticed a fair bit of sideplay in the main drive axle which may need attention later on, that plus the slop in the crank/connecting rods means a sloppy drive action.
But this is something that one of the machining fiends (like Isambard) will fix in his own inimitable style and we can all wait for a long treatise on how this is done.
Even thought he said in a previous post that he didn't plan to do any modifications - I know he will!!
Note the plastic sticky pad insulator on the base - again mine was not particularly square or ensuring a good insulator against the lower motor feed wire (Grey).
I have sleeved my motor wires separately for additional safety. The insulator is also a partial cushion against vibration but is somewhat poor at that task.
Replacing the pickup and motor connections with thicker wiring allows me to fit the DC/DCC changeover switch and rewire back to the PCB.
Plenty of room to route the wiring neatly alongside the inner frame.
Whilst on the subject of the connection PCB, I decided I did not like the DCC sound chip sitting at an angle and placing stress on the 21MTC connector.
Therefore I have performed the following modification
- Carefully unsolder and remove the two green inductors from the topside of the board.
- Refit on the underside in the same holes.
- The components are no polarity conscious so this is a simple job.
- It will be seen that they now will foul the plastic carrier - so this is a simple task to gently carve/drill away just enough of the plastic frame to allow them to sit clear with the PCB level on top. The carrier strength is slightly reduced, but it is not supporting a lot of weight or force so all will be well.
- This now means the decoder will sit level. ;-))
Re-assembling everything is (in the best traditions of a Haynes manual) a reverse of the above procedure....
So I now have a DCC sound fitted 08 that is dual switchable to DC for use on other friends layouts, and has stored charge lighting for DC use (it lasts a number of minutes and tricks many people into thinking my layout is DCC... not!)
Comment welcome.
I plan to add more later - pictures of all this to follow soon.
Lodekka.
Some interesting innovations there Lodekka. Good luck with it! Ta for your help with the Zimo twin speakers - soldered mine up today and sound is very good with the MX644, particularly when you site the speakers hard agains the radiator etch.
John
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Hi Paul, I was asking about the wire connections at the twin speaker end. Have replied on Beale Street.
Cheers
John
I guess what I'm asking is whether I have to wire the Zimo twin speakers in series or a simple soldering to the cross bar wires joining each speaker as Digitrains kindly ommited to attach speaker wires as requested
Grateful if anyone using the Zimo LS40x20 twin speakers in their 08 can advise on where the wires are soldered at the speaker end.
Thanks
John
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John,
Have a close look at the photos above in post #107 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116976-beale-st/?p=2513613
The solder pads for the speaker wires can be seen on the loco PCB. They are each labelled 'SPK'. You can see these clearly in the 6th and 7th pictures, the latter having red and black speaker wires soldered in place.
It does not matter which speaker wire is soldered to which SPK pad, so long as it is only one to each.
Kind regards,
Hi Paul,
Thanks for that, but I was asking about soldering wires to the Zimo LS twin speakers (the other end so to speak). My twin speaker has arrived from Digitrains without wires, which I had asked them to attach.
I understand where they are to go on the Pcb. The LS Twin speaker has a connecting wire bar joining each terminal. My question was can I just solder some wires to anywhere on the two bars or do the twin speakers have to be wired in any other way?
Cheers
John
Paul
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Apologies Andy P,
The above post requesting info from Paul should have been posted in the Dapol 08 thread. Got engrossed in looking at your installation.
Cheers
John
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Paul,
Digitrains have just sent me their Activedrive on MX644 and the LS40 twin speakers as you recommended. Despite me asking them to wire the speakers (I hate soldering to speakers due to eye/dexterity issues) they have not done so.
Am I right in thinking I can solder some speaker wires to any point on the connecting wire bars ( + & - ) which joins both speakers?
TIA for your help
John
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Hi Paul,
I sent you a PM too. Seems Digitrains are supplying the older file ?. I await purchasing info for for your ProtoDrive please.
Regards
Alan (in Canada)
I have specifically asked Digitrains for their active drive configured for the Dapol 08. Here's hoping that they have done so.....If not I guess I can reconfigure using Paul's useful advice on p32.
John
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What a great little model; real VFM, in my view. Sadly, I didn't read the small print on the decoder and so it looks like a Christmas tree just now; but that can be changed.
[attachment=774025:AEE2774E-EB78-4140-A28B-0B178E5853F9.JPG
Hi,
Are you using a Zimo chip (5 function or more) to get those shunting lights?
John
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D3045 - does anybody know when it was painted into blue livery, or visited works c 1966/67 ?
My own contemporary spotting notes indicate that D3045 was in blue livery at Nine Elms MPD on 22 April 1967, whilst steam was still working on the Southern Region.
Concurs with my understanding. I know a batch of these early blue repaints on the southern had brown (rather than black) underframes. Can't say wether 3045 was so treated.
John
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That second image of 'Manvers' sitting in Tinsley Yard next to a 21t hopper suggests it is running without its con rods (not unknown) or is it withdrawn? Interesting image anyway.Getting back on track, after a bit of research I settled on turning mine into 08141 (before it got the Tinsley painters embellishments in the form of the Manvers name) as I have a few photos of her and I was wondering if any of you know what could have caused such heavy black oil staining? Also on the two doors (one with the name and on at the side of it) what could have caused such a strange circular mark? (I'm pondering how to recreate the mark)
Thanks
John
Loksound V4 L & Heljan o gauge
in DCC Help & Questions
Posted
Norman,
Thanks very much for the advice. Because I hate soldering to decoders I am still curious about using the screw terminal version. I take it from your comments that the XL with the screw terminals is a total replacement for the Heljan PCB and that this has no rsistors for the lights?
Curious to hear your views on the XL.
Cheers
John