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Spodgrim

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Blog Comments posted by Spodgrim

  1. On 08/03/2022 at 14:09, Ian Simpson said:

    Please don't stop, George! The blog exists for everyone to share their thoughts and ideas on early modelling (or just early railways), and I'm sure most of the value comes from the comments. I certainly learn a lot from them.

    That is a very nice model! I don't know any way to add fluted sides to an existing tender, although very thin plasticard glued onto the tender top at an angle might work for anyone with an infinite supply of dexterity, patience and stoicism. Does anyone have any suggestions?

    I've wondered in the past about cladding the whole side in thin plasticard which can the heated and moulded into a flute. Problems are 1) your tender has just got wider. 2) you'll have to lose any rivets on the tender side. 3) The fluting rises from the outside edge of the top not from the whole of the top.

     

    • Informative/Useful 1
  2. 5 hours ago, Ian Simpson said:

    Marvelleous work, Chris! Wondering if I can get away with them in 3.5 mm (edit: assuming you're going to sell them), as these coaches were so narrow.

    Let's hope the new Rapido Lion release inspires modellers to explore the potential of early railways like the L&B.

    Ian, I tried buying you a 7mm coach from Parliamentary Trains for Christmas (just, because...) but it didn't work out unfortunately. If Chris can do them as kits I'll buy you a couple. And if you live long enough I might even build them for your birthday :-)

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  3. 20 minutes ago, Ian Simpson said:

    LBSC black ironwork is a pain. I think it disappeared around 1911, when the "LBSCR" lettering was changed to "LBSC" and ironwork started to be painted the same colour as the rest of the body.

    Nice construction and lettering, by the way, and the weathering has worked a treat.

    So did I get it wrong on the LBSC van? That would have saved me time and angst

    • Agree 1
  4. Thanks Collett, I was aware I needed to remove the w iron on the kit before getting a proper fit, but I was thinking there still wouldn't be room (of course I forgot I would remove the other W iron on the other solebar as well)... What can I say, It was late! 

     

    I'll give it another bash at the weekend, in between finally being allowed to collect my daughter's stuff from her University hall of residence where it's been sitting since mid March.

     

    Interestingly, I've just run a caliper gauge over the one I've made up and it's more like 24.9/5.00 so I think I need to be more careful making them up. Perhaps that's part of my problem. 

     

    Update 11/06/2020 21:56 - I've (gently) bent the  bottom fold in with small pliers and they're now more like 24.7mm. Thanks for giving the measurement Collett, I wouldn't have thought of that otherwise.

    • Like 1
  5. Thanks John

     

    The Kadees are an experiment. I want delayed uncoupling, but having just bought the loco I can't bring myself to cut the NEM pockets off to fit something like Sprat & Winkle, I bought some No 18s for the loco and I'm trying them out.  I'm interested in how you use the bamboo skewer to uncouple

     

    Ian Simpson - You're going to have to add Bamboo skewers to the coffee stirrers and Lottery cards in your modelling box :-)

    • Agree 1
  6. Thanks Ian

     

    There will now be a slight delay as I realised I can only find one axle steel and I need at least two to set up the frames and three to set up the drive train. I'll have to order some more from the Association shop, but I'm wondering if while I'm at it I order the parts for a replacement chassis for my Dapol M7 that never ran slow enough under DC (although I'm rather put off by the 0-4-4 setup).

     

    Anyway won't get anything done today as it's Easter Monday and we have to visit the relatives.

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